Chevrolet Cavalier Coolant System Issues
xcrossroadsx
Member Posts: 5
2000 Cavalier 2.0 Liter . Started loosing coolant. Pressure tesed no leaks. Found system pushing coolant out of overflow hose like a garden hose. Replaced thermostat, same problem. Fan runs @ 190 OK. I can only think there is a restricition in the system causing the backup. Before replacing hoses (upper and lower over $100 and special order wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem.
See also: How To Maintain Your Vehicle's Cooling System
See also: How To Maintain Your Vehicle's Cooling System
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Ever since then, my engine has been running hotter than before, and at 105,000 miles, I had a tuneup and requested the coolant strength tested. After I did that, the engine now runs even hotter without the fan turning on. I decided to let the engine idle for awhile to see when the fan kicks in and it starts at about 215 degrees, runs for 10 seconds and the temperature falls to around 205-210 and doesn't take long to go back to 215.
It makes me nervous with any car, where the temperature raises above the half-way mark on the dial. I called where I had it serviced in the first place, and then I contacted the Chevy Dealer. Both places ask "Is it in the red zone? Does the fan turn on? Does the engine start to cool?" and as long as I say the engine is not in the red zone, they're like "Don't worry about it, then." It doesn't help that the "red zone" is about 260 and the max temp on the gauge is 265. And when I try to say "Well, the temperature didn't used to get that hot" and I have to answer that the fan kicks in and cools the engine back to 210, I get treated like an idiot again.
All I know is that for 5 years, my car has been running around 180-190 with the fan not letting it get above 195 and I want it to run the same as before. How do I get the dealership to do anything for me, or how can I fix the problem myself?
If you are having to add a half gallon of coolant after a trip then you have a leak. A pressure test can help determine where the leak is coming from. The most common places for a leak is around the head gasket and around the water pump or through the water pump seep hole. Also, another suggestion would be to check your oil. If it looks milky, you have an internal coolant leak. If you have an internal coolant leak, get it fixed ASAP before serious engine damage occurs. Also, white smoke & a sweet smell are a good indication you have a coolant leak. On another note, your mechanic is wrong. Your thermostat is not causing the coolant loss. :shades:
From: 2carpros.com forum...
"Always bleed air from cooling system after replacing coolant. Set heater for maximum heat. Remove radiator cap. Loosen drain plug and remove drain bolt (if equipped) from engine block. Drain coolant reservoir. Fill coolant reservoir to MAX mark with 50/50 water-coolant mixture. Loosen bleed bolt and fill radiator up to base of filler neck. Close bleed bolt when coolant flows out without bubbles. Tighten bleed bolt. With radiator cap removed, start and operate engine to normal operating temperature. Add coolant if necessary and check for leaks "
Mine runs continuously, even from a cold start.
now for the problem- it seems to over heat- just replaced thermostat- still is staying up in the high zone. does it need to be flushed? mechanic said low compression- does it need and oil change? car is great- don't want to leave him stranded- help??
uniconr2010
Thanks
if you get underneath of it and look up on right side motor underneath is Water Pump and Left side of the Engine from looking underneath is the thermostat.
2-have someone being using straight water causing massive rusting? If so then the tiny holes in the head gasket is plugging up with rust crust causing choking of coolant flowing upward thru the head gasket as the water pump is pushing the water into the lower block first. Hot coolant runs out the pipe on the left side by the serpentine belts that flows into heater core and back into the thermostat housing and back into the engine and as the temp start to get 180 degree then the thermostat opens up allowing COOL coolant to flow into water pump into the block.
NOTE: THE COOLANT FLOWS FULL TIME THRU THE HEATER CORES AT ALL TIME, THERE IS NO WAY TO CUT OFF COOLANT FLOWING THRU HEATER CORE.
3-replaced the thermostat which the lower radiator hose runs into an inlet? THERE ARE NO THERMOSTAT ANYWHERE NEAR THE HEAD OR OUTLET HOSES.
4-try flushing out the system by disconnecting the heater hose that runs into the thermostat housing and use jet water hose and flush it out BOTH ways to get gunk out the heater core as well, you can also do that while the engine is running with parking brakes on, wheel chock and don't anyone in the front seat while flushing. Keep flushing BOTH WAYS till you will see clear water and then rehook it up and use DEXCOOL coolant GM recommendation. 50/50