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Chevrolet Venture Heating / Cooling

demonfatcatdemonfatcat Member Posts: 3
I have a problem with my rear A/C in my Venture. I have owned this vehicle for over 4 years and basically we love it. I have read all of the issues on this board and I guess I consider myself lucky. I am wondering if there is a second set of connections for the A/C in the rear somewhere. I have no cool air coming from the rear vents unless It is really early in the day. I am in the Phoenix area and A/C is a necessity. Is there a second compressor or possibly a secondary place to check refrigerant pressures? I have already done the check under the hood and pressures are good! Please, any information that would help me out here would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!!!
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    melissa_lynnmelissa_lynn Member Posts: 3
    Our heating system works in the front but not in the back. Thats were we have the kids and really need to fix it before winter hits! It does not blow heat at all. Has anyone had this problem?
    Help please!
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    modrace18modrace18 Member Posts: 3
    1997 Venture van, extended. 105,000 miles. My heater fan switch suddenly stopped working on 1 thru 4. It only works on "high", position 5. Any comments? Just the switch? Resistors? How hard to replace it?
    Thanks

    Also, I've had so many of the problems everyone else has had. Caliper bolts falling out, over heating and having the head gaskets replaced. (water in the cylinder) I've had window switch failures, lost brakes and fluid when brake lines rusted out prematurely.
    Windshield wiper "home" or down position issues. Sometimes they stop in the up position when turned off. I've replaced the front pads and rotors several times, while the rear drum brakes don't seem to wear at all. I've done all the repairs myself except the head gaskets.
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    If you've done the repairs you've mentioned yourself, this one will be a breeze.

    The switch is most likely OK. You may want to check it before replacing this blower motor resistor but I'd bet $ 1.00 that your resistor is the problem.

    Its located in the passenger side footwell behind the blower and mounted to the firewall. Remove the blower motor and you'll see it. Its got the footprint of a credit card and is less than 1" tall with a bunch of wires attached to it. If you follow the power wires from the blower it will lead you right to it. Before you remove it, make sure the connections are tight and try it one more time. If that does nothing - Take out the 2 small bolts holding it in and replace. Part is around $ 20.00. You'll need to be pretty flexible to get to it but other than that its easy to replace. Its a common problem on the Venture.

    Make sure you check your fuses 1st though. I think the # 5 speed has its own fuse so if you've got a bad fuse for the other speeds it will still work in # 5. I'm still betting that the resistor is the problem though.

    Also, the fail to park on the wipers is typically the wiper motor going bad. Another common Venture problem. Its not really too hard to replace either. I'd post the procedure but its got too many steps to type. Get a haynes or chilton manual, its in there with pics...the haynes manual even has a diagnostic step by step procedure to do it.

    Good Luck...

    John
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    paulanycpaulanyc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Chevy Venture, and recently, I noticed that when I turn on the AC or heating, the air blows out of all the vents at once (the ones by the feet, the vents on the dashboard, and the ones by the windshield). Turning the nob that's supposed to control this does nothing. It used to work fine. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem is or how to fix it?

    Thanks!
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    One of 2 likely problems - both easy to fix...

    1. The vacuum hose that provides vacuum to the switch has become disconnected. look behind the vent position control knob and locate the vacuum hose that is attached to it. Is it not attached? if its ok there, open the hood. the other end of the hose attaches a vacuum port on top of the engine, just above the accessory belt. You'll see it, it attaches there, jumps across and wraps around the washer reservoir before heading to the firewall. it may have fallen off or it may be broken, kinked or split. If you're still OK, go back in the car and disconnect the vac supply hose and then start the car. You should hear/feel the vacuum in the hose. No vacuum???The hose is plugged - run a new one through the firewall and attach it to the port on the engine. Our 2000 Venture had a plugged hose...

    2. The switch is shot. Basically, if you've got vacuum the switch should work - very rare that the control switch is dead.
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    modrace18modrace18 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your quick response! I was waiting to take a look at it before I responded. All the fuses and connections seem ok, so for $20 or so I'll assume it's the resistor. I'll pick one up before I go thru the trouble Of removing it and the heater motor. Thanks again....Jim I'll let you know how it works out.
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    hotfoot1hotfoot1 Member Posts: 1
    My problem is with my '04 Venture van since it was new. When I set the temperature control anywhere in the cool zone, and vent control to any setting which includes the floor vents, I get cool air coming out of the upper vents and hot air coming out of the floor vents. On long trips I get a hot foot as the floor vents blow right onto my right foot. I have to use the cruise control to get some relief and/or take off my shoe. The sides of the centre console also get quite warm. Needless to say, the A/C works against itself and I have to set it to max to get normal temp.

    After years of complaining, my dealer finally admitted there is a problem. They've taken it in recently and after taking the centre console apart and replacing the actuator(?) control (from another van as they weren't sure this would solve the problem) the problem persists. The dealer mechanic said they got in touch with GM engineers and they said they had no idea what the problem was, but to let them know when the dealer found the cause of the problem.

    I'm taking it in tomorrow again for as second try. I figure they'll be taking it apart again and look some more. They might or they might not find the problem. I have a 1,500 mile trip coming up this weekend (to Fla.) and I sure would be thrilled to get my climate control finally working normally. (So would my wife).
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    rman666rman666 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same exact problem. I'll try the repair suggested and see if it works.

    I also have a problem in that the unlock switch on the arm rest does not work. I have to manually lean over and unlock the door (to let someone in, for example).

    Any ideas?
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    Does the switch on the other door work or are all switches dead?

    Or is it just that the passenger door doesn't unlock?
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    skpickyskpicky Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with the unlock switch. I have a 2002 Chevy Venture that I bought new. The drivers side unlock switch stopped working a few months ago (the "lock" function still works, but the "unlock" doesn't do anything). Now the passenger door switch is doing the same thing.
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    Sounds like a switch issue - interesting that its happening on both sides - First things first, you need to confirm the operation of one of the switches (you'll need a multimeter to check it out - you can get a decent autoranging one under $ 50, it will pay for itself with your first repair: This is how you test the switch for proper operation:

    Pop out the switch panel from the armrest on the door with a small screwdriver. You then want to disconnect the plug from the switch. When you disconnect it, you'll check for continuity in the switch - you're basically checking to see of the switch is working. After you unplug the switch - look into it with the square hole for the connector to the left and the contacts to the right. Touch the multimeter to the contact on the bottom right and to the one in the top middle. Depress the button to "lock" the multimeter should indicate continuity as the connection is made - repeat the process with "unlock' while touching the top left with the top center. There should be continuity between these if the switch is working correctly. If either fails the test, the switch needs to be replaced. I'm guessing that you'll wind up replacing both switches since neither are working for unlock. Post back and let me know how you did...if your switches pass the test then we can go further. As always...be sure to check for loose or corroded connections and make sure the fuses are OK. Good luck - let me know how you make out...
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    gmz1gmz1 Member Posts: 6
    Dealer changed blower motor resistor then informed me it was it might be control head ($600 part). Are they talking about actual fan control sw? Any advice to check control head.
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    I believe they're talking about the actual fan switch - you can't replace just the switch you have to replace the whole dash part including the temp control, etc.

    The way to check the operation of the switch is to disconnect the plug from the switch to the blower resistor at the resistor and then use a test light or multimeter to see that the switch is sending 12V to the resistor in each of the respective fan speed positions. Personally, if I needed to replace the control head I'd get one at a junkyard, while I don't think they're trying to rip you off, $ 600.00 is pretty steep. Its an easy install for the DIYer...

    I can post later to let you know which pins to test with each speed as I don't have the diagram with me. In the mean time - make sure that the plug going to the resistor is completely inserted - had trouble when I replaced mine and it turned out that the plug had not fully seated. The resistor is located on the pass side firewall right behind the blower - its got the footprint of a credit card. Will post the pin details later
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    ddecker5ddecker5 Member Posts: 20
    This is not a constant problem, but when the AC is on the rear vents will put out heat. This is an 02 Venture. I've read that there's a "flap" that's not working correctly. Has anyone else seen this, and can I fix it myself?

    Thanks
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    OK here goes -

    pull the connector from the blower motor resistor - as you're looking at the plug with the"slots " which clip the wire to the resistor at the top...

    The connector looks something like this as you look at it:
    ________________________________
    _____!____!___!______________!____!____!______
    !__________________________________________!
    !_____!____!______!_____!_______!_____!_______!
    !__G__!_F_!___E__!__D__!___C___!__B_!___A__!
    !_____!____!______!_____!_______!___ _!_______!!

    I filled in the letters for clarity - making this diagram was a pain!!! :)

    E is the ground - touch one probe to it from your test light or multimeter to it for each test and follow this order - each terminal corresponds to a blower setting. You should get about 12 volts for each test (ignition on - engine not running) The blower resistor then steps down the voltage to get the blower to spin at the appropriate speed.

    A+ E = SPEED SETTING #2
    B+E= SPEED #1
    C+E= SPEED #4
    D+E= SPEED # 3
    F+E = SPEED # 5 (HIGH)
    G IS HOT AT ALLTIMES YOU SHOULD ALWAYS GET 12 v HERE

    If you don't get 12v at each when you change the switch to the corresponding setting and test then the switch is most likely the problem (assuming that the connector at the back of the switch is attached securely and that the wires are in good condition) If all get 12 volts when you switch to them then the blower resistor is most likely NG.

    This gives you enough info to test it - let me know how you make out...
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    Hello,

    I've not had this problem before but here's some thoughts:

    To access the "flap" that you mention - remove the rear left quarter trim panel - behind it is the blower and the mode actuator (controls the "flap"). The actuator is vacuum powered. There's really only a couple of things that could go wrong back there...

    First I'd check to see that it is getting vacuum - start the engine and remove the hoses from the actuator (its the round thing about the size of a fuel filter with 2 hoses attached. With the engine running you should be getting vacuum to at least one if not both if them. I'd be willing to bet that you're not getting vacuum. If you are getting vacuum, check the actuator and the stuff its attached to for smooth movement, maybe its hung up on something or perhaps the actuator is shot.

    If you're not getting vacuum, see if you can hear vacuum with the engine running - these vac hoses get brittle and break from time to time. If everything you can see looks good, after that its tough to find the problem. You'll have to do some Dick Tracy work to figure out where the hose is routed and where it gets its vacuum supply because I'm not sure. Check under the hood for a vacuum leak or a vac hose that is broken or has fallen off. The other possibility is that the vac hose is plugged - I had one of them once in the front.

    Its something you can fix yourself if you're patient in trying to figure out where the leak/blockage is - Just for reference - the vac hose at the actuator goes to the overhead console control which in turn gets its supply from a vac header somewhere under the hood - I'm just not sure where.

    Good luck - post back with your hopeful success.... :)
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    sh00trsh00tr Member Posts: 4
    I have had the same problem since I bought my 99 Venture used 3 years ago. However, now I have a problem in that my blower motor stays on even when the ignition is turned off. Did the resistor replacement fix it?
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    sh00trsh00tr Member Posts: 4
    I had some of these problems with my 1999 Venture (extended). Power locks didn't work with armrest controls on either side, and passenger window stopped working from driver's side armrest control. I solved it.

    The wiring harness goes under the carpet under the passenger side door area. This seems to be a place where salty water from winter roads collects and drains out from under the carpet. In my van, the wiring harness is not protected from the salt water, which got into the splices and rotted them out. The harness seems to lie right in this channel. I replaced all the splices and I got my power locks and windows back. I re-sealed the splices and wrapped them with cable coax di-electric to ensure get the wire harness up out of the drain channel.
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    sh00trsh00tr Member Posts: 4
    OK. I can confirm that replacing the blower resistor gave back my variable fan speed. Before I had low, and high. Now I have off, 1,2,3,4 and full. On inspection, it seems that somehow water is getting down in there, causing corrosion evidently causing the resistors for 2,3,4 to fail open circuit.

    This is a real beeeyotch to replace. You need to take out the blower motor first. The rear screws are almost unreachable. Best to just back them off a couple of turns and then pull the old one out. Then you can slide the new one back in.

    I lived with this for about 2 years until yesterday, when the battery died because the fan was stuck in the full position.

    I tried replacing the heater control like this one
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=360028990803
    but it didn't do any good.

    I think the water might be coming in from around the top of the windshield, as I notice there is a bit of water now in the dome light somehow, and the rubber around the window isn't as tight as it might have been one time.

    Hope that helps...
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    Hi sh00tr....

    Lets think about this one for a minute - if I think out loud and type maybe we can figure it out together - it might look like random thoughts and that is precisely what it is...(and yes...the resistor is a pain to replace, my back still isn't the same from last summer when I did mine)

    So you replaced the resistor and now all 5 speeds work...but you can't turn the fan off? Am i reading this correctly? Or you replaced the resistor because you couldn't turn it off and now you have all 5 speeds and you're trying to figure out how to not have this happen again?

    I'm not completely convinced that water that you think is coming from the windshield was the cause of the demise of the resistor - these resistors are known to fail even in the best of conditions, it wasn't a smart idea to mount it right near the fan on their part...not that its not possible that its water of course. There is one pin that's always got 12 volts on it no matter where the switch is set - it powers the blower relay. If the relay is stuck closed - you'll have nothing but high speed at all times - even with engine off if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly...Is the carpet wet on the pass side? I know you've seen water in the dome light, you said that...

    Did you confirm that the blower switch is working correctly with a multimeter? I'm wondering what is going on when you turn the switch to off - a multimeter can tell us what's going on...A couple of posts previous there's a really poor diagram that I created to tell how to test the switch & resistor. Its a small circuit so finding the faulty component should be pretty easy...

    I know I'm shotgunning the problem at this point- post back and let me know where you're at right now and we'll figure it out...just typed in some random thoughts to get the thinking process started...I'm only a mechanic when there's a shade tree and some beer around but I know that you and I are smarter than our Ventures - I'll be happy to walk you through diagnosing and fixing the problem...I'll look for your reply...
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    sh00trsh00tr Member Posts: 4
    Hey 442dude. Sorry if my post wasn't clear. I'm confirming that replacing the resistor block solved two problems for me.

    1) High and off only; positions 2,3,4 were all "off" 5 was 5 ...I had that for about 2 years...,

    2) More seriously, it started shorting to on/High only regardless of the position of the console switch, and regardless of ignition on or off or set to accessory.

    This progression was very problematic as the only way to avoid killing the battery was to disconnect it! Not ideal as it's been -20C (-28F) the last couple of days.

    I confirmed the blower switch was working by testing continuity for all 5 positions.They were all good. I also have two spare ones here if anyone wants one cheap (one for a 99 the other for a 2000...)

    The factory resistor showed signs of either burn off or corrosion. The green coating had flecked off in a strange sort of way; I think it was water damage.

    http://fhlsim.com/images/7692.JPG

    http://fhlsim.com/images/7693.JPG
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    Hey sh00tr...

    So you're fixed then...excellent...

    These are a really common failure...mine looked scorched when I replaced it...looked a lot like yours - its the peril of mounting the part so closed to the blower where all sorts of dust & what have you is kicking around (moisture, heat, etc)

    Looking at the wiring diagram and your pictures tells me a couple of things

    -there is 12v power to the blower resistor at all times, ignition on or off

    -the #5 position is wired directly to the blower relay, so when you choose # 5, its basically a straight shot of juice right to the blower motor ... if that relay fails closed ( like yours) that would explain only full blast, (the relay is on the resistor part) No matter what you set the switch at, if the relay fails closed, you're getting full blast all the time...

    Mine looked very much like yours, although yours does look a little worse...I don't think its a water issue although you still may want to hunt down the source of the leak...

    Post any time...I'm always cruising around here & willing to help :shades:
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    modrace18modrace18 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks John, it was the relay. I'd like to shoot the designer who put the screws where they are. Pretty miserable to get at the screws for such an easy task.
    thanks Jim
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    No problem...I'm glad to be able to help...if they tried to pick a horrible place to put that thing I'm not sure they could make it any worse...

    Best,
    John :shades:
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    jthambrightjthambright Member Posts: 1
    My heat started acting up last winter. I would start the car and start the defrost in the morning. When I came back out a long period later, the cabin would still be cold and no defrosting occurred. When I drove the car to work the heat began to warm up and get to a comfortable level. I also started to notice the temperature guage rising above normal when I went on long trips (over an hour). Before it got too cold I flushed the radiator to see if this was the problem, but did not fix it. Summer has come and now the A/C does not work. Attempted to recharge the A/C since it had been 4+ years since we bought the vehicle. This did not work. I get warm air from the vents. When I turn on the A/C I get a noise that I assume is the compressor kicking on, so it appears that it is working. I have not taken a PSI check on the system yet though, but if the pressure is NOT correct I assumed the compressor would not come on?!?! Since they are faults that occur seasons apart, I did not make the connection until now. Is it possible they are related problems... Would a vacuum hose leak or disconnect cause both of these probblems? If so, where is it and how do I T/S it. If not... What are some recommendations for T/S or rectifying these problems?

    Thanks in advance for any assistance.
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    cabbbaileycabbbailey Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2002 Venture LS that has developed a problem where condensation somehow leaks into the cabin onto the driver's floorboard. After I've been driving with the AC on for a while and then I get out of the car, when I come back the carpet on the driver's side is wet and the ground directly under the driver's side is wet also. Can someone tell me what is going on here?
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    There is a drain for the AC that is either disconnected or plugged. Chances are there a bunch of glop in there which plugged it up. Clean it out and make sure the drain hose that goes through the firewall is clear and your problem should go away.
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    cabbbaileycabbbailey Member Posts: 12
    I took it to my mechanic last week. He hooked a long nozzle to his air hose and then stuck that in the drain tube underneath and blew it out. It drained outside for a couple days and the inside carpet started to dry up. Then evidently it stopped up again because now it's draining back into the floorboard again. Does it need to be blown out from underneath, or should it be drained from the inside? How can I get to the drain from the inside? Is it behind the center console? How does that disassemble?
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    motorhead57105motorhead57105 Member Posts: 8
    I have a silhouette, but same difference. I justa had an episode where the front wasnt cooling but the rear was, and I hooked up guages and it read normal. So i took it in to the shop and it was a pound and a half low of refrigerant, somehow since it holds more refrigerant the guages read normal readings. I know there is only one compressor, and only one place to hook guages. The only way to really know if the refrigerant is low, is to reclaim it with a machine that weighs it.
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    chaseschases Member Posts: 41
    Blowing it from the bottom to the inside just unplugs the hose, but the junk plugging it up is still in the unit. At this point, if you want it fixed for good you need to consider taking apart the inside to get to the coils and then clean it out.

    Preventitive maintenance, like frequently blowing out your inside air filters, could have prevented this. This is commonly overlooked. When I purchased my van at 70,000 miles and checked those filters, they were plugged and had 6" of pine needles stacked on top of them.
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    correct...now you have to take apart the air box as there's probably a bunch of stuff stopping it up...auto zone has a pretty good repair manual for the venture on line, you can check there to see how to take the whole thing apart to get to it. Look in the section under heating & cooling & look at the instructions for the heater core. If you can get to the heater core, you can get to all of the goop that's plugging up your drain...
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    ElvisBelushiElvisBelushi Member Posts: 2
    My 97 Venture has 3 control knobs for A/C & heat - fan, temp, & directional. One of the knobs is broken, and one is not long for this world - I have repaired both of them once with a plastic tie-wrap. I thought my fix was fairly ingenious - they both held for a year or two. One is now beyond "rigging" at this point, and I can't find those little jewels online. Or - I just haven't found the correct search terms. I see a reference to an online repair manual at auto zone above. I shall try that next.

    If someone could point me in the right direction to find replacement knobs, we have to drive this van til the wheels fall off. And wifey is getting a bit testy about having to pull one knob off and put it on the other post just to change the airflow.
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    I'm thinking the dealer should be able to get them for you. Chances are there were 37 GM models that used the same knobs.

    Junkyard might also be a good place if you've got one local. Once again, it might not have to be from a Venture, I'm sure the Impala or Century or Alero or something used the same knobs.
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    ElvisBelushiElvisBelushi Member Posts: 2
    Was trying to avoid the local dealer - don't care to send my business his way. Was also trying to avoid junked vehicles, because these knobs die, in my opinion, from plastic fatigue.

    Was really wanting click click, punch in card number, and ~poof~ on my doorstep in a week or so.

    Was ALSO hoping that since so many dang vehicles probably use this knob, I'd find a part number and 3rd-party supplier.
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    cach22cach22 Member Posts: 12
    I too had the problem with the blower. The difference was that settings 1 and 2 did not work. The others did. John, on your very informative direction, I tested the settings and found out that the switch was good. I have had this problem for perhaps two years now and I was totally dreading pulling the console apart to replace a switch. It turns out that would have been fruitless as I would have had to replace seemingly half the console. Anyways I pulled out the resistor and though I did not take pictures, it looked far worse than those in the other post. At least a 1/4 of the green coating had flaked off on both sides. There were a couple of scorch marks on the circuit board where the coating had flaked off. The new resistor had a much more substantial protective coating on it than the last one. I just wanted to thank you for you helpful and selfless information without which I would have been having to pay substantially more to have this fixed. I know this is over a year after you posted the previous entries on this.

    Just one other note. I did inspect the blower housing. The metal between the blower cage and the motor had some light rust and corrosion on it. I am fairly certain that the cause of all this is the too lightly protected resistor coming in contact with moisture for a period of time. Hopefully, this new card has no problems as it is much more substantially protected. Thanks again, John.
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    cach22cach22 Member Posts: 12
    My A/C is not cooling in the front or rear. While it is definitely not hot at this time, I was hoping to try and fix it before it did get hot. It quit working late last summer. I was wondering what the easiest way was to tell how the compressor is even getting any power at all. I do not hear the customary "clink" of the compressor kicking in nor hear the accompanying extra strain on the engine. I have checked all the fuses and they were good. Thanks in advance.
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    Hi cach22,

    I'm so glad I could help - you're very welcome!

    I haven't had any problems since and you're right, the new one did look much better designed than the one it replaced. Here's to hoping that neither one of us have to contort ourselves again to reach and replace that thing...

    All the best,

    John :shades:
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    Hi again...

    There's a low pressure switch on the system that monitors the pressure of your refrigerant - when it indicates that the refrigerant is below a certain pressure, it disables the compressor. I'd bet that you might have a refrigerant leak and your system needs to be checked and recharged. There is also a low temperature shutoff programmed in the system which keeps it from turning on when the outside temp is below 32F but since you started having trouble last summer I'm thinking that's not why its not turning on.

    If you're not hearing the "clink" of the compressor clutch, chances are its not getting any power. A mechanic can hook up a scanner and see if the computer is commanding the compressor to turn on or if its inhibiting it for some reason. He'll also check the system pressure to see if that's the reason.

    Alternately - you could check in the compressor area to so if by chance that the electrical connection has come loose or off - its not likely but it does happen. But I'm guessing that your system is low on refrigerant due to a leak.

    Good Luck,
    John :shades:
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    cach22cach22 Member Posts: 12
    Well, I added 25 Oz of R134A and the A/C started working. I could hear the compressor clutch engage and the added load on the engine. However, two vents, one on either side of the driver, still blow warm air. This happens despite the fact all other vents are blowing cold air. Any ideas?
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    cach22cach22 Member Posts: 12
    I am double posting this because I did not do it as a reply the first time.

    Well, I added 25 Oz of R134A and the A/C started working. I could hear the compressor clutch engage and the added load on the engine. However, two vents, one on either side of the driver, still blow warm air. This happens despite the fact all other vents are blowing cold air. Any ideas?
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    442dude442dude Member Posts: 373
    Warm on one side and cool on the other???

    I'm no AC expert by any stretch...I even checked and couldn't find a technical service bulletin from GM in the factory service manual about that problem.

    I'm pretty sure that the center vents are all fed by one duct so all 3 of them should be either warm or cold...

    Check your ducts & make sure they're where they belong, maybe you knocked one loose/off when you were replacing the blower resistor. Also, there's a vacuum line that runs right near the blower and out through the firewall to under the hood - trace it back to the controls and make sure its not pinched or damaged, then start the car and make sure you're getting good vacuum through it - I had to replace mine because it got clogged - I'm pretty sure the actuator door is vacuum operated on the Venture.

    Also, check the temps of the different ducts with a thermometer to make sure your hand isn't playing tricks on you - that's why I'm thinking that a duct fell off under the dash as your hand will perceive a cooler temperature when there is more air moving over it. Also, check the temp in your defroster duct.

    I wish I could be more help - I really don't know too much about AC systems...at this point I think I've shared most of what I know with you...

    Best of luck,
    John :shades:
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try the Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars discussion - some of these problems happen to lots of different makes. You have maybe 6 weeks to get it figured out before the weather gets hot. :)

    Steve, visiting host
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    debby4debby4 Member Posts: 1
    no heat or a/c first, then temp. gauge went up and down erraticly, then went to hot and stayed there, engine started chugging and wanted to die, would not go over 15 mph. fluids and thermostat good, new water pump and temp. sensor
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    1963impala1963impala Member Posts: 1
    i am having the exact same problem, it blows super cold on the passenger side vents and blows out warm on the driver side vents. i have checked all the vacuum lines and nothing. i even took out the filters and it did help with airflow but that was it.
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    cach22cach22 Member Posts: 12
    My A/C problems now appear to be fixed. I had to take my Venture in for a transmission flush. Some of the shifting it was doing was pretty jerky. Since I had it in the shop, I asked them to check my A/C system for leaks. They did not listen very well. When they were done, they had simply added another 2 lbs of refrigerant and some dye. They said if it leaked now that they would be able to identify where. Jeez, no kidding. I asked to check for leaks and they ad refrigerant.
    Anyway, that A/C is darn near cold enough now to make ice cubes. When I had last added refrigerant myself, my cheapo gauge said the pressure was a little high. Then when the A/C seemed to quit working the next day, the gauge said the pressure was too low. Of course I thought I had a leak in the system then.
    Well, after having the shop add another 2 lbs of refrigerant and everything still working great as of today, I now feel it was simply a matter of a cheap gauge AND the A/C system needing to be evacuated and then recharged. If you are getting the same hot/cold symptoms I was, I'd bet that you need the same thing - evacuation and recharge. It is not the cheapest thing, but the A/C is working great now.

    Does anybody know of a cost effective way a person can evacuate their A/C system and then recharging it yourself?
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    fleastifffleastiff Member Posts: 52
    I have a 2000 Chevy Venture. At first I was rather well impressed by the air conditioning system. It worked and it seems to have worked quite well. In Florida, this is a much appreciated feature!
    After a while the AC seemed to get weak. One mechani re-charged it. Yet its never really worked anywhere near as well as it did before. Its set on taking outside air and cooling it. Would recirculating the air make more sense?
    Its not that cool air is not coming out of the vents. It is. But its cool air rather than cold air. And it seems to be less strong a breeze even if I have the fan set at 5, its highest position.
    What items should I check to see why I'm getting only cool rather than cold air being blown out of the vents.
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    matlison5matlison5 Member Posts: 1
    Did u ever get any answers as to why your a/c wasn't working well - mine doesn't get as cold - and it doesn't blow as hard - i'm about to have some freon put in it, but i've also noticed water in my front 2 floor-boards (soaked thru carpet) in conjunction with running the the a/c for long periods of time - which is unavoidable in the SE during the summer....
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    phildunnphildunn Member Posts: 1
    Your floor boards are wet due to a pinched drain hose. More times than not you need to replace the hose. It is a flimsy hose that kinks easily. I have had this problem several times and it goes away when the hose is unlinked/replpaced. Good Luck.
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    johno99johno99 Member Posts: 8
    2002 chevy venture AC drain water LEAKS into passenger feet area under carpeting.
    How did you solve it. i blew backwards with a tight blower nozzle connection into the Ac drain (short little tube that drained behind the engine just below the alternator. no water came out and the van was sitting on a level garage floor.

    Did anyone solve the problem without taking the entire a/c plenum apart and clean out muck ?
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    johno99johno99 Member Posts: 8
    I can't imagine there is a pinched hose or where it might be, I blew air into the drain hose coming out of the a/c box behind the engien jsut below the alternator. what di you find and how did you fix it ?
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