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Chrysler Concorde Electrical Issues
Need help soon!!!! I am having an eletrical problem or a very pissed off ghost has decided to haunt my car and I need to figure it out one way or another. Does anyone know what could be the problem with my 2000 Concorde LXI?
It started with the lights inside the car blinking on and off, next it went to the dash lights blinking on and off (i.e. the air bag, oil lights, etc...) after that my stereo would switch from the CD player to the radio in mid-song, and later my air conditioner would come on, even though the compressor is broken. I have taken it to two electrical mechanics and neither has identified the problem.
I have spent a small fortune on this car already (i.e. fixing the rear windows that still wont come down, fixing the rear brake lights that would not go off and several other general maintenance repairs) and I just would like to know what the problem is (short of selling the car and buying a new one that I cannot afford), so that I can have it repaired once and for all.
It started with the lights inside the car blinking on and off, next it went to the dash lights blinking on and off (i.e. the air bag, oil lights, etc...) after that my stereo would switch from the CD player to the radio in mid-song, and later my air conditioner would come on, even though the compressor is broken. I have taken it to two electrical mechanics and neither has identified the problem.
I have spent a small fortune on this car already (i.e. fixing the rear windows that still wont come down, fixing the rear brake lights that would not go off and several other general maintenance repairs) and I just would like to know what the problem is (short of selling the car and buying a new one that I cannot afford), so that I can have it repaired once and for all.
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Comments
You may want to check the recalls for the car, my 1997 Concorde had a recall for leaky fuel rails... I went to check the oil one day and I had gas all over the inside of the engine... If I hadn't found it there would have been a huge fire.
This might have been what happened to you.
Also, it wound up having to have a new motor put into it & luckily I had purchased an extended warranty so it was covered. I now have a 1998 chrysler concorde lxi that has 56,000 miles & the body is in showroom condition & it too needs a new motor. (of course the warranty expired @ 50K miles)I was told by the service tech that a new motor costs $5K which is more than the car is worth since it is 9 years old. Chrysler was no help when I contacted them. I googled chryser complaints & there were several web sites with customer complaints with the same problems on concordes & 300C's, some still new & under warranty & chrysler also refused to honor those warranties saying it was the customers fault. Go to www.mychryslersucks.com as it is the one with the most complaints. I know I will never own another chrysler!!
Thanks for letting me vent
one thing it could possibly be is that the resevoir for the brake fluid isnt all the way filled up...but when i take the cap off it still has some in it. would i need to fill it up to the max line possibly?
also does the same thing with my brights near the speedometer...ever since i changed the bulb the light stays on all the time (which i did that maybe 3-4 months ago)
so ya basically my question is that ive tried wd40 and that didnt work..not even the right size socket or regular wrench could do the trick, so what should i do if i didnt want to take it to the shop to have them do it? (keep in mind that im limited on tools, so if i need to get someone with a compressor socket, lemme know)
thanks
To make the story not too long - right now the overhead console temperature display behaves not very well. Most of the time it takes about 10 min. of driving before it "catches up" to the outside temperature. But some time it's even more weird - today in the underground garage it was showing 17 C, almost immediately after leaving garage jumped to 20 C though I felt that it still was NOT right (it felt more like around 25 C). Than after about another 10 min. of driving it jumped to 24 C (which is about right). The Automatic Temperature Control was OFF all the time.
I have observed this strange behavior for about 6 past months. What worries me most is that ATS sensor also probably "talks" to the main computer (via Body Control Module, BCM) that controls A/C and once A/C gets turned on the things may really get out of hand.
Any clues what causes the problem ? Is it the ATM or BCM ? I have replaced the main computer (Power Control Module) about 3 years ago.
our what is causing the problem? What did you do to fix it?
In the odometer window the code noBus was visible. I was told all that meant was there was a loose connection between the two computers. Grimlins? you bet because when the gauges were working the check engine light would stay on, when they were not working, all the dash lights would be on as well.
I dumped that grimlin infested car for good.
Anyone ever fix this problem?????
Please someone HELP?
This is driving me nuts!
thanx - Bob
Ken
My goodness. If this turns out to fix my problem, you will be designated as a bona-fide saint. I will take this to the dealer first thing Monday morning. I was ready to start car shopping for another car (not my first choise to do).
Thank you for your input.
Hal
I have a 98 Concorde, my ABS light came on Monday, with that my windows became stuck in the up position, turn signals won't work and my AC/heat won't come on. It's well in the 90's here and this is my only vehicle. It takes me 7 minutes to get to work and I feel like I'm going to pass out everyday while on my way in since the internal temp is so high. I've been walking everywhere else. I've heard it could also be the fuse board, whatever that is. Please answer, thanks
D
Recently I was driving and had the ABS light TRAK OFF light and sortly after the battery light came on also and I noticed that when to much power was being drawn it was having an affect on the other electrical stuff. the dash lights flicked and the radio would turn off and on the computer display by the rear view mirror would light up like at car starts and then turn to its display and this would happen about the same time as the radio would I later just turned off the radio.
I removed the alternator and had it checked and was told it was good, battery tested out good also.
was told that the problem could be my alternator relay because it is not located on my alternator or maybe my ECU
jumped car to move car then jumped car again and drive to town, no change same as before. but also had car try and have power cut out on me twice, then a few miles later power cut out. battery acted dead anuff that it didn't want to charge or I just did not give it time anuff for it to charge. car now has all lights in dash light up and flicker then go normal after after a few seconds, when key is turned lights flicker off will not start also.
would appreciate any help anyone can give,
John
i am having similar problems and have been for a couple of years now. key locking in ignition, engine not turning over when key is turned, ALL dash lights staying lit with gauges dead, AC on but blowing out hot air, .....it has gotten so bad I am finally taking the car to my mechanic for several days while he finds the electrical short (which he thinks it is, (not the BCM).
It's a 3D jigsaw puzzle to get in there and put things back together, but having the Haynes or Chilton book helps a lot. One thing they didn't say is to move the seat all the way back before disconnecting the battery negative. Also, you will need an E5 External Star Socket (aka, Torx Female Socket.)
Cheers!
I have a 1998 concorde that also has some of these problems , all power goes off completely at weird times. My gremlins are in dash , moved to radio and heat ac control. I put a new battery in it that helped for about a month - shut down 5 times today so i plugged in at work never seen so many codes. I erased all and replaced 30 amp safety shut down fues. That helped for about 1/2 hour than battery light came on again. Tested battery and it now drained to 220 on a one month old 875 cca battery. I also see my dash display and clock display on my radio dims down than comes back on bright again. My now traction control stays light up on dash.
Do not clear any more codes that set until this is repaired. Clearing codes can hide information that
could have otherwise helped to make the diagnostics easier and more efficient. Right now, if I was looking at this I would want to know if any modules had been setting low system voltage codes and if some of them were, which ones. If system voltage is incorrect, all bets are off as to whether any other codes being set are valid or not.
My dad and I changed our starter out to address the issue of my car not starting. I now have no power going through my car, no dashboard lights, no air conditioner, no window controls. The only thing I have is that the car honks when reconnecting the battery (we tested it and it has voltage, so the battery isn’t the issue) and the door lights go on when the doors are open. Can anybody help us??