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Hyundai Azera 2008



  • You know, I just found out how to Fast-Forward the CD playing - and when I did that once, the problem went away - it's a bug in the computer inside me thinks.

    Now when I take it in, they won't be able to reproduce it, but such a goofy
    symptom means it will fail sooner or later, so maybe I should still take it in,
    even though it's fixed by pressing fast forward once....
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    The 3/36 is the standard warranty, so it should carry over. The powertrain changes from 10/100 to 5/50 with the 2nd owner.
  • rhduke00rhduke00 Posts: 129
    Actually, the power train changes from 10/100 to 5/60 with the 2nd owner.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557 are correct, it is 5/60.
  • carolinabobcarolinabob Posts: 576
    5/50 "bumper to bumper" is a myth. About a month after I got my car, I received the real warranty info in the "your Azera at a Glance" brochure packet.
    It is 3/36 on audio.
    If any questions re: problems/concerns, take the car in and have dealer prepare a work order. Also make sure you agree with what he says and what he said you said before you accept it. This is especially true of any dealings with the Hyundai District Service guy.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    The 5/60 is not really a myth, it's just not as "bumper-to-bumper" as the term would imply. I found out the hard way with mine, I paid the extra money to hae my bumper-to-bumper bumped up to the 10/100 and when my fog light housing failed (took on water), I was told the warranty wouldn't cover it. Also, the latest incident with the creaking noise...the strut was covered under warranty, but the upper control arm was not. Something about the bushing being an item that wears out over time (like struts don't???). The bumper-to-bumper warranty isn't a myth, it just has exclusions. :sick:
  • tonycdtonycd Posts: 223
    Maybe they should rename it fender-to-fender.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Allow me to correct my statement...the first fog light was covered since it happened before the 60k mile limit. When the 2nd one failed, it wasn't covered since it happened around 70k miles. So...the extended warranty you pay for covers much less even though it's advertised as extending the manufacturer's warranty to 10/100. Maybe if they put the word "limited" in front of it, then folks wouldn't expect so much from it. I also found out I now have a $100 deductible to pay for incidents covered by the warranty. :confuse:
  • 101649101649 Posts: 192
    allmet how many miles do you have on your Azera? Is there a ded on the 10/100 power train warranty??? How's the Audi doing?

    My '06 Azera Limited Ultimate has14k miles on stays in the garage covered. Lumbar support(3rd motor plastic gears) and pinstriping was peeling....all covered.
    no squeaks/clunks/or funny noises from the suspension and I've done some high speed driving (120+mph) with it.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    I took a peek at the odometer this morning and it was at 69,480 miles. As far as I know, the power train warranty is all inclusive of everything that makes the car go.

    The Audi is doing great, I'm about to change the front rotors on it myself. The place I took it for state inspection over torqued the lug nuts on it when he put the wheels back on and warped the rotors. Since I can't prove it to him, I have to take that one on the chin. Luckily...the rotors are only gonna cost me about $130 for two.

    Yeah...with the mileage you have, EVERYTHING is practically covered. LOL

    You've only pushed yours to 120 mph? I had the pleasure of getting mine up to a hair under 140. :blush: However, that was with the 20" wheels on, not the OEM wheels. The fastest I've driven on OEM wheels is maybe 110 mph.
  • donniedonnie Posts: 24
    Help! We purchased a 2008 ex-rental Azera in March '09 with 13K miles. We left it in our garage for 5 days a couple of weeks ago. It didn't start as the battery was dead. Got it going, brought it to a Hyundai dealer. They "checked it out" and said nothing is wrong. A week later parked it at an airport for 6 days, came back at 10 PM, same problem. Got a jump start, brought it to the same service dept. They said they let it sit for 6 days to duplicate our experience and guess what...they told me it started just fine and "everything checked out OK." How can we trust this car? Is there anything about the Azera we should know?
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    There have been postings about this problem on other model years of the Azera. Try going back through a few of the threads and see if you can locate it as I'm not 100% sure where to direct you on it.

    If I recall, the issue was a rubber "stopper" not being in place to depress the hood pin for the alarm system and it allows the battery to drain.
  • donniedonnie Posts: 24
    Thanks for the info. I'll try to find where the problem is discussed.
  • 101649101649 Posts: 192
    original Korean batteries are lousy...get an Interstate Platinum your worries will be over
  • I'd get the strut bar. they're $100 In phoenix our curbs are massive and i noted big difference on the soft swaying i got before i put in the strut bar. It seems to keep the car from scissoring when one wheel is elevated on a curb and the other is not and u are moving and turning. Seems a little tighter when cornering as well Luck to you and the azzie
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
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  • gamlegedgamleged Posts: 442
    It's likely that one of the alarm switches (1 for each door, one trunk, one hood) is not making, most likely the hood switch as some have had a problem with that switch's actuating rubber bumper falling off. When locking with the remote, you should get the parking lights to flash and get one audible beep and a steady 30 second red, then blinking on the dash light.

    The hood switch is on the passenger side, just in front and to the left of the coolant overflow bottle, and there should be a rubber bumper up on the hood that engagages the switch when the hood is closed. You might try to open the hood, hold down the switch manually and try your remote lock to see if the situation is resolved, then fix accordingly.

    You'll want to get this resolved quickly, as, if the alarm is continually (and unsuccessfully) seeking engagement, it will drain the car battery in a day or two if you aren't driving daily, as you've already seen!...
  • donniedonnie Posts: 24
    Thanks for the tip. No luck! When I locked it with the remote, everything went the way you described, with the red light blinking every ten seconds or so. I even tried it with the hood open and my finger pressing down on the switch as you suggested. The bumper is on firmly, so I guess what's not my problem. I did notice the red light continued to blink even after I opened the doors but stopped when I started the engine. I guess that's normal(?). I dropped the rear seatback just to be sure it's not the trunk light---that's out when the trunk is closed. Ditto with the interior lights.
    Dealer sez everything checks out--the drain on the battery is very small, within specs. I asked what could be doing this. I got a honest answer: "I donno." Maybe it is the battery, maybe I should get an Interstate as someone suggested.
  • gamlegedgamleged Posts: 442
    That could be, then. My OEM battery began to fail about 2 weeks short of 2 years from when I took delivery, so they replaced it (with an Interstate) at no charge to me, on a Saturday, same day I called them...
  • donniedonnie Posts: 24
    You have a great dealer! Mine never once suggested that they would replace the battery. Advanced Auto tested the battery--said it "fails to meet industry standards and should be replaced." Dealer's test said--700 CCA rating, showed 636 CCA (good).
    Could it be that it just doesn't hold a charge more than a few days? Anyway, I think I'll get it tested one more time before going to an Interstate.
  • gamlegedgamleged Posts: 442
    My car had/has never gone more than two days without running. My battery issue was that the engine had been cranking with less vigor for a couple of weeks, and on that Saturday, it barely started in my garage, so I left it running and called the dealer, who had me come right in, so I suppose when they tested it there was no question about the poor condition of my under-two-year-old battery (well, 2.5 year-old, since manufacture) and under two years, the replacement is free...
  • wobbly_earswobbly_ears Posts: 160
    Hyundai put in an el-cheapo battery. On another forum, a lot of people replaced OEM batteries with name-brand batteries & miraculously all their problems seem to have disappeared. (They had their headlight dimming when slowing down in addition to your issue. New battery seems to have fixed it. And no Wally world battery!!)
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Yup!!! Hey...what's wrong with a Wally World battery??? I replaced my OEM battery with one from Walmart and my headlight dimming issue went away. :blush:
  • donniedonnie Posts: 24
    Had it tested today at Autozone. They said everthing is A-OK!! Guess I'll take the advice of the "gang" and buy a fresh, non-Korean battery. Won't even bother to request a free replacement from the dealer. Will report back soon. Thanks to all.
  • Has anyone, other than a 09 owner, tried to replace their present grill with the 09 grill?? Finally got to see one today and it looks much better than 06-08 grills IMO. Looked pretty good on the light colored car but I know it will make my black 08 look much better than it already looks.
  • 101649101649 Posts: 192
    dealer replacement will not be a Korean battery
  • donniedonnie Posts: 24
    I'm going to let it sit for 5-6 days and see if the battery is dead (for the 3rd time). I doubt if "my" dealer will offer a non-Korean battery, or any battery as they say it's OK. Next time I'll buy a Buick.
  • I have a question about the used 2008 Limited I bought.
    When I step on the gas lightly, not much happens, it goes about 3 miles an hour.
    If I press just a bit harder - it zooms a bit too quickly for my tastes, I have to back down. Once I'm at 20 MPH or higher - it behaves like I expect. I guess it's non-linear response from 0 to 10 MPH - no stalls, no funny noises - is this a problem?? :confuse:
  • wobbly_earswobbly_ears Posts: 160
    It is called Wide Open Throttle. Hyundai has issued a software update to fix it & they have a TSB for it. Go to the dealer & they would flash a new software & you'd be good to go, takes only few minutes.
  • 101649101649 Posts: 192
    Is that TSB just for the '08?
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