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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • toni6toni6 Posts: 4
    Do you know much it cost to change the codes after a battery change? I own a Jetta and it drives so bad after a friend put a knew battery in~
  • I just traded my 01 Jetta GL at 64k as well. Problems I've had with the car

    1)Channging head or tailight bulbs every 6 months
    2)Theres that grease that keeps comming out below the driver's door
    3)Rattles, rattles, rattles
    4) CD player is funky sometimes

    Despite those, I do miss it. It was a great car and never died on me. Drove it thru the worst rain and snow. If VW hadnt screwed with the look of the car I wouldve gotten the 06.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Nells: In order to make your posts easy to read please do us a favor and use proper punctuation (PERIODS). It is very difficult to read and follow. In order to get a response from others, please make your posts legible.

    I would avoid this Jetta with 113,000 miles on it.
  • I have a couple of basic questions regarding glazing. I recently had my car serviced at the dealership and they advised that I needed to replace my brake rotors due to the glazing. I did not have time to ask particulars at the dealership so...
    1 - What is glazing and what causes it?
    2 - What are the consequences if I don't attend to it right away?

    Thank you.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,378
    1. Improper bedding of the pads and rotors when new.

    b. Excessive use (WAY PAST heat range passed @ what the pads are rated) they in effect become gooey and glaze over.

    c. improper cooling

    d combination of:

    2. It diminishes your ability to stop.
  • toni6toni6 Posts: 4
  • Thanks for your response.

    Aside from someone looking at the pads/rotors, are there any other indications that would alert me that I have a glazing issue? i.e. sounds, handling, etc.

  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,378
    Using the technical data, the best is to pop off the wheel to take a look see at the rotors.

    Popping off the pads is realy easy, but I would hesistate to say go ahead and do it, for it IS amd CAN BE a HUGE safety issue. This can be further complicated if you do not know what you are doing OR encounter problems.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,564
    Please don't use CAP LOCKS...members tend to ignore such posts because they are too hard to read.


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  • Hi...I'm assuming that this message is in response to the "glazing" issue. So I gather that the only way to know that there is glazing is if someone looks at it. Is that right?

    Anyway, thanks for your advice. Seeing that I didn't even know what glazing was, I won't be popping off anything anytime soon. I'll be taking my Jetta in to my guys at the garage.

    Thanks! :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    First of all, Rotors dont "glaze" --- pads may "glaze". In fact you WANT the surface of the rotor to be smooth. If you are using Carbon-based pads, then part of the process of breaking-in the pads causes some carbon to transfer to the rotor surface. This actually improves braking performance.

    With todays modern pad materials, it is VERY rare for "glazing" to occour. I guess that dragging brakes or "riding" the brake-pedal might "glaze" the pads. Some people notice squeeling brakes when the pads ae "glazed".

    It is trivial to deglaze pads with some fine sandpaper upside-down on a mirror or other glass surface. 100-grit about 10-20 light strokes.

    Some beleive that using the brakes too lightly can contrubute to the APPEARANCE of "glazing". In such conditions - perform some VERY HEAVY breaking to "let the smoke out" (about 3-4 HEAVY braking from 70-down to 5 MPH) follow with at least 20 minutes of continous driving to allow things to cool-down evenly. (dont sit at a stoplight with hot brakes!!!) Once things have cooled back down, your brakes will feel MUCH stronger than before.

    If you do not feel as if your braking is compromized and am asking about "glazing" because you sensed that the mechanic was trying to pull the wool over your eyes... your senses may be correct. - I would suggest you ignore the whole idea of "glazing" and enjoy your car.

    I have posted this URL here about 50 times previous... I guess it is time to post it again:
  • The problem with starting in the rain was the coil. I found out that vw had a problem with the coils for a couple of years.
  • I have a 2002 2.0L GLS with 65,000 miles (not a turbo anything). The check engine light has flicked on and off a few times. My hubby borrowed a OBD reader and it gave him a trouble code of "Ignition coil circuit malfunction". Having read alot on the internet about coil problems, we were all set to order a replacement coil and fix before we head out on our Thanksgiving driving. However, after reading several posts on this board regarding "phantom check engine lights", I'm second-guessing replacing it in favor of bringing it to the mechanic on Monday (they are completely booked with everyone getting their cars checked before T-giving driving). The car is driving fine, no problems whatsoever, but I hesitate to take it on a 5-hour drive with a check engine light on... Just kind of wanted to get a second-opinion.

    Mary, ATL, GA
  • Check the coil for cracks. If you have as much as a hairline crack in it (moisture will find its way in there), replace the coil. If you or your husband are mechanically inclined, you can pick up the coil (price range is usually between $70 and $150) at either the dealer ($$$), local import parts store (less $$), or order it online (even less $). The only other thing you will need to buy is a 6-point Torx socket set to remove the coil from its mounting point (usually at the firewall on the transmission side of the engine compartment)...
  • Thanks for the advice. I am planning on replacing it myself - none of the local parts store have the part, so I am ordering it online and having it overnighted (still cheaper than getting from the dealer). Seems like a very easy part to replace.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    There are certain "fudge factors" that your engine learns over time; changing the battery probably reset them to the default values. I'm not sure what you mean by your car drives "crazy", but I know that if I reset the DTCs (digital trouble codes) on our VWs that for a while the engine idles a 160 RPM higher, and the air flow correction factors get reset to default values. Hopefully by the time you read this your car will be behaving "normal". Other than possibly needing the security code for your radio, I'm not aware of any other special codes that you would need after changing a battery.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    I just replaced the coil pack on my daughter's 2.0L, engine code AVH 01 Jetta. She wasn't getting any codes but when it was raining out she had an occasional studder at idle. First I replaced the ignition wires ($87), but that made no differance. The coilpack was $175 from the dealer, but I have seen them online for $100. If the car is running good, I wouldn't worry about driving it over the weekend. I'm not really positive if reading the code with a generic OBD-II reader is 100% accurate for all codes on VWs however. If someone in your area has Vagcom, that program is specifically designed to read all VW codes. If it truly is an ignition circuit malfunction, you really don't want to ignore it too long because that high voltage spark needs to go to the right place at the right time or other parts in the circuit can end up getting damaged. Do you only get the check engine lights when it is wet out or does it happen all of the time. I'm pretty sure that there are sprays that you can use on the coil to improve its electrical resistance if its only on rainy days. When I just replaced mine, I had to remove the vacuum pump (quite easy, just 3 small nuts holding it on), and the 3 fasteners for the coil pack were a #5 metric allen (I think).
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You really need to provide more info. What year is your VW?

    If it has drive-by-wire.. .then you most likely need to calibrate the throttlebody after changing the battery. (The flapper in the throttlebody needs to be "re-trained" to be in sync. with the accellerator pedal.)

    Again -- if you would please provide more details. (instead of saying "drives crazy") We may be able to help you better.
  • I can't be sure whether it was raining the first time the check engine light came on, but the second time it came on it definitely was raining. We did use a generic OBD reader, andI'll be honest, the code that we got out of the reader did not match any of the codes in the Haynes manual we have for the car. I had initially ruled it out as "maybe the codes were for older model Jettas", but maybe it is what you are talking about, that the generic OBD reader is wrong? Which would mean I'm back at square one if that's the case. I've already ordered the part off the internet (a little more expensive than you found, but I have a different engine code than your daughters'), and its easily returnable, so in the meantime I'll try and find someone with vagcom to see if the code comes out any differently. The husband said "we can just run water over the part and see if the engine sputters" but if its not driving any differently now (rain or not) I don't think pouring water over the part will make any difference. Plus it makes me a tad nervous. But yes, it does look very easy to replace, probably one of the easier repairs I've made on any car.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The easist way to test the ignition has not changed for 50 years. With engine idling, using "spritzer" bottle with water and moisten the ignition wires - then the coil.

    If the engine falters at all, there is somthing that needs attention. I regularly remove all plug wires and wash them in soapy water (dish detergent), after rinsing and thorough drying, use a LIGHT layer of silicone grease on all boots where they contact the coil. (to help seal out water.)

    I have also removed ignition coils and washed in soapy water. (the layer of grunge on the coil may cause misfiring)

    If your enginge falters when the ignition coil is spritzed with water, then install the new coil you have orderd and try the "spritz-test" again.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I'll try and find someone with vagcom

    This might help with that:
  • For 2000 Jetta 1.8 Turbo - it's 105,000 miles. If you are anywhere near those miles - have it replaced along with the water pump and the tensioner.

    Mine just broke at 112,000 and had to replace the cylinder head along with the belt, water pump and tensioner = $4000.

    The belt does not really break - the reason I was given was that if the teeth are worn out - they lose the grip and it stalls the engine and the pistons get the timing wrong and the valves get bent - so the big BIG BIG $$$ bill. :cry:

    check out edmunds - tips and advice section el=Jetta&style=4+Dr+GLS+Turbo+Sedan&mileage=105000&engine=4ITCG1.8&transmission=MANUAL&zip- =30097&synpartner=edmunds&tid=edmunds...mnt.step2.18.Volkswagen*

    I learnt it the hard way and interestingly enough had the spark plugs replaced earlier in the day and the service advisor was complimenting on the maintenance of my car and the same evening it stalled on me.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,564
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  • Please help

    I have a 2002 jetta gls 2.0L it has 160 000km on it and i find
    that it is burning oil after 5000km there will be no oil left in the engine also my temp gage on the dash board does not move at all even if the car is warm and to boot i have a hard time restarting my car when i go call to call for my job (i do
    service for business) i am in and out all day please respond with some help :sick:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Are you sure it is "BURNING" the oil? (do you see smoke out the exhaust?)

    Oil consumption is not uncommon for the 2.0L engine during 2001 and 2002. As long as you keep it topped up, there is no harm done. My daughter has one of those...she just carries 5W40 oil in the trunk and topps up the oil at every fuel fillup.

    Allowing the oil to get so low that the oil pressure light comes on is VERY damaging to the engine. NEVER-EVER allow it to get that low. If oil is allowed to get so low that the oil-pressure lamp comes on... you WILL damage the engine and it WILL start to "BURN" oil. (smoke out the exhaust)You have been duly warned

    As for the temp guage, you really need a VAG-COM to diagnose that. If you want to "shotgun" that problem, replace the engine-temp sender. There were a bunch of bad ones during 2001-2002.

    A faulty engine-temp-sender can cause hard-starting and excessive fuel comsumption. (inside of tailpipe will be BLACK with soot from excessive fuel injected)
  • skm4skm4 Posts: 10
    I had the oil changed and made sure they used 5w40. The engine light is still on though. there a way to just turn it off?? Is there any other solution to this problem? I cannot afford to take it in to someone and they do not know what the problem is either and they just "try" different "ideas."
  • thekingtheking Posts: 107
    :mad: My dealer told me today that the oil change is $65.00 because they must use synthetic oil. He showed me the info from the VW service bulletin(They use 6 quarts) He is also telling me that seeing my car has low miles I must change every 6 months because I live in an area that can get quite cold then hot(New England). I need feedback.............!
  • I got in to helping the girl next door and her 99 jetta runs like a possible lean condition. we checked for codes it came up with a missfire on all 4 cylinders and o2s switching. also low voltage on the o2s when the fuel return line is restrickted with a pliars it seems to run better. We replaced cables plugs and the coil pack, along w/ fuel filter tested w/ a differtent pressure regulator and new fuel pump.. Same problem ... Heeelllppp!!!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Yes VW does recommend synthetic oil. The price I was quoted was also $65. That is not really so bad since after the first two changes it is only once per year or once per 10,000 miles. Also I have read of some dealers charging as much as $120, so I was glad to hear my local dealer is toward the lower end of the price range.

    Not sure why weather changing would mean you have to change oil more often. Read your manual and see what it says. I don't recall reading anything that led me to believe that the normal 12 mo/10,000 mi schedule would not be adequate. I live in WI which has similar weather.

    You can also look at VWs document Choosing the right oil which says:

    Under some circumstances the engine oil should
    even be changed more frequently. Change oil more
    often if you drive mostly short distances, operate the
    vehicle in dusty areas or mostly under stop-and-go
    traffic conditions, or when you use your vehicle
    where temperatures stay below freezing point for
    long periods.

    However it does not seem to define mostly, short distances, or long periods.
  • I am having a problem turning on my 2002 Jetta, it marks an Ignition Immobilization sensor light, in other words due to one of the keys being deprogrammed my engine is locked, does anyone know how to unlock it without going to the dealer my warranty is up and it costs a bundle to go recode. PLEASE HELP! Booklet says it will unlock with the proper key but I have tried and no luck! :(
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