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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    My wife thinks the ESP is fantastic for winter driving too. I am going to try to hold out for that in whatever new car I eventually get.
  • 10641064 Posts: 2
    I had the exact same problem with my 2004 Jetta 2.0 automatic transmission. I Had 27000 miles on the car. I took it to Appleway Volkswagen in Spokane, WA and they replaced it with a new one. They didn't say what was wrong with the old one, but I didn't care as my warranty covered it. This was just done two days ago.
  • whyvwwhyvw Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Jetta GL with the same problem. I had a similar problem at 65000 miles and since my car was under warranty (Certified Used), it was fixed my VW. Now I have 128K+ and looks like I have a 'Torque Converter Lockup Clutch Mechanical Fault'. The VW service says that I have to replace the entire transmission. I can't believe that transmissions can't last beyond 65000 miles! I am yet to resolve it. I called VW customer service and they wouldn't help. The car is still at the VW dealer/service.
  • allhorizonallhorizon Posts: 483
    From what I have heard about recent A3s, Jettas, GLIs and GTIs, there is at times a bit of a timing problem when using the iginition key too quickly. Try to inset the key a bit more slowly, taking your time before you actually turn it. This is not a joke - several things need to be initialized and primed before the engine can start. If the engine does not even try to turn over with a good battery --- this is a sure sign that something got skipped.
  • chrisnhchrisnh Posts: 22
    Talked to my plow guy this morning. MechEng student at UNH, daughter's contemporary, think he is on break. "Oh yeah, going downhill jerks and all sorts of nonsence on my mother's Audi. We pulled the wheels a couple of times to get rid of the ice on the inside of the rims. You know we live on a dirt road and we think that contributes to the problem".

    Why do I think mom's car is now parked every night in that nice heated slab floor garage that the "boys built" to work on toys. :)
  • mrjettemrjette Posts: 122

    The simplest of solutions. Again, I kind of freaked and thought the worst when I suddenly experienced the carzy vibration. But, considering a small weight (like 1/4 oz.) can be used to create "balance", a frozen chunk of ice will certainly create "unbalance".

    Glad it worked out for you.

  • rcolli02rcolli02 Posts: 1
    We have the exact same problem with our 2002 Jetta. 45,000 miles. Losing lots of oil mysteriously every couple of thousand miles. Clean motor, no apparent leaks, no excessive smoking. Dealership has no clue what's going on with it. Offered a lame explanation saying that this is common for VWs to burn so much oil. Has anyone else out there experienced this? If so, any answers? :confuse:
  • waluleywaluley Posts: 1
    I have an 01 Jetta that has already had the hazard switch replaced by a recall a year ago. However, now when I complete a turn and the signal turns off, there is still a intermitant clicking. Sometimes it is fast and stops, sometimes it will click a few minutes later or while I am driving. I went to the dealer and bought a new switch to replace it and still have the problem. I have read that the signal will click faster when a bulb is out, could this be the culprit?

    Any answer would be appreciated, because the clicking will drive me insane.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The dealership was correct!! Some of the 2001-2002 2.0L engines do - in fact- consume oil.

    Consuming oil - by itself - is not a big deal. HOWEVER: Allowing the oil to get so low that the pressure-light comes on may damage the engine.

    My daughters each have a 2001 VW (Golf and NewBeetle). The Golf consumes oil while the NB consumes none at all.

    Check your oil at every gas-fillup and carry a quart of 5w30 at all times.

    Also, check your snowscreen and clean it often. Most of the oil is being sucked thru the intake (PCV system) and keeping the snowscreen clean can reduce the amount of vacuum in the intake plenum.
  • I'm considering purchasing my leased 2002 Jetta Wagon GLS TDI. Does anyone know the cost of the extended warranty, what it covers and whether or not it's worth it? Anyone have experience with the VW extended warranty?
  • jkrug9jkrug9 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 VW Jetta VR6 and have been havng a problem I was hoping one of you may have run acrossed. I haven't driven it for some and noticed recently as soon as I start it I hear kind of a whine for about 2 seconds. It does this everytime. The car seems to run fine otherwise. I lifted the hood and had a friend start it a couple of times as I listened. It does not seem to be a belt (though it does kind of sound that way). Seems to be coming from the back of the engine. Anyway, any help would be appreciated.
  • I am in the market for a 2001 volkswagen jetta 1.8L Turbo. I was told that by having a turbo charger on any car engine would cut the engine life in half. I was wondering if this is true.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,869
    No, maybe 10% less longevity on any factory engineered turbo vs. the same engine normally aspirated---if you bolt one on an engine not built for a turbo, you might not do as well.

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  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have never heard of anyone actually wearing out an engine. (Except a trucker-buddy that has about 1 MILLION miles on his Freightliner)

    If you follow the VW recommendations and use the proper engine-oil and only run hi-test gasoline, I am certain you will not wear out the engine before the rest of the car wears out. (well over 150K miles )
  • crossbolcrossbol Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2004 VW Jetta Wagon 1.8T and I've been using regular gas. I did not have any problems by using regular gas. What they told me is that while you stay with one type of gas you are fine. And be sure you get it from a "reliable" gas station.
  • I would love to get the turbo engine, but the premium gas factor turns me away. is that ok to use regular gas in the turbo engine??
  • migelrmigelr Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Jetta and was driving along and the motor just quit. Doing checks on it I have no fire or fuel. Have changed coil out and checked all wires and stuff. Has anybody had this problem and what do I look for? ECM ?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There is a reason that turbocharged engines reccommend higher octane fuel. Some people may report that they have had "no problems" while running low-octane fuel... but they are only fooling themselves.

    Higher octane means SLOWER BURNING fuel as compared to lower octane. Using too-low an octane in a turbocharged engine is asking for PRE-IGNITION. This can put a hole in a piston.

    Do yourself and your engine a favor... follow the recomendations for fuel and oil. German automobiles especially need to follow the recommendations. Squeezing that kind of performance from a small engine means that the engine is under more stress.

    I also was turned away by the requirement for hi-octane fuel in the 1.8T. I ended up with the TDI... it is ALSO turbocharged.... and gets up to 56 MPG.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Is the $10 more per month in premium gas really that much of a deterrent?
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    Totally agreed with Bpeebles. If you (fppdrummer)want to ruin the engine, go for 87 octane. You can try the difference of power, by putting 93 or 94 octane gas. Its just night and day. My VR6 also requires minimum 91 Octane, but now I use 93 or 94 octane to get the best power out of it. Good luck if you keep using 87.">link title
  • refalenrefalen Posts: 3
    My daughter has a 2000 Jetta with a manual 5 speed transmission. It has around 66,000 miles. I believe that it has the 1.8L engine. Currently she describes a problem of the engine speeding up then slowing down again while she is stopped at a traffic light. She says that this seems to happen about 3 or 4 time ( during the same stop ) but does not do it every time she stops for a light. She also mentions that the "Check Engine Light" has come back on.

    Any suggestions / assistance would be greatly appreciated
  • i am having the same problem. did you find out what caused this problem?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The problem you describe may be related to the MAF(MasAirFlow) sensor.

    Some of the 1999-2001 models had a letter sent out about a factory "extended warantee" for the MAF sensor.
  • I'd first like to say that I have found this forum very useful in the past so I thank you!

    I have a 2002 Volkswagen Jetta GLS that always has the check engine light on. Last week I was rushing to an appointment and was on empty but was in a hurry so I put about 1/4 tank of gas. When I left the appointment and turned on my car it somewhat shuttered and hesitated, but started. Later on in the day I turned my car on again and it had a very weird noise, it was humming over and over again with only about a second in between, as I pulled out of my driveway the battery light turned on and the car just stalled (I replaced my battery back in January). We were able to turn on the car after several attempts by pumping the gas pedal but a cloud of smoke came out of the back. The car was fine for about 2 days but now whenever I try to turn on the car it hesitates and practically sounds like a boat turning on (very deep, low, gurgling noises), unless I pump the gas at that point it won't turn on (a couple of dashboard lights come up when I'm trying to turn it on, including the battery light), once it's on there's no driving issues. Also, when it doesn't hesitate to turn on, it starts but with a really peculiar noise after the start that kind of sounds like a belt pulling. A couple of mechanics have told me it's either a problem with the starter or alternator, but wanted to make sure I got a neutral opinion before I began spending enormous amounts of money on repairs. Please help!
  • refalenrefalen Posts: 3
    Thank you for the information. I have printed the letter and will pass it on. We bought the car second hand from a VW dealer so I am not sure how that works.

    The error codes that I did not know about seem to indicate that there is a problem with the Temperature Sensor. the codes are P1296 and P1255 which translate to DTC 17704 and DTC 17663. I am in the act of trying to identify if I have a repair manual so that I could determine the feasability of replaceing the sendor my self. I will also look into the MAF sensor as well.

    I have googled quite a bit even jeeved a couple of times, but I am unable to find an online repair manual ( other than one I could buy and have shipped to me) Are you aware of any type of online service manual?
  • refalenrefalen Posts: 3
    The error codes seem to indicate that there is a problem with the Temperature Sensor. the codes are P1296 and P1255 which translate to DTC 17704 and DTC 17663. I am in the act of trying to identify if I have a repair manual so that I could determine the feasability of replaceing the sendor my self. I will also look into the MAF sensor as well.

    I have googled quite a bit even jeeved a couple of times, but I am unable to find an online repair manual ( other than one I could buy and have shipped to me) Are you aware of any type of online service manual
  • jazzmennjazzmenn Posts: 1
    what is the online store that you purchased the tank from?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I am lucky -- my wife gave me the factory service manual for christmas. Given that we have 3 VWs in the family and I have VagCom, I am well-prepared for most maintenance tasks at this point.

    The "coolant temperture sensor" (CTS)is KNOWN to have issues. It has been superceeded several times. (I assume that currently available temp. sensors are now reliable)

    Although I have never had to replace the CTS myself, I understand that is is simply a matter of removing the electrical connector, then pulling off a clip and it slides out. (Dont forget to drain some antifreeze 1st into a clean container so it can be reused)

    NEVER EVER use standard "green" antifreeze in VW engine. Use only G12.
  • elbyelby Posts: 1
    first I,m not a mechanic but I know the simple things. It does sound like the starter if it drags or has a grinding sound. The hesitation may just be water in the tank especially if you run low tanks alot. Just put a can of Seafoam cleaner/dryer in gas tank with 93 octane gas that will remove any water.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    I really would not be driving this car with the problems you are describing. Sometimes, repairs that could be fixed at a reasonable cost can turn into very expensive repairs by letting them go. When a cars stalls or makes the weird noises that you describe, all I can think of is things tearing themselves up. The stuff that you have described sounds like your engine has multiple issues. When the "battery" light on your dash comes on, it does not mean that your battery needs to be replaced, it means that the alternator is not charging it. I tend to replace my batteries based on age (whatever the warranty is thats about how long they typically last) and how well they turn the car over in the dead of winter (hardest condition on a battery for starting a car; slow cranking is indicative of tired battery). With the battery light coming on as you described, it sounds like you alternator did stop turning, but there are other things that may have caused this (the other things you describe that happened later make me think your alternator is ok). Your alternator is driven by your serpentine belt, a spring loaded tensioner maintains the propper tension on the serpentine belt. It is fairly common for the spring in the belt tensioner to break, this could lead to some funny humming noises. If the belt tensioner is OK, you could have a problem with some other auxiliary (the serpentine belt drives your power steering pump, alternator, air conditioning compressor and is driven by the crankshaft pulley). If the battery light just came on as the car was stalling that can be normal as a car stalls. You didn't mention what engine your car has in it (I am guess the 2.0 liter, not the 1.8 liter turbocharged). You really need to have the engine codes read to get a better idea of what other issues your car has going on. When the "check engine" light is lit, something that feeds information to your car's computer is not right. Sometimes certain codes can be ignored, but others should not. Someone needs to naarow down where the gurgling noises are coming from. Mechanics have stethascopes with a long rod attached that allows them to pinpoint funny noises. If you know someone that has Vagcom (its PC based software that gets installed on a laptop, with the propper cable the engine codes can be read) ask them to see what codes are set. One of the advantages of going to a dealer over a garage is they will have the correct equipment to diagnose any engine codes. The mechanic that told you it is either your alternator or your starter doesn't sound like he has listened to the problems you described. These cars have a very high incidence of MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors failing; with Vagcom this can easily be checked (you might even find this is still covered under your warranty). Just out of curiosity, does damp or rainy weather make your problem any worse (do you have problems on dry days?); if so, it could be a problem with your coil pack or possibly a bad spark plug wire. Good luck.
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