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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    This is a common problem with VWs.... and your 2000 is right on schedule to have this problem. I fixed my daughters 2001 last year... and I have had to fix this problem on several other VWs over the years.

    The shafts where the windsheild-wipers rotate are getting hard for the motor to move. The lubrication is probubly dried out. The "fix" is simple enough... lubricate the problem-areas. The tough part is GETTING into the area.

    Another option is to simply replace the entire wiper moter transmission assembly. (which includes new wiper-axles).

    Here is a link to a discussion about this windshield-wiper problem. It discusses both of the options I mention above plus several others. It also has photos and detaild instructions about how to libricate the shafts.
  • auto06auto06 Posts: 3
    Hi, I have a 2004 Jetta 2.0 (Auto)odm 24,000 mi using quite a bit of oil. 1qt per 1300 mi. What do you mean "This has been resolved"? My local VW states it's Normal to use 1qt per 1000 mi. I do not agree with this!!

    Did the VW dealership or Corp office okay a repair to your engine???
  • auto06auto06 Posts: 3
    What brand of 5w-40 oil are you using??
    My 2004 Jetts 2.0 Auto is using quite a bit of oil. VW says that 1qt per 1000mi is normal. I do not agree with VW!! Are that any other VW owners has similar problems; any recall, service bulletins..etc. HELP!!

    I think the 2.0 is used in other model Bugs, Golf..etc. Do they all burn or consume oil at that rate??
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    I need some help in changing the air filter, is there only two screws to unscrew as I have unscrew the two screws and the filter plastic hood still cannot be removed?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Oil consumption was an issue with early MK4 VWs (Model year 2000 - 2001) I have never heard of a 2004 2.0L with an oil-consumption issue.

    Here is the official Oil Consumption TSB from VW

    I wonder if your engine was not broken in properly? (Like using the cruze-control during the breakin period) There is lso a possibility of other factors causing oil-consumption on your 2004. (like allowing the oil to run low or problems with the crankcase-breather) Are you CERTAIN that it is not leaking somwhere?

    In any case, it is not really a "problem" per-se. As long as you keep oil in the engine, it will last a very long time.

    Each of my 2 daughters have 2001 VWs. One of them consumes NO oil and the other one consumes about 1qt per 1000 miles. She carries a case of oil in the hatch and adds as necessarry.
  • I was hoping someone could help me with this problem.

    The check engine light on my 2002 Jetta 1.8T came on this weekend while I was away visiting my parents. I drove it about 100 miles with the light on because - well- it was running and I wanted to get there. I took it into the shop my Dad uses (for an oil change and a check on it) and the mechanic ran the diagnostic test. The test indicates that I need a new catalytic converter.

    I bought this car used last year from a non-VW dealer. I bought the extended warranty but the catalytic converter is not covered (figures!!!!!!!!).

    Right after I purchased the car the dealer I purchased it from had to send it over to VW to replace engine coils b/c the car was just loosing power after exiting the highway. That was last March and about 8k miles ago.

    Could this have affected the cat converter?

    Also, looks like there was a recall for this part but NOT on my 2002 Model. (ugh!)

    Any one have the same problems?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Why should your extended warantee cover something that is ALREADY covered under Federal government regulations? All emmissions equipment are coverd by the Federal Emmisions Warantee. You need to read it carefully.

    I beleive on your 2002 that covers all emmissions equipment for 10 years / 100,000 miles.
  • Yes, you're right! Spoke to someone over at VW Customer Care this morning. They said all cars are covered under this federal 8 year 80,000, mile warranty. Includes coverage of the:

    Catalytic converter
    Onboard diagnostic

    Really good to know!!!! Does anyone know if the warranty requires all service records? I bought my car used so I have mine but not the previous owners.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Just a correction - The 8year/80,000 was changed to 10 year/100,000 by the feds. I beleive any vehicle sold as model year 2000 and newer falls under the 10/100,000 (I am not certain of the specifics though...)

    Like I said before READ THE EMMISSSIONS WARANTEE THAT CAME WITH YOUR CAR. That document should be correct for your specific automobile.
  • thank you very much. I got lots of usefull information. i'll try it this weekend and hope I can fix it.

    thanks again
  • Help! Can anybody tell me how to fix my radio? I took the face off because it was coming loose at the top, and I thought it would be easy to put back on once I figured out why it wasn't fitting properly. Now, the power comes on, but I can't get it to "snap" back into place and none of the controls work. Also, all I get is static noise. Did I screw it up permanently or can I fix this?

    Thanks for your help!
  • thank you very much, I replaced that transmision system and you were right. right know it's working great.
  • afussafuss Posts: 1
    I purchased a used 1999 Jetta in november. I've had problems with the check engine light. but it seems to fix itself. Lately though.. the weather has been a bit colder than my car is used too.. at least since i've owned it. When i get in the car to start it once the engine is cooled. the red light beeps and blinks at me. After a little while it goes off. I wasn't too concerned until i started the car after it was half way to regular temp. and the red blinking and beeping started again then soon cut off. I am thinking it's electrical. but i haven't read anything up here that sounds somewhat similar.
    any guesses? :(
  • I am having this exact problem with my jetta. I have a 2001 1.8T. I love it, but the last six months have been absolute hell.

    Reading your post described my current problem perfectly! Did you ever find what was wrong? My engine light is on, and I took my car in for this exact reason about a month ago.When my engine light came on again two weeks ago I went to have the codes read. My mechanic told me the engine was running too rich on fuel, but he didn't know why. Now my car won't even drive without the rpm's surging out of control.

    Please help if you have any information.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    A bad MAF (Mass AirFlow sensor) is the most common reason for running rich. A MAF is VERY easy to replace but pretty expensive. (I have replaced MAF in about 3 minutes in a pouring rainstorm)

    Your 2001 was part of an "extended warantee" pertaining to the MAF. Here is a link to the details. ==>

    When I diagnosed a bad MAF in my daughters 2001, the dealership gladly replaced the MAF at no charge.

    Also, your 2001 may run rich due to bad ETC ( Engine Temparture Sensor). (The sensor incorrectly tells the computer that the engine is always cold... so it injects too much fuel)

    The ETC is less than $20 and is pretty easy to replace, (My daughter and I replaced the ETC in her Gulf in the dark. She held the flaslight and I had it replaced within 5 minutes.)

    PS: If you mechanic really did not know the reasons your engine is running too rich... mebbie it is time to get another mechanic. This is pretty basic stuff.
  • lxs333lxs333 Posts: 5
    My 2001 wolfsburg (75000 mileage), bought it new 6 yrs ago and has not given me that much problem excepts some repairs due to the recalls.
    Mine has both MAF and ETC replaced recently, but after driving for about 2 weeks, the engine light is on again and I feel the turbo lag pretty seriously. Can someone share your experience and knowledge about why I'm having this symptoms? Appreciate your help!!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There are several reasons that you may be experiencing turbo lag. It could be a $12 solenoid.... or a $1500 turbocharger.

    Without knowing the code which is causing the CEL (Check engine Light), we cannot help you very much.

    Many auto-parts places will "read the code" for you for free. Perhaps if you can tell us the code.
  • arlanbarlanb Posts: 3
    My 95 Jetta GL 111 has been running great, but the other day the "check Engine" light went on, but it continued running fine for a couple of days. Then I went out to start it, and it ran really rough for about a minute, then died, and would not restart. White smoke comes from the exhaust that smells like unburned gasoline. I've tried it each day for the last three days, and it does exactly the same thing.
    The oil and coolant are fine. Any ideas?
  • This winter my 2000 Jetta began surging forward from a stop. It only happens when the weather is below 40 and the car is not warmed up.

    It appears that the transmission is engaging after a 1-2 sec delay when I give it gas. Of course this causes a quick surge or jolt forward.

    So far, the geniuses at the dealership have replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Ignition (after pulling some stored faults in the computer)despite my belief that it is a transmission or computer problem.

    I would like to hear if anyone else has had a similar problem (and how it was solved) before the dealership takes anymore of my money for doing nothing. Thanks!
  • esmesm Posts: 3
    I got 2001 VW jetta 2.0 with 165K mileage, during warm up and in mornings or eninge is cold, it runs rough and will not accelerate at all, engine scanner shows P1128, long term fuel trim B1 system too lean, help.
  • My daughter's Jetta died on the road to the airport.
    She just bought it used 3 months ago. 92000 miles on it.
    The Check engine light has a code for rich fuel. Has been on since purchasing it.
    We had it towed to CarX. They did a diagnostic for $70.
    They said it was the fuel pump.
    They wanted $420.00 for part and $70 to install.
    So we towed it by rope behind my son's car to home.
    We bought a pump from TrePerformance on Ebay.
    $80 for part. $40 S&H (Express USPS)
    I put the pump in but slots on bottom will not line up to tabs on bottom of gas tank. It seems only three line up.
    Connected all and still it will not start.
    Took pressure sensor off at front of engine and there is gas there. Also supply line has pressure in it.
    What else could be wrong?
    What else can be wrong and how should I check?

    I tried the old pump while outside of the tank by connecting it to 12v and it seemed to be turning. Of course it may not be up to pressure.

    Thanks for any help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You car is running WAYY too rich. The possible fixes may include the MAF or ETS. You need to "pull the code" to see what is up.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is VERY unlikely that a fuelpump would make engine run rich. I cant think of any way this is possible. (A weak fuelpump *may* cause LEAN running if it is weak.... but not RICH.)

    A fuel-injected engine runs rich if the computer is fed bad information from a sensor. There are several ways to troubleshoot the sensors. (Or just replace the inexpensive ones and hope for the best.)

    Consider the (Engine Temparture Sensor) then the MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor as the most probable culprits.

    You should have fixed this long ago when you noticed the CEL was on. Your daughter is spending wayy too much in gasoline with the engine running rich. It is well worth taking the time to fix it the right way.
  • Thank you for the information on the MAF and the ETS. I will replace those.
    But what do you think is wrong that it will not start even with enough gas at the fuel pressure sensor?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Basic engine troubleshooting (Which I learned around age 12) says to "read" the sparkplugs.
    This troubleshooting technique holds true if you are working on a 1-cylinder lawnmower...or an exotic 12-cylinder sportscar. (Why do you think that most engine troubleshooting books have several color photos of sparkplug tips in various conditions?)

    By looking at the insulator-tips on the sparkplugs, you should be able to tell a lot about what is going on.

    Another thing I learned around age 12 is that an internal-combustion engine needs only 3 things to run..... compression, ignition and fuel. Using the process of elimination, you should easily be able to determine what the problem is.

    HINT: Determine which of these 3 things is missing ;)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Another hint.... on VWs, you can simply DISCONECT the electrical plug from the MAF (when ignition is OFF!) and see if that improves things. Somtimes, running without any MAF signal at all is better than running with BAD signals from a defective MAF.

    NOTE: Unplugging the MAF will definately cause the CEL to light up. This is because the onboard computer will fall back into a "failsafe" mode to keep the engine running.

    Also, Keep in mind that another sensor (The O2 sensor screwed into the exhaust pipe) can cause rich running.

    Basic lesson about electronic fuel injection:
    The onboard computer monitors the O2 sensor and adjusts the amount of fuel injected to maintain optimum effiency. The signal from the MAF is used to modify the fuel injection based on airflow into the engine.

    Finally, the Engine Temp sensor is used to further modify the injected fuel based on when the engine is cold or hot. A common failure mode is for the ET sensor to tell the conputer that the engine is ALWAYS cold (even when it is hot)... this causes a rich running condition.
  • trueogtrueog Posts: 2
    Hey Guys I need a little help with my 1997 VW Jetta GLS 2.0L
    For the last couple months, when I'm driving my car, inside the cabin area there's a strong exhaust smell that sometimes smells like gas. It seems to be coming in through the vents, and it switches between exhaust smell and a heavy gas smell. It doesn't seem to be leaking gasoline, as I've raised the car and checked. However its fuel consumption right now is out of this world, its horrbile on gas and seems to be dumping raw fuel/ running very rich. I can't seem to figure out what the problem could possibly be. If you guys could give me any suggestions or idea's on what it might be it would make a world of a difference.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Please read thru my past appends to get your answer... I must have answered this type of question 3 times in the past month.
  • 1vwman1vwman Posts: 14
    Well 1st system too rich would be too much gas...second the mass air meter is a cause for too rich sometimes....
  • 1vwman1vwman Posts: 14
    Mass air meter
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