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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • 1vwman1vwman Posts: 14
    all your lights may be blinking but the slightest bad contact can be the cause...gently hit each light when they are fast and see if the jolt fixes the prob then replace that bulb and socket
  • 1vwman1vwman Posts: 14
    If it was that way from the start the belt would of freyed before 5k....i have seen it before the slightest thing can get thrown up into the belts and damage a pully...and yeah if the dealer turned the pully into vw they would decline the claim...sorry
  • 1vwman1vwman Posts: 14
    its sad but true...1 qt per 1k is the rule...dont agree but they say its ok...I know down the road as the engine breaks in the rings will seal and you will not use as much and the power will get better as well...if it goes over 1qt a re-ring is in order..
  • esmesm Posts: 3
    I will research it, but if you know which forum message number it is would really appreciate it, thanks
  • esmesm Posts: 3
    With engine running rough, will not accelerate and feel like it wants stalls, during morning time and engine is cold, beside the mass air meter, what is the second item that could be the problem???
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    The easiest thing to do is to use the "Search This Discussion" feature on the page bar. You may have missed that, lots of folks do.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Also, you may wish to track the following VW discussions which have lots of good info in them. For the most part... (except for TDI engine) all the VW vehicles are simular.

    *)Volkswagen Beetle Owners: Problems & Solutions
    *)VW Jetta TDI
    *)Jetta Engine Questions
    *)Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair
  • trueogtrueog Posts: 2
    Thanks for the input guys. The problem is solved. No thanks to anyone here, most people on this board don't know shiiit. This board probably has the biggest collection of people asking questions to deaf ears, so honestly do your self a favor and join a proper VW online club...

    I started off by changing OEM Cap/Rotor and Spark Plugs hoping to solve the burning rich problem, and it worked like a charm. Turns out one of my cables was shot, so i must have been running on 3cyc's and the computer was probably compensating for the power loss. This lead to excessive fuel consumption, it was pretty much dumping fuel like a 747 planning a crash landing.

    While I was doing the spark plugs, I noticed my breather hose which looked fine from my viewing side, had actually eroded from the side facing the engine. It had a massive hole in it and i noticed oil residue against the engine. When I removed it, it was fragile and breaking with simple squeezing. I took the part to VW and they quickly found the part for me.

    Cost: $125 for Bosch Spark Plug Cables
    $35 for cap and rotor
    $77 for oil breather hose

    all prices in CDN.

    I had two mechanics(indies) tell me my engine was shot and no one noticed the problems of one cylinder not working and claimed head gasket as reason for oil smell entering through vents. The car runs like brand new right now and the smell is gone.

    p.s. The only reason I did such a massive write up is to show people that you should always take a look your self before listening to a mechanic, i thought I was in for an engine overhaul.
  • Hey every body! It's been awhile since I have been on. I still see an old stalwart:bpeeples is still helping every one. Where's ruking? Anyway, my 03 TDI manual tran with 87k has been running great without the MAF plugged in for the last year and I have been getting great gas mileage (combined 44mpg)Well, I have the 4 year car itch real bad right now (looking to get an 06 Xterra 6sp manual)and I was just ready to put up my car for sale (around 10K)when the belt started squeaking really bad. I took it to my regular mechanic who couldn't isolate the problem. He could see the belt tensioner was leaking slightly and he thought the belt was in good shape. He wasn't sure if it was a bad pulley, belt, or tensioner. So he sprayed the belt down to see if that might help. It didn't. I drove it home and could notice some power surges (the lights would get brighter and you could feel a slight surge like a click) Well, I got it home from work the next day, and then tried to leave an hour later. It started up but when I tried to pull away the power steering was out. I opened up the hood and, sure enough the belt was broken. Is that the only belt? Is it expensive to put in at the dealership? My buddy says he can do it, but it aint gonna be fun? Do you think it was a bad tensioner that caused it? How can you tell? Past experiences anyone? Thanks in advancefor your help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,349
    glad you got your car fixed.

    It's rather unfair to blame a forum for not being able to fix your car by remote control, and really it sounds like the people who don't know very much are the mechanics you consulted---and THEY had the car in front of them.

    Plenty of people get very good answers here...sorry you didn't.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your 2003 TDI is known to have issues with the alternator pulley... It is not just a solid pulley -- instead, it contains a one-way device (sorta like a rachit). When this pully starts to go bad, it is said to squeel as if the belt is slipping. Most folks with this problem ususally replace the belt and the squeeling does not get any better.

    A bad alternator pully may also explain why your lights were getting brighter/dimmer. Your buddys thought about a bad tensionor should also be considerd. If the alternator pulley has been misbehaving for several thousand miles, it could have overworked the tensionor too.

    (The reason VW engineers built a one-way device into the alternator pully is to put less strain on the tensionor during decellation)

    Before just putting a new serpentine belt in place, ALL of the pulleys it touches should be inspected for undue wear. A serpentine belt does not just snap... breakage is usually caused by mis-aligned pullies.

    PS: You should consider replacing that bad MAF... my 2003 TDI gets well over 50MPG. (up to 56MPG)....that 44MPG you are getting is pretty lame for a 2003 TDI

    Let me put it this way - If my 2003 TDI got only 44MPG, I would start looking for the problem immedeately. I expect AT LEAST 650 miles per tank of fuel. (usually more like 730 miles per tank)
  • Well this is what has been checked.
    The ignition coil has electrical power.
    Fuel pump fuse has no power when key on Acc.
    When the key is in the engine start mode there is power to fuel pump and the fuel pump goes on.
    There is gas at vacuum sensor on the return fuel line.
    There is spark to the distributor cap.
    There is some notice of brown discoloration in the distributor cap. Arcing?

    Sprayed starting fluid into the air intake with the following result:
    A less than a second buck of some type.

    No sign of spark plug wires shorting out.

    Several have suggested the following:
    Hall sender or sensor. Located at the bottom of and inside the distributor.
    The crank shaft sensor.
    The fuel pump relay.
    Some device that has shut off the fuel at the injectors?
    Some device that has shut off the fuel at the fuel rail?
    The injectors are not spraying fuel into the engine?

    I thought the fuel pump primed when the key was in Acc. position?

    Thanks for any help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It looks as if you "did your homework" and checked a lot of pertinant items. (You are a lot better than many folks that ask "My car wont start can you tell me why?"...LOL)

    I would also suggest that you pull the sparkplugs and "read" them.... if they are "dry" you DEFINATELY have a fuel problem... if they are "wet" then you are getting fuel.

    Given the info you have provided....
    I would say that you can assume that the ignition is OK. (Perhaps ruling out Hall sensor, and crank sensor.)

    The key is that you say the engine trys to start when you spray some starting-fluid in.... this points to the FUEL system not delivering gasoline.

    If this is the case, it is more difficult to troubleshoot than ignition problem. If you can put a pressure-guage on the fuel-rail, that could cut the problem down the middle (rule out pump and pressure system leaving the injector system as the isssue.)

    Let us know how it works out...
  • "The key is that you say the engine trys to start when you spray some starting-fluid in.... this points to the FUEL system not delivering gasoline."

    I do not see where you arrived at this answer.
    I said that the engine only gave like a bump for less than a second.

    There does not appear to be any sign that the engine trys to start.

    I thank you for the info on reading the plugs. I had thought that, and it was the next thing to do. Of course that is after putting on the new cap and rotor. I may just put in the new plugs if I can get to them. The intake manifold seems to be in the way of two of them.

    If the plugs are dry and spraying starter fluid into the air intake hose does not get it started that is why I thought the car is being told not to start. Is there such a item that prevents the engine from running? Would any of the existing relays make it not work if the fuel pressure is too low?

    Should I disconnect the battery and reset the CEL. I know she had a new radio put in that does not need a code. When she purchased the car the dealer wanted 40 to reset the code. The faceplate of that radio was broken so she just brought another for 130 installed at Best Buy.

    The Hall unit would have been 53 and the Crank unit 78 for a total of 131. If I do not need those then I am good.

    How can I fool the system to believe there is enough fuel pressure? Since, I do see fuel at the rail on the left of the intake manifold. At least on the return line under the sensor. This is the line with a blue arrow. I took off the fork clip and as I lifted the sensor there was fuel squirting out. I did not take out the sensor or pressure switch. I just lifted it.

    Any more help would be appreciated.

    Putting this car into any regular shop is pointless. VW is it's own kind of animal. I may have to get it to an import shop where they work on VWs regularly or just take it to a dealer shop. That will be a pretty hefty outlay.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I hope you are not spraying that starter fluid into the intake where it can cantaminate the MAF sensor! You should be spraying AFTER the MAF sensor.

    It is better to pop off one of the smaller hoses near the throttlebody and spray into that opening. (I usuall save spray nozzles before tossing any cans... so I have some spare WD40 nozzles with the thin pipe on it that makes it EASY to get starter spray into the smallest opening.)

    PS: I know what you mean about the center 2 sparkplugs being VERY difficult to access.
  • Yes I disconnected the MAF and sprayed into the hose after it.
  • Hello,

    This is my first car, ever.

    I am taking my car for a service check tomorrow but, I just had to run this by some people.

    When I purchased my car in July 2006 it already at 23,330 miles on it. To date I drove it approx. 2,620 miles.

    I started checking my dipstick a week ago because I was told around 3,000, you have to bring in for oil change, fluids, etc.

    My dipstick was dry.

    I called a different service place and the VW lady told me that the dipstick was tricky and that i needed to bring it in, since I may still have oil in there. She went on to tell me not to take it to a midas, pep boys because it is a european car and they won't know how to take care of it. When I ask to make an appt. the next one was a week and a half away! I asked what type of oil and she said 10w30

    To make a long story short, I took to a pep boys after I purchased the oil and they stated to their knowledge and by computer I was to have 5w30, 10w30 was too heavy. After checking the engine they stated that there was no oil. I put 2 bottles of oil in the engine.

    Now, from what I read in the manual, no warning light comes on for low oil and my engine was not making any type of noises, stallings or anything, but, How can oil disappear from an engine? People are saying that oil does not disappear only gets dirty? I do not see any leaks from where I parked recently or ever.

    Any thoughts? :surprise:
  • pulgopulgo Posts: 400
    The 2.0. VW engine is known to use quite a bit of oil. There are some engines that use minimal amounts and others up to 1 qt per 1000 miles. This high oil consumption, according to VW, is within normal parameters. I had a Golf 2.0. that had a very careful break in period and after more than 100k miles of ownership used only about 1/2 qt every 5k miles.

    Make sure to check the oil in your Jetta at EVERY fill-up or at least bi-weekly.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,334
    ..."I put 2 bottles of oil in the engine"...

    This may or may not have solved the problem/s. :( :)

    There are a couple of things I think you should know and be able to do (item 3):

    1. The actual oem recommended oil dipstick check procedure
    2. The overnight level, (knowing the range between minimum and maximum during #1 item one).
    3. Do a dipstick oil check at no more than 1000 mile intervals. Indeed the information you provided indicates you have a 2.0 engine that consumes 1 qt of oil each 1000 miles or so.
    4. Carry 1/2 qts of the correct specification and viscosity oil in your trunk

    Once you know items 1 and 2 you can CHECK, and if necessary, add oil with a reasonable assurance you are within the min and max ranges.

    Know what the actual specification and viscosity the oem calls for. As you have experienced, even the dealer can be incorrect.

    The OCI or oil change interval is 10,000 miles!! If you chose to go to that interval, given your consumption you can expect to consume an additional 10 qts. This means a 3,000 mile OCI is TOTAL overkill.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Congratulations on owning your first car... and WELCOME to the world of auto-ownership.

    You have already learned that MOST people have NO CLUE what they are talking about.
    *)Lady at dealership was WRONG about proper viscosity. (5w30 is correct for your car)
    *)People that tell you that oil cannot disapear are WRONG. (it can leak or burn off)

    You did NOT tell us WHICH ENGINE you have. Since VW offered 4 different engines in 2003, we really need to know what we are talking about before we can give you any details.

    Since you added 2 bottles (I assume quarts) then there was still some oil in the engine...that is why the oil-pressure light did not come on.

    MEASURING THE AMOUNT OF OIL IN THE ENGINE. It measures the pressure of the oil being pumped to the bearings. If this light comes on--- VERY SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE can occour within 2 minets of running the engine.

    I think you caught the low oil in time before any damage ocoured.

    BOTTOM LINE: With you "new" car, You need to check the oil EVERY TIME you fill up with fuel. After awhile, you will start to get a better understanding of what is going on.... (how fast is the oil going down and under what conditions does it go down highway driving)

    Once you get to know your car better, then you can cut back to checking the oil perhaps once a month.

    PS: If you have been reading the owners-manual... why the heck did you just not read the part about which oil viscosity to use and how to use the dipstick instead of asking somone that has no clue?
  • I replaced the battery in my 2002 VW Jetta TDI after it's five year old original died. I tried several times to start the car, but after a few attempts, I turned the key to the start position and nothing happens. HELP!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,349
    Trying cleaning and tightening the battery cables.

    Also if you took a battery off the shelf of a store, it may or may not be properly charged up.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I agree with the past appender... a "new" battery is not necessarraly a "good" battery.

    Dont forget that a Lead-Acid battery starts to "age" as soon as the acid is put into it. Always check the date-code on a battery before purchasing it. If it has been sitting on the shelf filled with acid for months... it is likely to have very little power in it. (That is why the very best batteries are stored DRY and acid is added when you purchase it)

    In all cases, a new battery needs to be FULLY CHARGED on a charger before it is expected to provide good performance.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,334
    So if I read correctly what you have said, you are on the second battery?

    To hopefully solve the problem, it needs to be recharged. (commercially if you need it done fast). Hopefully you have not worn down one or more cells, so it can be used again. So in the worst case, you might need a new battery. :(

    Hopefully you replaced it with an oem battery. Replacement with aftermarket products can be a bit dicey. The reserve power requirements are greater with a TDI than with a gasser is the real reason. For example, every time you "start" the car you are heating 4 glow plugs. This of course uses even more power in winter.

    The upshot: get and use a "Battery Tender" or similar type product. Use it on some scheduled basis. There are indicator lamps for: 1. needs continued charging 2. 80% 3. to 100%. It has a built in limiter chip, so the battery does not get overcharged. 30-150 dollars, depending on models and capacities.

    The same happened to me at a tad less than the third year mark. The car was/is garaged and sees no "real" winters and the drives tend to be very long. I employ a Garmin GPS and radar detector, sometimes both at once. Barring that essentially even with an oem battery, the alternator does not even bring the charge of the battery back to 80% let alone 100%. LONG drives don't even get it back to 80%. Combine that with how YOU specifically drive, use the battery, environmental conditions, your accessory use, 24/7 daylight running lamps, and/or the fact that almost EVERYTHING uses battery power, it is really just a matter of time before the battery goes down to "weak"(and can not start) without a "Battery Tender" type product.
  • bora1bora1 Posts: 42
    Hi trueog,

    I had a similar problem with my car (2002 Jetta 1.8T). This was caused by a broken hose (whose name I forget). The dealer should be able to diagnose it for you.
  • bora1bora1 Posts: 42

    It was a problem with the breather hose.
  • bora1bora1 Posts: 42

    I hope all went well with your car, and the dealer was able to resolve your problem. Please let me know. Thx.
  • bora1bora1 Posts: 42
    I just realized that you were able to resolve the problem with your car. Sorry you were not able to receive help sooner. Some of us do not log on to the forum frequently, but that's beside the point; There was no need to insult the people in this forum. That was unfair and uncalled for. All the best with your car.
  • Even though the ignition coil had a good spark it was found to be bad by the Twin Imports shop. Cost to diagnose and repair $244.
    $70 per hour and part.

    Wow what a blessing.

    I guess it pays to make sure you take your VW to someone who knows VWs.

    Thanks for all your help.
  • I recently bought a 1996 Jetta Trek and it seems to have an intermittent starting problem. It has a kill switch and sometimes it starts and other times it does not. I think that it may be an electical problem since when it does start it does not appear to have any problems starting. Also, the drivers side door lock also works intermittently. Sometimes it will allow the key to turn and unlock the doors, other times it does not and I have to go to the passanger side to unlock all doors.

    Any ideas are appreciated!
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