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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • fateluvfateluv Posts: 2
    Thank you! I called the dealership and gave them my VIN number and my car does have a "recall" on it. Something to do with the breaks for sure. I dropped it off this morning for them to fix it. Thanks again for your help and I would suggest that everyone that owns one of these cars should go get that checked out. I didnt even get a letter about it, had to find out the hard way.

  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    Yes I have read the "recall" letters are slated to go out in April 2007.
  • My son has a 2003 Jetta GL sedan with manual transmission. Twice, while driving on the freeway, he noticed that the car was not accelerating. Soon after the engine died. Once on the side of the road, the car started right up. He was able to drive off and the car seemed to be fine. We took the car to two VW dealers and neither one could find anything wrong. There was nothing in the onboard computer to indiciate that there was a problem. Has anyone heard of this problem? What could be causing it? Any help would be appreciated.
  • bhyogybhyogy Posts: 1
    Hi, this is an old forum that I am replying to and I hate to bug you, you probably do not have the car anymore, but I have a 99 Jetta also with this same problem. It started right after I replaced the battery myself this past cold winter day. I found out later that when you replace a battery in these buggies you should have a power source hooked to the cars electrical system while you change the battery. I was wondering if you had to go to the VW dealer and have them reset the puter or something. thanks Bryan
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The only thing that *might* be affected by replacing the battery would be the radio. If the radio is affected, it will say the word "safe" on the disply.

    It is a simple matter of entering the "security code" to get the radio working again. (It is assumed that you *have* the security code somwhere...)

    Are you seeing somthing besides a problem with the radio?
  • Hi,

    I have a 2000 VW Jetta w/ a V-6 and for the past couple of months my car has been acting strangely. One night while driving to pick up some food I went to start off and I pressed my gas pedal and it basically went all the way to the floor without accelerating hardly at all, and then would sputter to change gears (it's automatic). We had it checked because the check engine light was on and they told us that there was we changed the spark plugs. For about a week my check engine light was off but it still felt like it was misfiring. We took it back and it said there were 3 misfires again, so we changed the spark plug wires and it seemed MUCH better. Well the next day I took it and had the oil changed and the next day when I drove to a nearby town by interstate it was having trouble accelerating and my check engine light came back on. Now whenever I stop my engine will shake, but it's ONLY when I stop and sit, you can feel the car shake the entire time, then when I start off the shaking ceases but it still will not accelerate well. When I get around 40-45 mph the engine misfires, as well as around 65-70 mph. Any acceleration is hard and going up hill is a nightmare and the engine misfires and the check engine light begins flashing. After spending $200 + dollars on new spark plugs and wires, I'm at a loss at what to do with it. If any one knows what could be causing the problem please let me know! I have a vacation planned in like 3 weeks and I don't want to have to worry about my car breaking down.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    From your description, it sounds as if you are on the right track. After 7 years, I am sure the sparkplugs and wires were in need of replacing anyway.

    The part of the ignition system you have NOT dealt with is the coil. An easy way to isolate it as a problem is to spritz some water on it while idling. (an old windex bottle works great for this task) If the coil is "leaking" the high-voltage, the engine will start to misfire when coil is spritzed.

    BTW: $200 for 6 sparkplugs and wires seems expensive... are you sure that is all that was done?
  • I had Autozone run the codes on it again (third time) and it's codes PO300, 301, 306. Any suggestions? Should I take it to the VW dealership?

    and as for the price, my brother-in-law installed all the stuff and my spark plug wires were $100, the spark plugs, I'm not really sure because my sister bought them, I just estimated that it'd be around the same as the spark plug wires.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I looked up all the codes you mentioned.

    I think I already said that the ignition coil is your next thing to check (all the sparkplug wires are plugged into it) Test it by spritzing water on it while engine is idling. If engine stumbles at all... the coil is suspect.

    Personally, I would REMOVE the ignition coil and wash it in hot-soapy water. (just like doing the dishes) Use an old toothbrush to scrub it. Somtimes, a layer of grime on it could cause the symptoms you are complaining about. (Worth saving $300 for a new coil)

    IMPORTANT: Make certain that you write down where all the sparkpug wires plug in BEFORE you remove them.
  • Upon starting my 98 Jetta TDI, especially when it's cold, my headlights, wipers, and heater fan fail to work. The brake light is also dimly lit. After the car warms up and/or I hit a bump, they'll all fire back on again; but that's not to say that they'll all fail again as well. Restarting the car also helps 80% of the time.

    I am assuming I have a short somewhere... but where? Hopefully the fact that all the following are either on or off together will lead someone to a schematic that has all in line or something...

  • My Owner's Manual says that if the check engine light blinks (which it does while accelerating, but then stops after it hits the gear) that it could be a damaged catalytic converter. I haven't checked the coil yet, but it does stumble while idle without anything, while I sit at a red light you can see the RPM going back and forth and the engine stumbling. So if it's not the coil, could it be the cat converter?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is extremely unlikely that the catalytic converter could cause misfires. You really need to trust what the codes are telling you and follow through.

    Another reason that I am suggesting that you look at the coil is because you mentiond that the problem got better for awhile AFTER the ignition wires were replaced.... Since all the wires plug into the ignition coil, it may have been 'disturbed' enough to make it work for awhile.

    The blinking CEL is most likely due to the misfiring. If the sparkplugs misfire, that means RAW FUEL (unburned) will be pushed into catalytic converter. Eventually, if you keep driving while it is misfiring, you will destroy the catalytic converter. This is because the raw fuel can cause it to overheat. (the fuel burns in the converter!)
  • mwebb11mwebb11 Posts: 13
    I agree, I would definitely start working on your coil and distributor... the sputtering and missfires definitely sound like a problem with these. I don't know about a 2000 jetta, but my 98 had problems the same. Took it to a car wash, got the distributor cap wet (damn undercarriage cycle) and when i pulled out and stopped at a stop sign on a hill, my car sputtered then stalled. I removed the cap, unplugged the plugs 1 AT A TIME , marking there locations, and let it dry out. If you try to run a car with a malfunctioning coil/dist, you will destroy your CC. If one part of the coil is malfunctioning, this means you are running without a cylinder functioning properly, injecting gas with no burn One question... when you are trying to drive at high speeds, are your RPM at an abnormal level... are they higher than they should be. One big sign a cylinder is not working
  • yes, my RPMs are higher than they should be and are all over the place even when I stop. I took it in today and he said they'll probably have to put in a new set of spark plug wires because a couple of them are shot. Basically I was running on 4 cylinders in a 6 cylinder, not good. Thankfully I have a warranty on those wires considering the fact that I JUST got them. Also, my ignition coil, but he's trying to find one that's less than $500. So my car is in the shop, and he's calling me tomorrow to let me know the prices. This would also explain the extreme amounts of gas I've been burning. So anyone have an estimate price for all this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    "This would also explain the extreme amounts of gas I've been burning."

    Correction... you have not been "burning" the fuel... is has gone thru the engine UNburned.

    BTW: Ignition coil for your car are about $300 for BRAND NEW ones from:

    Again, I would personally try to get the original coil back into working order before spending any mony on a replacement. There are several options from this perspective.
  • I have a 2001 Jetta and I am experiencing the same thing. 2 months ago my check engine light starting going on and off and would stay off for weeks at a time. It then started sputtering out. The RPM goes back and forth and just this morning it stalled 4 times until I could keep it running. I have already replaced the coil pack which was advised per the check engine light. After 4 weeks with no engine light it just re-appeared last week. ERR! Is this something that is covered under the powertrain? I have that 100k mile powertrain warranty.
  • yeah, my estimated cost was $1300. Basically, I'm saying no, and ordering the parts myself, but I mean he's giving me $395 for spark plug wires, isn't that a little high?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I thought you said that you JUST REPLACED the sparkplug wires while troubleshooting (shotgunning) this problem?? Why do you need to replace them again so soon?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (JenHack63) Please do not suggest your problem is the "same thing" as somone elses... It is very bad assumption to start with that premise. (and usually wrong)

    1st of all - Which engine do you have?
    2nd - What are the codes ?

    Once we have those details, we may be able to guide you to a satisfactory repair.

    As to your question about being covered by some warantee... You would have to ask the folks that are providing the warantee.
  • lappa411lappa411 Posts: 3
    just to let everyone know that the problem with the starting was that the ERG throttle body had to be replaced,for it was full of a black substance.enough to keep the butterfly from opening and letting air through.
  • I bought a GLS 03` 2.0 a month ago. After putting 1K on it I noticed that the oil was only half way up on the dipstick. I went to the VW dealer and he said that it is acceptable to burn 1Q of oil every thousand mi. Is this right and if so where is this oil going? I park it in a garage and the area under the car is oil free. I have never heard of a car with 40K miles on it burning ANY oil let alone this amount. If anyone knows anything I would love to be informed. Thanks.
  • cacorbcacorb Posts: 6
    I'd be interested in a response to this too. I have a 2002 Jetta and burn oil incredibly fast with no leakage noted in my garage.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    I have no direct experiences with late model VW gasser engines. In contrast, I have 90,000 miles on a TDI or turbo diesel. With 20,000-25,000 mile oil change intervals, the oil consumption has been a regular 1/4 to 1/2 quart
    (8-16 oz) per 20,000 miles. So with 4.5, 20,000 mile intervals, the TOTAL oil consumption in 90,000 miles ranges from 1.125 to 2.25 qts. The nexus here with the gasser turbos is the (TDI)turbo.

    VW engines have always had a reputation for consuming oil. As a result, it makes sense to check the oil levels at regular intervals. Another consequence, it makes almost no sense to do a LESS than 10,000 mile OCI. In effect if the consumption is 1000 miles per quart (or whatever), you have put up to 10 new (more or less of course) quarts during the 10,000 miles OCI. Indeed that is more than the 4.5 quarts or so that IS normally changed at 10,000 miles.
  • campoutcampout Posts: 22
    Hello to everyone on the list. We own a '03 Jetta Wagon GLS with the 1.8 turbo. I don't have a service manual and need to replace the cabin filter. My question is does it install under the dash somewhere or is it under the hood? Any info would be appreciated. Thanking in advance.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    To replace the cabin filter, THIS LINK may help.

    Here is a movie that shows how to replace cabin filter.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Some of the 2.0 engines consume oil. This can often be traced to improperly breaking in the engine when new. (The cylinder walls glazed before the rings seated)

    My daughters 2001 Gulf also consumes oil the same way. She just carries a case of cheap oil in the trunk. My other daughter has a 2001 NewBeetle with 2.0 engine and it consumes NO oil at all.

    Keep in mind this is NOT a problem per se, as long as you do not allow the oil to get low enough to cause damage, this is just an inconvenience.

    "Where does it go" you ask? The answer is "out the tailpipe".
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    Sometimes if the steering wheel is locked at hard right or left I find that I can't shift the car out of park unless I remove the steering wheel from this locked position. I have found this to happen on other cars than my 04 Jetta also.
  • donnaldonnal Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Jetta. Last week I brought the car in for service - new front brakes (pads/rotars) and tire rotation. The next day while drivng the brakes locked up causing tires to overhead/smoke coming out of tire area. Brought it back to dealership. At first they said they could not find a problem but after driving it on the highway, it locked up for them. They uninstalled and reinstalled the new brake pads/rotars and said it was fixed. Within 2 days brakes starting locking up again. What would cause the brakes to lock?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have replaced disk brakes many times over the years. (VWs as well as Asian and Domestic)

    In my experience, there are several possibilities for the brakes to "drag" and cause overheating just after replacing the pads.

    1) Air bubbles in the hydrolic system
    2) Sticking calipers
    3) Pad sliding-surfaces not properly filed smooth and lubed.

    The "dragging" brakes very often show up just after replacing the pads.

    If they "opened up" the hydrolic system, there is the possibility that some air got into the system. Air in the system is usually accompined with "spongy" pedal feel.

    Another reason is because the calipers have to be pushed in to make room for the new pads. This forces the caliper pistons to be "working" in an area in which they were not previously.

    Also, the sliding surfaces where the pads ride against can get "pitted" with use. If this pitting is not filed smooth, then the new pads can bind up. (thus not release)

    You may also wish to ask about your brakes in the forum titled "Stop here! Let's talk about brakes"
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    When your brakes lock up, try sticking your foot under your brake pedal and lift up on it to see if that corrects the problem. I have seen posts where a bad brake booster unit can cause this. I have also seen where an impropperly adjusted brake light switch has caused this (did they change you brake light switch as part of a recall?).
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