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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is good to hear that you were able to get your vehicle back in shape. I too, have used SeaFoam on specific problems to clean things up.

    As for your engine-temparture sensor... these are KNOWN to go bad on your model year. If yours is not GREEN in color... it would be wise to replace it. A faulty engine temp. sensor can fool the onboard computer into thinking the engine is never warmed up. This -in turn- will make your MPG go down due to excessive fuel being injected.

    Each of my 2 daughers have 2001 VWs and BOTH of their (black in color) engine-temp. sensors went bad. I replaced with the newer GREEN one wich is only about $14 including O-ring.
  • i have faced the exact problem with my 2000 jetta.
    to add to what you have mentioned, this noise does not occur when the engine is cold. This noise starts after the car has been driven for about half a mile.
    The noise is similar to one of those 50 c.c. mopeds here in Hawaii.

    I am planning to take it to the local Midas shop this weekend.
  • Hey I was wondering if anyone could help me out. I just bought a 2002 Jetta with about 56k miles on it about 2 weeks ago. While im driving the car the radio backlight and the interior lights will flash on and off every oo.. minute or so.. also while the car is off the headlights will flash on and off maybe once every few hours. What could this possably be??
    Another thing is when i shift the car from park to drive the car jerks before it will drive.. also everynow and then when im driving on the highway and have to slow down alot then speed back up.. when it shifts to go faster again it jerks. could this be the transmission going? or do all jettas do this? Please Help :confuse:
    Thanks Liz
  • I recently had that problem with my 1999 (going from park to drive) i had the transmission fluid changed, with new filter and new pan gasket, cost me about $200 Canadian. and i notice that shifts are alot smoother even when i am gunning it on the highway, and i dont get that jerk anymore, i still let it sit for a second before i hit the gas, just to make sure the gear is set in place (its old :-P)

    don't believe what VW says, they say you never have to replace it (they say its a "Lifetime Fluid") LIES! get it changed and i am sure you'll notice a difference.
  • the problem i have is whenever i am on the gas, its not a very loud noise, just enough to be noticable, i am going to have a muffler install later this week, i am most likely going to go to speedy or midas to have it done, i will get them to check my heat shield, some one told me that they had the exact same problem, and that they just took thier shield off, i just don't know if they took it off over the cat though, that doesnt seem like the greatest idea does it?
  • With my 97, I only had a shield over the cat. The piece I took off was just sorta like the outer layer on the muffler/resonator. For a bad analogy, I was like taking the outer layer off an onion.
  • I agree you should have you fluid level checked. Mine was slipping in first and sometimes second gear, only when it was cold. I brought it to VW, having just moved to a new area, and told them I thought it was low. They said whatever, you don't ever have to replace it. They proceeded to tell me that I needed a new throttle body, fuel injectors, and ECU. I left as quickly as possible. My wife happened to find an AAMCO where the owner had a Jetta. He checked it out, said it was low if fluid, added some, and then didn't charge me a dime. Problem solved.
  • We have a 96 jetta gl I have been noticing when you let off the gas it starts whining while still in gear. This is a manual trany. Where do you check the gearbox fluid level and where do you fill it up? Is it the giant inverted nut behind the clutch cable?
  • Hi, Just acquired this vehicle with a no start issue, initial testing showed electronic p/up inside dist.not tripping signal to fire secondary ignition, replaced dist, timing was set and road tested, vehicle ran for approx 10 min and quite,tested and found repeating problem,grounds circutes were tested, new ignition switch ,coil, digifant 2 computer and 3 other distr. only to have same problem. Where should we look. Can someone help it is getting costly.
  • I have a 1998 Jetta with about 80,000 miles and today I parked the car during lunch today and came out after work and it just won't start. There was no warning at all since it had started up twice that day with not problem at all. All electrical equipment works fine (lights come on, car clock is on, radio works) when I don't do anything, except for the keyless entry where the lock will barely get enough power to lock or unlock. However the automatic locks work fine when I press on them while in the car. I will turn the key to the first position and the entire electrical system will go dead (clock turns off and nothing works) with the exception for the air bag sign that will sometimes light up on the dashboard. If I turn the key to the crank position the entire dashboard will light up but will not crank and nothing will happen (Everything will light up and will sound like it should in the first position). Every time I turn the key the system resets itself (clock goes back to 0 and so does the mileage). If I try the horn that does not work either. I had a problem with an emissions test about 4 weeks that I didn't get resolved even though a technician spent 5 hours looking for the problem but otherwise have had no problems at all. The only thing that isn't factory is the CD player but that was installed 4 years ago. What should I do?
  • ks82ks82 Posts: 2
    My 2004 Jetta 1.8T needs a 40k service. I got a price of $650 from two dealerships here in Maryland. Is that normal for a dealership?

  • I have a 1997 Jetta.

    You might need a new ignition switch. But before going that route, perform the following troubleshooting steps:

    Check the battery and look for the small circular sight-eye indicator. If it is any color other than green, the battery needs to be replaced.

    If the battery checks good, the next step is to check the battery terminals for excessive corrosion (usually a white or gray powder). If corrosion is present, the terminals need to be cleaned.

    If the terminals are clean, check the condition of the battery cables for excessive corrosion, fraying, breaks, or any signs of damage.

    If all of the above checks good, then the likely culprit is the ignition switch.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I just checked the VW-recommended 40K mile service items ( ) and there is nothing special about the 40K service. (no wheel alignment or other expensive items) It is essentually an oil and filter change, sparkplugs and inspection.

    You should NEVER just tell a dealership to "perform the xxxx service" you are essentually asking them to take your money.

    You should ask them to ITEMIZE what they will be doing for this 40K service and compare that against what your owners-manual says. I would bet that they are proposing to do a LOT more than what is called for by Volkswagen.

    BTW: I also pulled out my "Jetta" file to check and I was charged about $300.... and I have a DIESEL! (my oil and fuel filter is more expensive than yours is.. but I dont have sparkplugs)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    There is also air filter, cabin filter, tire rotation listed at 40K...but yeah, $650 must be including a lot of extras. I would think $300 to 400 would be enough to cover all the required stuff.

    Oh wait...they also list lubing door hinges, maybe that adds a couple hundred to the cost ;) .
  • I am new to Edmunds so I had a difficult time finding anyone with a similiar problem. A couple of months ago I changed the oil in my wifes 2001 Jetta. I started it up and started driving it down the street when, at first starting out,it lurched forward. It only happens when I first start to accelerate, after that it is fine. Also, it does not happen all the time. I took it to a certified VW mechanic and did not know what may have caused it. He did hook it up to his computer. It is still happening months later, does not seem like a terribly huge problem, but one that worries me a bit because obviously something is wrong.
    HELP ME!!!!! Please!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Which engine do you have? (VW offers 4 different engines so we need to narrow things down a bit)
  • guys, what should i be getting to the tank on my 1999 Jetta Automatic?

    recently i cant even break 250 miles before hitting the reserve. GOD NO!!!!
    i've recently changed my spark plugs i put in"Bosch Platinum +2" i am running a K&N Filter in the Stock Air Box, its fairly new, only a couple of months. I previously put in a bottle of STP Octane Booster, but did nothing (i was told the STP would help clean the fuel lines)
    My oil is 10w-30, would that have something to do with it? (running too thick an oil???)
    My tires are the correct PSI, i check them every time i fill up.
    thats all i can think of, am i missing anything that could be causing me to get such crap mileage??? i don't drive like a maniac , i am easy on my accelerations and i don't carry extra weight in the car

    WTF mates???

    any help is greatly appreciated

    thank you
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    GET RID OF THAT K&N (oiled guaze) AIRFILTER PRONTO!! The oil from oiled-guaze airfilters have been known to contaminate the MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor. Additionally, oiled-guaze airfilters filter WORSE than the stock paper filtler leading to more engine wear.

    Also make certain your snowscreen is clean.

    Also you are running an oil which is too thick for that engine. (VW specifies 5w30 for the 2.0 engine)

    Also you may want to assume that your MAF is now contaminated... which would account for such poor MPG.

    BTW... I get between 50 and 56 MPG on my Jetta TDI. (up to 830 miles per tank)
  • joker55joker55 Posts: 49
    if it was my MAF, wouldn't that throw a code. if the MAF is causing the engine to burn too rich or too lean wouldn't my O2 sensor trip as well?

    my snowscreen ceases to exist, i checked awhile ago and found that it was ripped, so i just cut it out

    i am due for an oil change very soon, so i will change it 5w30 then, i will see how that works out for me and if no change i will assume the worst and have my MAF inspected/checked.

    thanks again for your help bpeebles, you have been a great help to me in the past as well.

    p.s I also have a rattle/vibration noise i find i hear it most when i am around 2500-3000 rpm traveling at about 15-20 mph, it doesn't happen all the time, its just really annoying when it does :mad: . if i had to say where it was coming from i would have to say around the front portion of the car, probley just ahead of the cat

    thanks again bpeebles, i owe you a beer ;)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Good luck with improving your MPG. There have been cases wheras a MAF is not far enough out of spec to throw a code... but still affects perfomance (MPG).

    If you shop around for a MAF, you can often find a reasonably priced one. You can either replace the entire housing...or just the plug-in MAF element. (requires specaial tool to fit the screws)

    I am lucky that with several VWs in the family, I have swapped MAFs between vehicles to isolate a bad one. (I also have VagCom 8-)

    As for that rattle, it sure sounds as if one of the heatshields on the exhaust may be buzzing. Somtimes, a small stone gets up in the heatshield and vibrates at specific RPMs.

    In the past, I have fixed heatshield vibrations by just putting a large screw-type radiator-hoseclamp around the whole thing and snug it gently. (dont squash it down)
  • Could someone please assist?? I purchased a 2003 for my daughter. Has 40K miles. She came home from school a few days ago and said her radio whent "dead" and as she was coming in the drive, it seemed to lose power. I cranked it after about 30 minutes had passed and it cranked, radio played, no warning lights, all seemed good. Strange but OK.

    Later she got stranded about a mile from home. Again, radio turned off and it would not respond to throttle. I got to the car and it cranked, but would only run for a few seconds before the rpm guage would not move, and the engine would not respond to throttle. After the third crank, it would just click with ignition and the guages would go nuts. I jumped the battery (out of desperation and/or ignorance!) and got it going enough to get home.

    Could this be as simple as a battery? And if so, are there any special requirements to changed this thing. Much to many wires coming from the battery which makes me cautions to just disconnect/reconnect like any other battery.

    Much thanks to any assistance.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Replacing battery is straightforward... just 2 wires on battery. It is advisable to install the battey which goes in the TDI (diesel) since it costs the same but has more power.

    BEWARE... Disconecting the battery may make the radio think it is being stolen and it responds by going into SAFE mode. Make certain you have the code to reprogram the radio incase it goes into SAFE mode. (The code was given to the original owner and is often written in the owners manual)
  • Much thanks, bpeebles. Just concerned because there is a covered terminal block that resides on top of battery that has terminal connections with one ground and about five voltage lines going to parts unknown. Was hopeful that it wasn't anything to be concerned with as there is no reference in any of the documentation. Thanks for the head's up on the radio......BIG issue for a 16 yr old girl!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,375
    You might want to have alternator output checked as well. If you replace the battery, that could well be the problem you described, or it could only be the symptom and not the disease.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I would not suggest that you buy a Volkswagen especially between the years 2000-2007. They are poorly built (I heard between the years of 2000-2007 are built in Mexico not Germany) because you're going to end up spending a lot money on repairs, costly engine and transmission problems. Engine light that never goes out and etc. I have done my research and I tell you lie - take my advice stay away from the Volkswagen Jetta! WARNING! WARNING! I wish someone who have warned me.
  • Throttle Sensor had that replaced - $1700. Engine light still on, with the air bag light, brake light (had new brakes installed) light still on and etc. My car is now stalling won't drive unless warm up for 20-25 minutes, granted it has a lot of miles on it, Year 2000, Volkswagen, Jetta that gets tuned up regularly and oil changes regularly like I am suppose to. It has 117,000 miles on it. So what!
  • Wow!! You are really scaring me!! I have been considering purchasing a new car and getting rid of my [non-permissible content removed] suv that sucks up the gas. I was really waiting for the new jetta tdi in the spring, but have been a bit concerned about reliability per consumer reports and jd power & assoc.
    Any others hate the jetta???
  • I bought a 2005 1/2 (newer model) Jetta about a month ago and just within the past week it decideds it wont chirp after I lock it. So I dont know if this means its not setting the alarm or what. I hit the lock button twice and normally it chirps to let me know its armed, but i doesnt. Any ideas on whats going on?
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    Consumer Reports rated the reliability of the Jetta 2.0 turbo and TDI as average, and the 2.5L as below average in reliability. That translates to a problem rate of 3% or less for the turbo and TDI. Now, if the one you buy is like 97% or more of all Jetta TDI's, you'll be happy. If you buy one that is like 3% or less of all Jetta TDI's, you'll probably be unhappy. Or, you could buy a Honda or Toyota and cut your risk of problems to less than 2%. You can play the odds regarding reliability, or you can buy something that you enjoy driving. I have a Jetta TDI that falls into the 97% or more group. :)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I think it can be programmed to not chirp (check the manual)...maybe that was inadvertently changed somehow???

    If it is a VE (like ours) you may not be able to change it back yourself because those do not have the "multi-function computer interface" (or whatever they called it). For VE might have to have the dealer do it for you.

    The remote is locking the car, right?
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