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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    A quick search gave me this photo

    Although it shows a modified sensor... it may be enough to show you where the 3 sensors are located. Each sensor is held in with a plastic clip. (seen above each sensor)

    Depending on which 2.8L you have here is another photo of alternate location. (Still, held in with plastic clip and O-ring seal)
  • jlkiljlkil Posts: 18
    I've owned this car since July '02. While under warranty, I had a number of issues, including one that never got fixed, a noise in the rear end that sounds like a bad shock. Anyway, this year I have spent about $3000 for: water pump, thermostat, timing belt, A/C modules and fans, and 2 CV boots. The brake lights have gone out twice and they got replaced during a routine service because of a recall.
    On the positive side, this car is a blast to drive. It handles extremely well and the turbo engine is sweet :shades: ;cruise at over 80mph and get 28-30 MPG. I have never waxed this car, yet water stands on it as though I just finished a wax job. The silver color is just as shiny as it was on day 1. Also, the dealer even loaned me a new jetta last time I got the CV boot fixed.
    I also have an '07 jetta wolfsburg for my wife.. :)
  • joker55joker55 Posts: 49
    how did you clean your MAF, i am curious cause i think i might have a problem with mine

  • Hey folks,
    I am interested in connecting with someone who is very familiar with the Teves ABS unit used on the 1990-92 VW products. Specifically, the accumulator mounted on the abs pump. I believe this unit is the same as the one used in 1988-1989 Merkur Scorpios.
    If you have information regarding this or even parts, can you please contact me at
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Typically, the built-in cleaning cycle of the MAF is sufficent to keep it clean. If your airfilter has been leaking dirty air.. or you have used one of those "oiled-guaze" filters... then you may need to clean MAF manually.

    Take a large Ziploc bag and place the MAF sensor in it. (JUST THE MAF.... not the entire housing) Pour enough Isopropyl alcohol into the bag to completely cover the MAF sensor. Gently shake the bag to allow the alcohol to pass through the sensor. Take the MAF sensor out and let the excess alcohol drip off. Set the MAF sensor down on a paper towel to drip/air dry. You may want to use the compressed air spray to blow dry parts such as the connector port. Allow the MAF sensor to dry completely before reinstalling it in the car. This will take between 1-5 hours. Then reinstall.

    Here is a link with photos

    Here is a product for cleaning MAF

    Some people have reported that using "Brake Clean" has worked for them.

    The important part is to allow MAF sensor to completely dry before use. (Or it may burn up due to the built-in cleaning cycle)

    Also, here is how to diagnose a bad MAF
  • I am installing new v belts on my 89 jetta gas engine. It seems like the idler pulley assy is too close to the lower pully and they may bind up or touch when the engine is running. Could the lower pulley be reversed and reinstalled to change the spacing? This was all part of getting the timing belt changed out. Thanks!! ALAN
  • Greetings!

    My 2.0L '00 Jetta sometimes won't start. It turns over but won't catch. Giving it gas doesn't help but does rev the engine way up once the engine does eventually start. However, this problem doesn't happen every time I start the thing. It only seems to happen once or twice a week. Sometimes I'll drive it and try it again a couple hours later and struggle to get it started. Then, in another couple hours, will try again and the car will start right away. I just had the oil changed and went over 100,000 miles but haven't had any major problems to speak of in the past with this vehicle (keeping my fingers crossed.)

    Also, if anyone knows a good VW mechanic in/near Hollywood in Los Angeles, please let me know. If (when) I need to take my car in, I'd like to have a friendly, fair-priced place in mind.

  • It could be you have a cracked coil that would need to be replaced. I would also look at your cap and rotor.
  • microjmicroj Posts: 10
    There is a strange odor in my 98 Jetta GLS 5 speed manual transmission.
    The only way I can describe it is like boiled cabbage..almost a garbage-y smell.A bit like a stove w/ a gas leak.
    It happens usually when I first start the car in the morning and pull out of the garage.Also If I have been at a redlight and start up.,it seems just to happen in lower gears and reverse.
    I just bought the car used .It had one owner and 21,000 miles on it(and service records to prove it!) .Also a new clutch was installed before I bought it.Other than that it runs great .it's practically new.
    Might the smell be be gear oil ?
    Any ideas?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You may be correct in that this is just some oil-residue burning off of somthing. Perhaps even the clutch plates since you mention it seems to be more prevalant when you start off from a stop.

    If it keeps up, you may want to have somone to look at it.

    BTW: Why do you think it is from the xmission?
  • i need to replace my power steering belt in my 2000 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8 Turbo. can anyone let me know how to do this? i have already bought the part
  • microjmicroj Posts: 10
    I was just describing what type of transmission ( 5 speed manual) in the first sentence. I see how that could seem I thought the smell was coming from the transmission. I have no idea where the smell is coming from.The only lead I had about the gear oil idea, was I know it can have a verry strong "rotting" odor.Since the car has so few miles but is close to 10 years old,maybe the previous owner never changed it from the day he bought the car back in '98.That would give the oil a long time to get smelly. I put some paper under the car last night and will check it and see if there is any gear oil leaking on to it.I hope not.I will take it to my mechanic if this persits.
    Any other suggestions are apreciated.Other than that, the car is in immaculate shape.I've had to get it saftey inspected,and emission tested as well as a rustproofing.All the garage owners that have driven it cannot believe how well the gears change and how the car and the engine looks and handles.It was obviously cared for.
    Thanks for your help.
  • I have an '02 VW Jetta that started smelling extremely bad a few months ago. I can't have any passengers because the smell makes everyone sick. The smell stays on you until you shower. Do you have a smelly VW? Why should VW be allowed to sell us cars that drive so good then are worth next to nothing before the first set of tires wear out!! We need to warn others who might be considering a VW purchase. I have already been the dealer route as well as other repair shops & it seems to be common knowledge (except to Volkswagen) that VWs smell like melted crayons. As a trade-in, I can't even get half of what Edmunds.ocm says my Jetta is worth. Maybe Edmunds needs to re-evaluate the Volkswagens. We have put up the melted crayons smell long enough. Does anyone with the EPA or any division of our government even test the toxic levels of the materials & glues that car makers use inside our cars? We shouldn't let children be exposed to Volkswagens until someone can verify that they are not emitting poisonous fumes and vapors. Did someone test the materials & glues after they have been exposed to South Texas heat for several years??? Wake up people!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Gear oil with the "GL5" designation has a lot of sulfer in it as an additive. The sulfer is very stinkey smell but also makes the gear-oil very good at protecting from metal-to-metal contact. Sulfer is an Extreme Pressure (EP) additive. GL5 oil is intended for differentials and xfer cases... NOT transmissions.

    I am telling you all of this because your comments seem to suggest that gear oil gets smelly with age. This is simply not true.

    HOWEVER: Most manual transmissions should NEVER have GL5 oil in them because the additives tend to corrode the bronze bushings used as synchronizers. Lets hope your manual xmission does NOT have GL5 oil in it. (Only use VW-approved gear-oil in the xmission!)

    Also NEVER-EVER apply rustproofing to a Volkswagen. Unlike most other automobiles, VWs come from the factory with galvonized steel bodies and factory-rustproofing. That is why VWs have 12Year/unlimited-milage rust warantee from the factory!! (applying rustproofing voids this factory warantee because it may actually PROMOTE corrosion)

    If you truly had rustproofing applied, that may be the source of your odor. (may be some on the exhaust pipes.)
  • Recently replaced the battery on 2003 2.0L Jetta due to strange stalling, dash lights/guages going crazy, etc. Car ran good for a couple of weeks. Now, periodically, the ABS light will come on, radion will go off, headlights get dim if on, and the car will lose power. Stop, turn off the ignition, restart, and all goes well for another week or so. Then same thing. Can't find any other correlating data. Took it to a local mechanic (retired VW dealer mechanic) who found no faults, no computer codes, and nothing to indicate there was a problem. He wouldn't let me pay him.

    I fear if I take it back in without the actual condition being present, it will be the same "no problem" diagnisis.

    Has anyone seen this at all that can guide me on a course of action?? Can't have my 16 yr old girl wondering when its going to stop and I certainly don't want her stranded!! Much thanks!
  • microjmicroj Posts: 10
    So, any suggestions as to what it might be if not gear oil? It is definately not from rustproofing.
    It really is'nt an oily smell.More like something organic that is rotting..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Check for a loose or corroded ground cable on your battery. Clean the terminals thoroughly. Check also for a loose alternator belt.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Much appreciation Mr Shiftright. Terminals look good as I cleaned them when I changed the battery. But I'll give the belt a look. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Well okay then good job, now check the OTHER end of the ground cable, where it actually grounds to metal.

    The symptom of the lights going dim definitely point to an alternator/battery issue.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Hello, my manual tilting mechanism didnt work, instead of giving it to the shop to fix it I decided to try my luck and accidently ripped of entire handle from my jetta 99 driver's seat. I was just wondering if there is any way to fix it or perhaps to tilt it without the adjustment knob to my desire. Also, If anyone had the same problem? How much was it to fix it?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Is there maybe a metal shaft still there that you could clamp some locking (vice-grip) pliers on?
  • There is still a piece of shaft but I think the problem lies in that shaft. The way I ripped the part off is because the piece of that shaft broke by blocking/locking my tilt adjustment.

    Thanks for a quick response
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I see, so the mechanism itself is broken.

    I wonder how difficult it would be to find a used seat from a junk yard and install it and how that would compare to the cost of fixing, if it is fixable?

    For fixing or having it replaced, I'd check with a body shop. They generally have much lower labor rates than dealer or independant mechanics and I would think that they would be able to do this sort of work and might even locate a used seat for you, if you want them to.
  • Hello. Thanks for such a great site. It took awhile to find you guys and gals but now you're here to stay. I have a 97 jetta thats front seats cushions are starting to sag. It's the raised part of the bucket seat when exiting the doors that seem to have collapsed. Can anyone tell me how and if I can fix it?

  • isaeisae Posts: 2
    I also have a 2003 Jetta Turbo with the same problems. My daughter says it is worse when she has the a/c on. I took it to the dealership and got three different diagnosis. First time said to do a fuel ignition flush (which I didn't do). Second time it was the master relay switch (which they replaced) Third time it was the coolant fans (which they replaced). Here it is 2 months later and the problem has started occuring again. Have you had any luck with your vehicle?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    An upholstery shop can fix that. There might be broken springs or webbing or merely deformed foam. One would have to take the seat out and peel off the skin to see what's what. Figure $250 repair.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I would bet the serpentene belt is slipping. I regularly remove the serp belt and wash it in hot-soapy dish detergent. I also degrease all the pullys with IPA (Isopropal alcohal) on a rag.

    The idea is to make everything squeeky-clean so the rubber of the belt has good "traction" on the pullies.

    It is simple to remove/replace the serp. belt and the 20 minutes is well spent. (I may do this about once a year... around the same time I clean my snow-screen)
  • hello. new to this site, but happy i'm not alone! i am currently out of town when my temp light came on. we added more water as done in past when this light came on. no luck, car overheated & we had it towed to shop. they say it is the water tube. kinda vague, huh! anyway- it connects to the water pump & goes down the engine front. at least that is how it was described to me. my car is a 2000 vw jetta vr6 manual trans. they will be replacing this piece along with a couple of hoses & clips. say this will most likely be the fix but may need to replace pump as well. this a common problem with jetta's? had a 03 that had water pump go out & seemed similar to this problem. any suggestions? need help! stranded at the mercy of strangers! :cry:
  • Hey guys I have a 97 2.0 litre jetta. It just started leaking oil from the part that the oil filter threads in to - Very badly. It looks like an easy fix - probably a gasket, or possibly and O ring. Does anyone know what this gasket is called or what the heck the part is called that the filter is screwed in to? I have had no luck finding this part.... Thanks
  • I have a 1997 jetta. The oil filter screws into the oil cooler (you should see two coolant lines attached to it). You probably need to replace the oil cooler...
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