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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Unlikely that the oil-cooler is leaking. Instead replace the oil cooler seal (about 5 dollars)

    I have also seen times when the oilfilter itself was causing the leaking.... but I assume you have tried replacing the oilfilter already and you are now looking for more ideas.
  • Is there a trick to getting the oil pan off my 8V automatic?

    I took off the bellhousing dust cover, 20 oil pan bolts, and the powersteering pump and bracket. But the pan and gasket hang an 1/8"-1/4" off the block, so I can't get my fingers behind it to feel around. It feels like it's caught on something inside the pan, not on the edges or outside. I can rotate and tilt it a little bit but Chilton's said not to pry it apart. There are a couple small flat dents not more than a 1/4" deep from scraping the road, which didn't seem bad enought to distort the pan's shape. Is the oil pump, pick-up tube, or dipstick, or internal screen catching?
  • I also have this same problem, I mean exact same problem. I have found that when I clean the contacts, I am able to drive it for about 1 week before it happens again. I'm not sure if this is a coincidence or not, but I had the battery checked by a local VW dealership. They charged me $40, told me my battery was fine, and sent me on my way. Any resolution to your problem yet?
  • Hi. I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8L, and recently my ASR light came on. While it was on and I was driving, the car began jumping, (almost as if something was popping) and it made my car lurch forward slightly. This happened about a year and a half ago as well. Both times, the day after this happened the light did not come on and it drove normally. When I took it to the shop they could not find the problem. Today both my ASR light and the Oil light came on simultaneously and it began jumping every time I switched gears.
    What should I do and what could this problem be?
    Thanks in advance for responses.
  • isaeisae Posts: 2
    No, no resolution yet. I got a reply to clean the serpentene belt. I am going to try it once I figure out where it is. I hate taking the car to a dealership if there is something I can do myself. I hope to keep the car running long enough to trade it in. It seems this problem occurs in most of the Jettas out there and the VW mechanics don't know how to fix them.
  • Well, yesterday afternoon my car did what our cars do. At a busy stoplight when the car came to a stop the engine just cut out. A weird buzzing started on the inside (never happened before), the battery became unusually hot, and it would not start back up. The battery acted like it was completely drained, after a short while even my hazards wouldn't work. Usually if I clean the contacts, it will start shortly after. But this did not work! I had to have it towed to a mechanic (there is a really reputable import mechanic in our town). If he discovers the problem I will relay that to you. Just be careful driving and my suggestion to you is unload it ASAP.
  • hey guys

    can someone tell me what the coolant level should be in my jetta?, My coolant level is at half right now (right between min and max.) i have a friend who has the same model as me and his is the same thing.... is this the level it is suppose to be kept at or should it be right at max? if it has to be topped off can i just put the coolant in or do i have to worry bout putting in distilled water too...?

    if someone can let me know that would be great, thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If you had read your owners manual...BOTH of your questions are clearly answered within. ("what the level should be?" and "what liquid to add?")

    Incase you have misplaced your owners manual, I will answer both questions below;

    The coolant level will fluxuate depending on the temparture of the antifreeze. When hot, it expands and rises. As it cools, the level will go down. That is why the airspace in the resivour exists... to allow for this expansion. (If you recall from 7th grade science.... a gas can be compressed but a liquid cannot be compressed.)

    The level (with stone-cold engine) should be between "min" and "max". When I have to add fluid, I always put it closer to the "max" while I am at it.

    If you do need to add some fluid it MUST be distilled water. If you need to add more than a cup of liquid, it MUST be a 50/50 mix of G12 antifreeze and distilled water.

    IMPORTANT: Use only G12 antifreeze!! Introducing even a small amount of any other antifreeze can cause gelling and eventuall plugging of the cooling system.

    The good news is that G12 antifreeze has been proven to be VERY good at doing its job for a long time. There is rairly any need to "change" the G12 antifreeze because it resists breaking down or depleating its protective qualities.
  • hey thanks for your help bpeebles,i dont have the owners manual so i am thankful you were able to answer my question.

    i've got another quick question for ya, i noticed a few posts back that you mentioned how to check for brake drag, i took your advice and checked it out, but wasnt too sure if what i found was normal or not

    i put the car in neutral and had the e brake off, i popped the car up on the jack at each wheel, i spun the front wheel using both my hands and as soon as i let go, the wheel stopped immediately, same went for the other front wheel, i checked the rear wheels they each spun maybe about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn before coming to a stop, as i spun the rear wheels i could hear a slight "tsst" noise and when i tried to spin the fronts i could hear a slight grind. not sure if thats because its front wheel drive

    if you can give me some advice on this that would be greatly appreciated

    thanks as always
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Before you add G12, you should check to be sure that is still what is in there. If you are not the original owner it is possible that a previous owner flushed the G12 out and put ethylene glycol in (green coolant).
  • OK i have a problem i think should be easy to solve. I own a 1994 jetta # its 2.0 and has a slight problem. I have gotten my key stuck inside. it will still crank the car but it will not releease the key. which i a perfectly fine with. but the other day i left my lights on and my battery went dead. So i did wat every american does i found some randomn person to cuss out while i tryed to re charge my battery. but when i hooked the jumper cables to the car battery my alarm (which i didn't even know i owned) went off. so since i couldn't hook it to the battery while it was in the car i simply removed the battery from the car and then charged the battery. but now when i try to hook the battery back to the car my alarm goes off.

    so is there anyway to disable my alarm. i dont really care if it every works again i just want my car to run. thanxs?

    and no i do not have a users manual and the neariest dealer is most likely a couple hundred miles away seeing as how i live in the country.
  • ks82ks82 Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8T with 40.5k miles. Over the last 500 miles I noticed that the engine would rev up with no corresponding increase in speed, mostly in the 4th and 5th gear. Over the last 50 miles I noticed this problem in the 1st and 2nd gears too. I figured this was clutch slippage.

    I was planning on getting my 40k service done and this problem prompted me to go get my 40k service done at the dealership. Took it to Russel VW in Baltimore, Maryland today(the cheapest quote I got in the DC metro area - $500). Got a call a bit earlier that the "clutch kit" needs to be replaced for $1300. It seems the kit is mostly the cable leading to the clutch. Was told that the clutch itself is in good shape, but that any delay in replacing the "kit" would damage the clutch which would cost about $3000. Gave me such a shock that I didn't ask much, but just told them to hold off on any repairs. I will call tomorrow and ask about the exact problem, but in the meantime I want to check on this "clutch kit" problem. Never heard of this before. I had braced myself for problems with the clutch, but this is really ridiculous.

    I am not going to get any work done at the dealership. Any suggestions for a good VW repair place in the Columbia/Baltimore area? How much should I expect to pay for replacing a clutch or the "clutch kit" if that is a legitimate problem?

    I have been driving a stick for the past ten years. Previous car was a 98 Jetta that I drove for 75k.

    Thanks in advance.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If you were able to spin the wheels by hand, there is not much drag.

    One reason that the front wheels behave differently from the rears is because your car is a front wheel drive. The REAR wheels are essentually "along for the ride" and just spin on bearings. The FRONT wheels not only have bearings, they are also connected to the transmission thru constantVelocity joints and driveshafts. These components add some more rotational resistance to the front wheels when you spin them by hand.
  • New to the site. Having scraps of a filter blowing out of the AC vents. Anyone know where the passenger cabin air filter is located? I'm sure this is the problem - old and falling apart. These are good to replace in all cars periodically. I can't find anything in the owner's manual as to where this is located.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    Open your hood, on your left of center (the passenger side) as you look at the engine right under the bottom tip of the windshield. Lift the weather stripping from (your )the left edge, app 12-15 in and it will be held down by a number of screws. It is hard to describe the exact motions it takes to both R/R the cabin filter. Suffice to say you need a certain amount of english, but not so much as to break off plastic pieces needed for proper operation.
  • I have an 02 vr6 automatic, i had the jerking for approximately 120000 kilometers on and off, I had the code read and it indicated that it was the shift solemoid which is about 1700 canadian to fix. its a computer problem not always the tranny.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    This webpage shows the basic location of the cabin filter.

    This webpage shows step-by-step procedure to replace it.

    When you get a cabin filter, most places will ask you if you want the one with the CHARCOAL or not. Although more expensive, the charcoal filter does a superiour job at removing outside odors. (exhaust fumes, skunk.... etc)
  • lacilaci Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 VW Jetta Wagon TDI. Recently the check engine light came on and I went to dealer to have diagnostics done. I have one faulty glowplug and they want to replace all glowplugs and the wiring harness. Big bucks! Get second opinion or try something another VW TDI owner has tried and was successful. On a small income and don't want to put out this if I can put it off. But don't want to ruin engine either. Thanks for any info or suggestions.
  • :mad: I need help with the maintenance tool light on my VW jetta 2007. I just change my oil and I want to know if there is a way to reset the maintenance little tool light off.
    can anyone help me please??
    Thank you for any help
  • Just a heads up. A very reputable import mechanic said everything looked okay except the positive battery cable was loose. They replaced it and said that the car has not reproduced the symptoms since. (they are fixing something else on the car (unrelated). But when I get the car back I'll let you know if the problem was resolved by replacing/tightening the positive battery connection.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Glowplugs on your 2003 are due to start needing some attention. (I also have 2003 TDI... the BEST A4 TDI ever made before they switched to new engine design) I had one GP go bad last winter.

    There is no need to just replace everything. You may want to educate yourself about the glowplugs 1st. Start by reading this. (dont forget to read ALL the pages)

    After you have read thru that, I would be glad to answer any specific questions you have about the TDI glowplugs.

    Any parts you would need (glowplugs, harness, relay) are available here.
    Even if you replace ALL 4 GPs and the harness, it would cost less than $200 (but you should not need to do all that)
  • Thank you for the link, I didnt see anything on 2007 jetta. I will thought try the audi procedure with the speedometer and see if it works. If you have a better link reply to me please

    Thank you again!
  • gitgogitgo Posts: 2
    Need some help - any comebacks appreciated. Have a 4cyl, Gasoline 2.0. with problems. Hit a raccoon on the right front side and the check engine light came on afterwards. (raccoon cited for DUI and has since disapppeared). Insurance not covering this and it is getting very expensive. Trying to tie the problem with the accident - hard to prove it was accident related. Car ran perfectly prior to the accident.

    Engine starts ok, however, it will not pull itself. Engine will not rev up at all - when I step on the accel. the engine cuts out. Runs rough until the engine warms up - some smoke until it gets hot. Even then, little or no power, and the engine sputters upon putting into gear. It will only get up to around 40mph. Have had two separate diagnostics on it, one indicated the engine was misfiring. Changed the plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter. Had the second diagnostic performed by a VW dealer and it indicated the ignition coil was the problem. Have changed this out and the problem remains. I run premium fuel, maintainence is regular - any thoughts on the cat. converter? Other possible problems? Solutions? Many thanks to anyone who responds.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    With the key out of the ignition find and press the odometer reset button (hold down)
    Turn the ignition on (warning lights come on) wait about 10-15 sec until most or the lights are off (still pressing odometer reset button)

    Turn ignition off (button still pressed) and remove the key

    Release reset button

    Interval should now be reset. If this is not the case, repeat the above procedure
  • hey guys, hoping some of you can help me out.

    i've been getting really bad gas mileage on my 1999 Jetta, automatic, when i say bad i mean really bad! i can never seem to break 350-375 km before the gas light comes on, i am not a very aggressive driver, i maybe do 10kmh over the speed limit and i dont do any jack rabbit starts,i do mostly city driving with the odd hwy drive

    i have tried numerous things to try and improve this but none of them seem to work i have a K&N drop in air filter (which is only 5 months old), i changed my fuel filter, i recently had my Catalyst replaced (under VW warranty), my tires are at the recommended pressure, i've used numerous STP oil, gas and fuel injector treatments, i have literally nothing in my trunk or anything "extra" in the car, and i do my oil changes every 5k or 3 months,i was running Castrol High mileage 10w-30 but was told to run the reccommended 5w-30, i did that but no change in mileage, i was going to check and clean my MAF sensor but i've been to every auto parts and hardware store in my area and none of them carry the 5 point Security T20 torx driver that i need to remove it, i have tried to find one off ebay or something but no luck so far, i also checked for brake drag and there seems to none. i have owned the car for about a year now and haven't really noticed the mileage till early this spring ( i thought the cold weather had something to do with it but apparently not) and i have been trying to figure it out ever since, i purchased the car used

    i just recently changed the plugs and wires, both OEM, i'm just waiting to see if that does anything but if it doesnt i think i have to take it to the dealership and have them check it out. if thats the case, what should i ask them to check out, or what should i be prepared to replace on the car? what else could possibly be affected my mileage so much?

    i know some people might say that 350 aint bad in the city but i think thats garbage for 2.0L 4 kicker engine, i know people that drive jeeps in the city that get the same if not Better MPG then me!

    any ideas are greatly appreciated

    thanks guys

    :lemon: <--------My car?????
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    EPA adjusted rating is 19 or 20 mpg city for a 1999 jetta or "new jetta" respectively, not sure how that compares to "350-375 km before the gas light comes on".

    CR does a much more severe city test. Back in 1994 they got 16 mpg city with a Jetta III.
  • Racoon was disguised as (fill in other car company) salesman & disconnected acclerator linkage, then fled. Sorry, couldn't resist.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    I'd replace the oxygen sensor or sensors immediately and if that doesn't help, do a massive injector cleaning, even pulling them out and having them cleaned in necessary.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    First of all.... GET THAT OILED_GUAZE AIRFILTER OUT OF THERE!!! It cannot give you any better MPG and more likely will destroy your MAF sensor (if it has not already)

    Quick synopsys of the facts:
    Most of the hype you hear about oiled-guaze airfilters is a bunch of cr@p. The oiled-guaze airfilters have been proven to filter the air WORSE than the factory-specified filter and the oil from oiled-guaze airfilters has been shown to get sucked into the intake-tract where it can damage MAF sensor.

    The basis for most of the hype is to claim that your engine needs more "airflow" into it and the airfliter is somhow restricting the flow. The reality is that unless you drive with the throttle-pedal on the floor all the time, the limiting factor in the intake-tract is the throttle-plate... not the airfilter.

    Now - on to your perceived low MPG problem...

    Have you considerd the engine temperature sensor?
    Some people have reported that this sensor can fail in a way that fools the engine-computer into thinking the engine is always cold. Thus, it injects extra fuel all the time based on this.

    This type of problem can be isolated using VAGCOM which is able to show you the raw-data coming into the engine-computer from all of the sensors.

    If that is not the problem, the VAGCOM is also able to graph the output of the MAF so you are able to tell how it is operating.

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