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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • Hi, like many 2000 VW Jetta VR6's, my Emission light keeps coming on and staying on and there isn't an Emissions problem. I've had my service company repair the computer to only have it do it again.

    My dilemma is I have to get my emissions done this year to renew my tabs, and they only test off the computer, which is faulty. Is there a code I can use to trip the computer and clear it myself without a diagnostics computer? I've heard of some vehicles having a trip code where if you hold the odometer clear button for 10 seconds, then turn the ignition on and hold the odometer button again, that it will clear the computer? Is this possible...I need to get me tabs!

    I already had my computer cleared at my service center, but at the emissions they said they couldnt get a reading because the code hadn't been cleared. Then the light came back on after 20 miles.
  • How many miles do you have on the car?
  • 2001 Jetta has humming sound that increases and decreases with speed? Quiet when sitting still. Any ideas?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I already had my computer cleared at my service center, but at the emissions they said they couldnt get a reading because the code hadn't been cleared. Then the light came back on after 20 miles.

    It sounds like they probably were getting a "not ready" reading. When you reset the light, it takes some time to go through everything and decide if it should turn back on. If they will not pass you when the light says "not ready" reseting light by any method is not going to help. You will have to fix whatever is causing the light to go on (or sell the car to someone in an area that does not have emissions testing).

    In my state if your car says not ready they put you on the dynamometer and test actual emissions. However, if you already went for the test and failed based on CEL light, then they will not do that when you go back for retest. This happened to my kid, his CEL light in Jetta came on between the time he got out of the car and the test station tech plugged it in. Then when he went back after fixing the problem car said "not ready" and they said he had to drive it until it was ready...they would not do the dynamometer thing.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Is in increasing with rpm of the engine or with the speed of the car itself? You can test this by seeing if the sound stays the same when you take your foot off the gas and coast.
  • Seems to stay steady, separate from RPMs. Car is shifting fine, I wondering if it's the catalytic converter?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Sounds like it is not engine related, then. Might be wheel bearing or axle...I've have had humming noises in cars that turned out to be caused by that.

    Sometimes bearing noise will get worse when you turn one way and better when you turn the other.
  • I'm up in Wisconsin and it's very, very windy today. I ran into a store and when I came out, the front emblem of my 06 Jetta was laying on the ground. I throughly checked my car and there doesn't appear to be damage to anything other than the area that holds the emblem (the plastic is cracked). Even the emblem isn't scratched. Could this possibly be covered under warranty as a defect? If not, what do you think I'm looking at as far as repair costs? Thank you.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If your car is still under warantee... I do not see why it would not be covered. When I purchase a new car, I often have several little items like this come up and they have always coverd under warantee.

    That is what a warantee is for.... to cover manufacturer defects.

    Some of the items that were covered under warantee for me;
    *)numbers on manual-xmission shift-knob were becoming smudged with use.
    *)Water droplets forming inside headlight-housing
    *)Oil leaking from trunk-opener pistons.
    *)Poor radio reception (turns out that water was leaking around antenna)
  • whizywhizy Posts: 1
    i have same issue since last 2 days & tired driving in 3rd gear, please let me know if this issue solved...
  • I have had this problem for 4 years now and the light keeps coming back on after each repair with the same code.

    Have done the following repairs:
    1) Replaced the vacuum hose between Combi valve and Solenoid Valve.
    2) Replaced hose between secondary air pump and combi valve.
    3) Replaced the combi valve

    The only other parts remaining to be replaced for the Secondary Air Malfunction seems to be the solenoid valve and the Secondary air pump.

    Any ideas/thoughts?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Code "P0411" comes out as "Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected" "P0411" also is VAG code "16795"

    Are you sure that you understand what the "Secondary Air Injection System" is supposed to be doing? It is best to fully understand WHY a system exists and HOW it is supposed to work. Also, do you know how the computer is "sensing" the flow?

    Once you understand the system better, It may be easier to isolate the failure.

    You asked for ideas.... my idea is VagCom With a VagCom, you should be able to actually MONITOR the "Secondary Air Injection System" Flow against the desired setpoint. (VagCom can draw a graph as you accellerate thru the gears.)
  • My caliper seems to be seizing with the cold weather...
    I don't know if it's the emergency brake cable or not, but when I drove off this morning it happened again like yesterday, and my brakes were burning. I don't know what could be causing this specifically, but have some ideas. It is only the rear driver's side. I put new calipers, pads, and rotors on the rear. When I went to pull it in my garage this morning, however, it wasn't seized. My e-brake also needs to be pulled pretty high, and isn't very strong. Any help is much appreciated and if you need any more info I'll do my best to provide details.
  • No, I do not totally understand the secondary air injection system. Know at a very high level that the airpump takes the air from the Air filter and sends it to the Combi Valve via a vacuum hose which sends in the right mixture to Solenoid valve ..etc. Could be wrong here

    Can you please explain.

    And once I have the VAG tool, you said monitor it in diff gears - so will that be while moving and how would I know what exactly is the problem? Like is it the vacuum hose that connects from air pump to Combi valve or the one from Combi valve to Solenoid ..

    As you can tell, am very new to internals of cars :cry:

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • I have the VAG-COM tool. You can order the complete kit for VW/Audi at for $71. But you must purchase the VAG license at for $99.

    This tool has saved me $$$$ in diagnostic charges. After running the tool to obtain the particular code(s), I print the results to have handy in the event I have to take the car to my mechanic (on issues that I do not have the tools or equipment to resolve myself).

    I was able to pinpoint and swap out a faulty #3 fuel injector on my 2003 Jetta 1.8T.

    It is well worth the cost.
  • kenf1kenf1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Jetta 2.5L engine. I would like to change the air filter but cannot seem to find its location in the engine.
    Can anyone help me?

  • My wife has a 2000 Jetta VR6 with 100k miles. During her drive home from work, the battery light came on for a couple of seconds. The next morning on her way to work, the battery light came on again as well as the "Alternator Workshop" message. She also said the power steering seemed to go out from time to time. Does this sound like the alternator for sure? If so, my local VW dealership wants $700 to replace it. Does this sound right? And if it is the alternator, should I have anything else replaced while they are in there?

    Thanks for the help.
  • I've got a weird problem with my 2000 Jetta. Maybe it's not so weird to someone with car experience.

    My gas mileage has dropped from 34 to 9 in a matter of 1 tank of gas.

    The engine idles rough and hesitates, almost stutters when accelerating sometimes. When going 70 on the highway at times she will begin to shake- like she's coughing...other times it runs normally. The engine temperature doesn't reach it's normal 190 degrees. The exhaust smells like gasoline and the exhaust is thick and dark in color. When it coughs, the CHECK ENGINE light will blink and then stop. When it stops blinking, the car SEEMS to return to normal operation.

    I thought it was maybe a gasoline problem and immediately filled up with premium but it ate the premium just as fast as the 87 octane. Are we looking at a Cat Converter problem? I have no idea.

    I would really appreciate some help...?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The only way that the power-steering would be affected by the alternator would be if we were dealing with one of the NEW VWs with the electric-power-steering.... but a 2000 does not have electric-power-steering.

    The only thing in common with alternator and power-steering is the serpintine belt. If this belt slips (perhaps due to water splashed from front-right wheel), both the power-steering and the alternator will be affected for a few seconds.
  • had the same problem on my 2003 jetta dealership could not find anything, in my research from a pass vw maintance person, says it's the fuel gauge inside the gas tank. its sending wrong signals reading say empty. the are in the tank is rusting out. that is your problem
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is not possible for plastic gastank to "rust out".
  • I am in the middle of a 2,500 mile road trip and today while on the freeway heard and felt a huge bang or knock on the drivers side of the car, then noticed when I pulled over that the MIL (malfunction indicator light) was on. I understand this relates to the car emissions system - is it something I should have fixed immediately, or can I complete my trip without damaging the car and take it to a reputable repair shop where I live?
  • nate27nate27 Posts: 2
    I have a '00 Jetta VR6, GLX, manual. A bit over a month ago I had to replace the water pump for the cooling system. Prior to the repair my coolant was low and I bought some Pentosin coolant (the right kind, the name escapes me--G18 or something). After paying about $500, I drove the car from the West Coast to the East Coast of the States, with no problems whatsoever.
    This morning, when starting the car, the oil light came on on the dash and then it told me to "STOP" cause my coolant was low. I checked it and it is the lowest it has ever been-about a cm in the pan. It has never been this low, do you guys know what the heck is going on? It's a bummer cause over the past year, I have had 2 major repairs and do not want to put anymore money into this car, especially for something I thought got fixed. Plus, I'm no longer in California where I got it fixed. Thanks! :confuse:
  • nate27nate27 Posts: 2
    I had the same thing happen to me while driving to another state. Due to the loss of power in my car, I got it repaired immediately. The shop told me it was not a huge deal, but pretty much just an expensive tune-up (around $700!). I was informed fuel was getting into the catalytic converter, thus causing the car to chug, the light to come on and the loss of power, especially in the lower gears. To be safe, I would say get it fixed to avoid having an even more expensive repair to replace your catalytic coverter. Sorry man.
  • Vier did you git dat cah? I have a 2000 VW Jetta and it takes a special tranny fluid ( Store said "SLF") that is at dealership. There's no dip stick and I was stumpped. It must be in engineers' ear. Had me saying "Fahrgenugen". I hear they use a pump to put fluid in. I am glad that you say there is another hole because maybe I can run a tube and funnel. I don't know how much to put in. Maybe they pump it all out and add a set amount. Clueless.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Most VW automatic xmissions require you to connect up to the computer port to ascertain proper fluid level... just another GREAT reason to convince the wife to let you order a VagCom.
  • holt74holt74 Posts: 2
  • Hi there!

    I have a 2002 2.0.

    My problem is that my back locks will not Unlock or lock with my remote or when i press the lock button in the main driver console. the only way to unlock them is to open the door from the inside and the only way to lock them is to push the lock manually. Sometimes the back left one works , most of the time not..

    This is very annoying due to the fact that if i dont remeber to lock them manually the the alarm will not arm and lock them when im walking away. :( ... any solutions to this problem?

    Thanks in advance!!!!!

  • Why did my post get moved to this thread? these are 2 diffrent problems... ???? Puzzled , well thanks anyway ill look to a diffrent forum.

  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    This is a general Maintenance and Repair thread which covers all Jetta problems - this is where the folks are hanging out who can help you. Posting a problem in a new discussion means fewer people will see it.

    Hang in here - we'll try to help. :)
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