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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • surfmansurfman Posts: 11
    Could you please e-mail the list to me. Just bought an '04 Jetta GL 2.0L> Thanks
  • srr2008srr2008 Posts: 1
    I have been having a problem getting my Jetta out of 'park.' It is a 1999 automatic and it has had zero problems so far. When it is hot outside or it has been sitting for a few hours it gets stuck in park. I have been told that I have to floor the brake pedal and the light should go off allowing me to shift it. This is true sometimes. If I push the brake really hard to the floor it will click off after about 5 mintues. Have any of you ever had this occur? And what did you do to fix it?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    coolant "level" is snesed by 2 prongs sticking into the top of the fluid within the plastic resivour. There is an electrical plug on the side of the resivour that connects to the 2 prongs inside the tank. It is virtually IMPOSSIBLE for this to break in any way. The fluid is either touching the prongs or not touching them.... it is that simple.

    If the fluid is low, you may add less than a cup of DISTILLED water. If it needs more fluid than that, then you need to add G12 antifreeze.
  • I just bought an '03 Jetta in January. I replaced an antifreeze hose right off the bat. Then I had two coils go bad. Replaced those. Then my check engine light went on. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor and cleared the code. Everything seems to be fine now. Is there any reason that I am getting 20mpg? On the freeway, it goes up to 25 mpg. My owners manual says I should be getting 36.2mpg. I have been getting this mpg since I bought the car in January.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Is there any reason that I am getting 20mpg?

    It is obvious there must be a reason... the bigger question may be *why*?.

    Off the top of my head, I can think of 20 reasons *why*.

    Top 3 may be;
    1) Your driving style
    2) Dragging brakes
    3) MAF sensor

    You did not mention what engine you have, I can surmise you have the 1.8 turbo because it is the only engine which VW offers has individual coils AND can acheive 36MPG. you really need to keep your throttle foot out of the turbocharger to get good MPG. Sure, it it fun to kick in the turbocharger... but you pay the price in poor MPG. Also the 1.8T MUST be fed with hi-test gasoline. Regular gasoline will eventually destroy the engine. I am sure you read that in the owners-manual too.
  • microjmicroj Posts: 10
    I have a 1998 Jetta GLS 2.0L 5 speed manual transmission. I have always used high test gas but with prices going up and up I was wondering if I would be doing serious damage to switch to regular unleaded fuel?
  • Hey guys...Ive been reading many of these posts, and they are mostly very helpful, so thx for educating those of us who need it. I have an '03 Jetta, 2.0, basic...has 71000 mi. When I start up, and the car is in idle, the temp. gauge is fine...for sometime after even. Once I get her on the road, driving at say, 30-40 MPH, the temp. gauge increases slowly (over the 190). But when I am coming down a hill, or at a red light (whenever I am NOT applying the gas pedal), the temp. gauge gives back (slowly) whatever increase she had. However, if I try to drive on the highway, or driving up a hill, or anytime I apply the gas pedal somewhat forcefully, the temp. gauge increases to the point where the Engine/Coolant indicator comes on. But again, even when the temp. gauge is all the way to the right (260), if I stop the vehicle, or in anyway am NOT applying the gas, the temp. gauge slowly decreases, to the point where the indicator light will turn off. ( By slowly, I mean 30 sec. -2 minutes or so) Does anyone think its may be a faulty sensor? Or thermostat? Or do I need to replace the water pump? The antifreeze "tank" is not at critical levels, but is a tad low. No I have not used any other antifreeze, but have also had minimal maintenance on my vehicle with regards to engine issues anyhow. Any ideas, please? For what its worth, your helping out a soldier who is about to go to Iraq in a month, but I want my car running properly before I "store" her for 15 months. Thank you in advance whoever can offer some guidance.
  • derek11derek11 Posts: 1
    I'm looking at a 2001 Jetta 4D GLS 2.0L Automatic (53k miles) offered for 6,500 at a dealership. The car facts report shows the following repairs every 5 months in 2002 and and month after month (4 repairs) in 2003.
    The repairs are (each item repaired on a different visit) as follows: 1)Tire Serviced. 2) Wheel(s) Replaced. 3) Rear Brake Pads Replaced. 4) Rear Brake Pads Replaced. 5) Two Wheels Alligned. 6) Suspension Serviced. 7) Brakes Serviced. The owner sold after 3 years 7 mos. No Accident reported.
    The 2nd owner's record does not contain any repairs.
    What could have caused those repairs? Is that quite normal, or is the car a lemon?
    I'd appreciate any advice please..
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The 1998 2.0 does not require hi-test. You may use RUG (Regulare Unleaded Gas) without concequence.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    By your description, it sure sounds as if your thermostat is not controlling the engine temparture the way it is supposed to. It is cheaper to replace the thermostat than the waterpump.

    The waterpump is installed into the engine where it is driven by the timingBelt. To replace it, it is most economical to also replace timingBelt, pullies, tensioner and all other moving components in there at the same time. With 71K miles, you are getting close to the time to replace all that stuff anyway.
  • Bpeebles thx for the info. I was with a buddy today who drove around with me and he also said it might be the thermostat, or the waterpump. He also thought it was rather bizarre b/c "once an engine is hot, it stays hot." The temp. gauge shouldnt decrease within a couple minutes, and within all of 5 minutes be nearly back to the 190. Would you concur? And last question, should I take it in to a VW dealer, or to a reliable garage who knows VW's, or could I purchase the parts, and employ a friend who is auto savvy? Of course Im trying to do this as cheap as I can just to get me around for the next month.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    The way you describe the problem, it could be a thermostat that is stuck partially open, or your water pump is beginning to fail. If your thermostat was stuck in the fully open position, your car would not overheat. Also, you did not say whether your electric engine cooling fan is operating correctly. If your fan is working correctly, I agree that you should try changing out the thermostat first.

    Take care over there. Best wishes from a Vietnam vet.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    With 71K miles, you are getting close to the time to replace all that stuff anyway.

    Gates recommends replacing timing belt at 60K mi.

    VW says "check" it every 40K mi, my understanding is in order to check it you have to do most of the labor needed to replace it anyway.

    VW maintenance schedule
  • I want to get a neuspeed cold air intake but I don't know if its worth the price? 166.00 is the cheapest I've been able to find it. They sell two kinds one with air pump, one with out, I have a 97 Jetta GLS 2.0L which one would I purchase? Any info would be appreciated.... Thank you.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    All VWs have a CAI installed from the factory... dont waste your $$ replacing the well-desighed factory unit. There really is nothing to be gained from replacing the factory CAI.

    Perhaps if you tell us what your GOAL is... then we could recommend a better way to spend your hard-earned cash on your VW. Are looking for power, MPG, sound, handling, braking, longevety.... other?
  • girl i work with says she dont have a dip stick for the trany is this true is it a sealed system in a 1996 jetta havent looked for my self.... thanks for your help
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Yes - it is essentually a sealed system. Most newer VWs do not have a "dipstick" for automatic xmission.

    To check the xmission fluid, you are supposed to use a computer hook-up under the dash to determine fluid temparture and some other steps to check the level.

    In any case, one should follow the owners-manual reguarding xmission and brake-fluid replacement at proper intervals....lest there may be expensive repair bills.
  • My GOALS are power, performance, basically all of the above, I just want to upgrade, I hate having the car stock... Already upgraded brakes, shocks getting wheels next... was told upgrading intake would help mpg and improve hp.. there alot I want to do on the performance aspect I just don't know where to start.
  • djguidodjguido Posts: 1
    Ok, so here is the deal. i have a 2001 VW Jetta 1.8 turbo stick shift, 99xxx miles. The car had been sitting for about a week. I am a dealer but I am trying to get out of the business. one of my drivers had the car for a while and he told me that the car would run fine and then all of a sudden run bad. So when I picked it up yesterday, to my surprise, the car was running like a dream. Turbo was boosting, it had pep and it drove great.......for about 20 minutes. All of a sudden a the EPC light came on and the little triangle warning light. I had power loss and it started sputtering(misfiring). It drove ok on the highway but you can tell something is wrong, especially in lower speeds. So here are the trouble codes with the meanings:

    P1176 O2 Correctionbehind Catalyst, B1 Limit Attained
    P1297 Connection turbocharger - throttle valve pressure hose
    P1103 O2 Sensor Heating Circ., Bank1-Sensor1 Output too low
    P1171 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Range/Performance
    P1542 Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Range/Performance
    P1545 Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction
    P1568 Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. mechanical Malfunction
    P1602 Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 Low Voltage
    P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input
    P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    P0507 Idle Control System Higher than Expected

    I would like to fix this myself but I would like to have a game plan. I am noticing a lot of O2 sensor things, throttle control or position(maybe the sensor), maybe the mass air flow sensor. Is there one thing I should try first? Is there one thing that would set all the others off?

    Any help is greatly appreciated....Thanks guys
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    OK - you want power -- then forget the CAI which will make no measureable change and go for a supercharger kit
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    What you describe sounds like the ol' "coolant migration problem" which wrecks havoc with the electrical system.
  • I understand that when the coolant migrates u mean like a leak that would drip and run and get into the wires, and I know that there are a few products out there to cure minor coolant leaks. However could this also cause power loss where it is only happening between 2000-3000 RPMs and in every gear? would it be more likely an O2 sensor or a plugged fuel rail or something?

    I have a 96 Jetta, and I notice from time to time that the coolant is lowering, tried the lucas coolant fixer but still seems to be leaking some place...should I try to cure the coolant leak and hope that cures me? or is my problem more in a blocked air or fuel path? would there be any chance that its an ECM getting weak?
  • Im sure ur looking for a hose, i have a 96 and the hose clamp and part of the hose is still there but ripped off, so i looked at a buddy's golf, it was a hose that went from the air box to the exhaust manifold, just a cold air intake from factory kind of setup, so if urs is gone and the manifold is still good just get a new hose, if like mine and the tin around the manifold is gone then ur better off just leavin it be
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The "coolant migration problem" is a specific failure whereas the antifreeze leaks into the electrical connector plugged into the side of the expansion tank. The plastic insulation on the wires acts as "tubes" which actually guide this leaking coolant directly into the heart of the electrical system. Antifreeze tends to corrode the copper in the wires. People who have had the "coolant migration problem" for a long while have reported that the entire electrical system gets corroded.

    Here is a video about the "coolant migration problem".
  • 2001 VW Jetta run very ruff, missing and won't start in wet weather (rainy days). Got to be electrical problem? Was there a re-call on some problem about this or what should I look for? Replaced plugs and wires.
    Thanks, Ken
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Maybe coil pack(s).
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    How many miles? 2.0L engine?

    I bet it is your coil pack. Replace the coil pack, wires, and the plugs.

  • I have a 2001 VW Jetta GL 2.0 4 cyl. I am trying to change the cap, wires, and spark plugs. But the header covers seems to be in the way of the some of plugs. How do I change the spark plug? Do I need to remove anything to get at all 4 of them?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There is no "distributor cap" on a modern EFI engine.... just coil,wires and sparkplugs,
    (some engines do away with the wires and just put a coil on each sparkplug)

    To specifically answer your question, to get the inside 2 sparkplugs out, use a "wobble socket extension" on your socketwrench plugged into your sparkplug socket.

    *) Do NOT pull on the sparkplug wires to remove them from the sparkplugs.
    *) Use compressed-air or other means to clean around sparkplugs BEFORE you remove them.(You do not want crud to fall into the engine.)
    *) Use ONLY the proper Bosch sparkplugs in the 2.0 engine (no equivalants)
    *) Apply light coating of antiseaze to the new sparkplug threads
    *) Make certain the new sparkplugs are HAND threaded to the seat before snugging. (To eliminate cross-threading )
  • well i got in my car one day and started it up (manual) and the battery light came on. the next thing you know the abs lights come on the traction light came on and the air bag light came on. a little after that i had to stop for a red light. the car then would not move or anything when the light turned green. it finally started barely putting enough to move so i could get it off to the side of the road. i tryed to start it up again and it was like it was completely dead. so i get to it the next day and it started up fine. after driving it again it did the same thing all over again. so i parked it and took off the battery for 5 min and jumped it and it had a mind of its own. it started reving high and low by itself. does anyone have any kind of feedback for me? it would sure be appreciated. (oh yea and it only has 47000)
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