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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • microjmicroj Posts: 10
    I had an 89 golf that did the same thing. After weeks of caulking and sealing all possible leaks with no results, I figured out what it was. On the upper left and right corners under the hood up by where the window meets the chasis are two drains that were clogged with leaves. once I cleaned them out water was able to drain properly and the water in the car dried up within a few days. So, lift up the hood and take a look up by your windsheild and see if there are drains there that might be blocked. I'm not sure if its the same for 04 jetta's but it's worth a look and it wont cost you anything!!
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Does anyone know how to slow down the oil consumption of this engine? The engine uses about a quart every 700 miles. The car has 91K miles and ir runs great. There is zero oil leak and there is no smoke out of tail pipe at any time.

    Is there any special product or oil to use? I have been using 5-30W name brand oil.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,331
    You are either burning it or leaking it, there's no other way, so there is probably blue smoke that you can't see.

    You might want to have a cylinder leakdown test done to see what the problem is. If it's valve guides you may wish to consider getting that fixed. At a quart every 700 miles, you are starting to put stress on your catalytic converter.

    There's nothing in a can that cuts oil burning for more than ten minutes. You can gunk it up in there but that does more harm than good. If you are in a mild climate you can switch to a heavier oil, sure, like a 10W-40 or 20W-50, and see if that matters. I kinda doubt it but you never know. Or you could even run a straight weight oil if you can find one that meets your engine's specifications. But that could be hell in winter.

    Anyway, get a cylinder leakdown test done and then at least you can end the speculation about where exactly the problem is, in the engine.

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  • I typed this up somewhere before but I can't find where in the world I typed it...

    Anywho, I'm trying to find a forum with people that actually owns the MKIV(99.5-2005) Jetta and actually chime in before a year passes.

    Does anyone know which models have or should have the rear cupholders? They are located under the rear coin holder thing. That small rectangular square is similar to the fronts and when pushed, a retractable cup holder comes out.

    While I'm at it, does anyone know if its available for purchase?

    :) Thanks in Advance :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    VW changed that interiour stuff so often that I cannot tell you specific years.

    If I were looking for that kind of item, I would visit several scrapyards and poke around the old VWs.... I often find this kind of stuff and they are GLAD to get $5 for it. (because there is not a big market for it)
  • I know. I went to a dealership that had 7 MKiV available! Some 99s had it, The 2000 GLX had it, but his 1999 GLS VR6 did not. The 2001 GLS 2.0 I was very interested in did not, but the 2002 Wolfsburg did...

    Unfortunately, the armrest in that GLS I looked at needed to be fixed/replaced and the dealership pledged to fix it, among other minor things, before the car is purchased. Maybe he'll get the one with the rear cupholder.

    The minor issues that car has/had is bubbling tinted windows (replaced), sunroof sunshade appeared to have ketchup on it that was tried to get cleaned but used some cleaning agent that also didn't work. He was replacing it on my last visit. Yes the Dealer does his own repairs on the cars he sells which is favorable and unfavorable. My aunt bought an Altima from them and has had ZERO problems, but this is a VW we're dealing with here... He is selling the 2001 Jetta GLS 2.0 w/ Leather package, heated seats, sunroof, &~113k miles for a negotiable $6,000. Ok with me.

    My biggest drawbacks with the Jetta is ALL THOSE DARNED CHANGES!! I just know I want the 6airbags(2 Front, 2 Seat Side, 2 Side Curtains) the 2001 model brought. I'd like the 1.8T but don't want to deal with sludge problems. I like the VR6, but only 2002 and newer when the MPG changed from 17/23 to 19/28 but those are too $$$. I'd like the 5MT but I live in an area with high traffic so its discouraging...

    Do your daughters still have the Beetle and Golf (I was reading some posts from 2002) and whats your opinion on them?

  • harvkharvk Posts: 2
    make sure the air conditioner hose from the condenser is draining thru the floorboard or firewall. also, if you have a sun roof make sure the drain holes are clear.

    good luck
  • foxrofoxro Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 VW Jetta GL, standard 2.0. Car began to be hard to start, then died. Repair shop told me it was fuel system rerelated. I replaced fuel filter, car started, ran fine for a few days then died again. Replaced fuel pump, and fuel pump relay, and fuel pressure regulator, still will not start. Engine cranks, there is spark, fuel is reaching fuel rail, but will not start. I am at wits end, this car has been such a constant problem, any help would be great, thanks.
  • Again try to see if the Ignition Coil is bad. Well known item to fail.
    Better to use a part from VW parts dept. Since after market ones like from Autozone (where I work) seem to not be up to specs to handle the load a VW puts on the part.
  • have a '94 just got it (comuter car) very clean - the dang alarm is sounding when the batt is connected
    prior owner lost the master key and I had one made (not by VW) the barrel on the drivers door is broken but still cant silence the alarm even when actuating the door lock with a screwdriver!!
    and the key will not actuate the passenger side door! it DOES operate the ignition but with the alarm engaged, the ignition is locked out -- any clues?? or will a new master key being made fix this? thanks in advance for any suggestions!

    Did you get the new master key?
    This is the first thing you should do so you have the right part.
    After that you should make sure you have the code for the radio to reset the alarm.
    Get it from the dealer and pay a hefty price.
    Otherwise put an after market radio in, but watch the extra wire that may be there to tell when oil changes need to be made. It might interfere with the OBDII getting codes at a later time. It may ned to be cut and covered.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Yes - my daughters each still have their 2001 Golf / NewBeetle. Both vehicles have needed brakes/rotors... but that is not unexpected.

    My one daughter really drives her car hard (the rough roads dont help) and her 2001 Gulf has needed some suspension work (springs and various rubber bushings) Reciently the flexpipe between engine and cat broke at 100,0010 miles. Although the warantee is really for 100,000 miles, the dealership covered all except $23.

    The latch on the armrest cover has broken one every single VW we own.... fortunately, replacment latch is about $10 and easy to replace in the driveway.

    This past summer with my 2003 Jetta, both front fenders started to rust. VW honored their 12Year/UnlimitedMileage corrosion warantee and replaced both front fenders.

    Overall, I know if any of us were looking for another car we would, without question, look for another VW.
  • harvkharvk Posts: 2
    i read what you have replaced an still no fuel to fuel rack. reverse engineer. disconnect fuel line from fuel rack getting gas? if not keep going back until you get gas and then replace one part at a time till gas gets to fuel rack. if get gas at point where fuel line goes into the fuel rack then it could be the computer or injectors

    good luck

  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    My son's Jetta with 93K miles was acting up by temp gage going up and over heating. The fans were running, the coolant tank was at full level. I decided to change the thermostat and the coolant at the same time.

    It is amazing the VW dealer wanted $30 for a gallon of coolant. I bought Mercedes coolant from MB dealer for $18/gal for my E430. I don't know how VW justifies charging $30 for coolant. I ended up buying $9/gal Prestone that you can mix and use for all car brands. I question these car manufacturers coming up with their own coolant and ripping off their customers.

    Removing the thermostat housing was a nightmare. The lower bolt has the alternator right in front of it with no room to reach it, it took me hours with tools I had to rig somehthing up to get to it .

    I think VW's 4 cylinders are much more complicated to ge to simple maintenance items than some V-6 or V-8 engines. I have never seen intake manifold blocking spark plug access on a four cylider engine before.

  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,333
    To address the cars' issues, it might be better to find someone with a who can hook it up and trouble shoot or bring it to an independent VW vendor or in the worst case, bring it to the VW dealer. It will be throwing codes.

    Actually 30 for a gal is not bad given most of the other than dealer vendors sell a gal @ 25 per.

    This might not apply to the 2.0 engine, but the oem owners manual on the TDI engine specifies and requires G12. It is truly a lifetime coolant; unless of course, you have (a source of) contamination issues( head gasket leak etc) .

    I only replaced a portion of of my G12 (way less than a bottle of 1.5L, as you dilute 70% G12 + 30 % distilled water) when I had the 100k miles interval- TB/WP changed; as the container used for the G12 anti freeze catch proceedure was used for other peoples G12. (didn't want to contaminate mine with others and vice versa) If I had brought my own catch container, I would have reused MY old G12. So basically I made the decision to top it (@ the proper dilution rate).

    So if the 2.0 engine oem owners manual specifies G12 it is indeed a HUGE mistake to NOT use it. So if you did use other than the recommended anti freeze you probably have contaminated the existing recommended antifreeze.

    As an after thought, the time to question these things is when you do NOT own it.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I don't know how VW justifies charging $30 for coolant. I ended up buying $9/gal Prestone that you can mix and use for all car brands.

    I don't understand why you would want to risk using the wrong coolant in order to save a lousy $21. I'd don't think I would trust Prestone to know what is safe and best for a VW engine or what is safe to mix with G12.

    In addition, if there was no actual need to change the coolant in the first place, how is VW ripping you off? Instead by installing G12 in their new cars, they eliminate the need to pay for routine coolant changes.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    My issue is every body having unique coolant for their engine...Exactly what is so unique about VW engine????? It is like saying use only VW oil filter. Over some 35 years of owning some 25 different cars/trucks/vans/SUVs never ever used manufacturer oil filter or coolant with the exception of the MB coolant. I figured $18 for MB vs. $11 for Prestone, I went with MB.

    I have had ZERO issues with coolant or engines. Are you still insisting on VW coolant? I have issue with them charging $30. What is in it that costs $30/gallon?

    VW's plastic water pump impeller breaks whether you have $30 or $9 coolant. I am not cheap but I do have problem with rip off prices.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The G12 antigreeze is a LIFETIME item that never has to be changed. It is a HOAT (Hybred Organic Acid Technology) formula. You should have SAVED what came out and put it back into the engine.

    Mixing ANYTHING else with HOAT has been known to cause a gell to form and may clog the small passagaways of the cooling system. You are gambling with making the engine into a boat-anchor by saving a few bucks.

    BTW: You can get G12 antifreeze from any diecent autoparts store. Do you really think that VW *makes* antifreeze..... I hope not.

    I use Pentosin which is the same company that makes the VW-labelled stuff.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You said ==> "VW's plastic water pump impeller breaks whether you have $30 or $9 coolant. I am not cheap but I do have problem with rip off prices."

    You could have installed the BRASS IMPELLER waterpump like I did.

    I hope you also replaced the TIMINGBELT, TENSIONOR, and verious pullies on that engine while you had it torn apart.... Otherwise you will be in there again real soon because the TimingBelt is PAST due for a change at that milage.

    If you had simply followed the VW recommendations and REPLACED the TimingBelt, waterpump, tensioner and pullies at the recommended 80K miles, you would have NEVER EVER had this problem to begin with. It is your own fault that you arrived at this point.

    Also - The intake manifold is NOT blocking your access to the sparkplugs. The inner 2 plugs are angled in such a way that you can easilly replace them with a wobbleHead socket extension.

    I could go on and discuss why the intake runners on the VW 2.0L engine are the way they are... but you do not seem to be willing to LEARN about VWs and instead want to complain.

    HINT: Long intake runners create a wider torque-range by creating a ram-effect into the cylinders. This is one reason that VW engines are sooo easy to drive with a clutch because there is torque available right from idle.

    I owned a Honda Civic once... even after 120,000 miles I was still stalling it becasue it had no torque at all unless I spun the engine over 2000 RPM. It was NOT very driver-friendly in that reguard. Also, the oil-filter was IMPOSSIBLE to access unless the car was on a hydrolic lift.

    Conversly, VWs have always put the oil-filter right in the front where they are easy to access. I can change the oil in about 15 minutes by just opening the hood and sucking out the oil with oil-sucker.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,333
    "It is like saying use only VW oil filter. Over some 35 years of owning some 25 different cars/trucks/vans/SUVs never ever used manufacturer oil filter or coolant "...

    That is fine, but in the case of the VW oem badged oil filter/coolant why would you rather NOT use it or Mann or Mahle? We have already mentioned the LIFETIME G12 made by Pentosin, etc, vs change every (whatever) mileage) for the Prestone. OEM Bosch, Mann or Mahle made oil filters are actually specified for 30,000 miles oil change intervals. In my case I run 20,000 mile OCI's and with the advent of ULSD actually do 25,000 miles OCI's. .
  • This ended up being a fuel sensor that had gone bad. With only $40 I resolved the problem =)
  • Back again, this time with a new problem! My '02 Jetta GLS recently has been stalling. This has been intermittent as it would only happen once every couple of months, up until now. Here are the symptoms: as I'm driving my car, it feels as if it's not shifting into gear properly (I have automatic transmission), then finally after some time of driving my steering wheel feels as if it's locked up and my car eventually stalls on me (thankfully I've been able to pull over both times), once it stalls and turns off, the red battery light comes on. After several attempts of turning it on, pressing the gas, keeping it at high RPMs for sometime, etc. it still turns off if I let it get to low RPMs.

    A variation of this has also happened to me when I've driven through puddles or in the rain - my car doesn't shift propertly and eventually feels as if it's going to stall. Any ideas as to what's going on? My CEL has also been on for some time and I was told I needed to replace the O2 sensor, is this related?

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Diagnosing a stalling problem can be difficult. I applaud that you were able to describe most of the symptoms quite well. (You may be surprised how many folks append here asking us to resolve some kind of problem but do not even describe what the problem is.)

    When you feel that the steering-wheel is locked up and the battery light comes on... this means that the engine has stopped running and is not spinning the power-steering pump and alternator. In other words, this is just a symptom of a stalled engine and may not be related to the root problem in any way.

    The problem you describe after going thru a puddle is most likely your ignition system. (sparkplug wires getting wet and shorting out the spark to the cylinders for a few moments)

    After the above - What we have left is still your stalling problem which is not easy to diagnose. At this point I cannot even narrow it down to Fuel, Ignition or electrical.

    Can you perhaps describe the CONDITIONS under which your car stalls. (Wet, Cold, turning right, turning left, Below 1/2 tank fuel, Accellerating, Highway....etc) Basicly anything that can help us narrow in on what is happening?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    bpeebles, sounds like you agree with VW that G12 antigreeze never has to be changed. I am curious if this just based on VW so stating or have come to your own informed conclusion on this? Others?

    I am a long way from needing to think about this, as we have a 2005. I had figured that this would be something I'd look into when the car is about 10 years old, but since the topic has come up, I thought I'd see what people think about this.

    Our other newish car has a long life antifreeze (Mazda calls it FL22), but the manual says to change at 10 years.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,333
    Either are infinitely verifiable. Used Antifreeze Analysis, aka, UAA's can be done just like UOA's. Depending on your years or miles level of paranoia, you can take a sample and send it away for analysis.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Thank you for your comments specially your intake manifold design desription. I figured you did not need to remove the manifold to get to the plugs. I don't have water pump problem. My point was a bad plastic impeller design and I do have every intention of using brass impeller W/P when I do the TB and W/P next summer.

    I think you got confused about what issue I had. I just had an erratic hot engine where the temp gage climbed, so I replaced the thermostat.

    I do like VW's for the way they drive and handle. Their reliability is nothing to brag about but the way they handle no Honda or Toyota can touch. I had a brand new 1985 Jetta 5 speed, put 180K miles on it. It was a great car. The gearing ratio makes the RPM run high. You feel like you need a 6th gear. I had a 92 325i that has similar gearing.

    Taking about oil filter changes... I have had two Accords. I rather jack up the car and get to the filter than drip over power steering hoses and engine block with the filter sitting in the front. Filter changes are messier in 2.0L VW than in Hondas. I don't know about other VW engines. My 85 Jetta did not have power steering or spalsh guards to mess with, but the filter in it was in the same place. Actually it could be the same filter.

    I do have issues with items that are lifetime like coolants or automatic transmissions that they claim it never requires service.....really?

    Will report back on my son's Jetta if any Prestone coolant related issue comes up. If I learn a lesson, I would like you all to know.

  • The coil pack may be the culprit. The earlier coilpacks have been known to crack, allowing moisture to enter. This can cause the car to either stall, or shut down completely. Check and replace the coilpack, and that should resolve the stalling issue.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,333
    I think the comments were offered up on (my) the assumption that no body on this thread wants to see have that kind of experience.
  • I have a 2002 VW Jetta with 100,000 miles on it. I bought the car used. Sense i have owned the car i have had troble with it shifting (its an automatic). When i accelerate it seems to stumble or jerk in to gear. It doesn't do this every time and its normally around 3 gear or so. I have taken it to several shops and they have told me nothing is wrong with my transmission. Recently i have had and issue with my electrical system. It started a few months ago when i noticed that my tripomeder was reset to 0 miles and my clock was reset when i got in the car. then it progressed to were im driving down the road coming to a stop or already stopped and the car loses compete electrical power and the engine turns off. The electric comes back on and i can put my car in park and it turns on with out any problem. It does not happen all the time and it has happen both during the day and at night. And still sometimes when i park my car and then come back to it at the end of the day and i see that the time and the tripomider is reset. I was told that it could be something with my fuel injector that causes the stumbling and for the engine to stall but that does not explain why i lose electrical power does it? I appreciate any insight you can provide to me!
  • I had the same problem. I also have a 2002 jetta GLS. It is probably a transmission sensor. There are a few sensors. My car was not switching speeds correctly which makes the car jump when it is changing shifts. Unfortunately only the dealer can fix this problem. My problem was the sensor inside the tramsmission, which meant that they had to drop the tranny to replace sensor. If you're lucky it wont be that one.
  • Im sorry but i don't know to much about cars, but wouldn't some kind of error come up when you scan the cars computer. Also would they check the sensors when i bring my car in complaining about transmission problems? I was told by several master techs that i didn't have a transmission problem. But thanks for the advice i will try to look more into that and other advice on my post would be great especially the turning off issue i am having. Thanks again for your quick responses.
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