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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    As above appenders have mentioned, you *may* have engine-damage. I would suggest that the valvecover be pulled off to inspect the cams. This is not as comprehensive as pulling the head... but is the very least that should be done.

    Also, your 2000 2.0 is KNOWN to consume oil... this is not a problem unless you do not keep it topped up.

    To answer your original question... replacing TimingBelt also entails replacing idler-pullies, tensioner, waterpump and anything else that touches the belt. This is not inexpensive.

    According to the VW website, your 2000 Jetta 2.0 has 40,000 mile TB replacement ... I assume you replaced it on-or-before it was due so this leads to the conclustion somone DID NOT replace all the necessarry components at 40K miles. (Those other components WILL NOT last to toi the next TB replacement!)

    Do you have recourse against whom may not have done the TB replacement properly?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Actually VW schedule only says "check" timing belt every 40K mi. It says to replace "timing belt tensioner".

    Gates suggests 60K mi replacement interval
  • I have a 2007 jetta 2.5. When i turn on the AC it smells horrible so I was told to change the cabin filter. I have also been told this is called the dust and pollen filter as well as just the cabin air filter. I went to the local auto parts store and got the air filter they said i needed. The question I have is where is this filter located and how do I change it. I have looked online at a lot of places and it seems that it is either under the hood up by the passanger side of the windshield or under the glove compartment. Also when they gave me the part at the store there are two filters in the box. The pics that I have seen of other people changing the filter appears that there is only one filter and it is larger than the ones I have. So now im not sure if I have the right part. I called to verify it with the store again and they said it was. Help! Hopefully I have the right part, but can you please describe what i need and then also where it is supposed to be changed etc.....
    thanks so much!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I beleive your 2007 (MK-V) Jetta cabin-filter is under/behind glovebox. Access is gained by removing two plastic screws, gently pulling down a piece of foam insulation, and releasing a single clip to detach the filter. It (and some debris from it) fall easily onto the floor mat below. Insert the new filter, replace the insulation, re-screw the screws, and within 3 minutes, you’re back in business.

    HOWEVER: Replacing this is not likely to resolve your musty/stinky smell. That is caused by mold growing on your AC-evaperator. To fix it, there are some "sprays" which you can apply to kill the mold.

    To keep stink from coming back, be cognizant about how you use the AC and be careful to blow enough air to keep the AC-evaperator dry as possible.
  • My sixteenth birthday is coming up. That exact day I am going to get my drivers license. So then the next question is what car to buy? My parents and I have been in the market looking at the nissan versa and sentra, ford focus, toyota yaris, honda civic and fit, and VW jetta. We are really only interested in spending around $12,000-$14,000 and it can't be a bare bones car. We have spoken to dealers and they have lowered prices well below retail and offered us half-way decent financing but used cars are still in consideration. The used we have been looking at are used with an average of 20,000-40,000 miles on them and are priced lower than retail. Personally, I think the jetta is smokin HOT! But I have heard that if the car needs to get fixed, VW has to order parts from Germany, that is if the parts are not in stock, which also I have heard has been a problem. This invariably makes the price for repairs more expensive than to get parts for cars with parts available in the states.

    HOWEVER I have also heard that the initial buy on the jetta is cheaper than other midsized cars. So our main questions are is the Jetta high maintenance, meaning do they break easily? What are the facts on VW parts? How do the maintenance costs compare to the other cars explained? Which car would be the best buy out of the ones explained, best price, most durable, best gas mileage, etc.?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi there, welcome! :) You might also want to have a look at this discussion: Best Car for a new teenage driver.

    Happy birthday (soon) and have fun!
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    Honda Civic EX 2 or 4 door. 2006-2008. Stay away from Jetta. It is cute, sporty, handles well, but you/your partents will be making lots of visits that will cost you $$$ to the dealership. Often VW dealers keep guessing and changing parts while not knowing what the problem is......and that is bad.

    Honda Civic is reliable and if you take of the car and don't trash it, resale value is exceptional when you are ready for another car in 2-3 years.

    You may be able to get a new one a lot closer in price to a used one that you think. People often cars are FAR more exepensive. With some 150 days supply of Civics ( some US models are like 280 days), this is a true buyer market. The average daus supply of auto used to be 60 days.

    If you decide to go with a used one, check for a used Civic in your area.

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Are you planning to get a new car every few years or buy one and keep it for, say, 10 years? If you intend to keep the car for a long time you should buy whichever one you like best, as if you don't you may regret your decision and decide to make an early costly change after only a year or two. That cost would likely drwaf any difference in maintenace or repair costs.

    if you have not already, sit in each car and drive each of them that you don't reject based on that. I would think this would narrow the list down.
  • VW's are great cars to drive. They handle well, are tight, and generally sporty. That is why you like it. I have had two Toyota Camrys and just bought an 09 Jetta SE. The Toyotas may be reliable, but they were like driving a sofa down the road. Not so with the Jetta.

    Take a look at a used Jetta at a VW dealer. VW has a "PreLoved" warranty on many of their used cars. It is for 2 years/ 24 months and covers most of the car. This would take away some worries about the cost of repairs.

    Over the years, I have learned that if you don't love the way the car drives and responds to you, ultimately you won't like it. Get what drives great and you will be happy!

    Good Luck.

    Bel Air Car Guy.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    Actually, if you can find a 2007 Jetta that is VW Certified, it could have as much as four years of factory warranty on it, or even a little more depending on its in-service date. That's because the Certified Warranty kicks in after the original factory warranty expires, and the 2007s had a 4-year bumper-to-bumper warranty warranty. A new Jetta will have only 3 years of bumper-to-bumper warranty! I just bought a 2007 Rabbit with 4 years and 40k of factory warranty left (including the VW Certified warranty). Other than one small scratch (which I touched up), I couldn't tell the car from a new one.
  • geech1geech1 Posts: 1
    I just returned from a VW dealer who proposed that I replace my MAF sensor and N80 valve. I thought I would do some research first before shelliing out $500. I have been reading that cleaning the MAF sensor will work and is easy. I can not find any info on the N80 valve. Can you tell me first where to find both under the hood and secondly give your opinion on the best avenue to pursue? Thanks.....
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Posts: 19
    a week ago, my 2001 Jetta check engine light is on and i can feel the car drives more shaking than usual. went to autozone for a free engine check and was told that one of the six spark plugs needs to be replaced. Replaced all the spark plugs and reset the battery. The light is off for 4 days and it is on again!!

    do you guys have similar experience with that? i am really concernd about the car. i know it could be a small problem or indicates big problem of the car. should i also replace the wire that connect the spark plugs?
  • revmarketrevmarket Posts: 48
    Have the code read again.
    Something new might be wrong now.

    If it is the same code then it might be the wire associated with that cylinder where you changed the spark plug.

    Try using a fuel injector cleaner like "Lucas".
    Just in case the injector (if you have them) is dirty?

    If another code comes up then it may not be related to the spark plug issue but a new issue.

    Please relate the code you were given.

    Ask for a printout.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If you have 6 sparkplugs... then you must have the VR6 engine. I beleive this engine uses COP (Coil On Plug) type of ignition. It is likely that one of your coils is bad.
  • djt_jettadjt_jetta Posts: 3
    My 99.5.Jetta GL has just given me the following OBD2 codes and I need one of you smart mechanics to let me know if I'm heading in the right direction...
    - P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire)
    - P0140 (O2 Sensor)
    - P0341 (Camshaft Position Sensor)
    - P0134, (O2 Sensor) and
    - P0141 (O2 Sensor)

    I've never known my car not to have Camshaft Position Sensor issues, so I can probably assume that one's not important. My CEL has been on for almost all of the time that I've owned my car, but the other day it was flashing when my wife drove it.

    I'm headed towards picking up an ignition coil, wires and plugs and going from there. Whaddya all think??

    Thanks in advance! :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I disagree with your prognosis... from my diagnosis of the codes you have listed... it is the "- P0341 (Camshaft Position Sensor)" which is the ONLY one which could cause the rest of them to happen.

    If the ECU gets bad signals from the CPS, it could misfire a sparkplug and thus allow raw fuel into the exhaust (causing O2 sensors to misread due to overload of raw fuel in the exhaust).

    Using the troublecodes, you need to now interperet the readings and reduce them to a common problem. HOWEVER - since you claim that you have not been keeping your engine healthy and the CEL has been on for years... it may not be trivial to perform an accurate diagnosis.

    However DO NOT make the mistake of thinking that this means the sensor itself is at fault.... It MAY be - but troublecodes can only tell you 'symptoms'... not the problem.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Whaddya all think??

    I think you should not drive the car with the CEL flashing.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,815
    Ditto. Flashing CEL is not good.

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  • agm1agm1 Posts: 11
    I need to remove the engine cover on a 2.0 L 2003 vw jetta and it seems to be frozen in place. I want to check the plugs for a slight miss. I guess while I am at it I will change the plugs. What is the best book for help? No check engine light. Still get 23-25 mpg and the miss is at 60-75 mph.
  • djt_jettadjt_jetta Posts: 3
    No worries there, car hasn't moved since!
    Waiting for parts to arrive ... :(

  • djt_jettadjt_jetta Posts: 3
    My mechanic told me not to worry 'bout the CPS.
    For his sake, I hope I'm right! :mad:

    Thanks for the advice!

    PS I don't know many VW owners that don't have a constant CEL to guide them on their way.
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8 Turbo 5-speed manual. I have had nothing but trouble since I bought it. 27 Times in the shop for CEL. Only had car since Nov 2007 :sick: :lemon: Anyway my question CEL is on again diagnosis O2 sensor fuel too lean blah blah blah, does anyone know which is the Bank one O2 sensor? I want to buy the right one but I understand there is one before and one after Cat. If anyone knows please tell me. They are a little pricey and non returnable so I have to get it right the first time. Thanks!!!! And just a little message to all who have "driven and fell in love" BE VERY VERY CAREFUL!!! like all first loves it can cost you very very big!!! :)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    The sensor is not necessarily telling you that the sensor is bad.

    This assumption is kind of like assuming that the temperature guage is bad because it says your car is over heating. In my analogy, yes it could be a bad guage, but then again it could be that the engine is, in fact, too hot.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I suspect your MAF (MassAirFlow sensor) is the problem. I have seen it before on 2001s. ==> CLICK HERE AND READ IT
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    Take it from me "Kid" STAY AWAY!!!!!! BE VERY AFRAID!!!!!! :lemon: I too have bought my first car I am 25 though. I went to Hall Acura and the salesman talked me right into a 2001 VW Jetta Wolfsburg edition 5-speed manual tran. yeah it is "smokin hot" but I had mine exactly 1 week and then it happened the CEL NIGHTMARE BEGAN!!!!! The car has been in the shop 27+ times since I bought it in Nov 2007 and it still is not right. To this day it is sitting in my driveway once again BROKE DOWN!!!! :sick: :confuse: I have spent well over $2500.00 in repairs that are (wouldn't you know it?) :mad: not covered under the (what I was told) the BEST extended warranty money could buy. :mad: :mad: So play it safe stay away from VW's (at least the Jetta) and try honda or saturn or something like that. My Mom had bought me a Ford Probe for graduation. It was used but it was a beautiful car I had it for 6 years I put a small amount of work into it along with regular maintence and I sold it for $300.00 after I saw and was roped into the Jetta. I have never been so mad at myself. So really be careful and if you research on the computer all the car forums you will see that they are nothing but trouble. I hope I have saved you some heartache, and money. Good Luck Man!!!!
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    No I don't think so as I just paid $485.00 to have that replaced about 3 months ago. I know from the Computer checks it says the O2 sensor in bank one is bad and causing a miss fire. I just need to know which one is "bank one" Is it before the Cat or after it. Thanks though. I also paid #385.00 for new wires, plugs, filters, so on and so on this car is a CASH COW!!!! :mad: Soon I will have paid as much in repair bills as I paid for it, or should say am still paying for.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    O2 sensor DOES NOT cause misfire.... it is the other way around. A misfire can allow raw fuel into the exhaust thus cause the O2 sensor to read improperly.

    You would do well in heeding the above post warning you that it is most likely NOT the O2 sensor that is the problem.

    You are also mis-interpeting what "bank1" means. If you have a 4-cylinder engine - then there is only 1 bank. (sensor1 and sensor2)

    If you have the VR6 engine... then you would have 2 banks - each with 2 O2 sensors. (and 2 cats)

    In all cases, the sensor BEFORE the cat is monitoring the status of the engine and feeding back to the injectors. The sensor AFTER the cat is monitoring the efficency of the cat.

    Also, Just because you replaced somthing DOES NOT mean it is any good. A new part is untested and may be junk. That is why if you replace a part and it DOES NOT change anything, it is best to put the old part back in.

    Have you run the built-in catalytic converter efficency test?

    What about your engine-temparture sensor... if yours is NOT the green one, that may be your problem. (computer "thinks" the engine is too cold and injects too much fuel causing O2 sensor to flag a problem.)

    Yup - cars cost money to maintian, that is a fact of life. That is why I run my own diagnostics and do most of my own repairs.

    I can replace ALL my brakes and rotors for $200 in an afternoon using the very best components. A shop would cost me $800 and they would use cheep components.
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    Hey Man, Thanks. I know what you mean. I want to fix it when I am sure which one it is. I am sorry I miss spoke I do know the computer diag. said bank one O2 sensor reading too lean and then the other code was for the miss-fires so thank you for letting me know the correct sequence. I have a 1.8 4cyl Turbo. I am not sure what you mean about "the green one" What do I need to look for to check that? I do know that new parts can go bad but after the Mas was fixed I did not have anymore of the problems or codes that I had with that so I am pretty sure (I hope) that it is ok. I want to buy the right sensor. Do you know if there is a difference between the two? I am pretty sure there are. I use to work on my own car all the time when we had two fords. My mom had an escort GT and I had a Probe. Working on those was a piece of cake. The VW engine is all sealed up and it freaks me out. Plus the Extended Warranty people say if you mess it up it will mess up or void the Warranty. I am beginning to think that would not be bad because every time I have the car in the shop it is something that is NOT COVERED :mad: Tends to tick you off after awhile if you know what I mean. Anyway thanks again for your help and if you know which one I should replace could you let me know Thanks.
  • mummerymummery Posts: 2
    it's been at the VW garage where they have now logged 15 hous of diagnostic time with no results.
    when it first occured there was a strong electical burning smell?? I would have assumed the VW tech's would have figured it out by now. with no luck I'm hoping someone out there may have come across this unique problem - thanks
  • sroonsroon Posts: 1
    I have an 07 Jetta Wolfsberg w/ 67000 miles. I bought it new & have had it maintained by the dealer. Recently, I noticed the radiator fan spins loudly while I am driving & remains on after I shut the car off. I also have a light in the tach lit telling me an exterior light is out..I can't figure out which. I'm taking the car in to the dealer this friday. The radiator fluid seems ok. My questions are:
    1. What is causing the radiator issue?
    2. When will the car require major maintenance (timing belt, etc). I put 60k miles on it in 2 years (30k/yr) but the rate has decreased to 15k-20k/yr.
    3. Can I expect the car to last another 100k miles with routine dealer maintenace?
    4. Are there any things I should be on the lookout for?
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