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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    Hey bpeebles. Do you happen to know hich the bank 1 sensor is. I am trying to buy the right one so I can change it. You are right it is certainly cheaper to fix it yourself. Thank for all your help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have already told you that your 1.8T engine only has one "bank". ("bank" of cylinders) There are 2 O2 sensors in the exhaust-system of the "bank".

    I have the VW factory shop manual open in front of me for your 2001 1.8T engine and it tells me the following:

    Sensor1 is BEFORE the catalytic converter.
    Sensor2 is AFTER the catalytic converter.

    I think that answers your question.
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    We replaced the o2 sensor it was really bad. We reset the CEL and test drove the car it is still running rough. Now when you drive the car the CEL blinks but when it is sitting at an idle the light does not come on. I got a code 17523 and when I checked the u280 memo scanner it says there is a problem in the "ground". We used a universal o2 sensor for the 2001 Jetta 1.8 turbo. It also gave have the miss fire code again too. I also found out I got some bad gas and bad advise from Checkered Flag VW in VA. They said you did not have to burn premium gas it did not matter but it obviously does because the guy who worked on the car for me said a lot of the problems came from burning the wrong fuel. I won't make that mistake again. So if you could please help me with these other things mostly the blinking CEL I would appreciate it. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,602
    That code is for the sensor before the catalyst. Sensors from chain stores sometimes don't work correctly. Using a lower octane fuel is an unlikely cause of your troubles. Don't drive the car with a blinking CEL by the way.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • mospeed15mospeed15 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2005 Jetta for my daughter for the safety features. We won't get a chance to check the maintenance record because she was T-Boned on Friday evening. The Jetta performed as advertised as she and her two passengers came out injury free. I'll look for another to replace it.
  • moe313moe313 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Jetta TDI 1.9 auto tranny. I fried the engine and need to replace it. Con someone give me an idea of how time it takes to remove and replace the engine and what the approx cost will be
    labor only
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    I ended up calling Bosch and they told me the universal sensor would not work on my car. Too little too late as I can not return the other sensor because we put it on the car. But I did get the right one. The exact one Bosch told me to get and they even told me what store in my area had the one I needed so that was great help. I suspected the blinking CEL was bad news and not to drive it. I put it right back up on the ramps. I got the new sensor and as soon as the rain stops we will go put it in and hopefully it will be the answer. I am just so tapped out with all the repair money I have spent on this car. Thanks for your help. I will let you know if this answers my problem. Oh by the way you mentioned the fuel so do you think if everything goes I could just drive this fuel out? Everyone keeps telling me I should siphon it and then put fuel cleaner and premium gas. Do I need to go this route or just next time put premium or mid-grade? It has about a half tank of gas now. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,602
    You car's computer can adjust for lower grade fuel. The car won't run as strong but gasoline is gasoline, and I can't see it screwing anything up unless it was, of course, abominably filthy gasoline--contaminated. If you want you can add some octane boost to the tank you have, or just top off with premium. Then after all your problems are over, you can experiment with mid-range gasoline and see if you don't mind the decrease in performance (acceleration) and perhaps a drop in fuel mileage.

    Personally I see no reason to stop using premium .

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    15 hours according to something called "Auto Repair Reference Center", that my library makes availble to me online. So I'd guess probably about $1000 to $1500, depending on what labor rate you will pay.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,602
    Is it seized or knocking horribly? If neither, you might not have to yank it to fix it.

    yep about 15 hours, jeffyscott is exactly right, and around $4000 for a new long block. So here in California, if you include new radiator, hoses and belts (which you should do), given our high labor rates, this job could over $6000 bucks. Hopefully you might have access to a good used engine ?? or lower labor rates.

    At the $6000 range the car is approaching a total, so you should plan this operation carefully and try to control your costs or at least shop around and see what 2001s are going for in your area---in other words just replace the car. I'm seein' prices around $8000 asking in the SF Bay Area, so figure $7500 to buy a decent one.

    It depends a lot on what shape your car is in, mileage on it, etc.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    Mr Shiftright or bpeebles I am in need of some more of your expertise. I have finally replaced the sensor with the right one and all the sensor codes have cleared except I am still getting a cylinder 1 miss-fire. I was told I probably need to replace the coil pack on the #1 plug but I am not sure if that is it or not. I had the plugs and the coil packs replaced it cost me $489.00. There is 70,000 miles on the car it has a 1.8 turbo. Can you advise me on this miss-fire code? Thanks. Also can you replace one "coil" and one plug. We checked the plugs and they look fine. The plugs I just had changed again when I did the normal maintence stuff like the filters, engine flush, plugs, oil change with filter (that I faithfully due every 3000) . Injector cleaned so on and so on. The guy who worked on the sensor for me said he thinks you can replace just one.
  • ndmike88ndmike88 Posts: 155
    How did you fry the motor???
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is obvious to me that the next logical troubleshooting step is to SWAP the #1 ignitor with another one.... see if the problem follows the ignitor.

    Dont forget to reset all codes after swapping the components. Obviously, if the errorcode stays with the #1 cylinder... the ignitor is not the problem.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    TDI engines are generally pretty bulletproof if you keep the proper 505.00 oil in it. Please tell us how you "fried" a TDI engine.

    I understand why you would like fix it... hard to beat 50+ MPG.

    Have you checked out this place that offers rebuilt/used engines?
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    1 your reported radiator fan behavior is operation as designed for many modern vehicles. Maybe 07 jetta is one of those. Fwiw, My 06 TDI jetta does not run cooling van after key removed, nor did my most recent gas-powered VW, a 1965 Beetle.
    1b The indicator about exterior light can be interesting. My 06 is illuminating that one intermittently - seems like one of the front DRLs is intermittently working on my car. Can you have someone examine all the lights at night-time as well as day-time, while car is running and you hit the brakes and test all signals/headlights?
    2 major maintenance will be required (N-67000)/R years from now, where R
    is whichever rate you report above in miles/year, and N is the service interval from your owners manual, in miles. My 06 owners manual might have a gasser section ..I think your car has 1.8T engine... I'll look it up for you if you want, but hopefully you have the correct 07 owners manual.
    3 I do not know.
    4. Oh yes. Way beyond the scope of vehicles, however.
  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    Don't take this question the wrong way as I know you are obviously well educated in the car repair sector but I read somewhere another forum or maybe even somewhere else in this forum that a guy got the same advice and when he did that his car would not even turn over. He said he had started out with a miss-fire or something and switched the coil packs around and after he did that the car would not even start even after he put them back the right way. So you can see my concern. I don't know if he screwed it up some how or what but I just don't want that happening to me. I also heard that VW recalled the coil packs on the 01 jetta 1.8 turbo but I had had them replaced (at the dealers insistence) and the job cost me $489.00 and I really can't afford that again. I did find the coil packs on line at a website called ECS Tuning for $31.00 each or $136.00 for four and they said they are the ones VW is using to replace the recalled ones. Thanks for all your help you are saving me a lot. With all the recalls VW has done on the 01 jettas and audi's it is obvious they screwed up with the original plans. I hope they have learned from this.
  • oemac411oemac411 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 VW Jetta 1.8T with the same issue. I have tried to ignore it for some time but it seems to be happening more often. It started with the ABS light coming on in the middle of driving and it seemed to stop/kick and start while going down the road. Now the clock is reset when I get in the car and occasionally it stops and completely shuts down at lights. Once I turn it off and restart the engine it seems to be fine. :confuse:
    Please lmk if you find the solution and how much it cost you. I will continue to research.
    Thank you.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I cant speak for what that "other guy" did... but swapping identical components is a well-entrenched troubleshooting technique that has workd for over 50 years.

    If you have the ignition turned OFF when you swap ignitors, there is absolutely no damage you can do. (assuming you dont DROP or ESD one of them in the process.)

    Think of it this way... what is the difference between SWAPPING a couple ignitors - or REPLACING them? (Answer.... cost!)

    BTW: The "recalled" coil-packs was not due to VW mistake... the vendor who was contracted to build them took some shortcuts during the buid-process. VW ended up "eating" the cost to replace them. (I would assume VW dealt with that vendor approprately to recoup their losses)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Maybe he swapped the ignition wires along with the coil packs and messed up the firing order?
  • sukylesukyle Posts: 1
    Hi, I would really appreciate any help anyone can offer. I will try to keep this as simple and short as possible. So, I have a 2009 Jetta SE with 4,000 miles on. On Saturday I was parked with the flashers on. I came back to my car, which was off, and the flasher lights were frozen on - so they were lit up. In addition, the radio would not turn off. I started the car, thinking this would do the trick. No luck. Then, I noticed that all of the gear lights were lit up - instead of only having the gear that I had selected lit up.

    I promptly called service and took the car in. When I got there, the AC stopped working and the fan was like the sound of a jet engine - I am guessing it went into protection mode of some sort.

    So far service has stated they have no idea what is the problem. All of the computer parts check out fine. They have a specialist looking at it now, but I just got off the phone and he is still stumped.

    Has anyone ever heard of anything like this?
  • msillohmsilloh Posts: 1
    Battery was dead, jumped it & drove to work (2 miles). Needed to be jumped to get home & again next day. Went home & mildly cleaned off corrosion from battery post. Noticed the small fan was still running after car had been off for 45 min. Pulled fuse for fan & it turned off. Next morning car started, no jump. Small fan turning on/off but large fan still not kicking on. Replaced 30amp fuse on battery, nothing. Tried to disconnect battery to reset computer. After an hour, plugged it back up & car was dead, jumped it & drove for an hour, no troubles cept for A/C. Got home turned car off, went to unlock doors & lights flickered, clock reset, battery drained AGAIN. Next morning, wouldn’t even jump. Had battery tested, good but had corrosion. Replaced terminals & wire to fuse box. Car started right up, no problems, but still no a/c! Clutch is not engaging. Freon has been checked & is good. I was told it was "electrical". Can someone help me w/ a diagram of fuses/relays/modules that could be related & how to test them to find where problem is coming from?

    Let me add about a month ago, I had coolant temp sensor replaced because CEL came on. A/C worked before & after sensor was replaced.

    Thank you in advance - any advice is helpful!

  • sphinx1983sphinx1983 Posts: 12
    bpeebles or Mr. Shiftright I had put in the new coil and everything was fine after I change the o2 sensor and the coil pack. It has been running great for the last few days. I drove it out to chesapeake today and when I got back home that pain in the A-- light popped back on. here is the list of codes it gave me 17608 fuel too rich, 17544 fuel too lean???? 18010 batty term B+? 16684 random miss fire, 16685 cyl 1 miss fire, 16686 cyl 2 missfire. I checked as much as I could. I did not drain the old gas out though so I don't know if that matters but after I fixed all the other stuff I had no more problems until tonight. Can you help me out again?? And how can fuel be too rich and too lean at the same time. Thanks for your help again. The Elizabeth River is looking pretty good about now if you know what I am sying. Thanks again. I will be looking for your answer as you have not steered me wrong on anything in the past. Thanks man
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have seen too-lean/too-rich codes at same time... it was the MAF sensor which was sending bad info to the computer.

    HOWEVER: With all the goofy codes you are seeing, I would suspect that there may be a GROUND problem. Only a ground-problem could influence so many disparate systems.

    If I were working on that car, I would start by spending about an hour removing, cleaning, soldering, filing, checking every ground connection to the body I could find. I would pay close attention to the battery-engine, battery-body, and computer grounds.
  • Hi there.

    I have an 03 jetta automatic with 59k miles. Probably at around 52k miles the car gradually began making squeaking noises. i doubted it was me since the car overall has been ok. however, the squeak got so loud it almost has become embarrassing. i can only hear it when i'm driving at low speeds - upto 20 mph or so. i thought it was the brakes but they said the original front and rear still have a good 50% left. however, when they jacked up the car and just rotated the wheels, the squeak was loud and clear. they seem to think it's the rotors. do you agree that this is all it is?

    next, i have a grinding kind of noise every time i hit a speed bump or am driving down my drive way onto the street - there is a slight elevation from street onto driveway. it makes sort of a crunch noise. i can force this to happen when i bounce the car up and down on the hood. once i applied some wd-40 in the door hinge and that seemed to help a bit. does anyone know what i need to do to get rid of these noises?

    work i've had to do on the car include:
    - replace wheel bearing - barely covered under warranty period
    - brake light switch <-- retarded problem - covered by recall
    - check engine light due to coolant temperature system and thermostat - $150 fix

    i don't want to have any more out of pocket repairs! maintenance is ok.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is possible that you have sticking pads which may APPEAR that the outer pads are fine while the inner pads are worn thin. The only way to find out is to pull everything apart and look.

    Rotors by themselves CANNOT make any noise... they just spin around. Somthing must be touching/rubbing on a rotor for noise to be generated.

    It sounds to me that your brakes need a PM (Preventive Maintenance).

    It would not hurt to pull the wheels and remove the brake-pads. Clean everything up with wire brush. Check that the dust-shield is not rubbing on the rotors.File any burrs from the caliper-guides. apply brake-grease and reassemble.

    Oftentimes, by doing this, you may resolve issues such as what you are describing.

    I PM the brakes on my cars every couple of years to keep things working well. The salt used on the roads can really rust-up the brake-works long before pads are worn out.
  • hm. interesting. i'll give that a shot. i guess i've driven the car with the current sets of brakes through 7 years of snow.
  • Ok, please excuse me if I don't get the names on all the parts hubby takes care of the cars and I'm trying to get info for him. About 2 months ago we replaced his cars plugs...the guy replacing the plugs ripped the wires so we replaced the wires. Prior to that they hooked it up to one of those machines that is supposed to tell you where the problem is and it was said it was in the #2 spot. Of course after everything was replaced no problems. A couple weeks ago the clutch went and they replaced the clutch. On the first test drive however the car overheated and when they hooked it up again it again said it was the #2 spot. We have replaced the plug and it was fine but last night it started again. He replaced the wire (I believe just the one wire) but it still wont run right and its still saying its the #2 one...does anyone have any advice. I don't know about cars but my husband is saying he thinks his engine is blown. Please help!!!!!
  • mahnteemahntee Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Jetta 1.8t automatic and I need to replace the transmission. Where can I get a used, and can I do it myself? Also I need to replace the exhaust manifold gasket as well. Help.

    I live in South Utah County.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If it is not the sparkplug nor the wire... then the ignitor coil is the only thing left in the circuit.

    Oftentimes, crud built up on the surface of the coil can cause problems. It may be worthwile to REMOVE AND CLEAN the coil in hot soapy water. (I use an old dishpan, dishsoap and toothbrush for this.) Rinse well and allow to dry in the sun. Inspect for cracks (the most common failure-mode for an ignition coil) Some folks have had good luck sealing cracks with automotive silicone sealant.

    Given the price of an ignition-coil, it may be worth the effort to try.
  • ealbs21ealbs21 Posts: 1
    My Automatic 2005 Jetta which i recently bought from a VW dealership, has a huge issue going from reverse to drive. The car jerks and bucks slightly every time i put the car into drive. Sometimes the RPMs go up and the car doesn't go anywhere and then suddenly jerks forward or it doesn't catch at all and just glides until i pull over and restart it. The dealership says the computer is Fine and the car is working normally and couldn't duplicate the problem but that its normal for jettas to do this.It doesnt happen all the time and doesn't depend on the temperature. Anyone else heard of issues like this or have any ideas because im having trouble believing all Jettas have this problem.
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