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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,907
    The vibration could be a simple tire-out-of-balance situation.

    Where is the whining noise coming from, and does it happen on all kinds of road surfaces (could be tire noise)?
  • i just got a 97 jetta and my speedo does the same thing. how do you fix this?
  • 01tdi01tdi Posts: 16
    Well apparently there is no one in the area that will touch a vw transmission. Stupid transmission specialty shops wont even get one off a totaled car and hook it up for me. Just my luck, there is a dealer about 40 minutes away and a shop that will probably do it about 50 minutes away (family friend who changed the transmission on our civic). As for rebuilding it, there is no one in the area that can, so I would have to pay about 300 bucks just for shipping it off to a place to have it done. I have not even put 100 miles on the stupid car and I am already fed up with it. Mainly because of the service from the place that sold me the car is a little family owned POS and the employees (all family or friends) think they can do whatever they want because they can not be fired. I filled out a complaint with the BBB. Anyone in southern Pa. stay clear of Garry's Auto Sales Inc.

    I am wondering if they put something like engine honey in the transmission to muffle any problems. One of my friends recently got a car and this was done to it and the engine ran like crap until it warmed up and the 'engine honey' thinned out a little bit.

    Well anyway sorry about my SOB story just needed to get a little steam off my chest.

    just trying to figure out what comes next. I will probably drive the car how it is for a while. I will try and get the fluid and filter changed and that leak sealed to see if that helps at all. For now I just put the car in neutral when I am costing. I try not to let the car downshift a lot because that is there the problems seem to arise. Other than that it drives pretty well. I think I can keep the trans in good enough condition to save up for a beater car. Who knows we will see I will try and keep you updated.
  • Sorry for all your trouble. I bet the car was like that when you bought it. I'm a used car dealers biggest nightmare. I have no problem telling them their car is crap and has problems. It amazes me how they don't care. Parts missing, parts not installed, things not working. When I take the car out for a test drive, I run the hell out of it. Even if the sales dude comes along.

    Feel free to vent all you want.

    What's next? You will have to source a transmission. Plenty of them out there on the net. Check out prices and warranty. Like the one I posted for you, the shipping was reasonable. Then you will have to find a shop that will put it in for you. For something this big, make the road trip to a shop that you feel good about doing the job.

    What about taking your car to them to have the trans checked out? Road trip, I know but you could come away with a lot of good info.

  • JSS,

    Your car is new. Have you taken it back to VW? Can you reproduced the metallic rattling with the A/C off? How about when you turn right?

    Where do you think the whining noise is coming from? Under hood, IP, wheels.

    Backy is right, I would check out the balance, as well as, the tires and rims. Drive shaft and/or wheel bearing can give you vibration and noise as well. But your car is very new.

  • 01tdi01tdi Posts: 16
    Yeah that is what I plan on doing, The mechanic that my dad uses all the was in upstate NY specializes in audi and has quite a few vw. Right now he is rebuilding a New Beetle diesel for personal use. They seem to think it is the valve assembly in the transmission, I forget what it is called at the time. I have done a little bit of checking and this seems to be a reasonable fix. A read a few other posts where the same kind of grabbing and slipping when the engine is cold happens and was fixed like this. The final price on it from them was $1200 bucks. Does not seem too expensive, but if I can get the entire transmission rebuilt for not much more I will have them do that just to make sure there is nothing to worry about. I assume that the replacement of this valve includes new vw approved trans fluid. I will also ask them to replace the filter. They said they would look over the electronics too and help me out with a few small problems I am having. Stuff like no matter what CD I put in the cd player it reads cd err and spits it back out. I even bout a couple new cd's just to see if mine were too scratched up, no luck though. They also said they would turn off the alarm system so my neighbors cats wont keep setting it off in the middle of the night, and would check to see if the computer was throwing any codes.

    This seems like a pretty good price to me, and they will help me out a little more since they know my dad. However the place is like a 6 hour drive from here so I will have to drive the car as is for a little while until I get time to take it up there for however long it is going to take them to do all this work.
  • can anyone tell me how to remove the intake manifold on this motor. Have a diagram maybe?
  • tdrewketdrewke Posts: 1
    Just had my water pump replaced under VW warranty (I had the VW Certified Used warranty) and they did the timing belt while they had it apart. A few days later I was driving at night (about 45 minutes worth of NYC-area traffic, plenty hot, 86 degrees outside) and suddenly the lighting on the HVAC panel fades, then the main instrument cluster dims, then the ABS and the air bag lights come on, then all panel lighting and headlights dim to black. Engine is running fine, not even rough. What an odd feeling. I would have thought if the electrical system went bad, the engine would also fail. I stopped at a traffic light and a minute later, all lights came back on by themselves.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Stright6 in a VW?? Are you certain you are not dealing with the VR6 engine?
  • Have you had the battery checked?
    Free at Autozone.
    Loose or corroded connections on battery.
    Loose belt on alternator.
    Bad alternator.
    Bad diodes in alternator.
    Bad dashboard dimmer switch.

    These are the things I would look at.

    Might be other things that other people might come up with that is more specific to VW.
  • Thanks so much for the advice Tracy,

    We took the car to a different mechanic and he replaced the plugs and wires. The car ran great for about 100 miles and then went totally haywire. The mechanic says that there are about 10 different codes in it now. If we can't get it running, I guess I'll have to have towed back home (yuck).

    The P0606 code said a PCM processor fault. I'll have to try and narrow down the clicking.

    It sounds like the ECU may be a good place to start.

    Thanks again...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Sounds like a bad ground somewhere... a 2002 may be old enough to require having the ground-connections cleaned up. (especially check the power/ground connections to the ECU)
  • vwnikvwnik Posts: 1
    i changed my belts and it seemed to run great after driving it for a while i noticed it slow to start. a while after that it started bucking when i let the gas off and will continue to buck until the pedal is let out all the way or if i start to give it gas again. i also added a fuel injector cleaner that day. what is going on?
  • I'm a new Jetta TDI owner -- love the car -- but encountering a couple of issues and wonder if someone has experience or knowledge of them.

    First, my automatic transmission makes a slight but percteptible thud as it downshhifts into first gear when I stop. I took it to VW service, and they told me that all the electronics on the transmission check out fine. They will not say if this "thud" is typical or not, or if it should be happening at all.

    Anyone have experience with this '09 six speed automatic? What should I expect?

    Second, on two occasions I have turned off the engine only to have the fan continue to run at high speed. In each casse, after waiting about three minutes, with fan still whirring, I re-started and shut down the engine and the fan stopped.

    Is it normal for the fan to do this?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Second, on two occasions I have turned off the engine only to have the fan continue to run at high speed. In each casse, after waiting about three minutes, with fan still whirring, I re-started and shut down the engine and the fan stopped.

    We had that happen a few times on our gas Jetta 2.5. Then we had CEL on with the code 2181 and there was some pretty extensive and expensive ($600-800, IIRC) repairing done (under warranty) to some cooling system sensor(s) and associated wiring harness(es). I figured the fan staying on was related to the failing parts that eventually set off the CEL. The fan has not done this again in the 6 months since the repair.
  • Mud,

    Grounds would definitely be a thing to check. You wouldn't think it would cause so much trouble, but they do. I'm not sure if the ECU is self grounding or not. If it is, you will have to clean up the contact points. It's probably the mounting bolts. Over the years they can corrode. If not, then it is grounded through a wire coming into the unit.

    Check around for a shop (to include VW) that can check the ECU. The check would rule out or confirm the ECU is bad.

  • Thanks again - I'll definitely pass this along. Right now they are thinking that I need a new computer, but I'll certainly ask them to check the grounds. I did hit a deer about a month or so before this starting happening. I wonder if it could have knocked something loose?

    Well, I'm off to try and figure out where the heck an ECU is on this car? This sounds silly (sorry), but can you take the ECU out of the car and take it somewhere to get checked? I would surely rather do that before I buy a new one.

    Thanks again! :)
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    The second "issue" that you have can be quite normal actually. Depending on how you were driving, the fans may run in order to cool the turbo down after shutting off the car to prevent damage to it. The fans may run for about five minutes or so, then shut off automatically. I believe there may be a section in the manual regarding this.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    completely normal for fan to run until the thermal sensor is satisfied that things are cooled off.

    HOWEVER: I would not expect this to happen very often except in extremely hot weather or you did not allow the proper cooldown of the turbocharger.

    REMINDER: With a turbocharged engine, it is ESSENTUAL that you allow engine to idle for awhile to circulate cooled oil thru the turbocharger before shutting off. This is especially true when you pull off highway traveling 65+ MPH into a "rest area". turbocharger can be RED HOT at that point!! If you do not allow idle-time for turbocharger to cool off, the bearings can 'cook' without flow of fresh oil for several minutes.

    Personally, I always watch the clock and allow 2 full minutes of idle-time when I pull into rest-area before shutting down.

    Do not forget... unlike some other turbocharged engines (Subaru).... the TDI turbocharger is OIL OOLED ONLY.. (not watercooled)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The fans alone CANNOT cool the turbocharger because the turbocharger is oil-cooled. Engine must be running to circulate the cooled oil thru the turbo bearings.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Most (all) of the ECU diags can and should be done with ECU in the vehicle. There is a data-access-port on all vehicles. (federal law)

    Do not forget that the ECU is covered by the Federal Emmissions Warantee which may be 100,000 miles on your 2002.

    I cannot stress enough that yours is most likely a ground problem. A ground is perhaps the ONLY thing that can cause multiple - simoutainious errors. All the sensors that feed the ECU and all the outputs from the ECU rely on GROUND being solid and well-connected everywhere.

    Personally, I remove and solder EVERY ground connection in my cars. I also file-clean to shiney metal every ground holddown point. Why do I do this? I am trained in electronics and know what a bad ground can do to a computer system in a car.
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    Thanks, that's good to know. I think one time when it was very hot out, the engine was still running after I shut the car off, along with the fans. Wasn't sure what to think about that, this clears things up for me.
  • Thanks to bpeebles and others who provided useful information about cooling the turbocharger.
  • cgar23cgar23 Posts: 4
    2003 1.8T

    The other day all the coolant leaked out, I noticed this hose seems to be broken (see pics) where there was a connector or plastic piece of some kind between two clamps. Can someone please help me identify the part and let me know if I just replace it and fill er back up with coolant will everything be good to go? Thanks so much!

    Images here:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    man - your engine-bay is dirty. I use soap and a brush to clean engine-bay annually every spring.

    As for your problem - I am not familear enough with the 1.8T engine. I am sure any VW dealership would have diagrams of the components. (or a car on the lot you could look at)

    To answer your question if everything will be OK.... I would say YES - provided that you did not drive without coolant in the engine.

    IMPORTANT: You *must* use only G12 coolant in that engine. In fact, your last photo shows this fact on the resivour. (The icons mean READ THE MANUAL ans USE G12)
  • cgar23cgar23 Posts: 4
    Yeah, I know it. I gotta wait for it to cool down a bit before I take on that job (in AZ).

    I'm pretty far away from the dealer so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction and am hoping to order the piece. It just looks like a connector of some sort, perhaps so the whole hose doesn't have to be replaced? The connections on either end (one in the back of the engine, one up under the front) look like they might be a bit harder to replace...

    Thanks for the tip on the G12. I was aware of that and won't use anything else. Thanks for the response!
  • Go to your local auto parts store. I prefer Autozone. I work there so I get a discount.

    Just ask for a hose connector for the right inside diameter of your hose.

    Open the clamps pull out old plastic parts and then put in a new plastic part.

    Should be real easy since you can get to it right off.

    Looks as if someone before you had a hose that they cut and put in the connector.

    They might have done this to flush the system.

    You could use a t connector to allow access for a flush at a future time.
  • vtvwvtvw Posts: 1
    The exact part broke on my 04 Jetta last week. The part number is 1J0-122-063-A. It is a length of hose with the connector on it. The hose will connect in the front of the engine. It took me less than a half hour to do the job. The cost of the hose with connector was $25 with tax at the dealer. I got the coolant off the internet for $12.75 a bottle. I received it yesterday. For some reason the coolant/distilled water mixture is taking a little while for it to get back into the system.
  • cgar23cgar23 Posts: 4
    OK, got the part and filled it back up...easy. Same thing seems to be happening with me as far as getting the coolant back into the system. It sounds like there's some air in the lines as well and it makes some gurgling sounds after the engine runs. Did yours just work itself out? Is there a bleeder valve for the air somewhere? Do I need to run it with the cap off the tank? Thanks again for the part number, that made things simple.
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