Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    i'd start by getting the O2 sensor error(s) cleared, possibly by swapping in new O2 sensor(s) .
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Well given that there are technicians out there who can take a totally smashed up Jetta and make it go straight again, I hope you can find a highly competent alignment shop that will go the extra mile for you and figure this out. With today's modern alignment equipment, I can't imagine a car that's not alignable unless it was severely damaged to the point where none of the adjustments can bring it back.

    Cupping is generally a suspension issue--this should be fixable. Maybe you need to go to a really good collision shop and get on a frame machine and see what the heck is going on here.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • nitekim,

    I would start with the misfires. Misfires will cause the O2's to kick on. Been there, done that. Could be as simple as plugs. Could be the Control Mod. has a serious issue, but I think that's a long shot.

    Have the plugs ever been replaced? How about the wires, or ignition coil?

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    "I can't imagine a car that's not alignable unless it was severely damaged to the point where none of the adjustments can bring it back."

    Even then, whatever parts are damaged should have been replaced, so that it would be able to be properly aligned. Rebuilding the entire front end would have cost less than $3500 wouldn't it? I know my kid spent less than that on new front springs, struts, bearings, and axles on his '96 Jetta. (of course he also wore out two tires in about 6000 miles...evenly though, no cupping or anything)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Well I was thinking of a case where the unibody was tweaked so badly that it couldn't be know, like "crabbing".

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Don't they have ways of straightening the "frame" though? (I've no idea what the cost of that would be)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Oh sure they can straighten anything, pretty much.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I already bought the parts I need, just have to get them put into my car. I have a 1998 VW Jetta GL and have to get my plenum gasket and valve cover gasket replaced. I don't want to get ripped off so how much should I expect to pay?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You asked where to start... I have been troubleshooting and fixing electronics over 30 years and here is my initial diagnosis.

    1) Obviously these are not ALL happening at once (they are symptoms of the REAL problem so DO NOT start chasing all those codes)
    2) Validate you do not have the dreaded coolant migration issue which wicks antifreeze into the entire electrical system.
    3) Suspect a bad ground somewhere (becasue only a GROUND can affect so many things at the same time)
    4)Use VagCom to monitor/graph O2 sensors while you drive (there is one BEFORE and one AFTER the cat.)
  • Has anyone else encountered this? My 2003 Jetta will not start when it is colder than 25 degrees Farenheit. It will crank and crank but not start. It is so frustrating when I have to get to work. Took it to the mechanic, he replaced a hose and said it should be fine but it wasn't. I always keep the tank full of gas and put "Heat" in the gas tank as well. Please any mechanics or anyone who has experienced this!

    It is a gas engine, battery is only 2 years old. I looked up on Edmunds and it said something about the ETC sensor going bad on the Jettas but there was no further information. If I take it to my mechanic, even if it is not the same conditions (freezing) can he check the sensor? I am almost done paying this stupid car off and would LOVE to keep it until it dies basically. VW's are supposed to last forever!
  • I have a 2003 Jetta Wagon - the overall length of my wagon is 33mm longer than the sedan. I'm buying exhaust parts online but no one offers "wagon" as a choice for car model. Does anyone know if an exhaust system for a wagon is the same for a sedan given the overall car length is only 33mm difference. Wheel base is only 3mm difference! I would like to know before I buy the parts.
  • I hit a massive pot hole at about 20k miles. I had to replace the a wheel and have the alignment fixed. But that's when the problems started happening...
    As for the $3500....thats from god knows how many alignments, 3 sets of tires, and so called expert opinions from several so called experts. I'm so fed up with how the dealership tells me I'm off my rocker and how the car continues to eat up tires. I loved my Jetta ... but now I'd just love to get rid of it. I was curious if anyone had encounter this similar problem of cronically cupping tires and alignment.

    Thanks for the input though! Appreciate it
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    I just changed oil and filter on my 09 Jetta Tdi Wagon.
    Tools needed: T-25 and T-30 torx (to remove 9 x T-25 and 3 x T-30 screws that hold the plastic undercoat). 32 mm or 1-1/4 box wrench to remove top oil filter housing (you will need an universal 1/2" joint, 5" extension 1/2" drive because it's a tight spot to get that pesky oil filter housing off). 19 mm box wrench to remove oil plug.
    Parts needed: Mann oil filter HU719/7X and 4 quarts of Castol Gold 507 00 synthetic oil.
    To reset the oil change interval display in your info.display (without going to the Dealer or without the need of the VAG COM re-setting instrument): Keys out of the ignition press and hold in trip odometer button 0.0 on your right. While still holding this button, insert key into ignition and put to the "on" position (without starting the car). Display will read "service now". Let go off "0.0" button and depress "m" or "min" button on the left side of the display. This will re-set the service reminder.

    Those handy enough can tackle this in less than 1/2 hour!

    Don't forget to recycle the used oil!

    Happy motoring!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    good idea to use German oil filters in German cars, IMO. No off-brands, in house brands, please.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Not sure what you are trying to say...
    To be technical about it, VW is "Mexican" car and Mann oil filter is actually manufactured in Czech Republic and is put in Skoda's cars - the factory in Mlada Boleslav, whose majority is owned by Germans. Castrol 507 00 (recommended by VW) is made in U.K. Germans don't have their own oil - not that I am aware of.
    In this day and age when car globalization is wide-spread it's hard to say what is "off brand". My VW Tdi, for example, is 35% German, 30% Mexican, 9% US/Canadian and the rest from elsewhere. It is assembled in Puebla, Mexico and the 35% of German items are mostly engine and a transmission.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    It's built to the VW factory spec is what I meant, not a copy of a VW filter that is reverse-engineered, or skimped on to market at a lower price.

    Or, to put it another way, if the brand is sold at VW dealers, it's probably fine.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    you are most welcome, gcrv44a. in your situation i too would be tempted to trade the car.
    also i wonder if your insurance company paid beyond-deductible portion of the $3500 in repairs - seems like it should/would be covered under either collision or comprehensive insurance?
  • Anyone have any suggestions for an 02 jetta battery drain. Aftermarket radio installed over three years ago. have the original monsoon amp. Car dies after sitting for more than 2 or 4 days. Recharges and then dies again. Tried alternator and also fuses one by one. Something is still draining a ton of energy from that battery. Any ideas for a fix? Could it be the fuse behind the radio? Heard there is a fuse there but haven't pulled radio yet. Love the car have over 190,000 miles on it. But now this ??
  • I know your problem was YEARS ago, but I am having same issue with my car now. DId you ever find out what drains the battery?
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    The only 2 things that I can think of is an alarm system or a bulb on in the trunk (had that problem with Saab - trunk light bulb was on and I did not see it because the trunk was closed). Some lights have 3 way switches, one of them keeps it on all the time. Not sure if Jetta sedan has one in the trunk - I happen to have a wagon.
  • amy28amy28 Posts: 2
    99.5 Jetta 2.0L 4-cylinder.....So I stopped to get gas today. I shut the car off and continued around the car to start getting gas and I heard this LOUD noise hoping that it was the car across the street unfortunately it wasn't. Having my key in the off position my engine was still running. I couldn't shut it off. Engine died and so did all the power lights, radio etc. Thought maybe I needed a jump! Nice try. Car started with the NO key in the ignition but didn't stay running for long. Has this every happened to anyone?
  • popadopolispopadopolis cnyPosts: 14
    Back in 2004 we purchased a new beetle and receive a recall notice shortly after. According to the recall, they claimed the monsoon amp was found to be powered up after shutting car off, causing constant battery drain resulting in a dead battery within a few days. Amp was replaced. Never experienced dead battery as car was driven every day. Perhaps you should have your amp checked for power with key off. Worth a try just to be sure. Let us know your findings.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    hello amy28. to answer your questions:
    #1 yes i have had car engines continue to run after turning off the ignition. it's called 'dieseling' or 'run-on' when it happens to a gas engine. "backfire" can occur along with it - possibly that was the LOUD noise you heard.
    i think actual diesel engines have fail-safe to prevent 'run-on' after key turned off (there's no ignition to turn off in a diesel engine).
    You mentioned that the engine wouldn't stop. Then you said engine died and power/lights etc went off. So it did stop after a bit, eh? (how long?)
    #2 No I have never seen any of my cars start without a key in the ignition but I understand such a thing is known as "hot wiring".
    If you have other/followup questions I am happy to consider them.
    best regards...
  • amy28amy28 Posts: 2
    I have had alot of wierd things happen with this car but this is by far the wierdest. I had it towed to the dealership, I will let you know what the out come is. Come to think of it the car did back-fire here a few weeks ago but I didn't think anything of it. I would say that the car ran for a good 20sec-1min after I shut it off. Also noticed round spot of oil under the car, just had an oil change about 3 weeks ago. When the jumper cables was applied to my battery than to my brother n laws the car started after about 10sec and it sounded really really bad, he said it sounds like it is about to throw a rod.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    hi Amy. hopefully the dealership can diagnose it for low $.
    From your description, one possibility is that the timing-belt/chain may have "slipped/skipped", resulting in the timing being "way off".
  • i have a 1999 and a1/2 vw jetta and it has a miss u cant notice it going down the road, but at idel u can definately hear it. check engine light is on and i cant get a code scan tool to uplink to my computer for some reason i need help this is my way back and fourth to college just replaced the cat. converter. and spark plugs, but with out the computer i cant diagnoise anything what do u guys think? about bolth problems
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    piglets2, I think a bad O2 sensor could cause those symptoms. maybe that's a low-$/easy part to swap.
  • ok i have a 1999 ans 1/2 vw jetta that i just bought and i can not get a code-scanner to uplink to the computer, but the previous owner said that the he had it took to the dealer ship, and they cleared the codes off the computer and when he got it back the radio was taken out. How do i get one to work on my car. dose my after market cd player have to be removed for some reason. what do u guys think? :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    YES... the radio in some VWs participates in the computer-uplink connection. It is often standard-practice to remove any aftermarket radio from VW before reading codes with computer. Infact, some aftermarket radio may burn-out the code-reader due to crossed connections.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Try disconnecting the MAF (MassAirFlow) sensor and drive it like that. The "miss" you are experiencing may go away.

    Disconnecting the MAF sensor forces the computer into "default" mode where most of the settings are forced to nominalized settings. (injection pulsewidth, ignition timing...etc)

    My daughters 2001 had been idling very rough and as soon as I popped the connector from the MAF... it smoothed right out. She has been driving like that for months.

    Also, if you have not cleaned your snowscreen within the past 12 months... do it! It gets dirty very quickly. I clean the snowscreen on all of my VWs at least annually and I am always amazed how plugged-up it is.
Sign In or Register to comment.