Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • The spark plugs and wires were replaced less than 2 years ago. I have never had the coil pack replaced though. Some of the codes went away several weeks ago but now I have new codes coming up now in addition to some of the old ones.

    Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

    Cyl.4 Misfire Detected

    Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Range/Performance

    Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too High

    Throttle Pos.Contr Malfunction

    I don't really understand what's going on. Some days the car will run fine and other days I think it's going to blow up on me.
  • NiteKim,

    I'm guessing that your Jetta is running reasonably well. How many miles?

    Years ago, I had the #1 spark plug go bad to the point that the engine wouldn't stay running. I think I had every engine code there was to have. Even though I had one bad plug, it tripped all kinds of codes. Plugs do go bad before there time.

    I still say the best place to start is the spark plugs. They are not expensive and are easy to replace. Check out the plug wires for any cuts, rips, holes, ect. Look for a whitish gray coating on the wires. If they are grounding out, you may get this. If you have a multimeter, you can check the resistance of the wires as well. Be VERY careful pulling the wires off the plugs. Best to use a special tool for this.

    I replaced my coil around 90K. Wasn't bad(no codes) but it was getting old. Simple part to replace and don't want to get stuck somewhere because of it.

    There are internal engine parts that can cause misfires, but think that your post would be much different if you had this.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    This kind of question comes up many times... the answer remains the same.... there is NO WAY that all these components will fail at the same time so you must focus on the ROOT problem. Ask yourself "what single item can cause all of these failures being flagged?"

    There are only about 2 answers;
    1)Poor electrical Power
    2)Poor electrical Ground

    HINT: Remove,clean and tighten EVERY electrical connection you can find under the hood. (disconnect battery 1st)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,496
    I agree. This is some kind of bogus connector, corroded pins, bad grounds, damaged harness, etc.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • well i know that i have 12 v at the # 16 pin so i have power but here in a couple of days but i dont know what any of the outher pins shoulde read, but i dint kno how to test anything farther than that? thanks :confuse:
  • ok i pulled the (MAF) sensor off the intake tube and all it did was run worse so that is not it i am leaning towards it being a sensor somewhere on the motor, but at this point i dont know what is wrong. without the computer it is like shooting an arrow at night. :confuse:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You said ==> "i pulled the (MAF) sensor off the intake tube "

    I hope you mean that you pulled the ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR from the MAF.... and did not remove the MAF itself from the intake-plenum.

    I know what you mean about shooting in the dark when you do not have a computer. That is why I simply hook up my laptop to my VW and run diagnostics with my VagCom WIth 3 VWs in the family, it paid for itself within a year by saving $50 each time a dealership runs diagnostics (regardless if they actually FIX anything or not)
  • thess02thess02 Posts: 32
    The codes you are showing indicate a possible bad throttle position sensor (TPS).
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Before replacing TPS, try re-synchronizing the throttle pedal to the throttlebody. Dont forget that many VWs use "fly-by-wire" throttle body. There is no traditional throttle-cable. Instead, there is a poteometer on the throttle-pedal which sends electronic signal to the throttle-body.

    As I recall, the procedure involves pushing throttle to floor then turning ignition-switch without starting engine. .... there is step-by-step procedure to do that on the internet.
  • Ok I have a 96 VW Jetta 2.0 The car was running great and one day Just Stalled and will not start. Checked the Plugs, I Got Spark, Checked the Fuel get Fuel up to the Fuel Pressure Valve. I Changed the Valve. and still No Start. I Checked the Signal to The wires of the Injector and they get Power..
    Can anyone tell me WHAT to Check Next I am Lost.
    Thank you in Advance
  • Ok I have a 96 VW Jetta 2.0 The car was running great and one day Just Stalled and will not start. Checked the Plugs, I Got Spark, Checked the Fuel, get Fuel up to the Fuel Pressure Valve. I Changed the pressure Valve. and still No Start. I Checked the Signal to The wires of the Injector and they get Power..
    Can anyone tell me WHAT to Check Next I am Lost.
    Thank you in Advance
  • Try changing the ignition coil.
    After market one may not last as long as one from VW.
    Though price for after market one is about half of one from VW.
    If you buy two after market ones and keep the second one in the trunk you should never be caught with a dead car out in the middle of nowhere,
    Or at the departure lane at the airport.
    That is where hers failed.
    Airport police were not too happy with that.
    Even thought she was picking up her brother as a favor since he locked his keys in his car as a TSA employee.

    Went through this with my daughters 98 Jetta.
    Even had Car-X say it was a fuel pump for $680.00 to repair.
    Import mechanic changed the coil out for $200 after it sat at the house for awhile I tried to change out the fuel pump. Fuel pump was good.
  • Thanks remarket
    We are getting spark to the spark plugs and we are getting Fuel into to the Fuel Rail
    We are getting Power to the Injectors. Still Will Not start
  • ALSO Checked the Injectors and No Gas came out
    What would cause all 4 not to work at the same time
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,147
    fuel pump malfunction?
    very clogged fuel line?
    very clogged fuel filter?
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Had a smiliar situation on my 2001 Saab 9-3 ... and indeed, it was a faulty fuel pump!
  • I am getting Fuel to the Fuel Rail The Gas is not cominh out of the Injectores...
    the Fuel Pump is working and I am getting great fuel pressure Up to the Fuel rail

    Still Looking for help
    Thanks in Advance
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If you are certain the fuel-pressure in the rail is within spec... then the problem is electrical power to the injectors.

    I assime you checked all the fuses and fusable-links. It is the engine-computer that controls injection signals to the injectors.

    Let me say that another way... the engine-computer sends the "signals" to the injectors but the bulk of the POWER comes from another source. Typically, +12 is CONSTANTLY fed to the injectors and the engine-computer momentarilly shorts the other side to GROUND to cause an injection-pulse.

    Check for +12 on all injectors.
  • edsueedsue Posts: 1
    :confuse: 1999 jetta at about 1 minute after starting tempature light comes on along with beep, then stays on for about 1 minute.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Sure sounds as if computer is detecting unexpected signal from engine-temp sensor.

    Some of the engine-temp sensors up till about 2001 were found to fail prematurly. The replacement component is different design (read "more reliable")

    On the 2.0L engine, this sensor is trivial to replace. I replaced one on my daughters car in the dark while she held the flashlight. (Dont forget to also replace the O-ring at same time.)

    Cost for temp-ensor and O-ring was about $15 when I had to get one.
  • well today in my auto course we hooked it up to a gesisus scantool and it asked us to verify a code that i did not have so i guess there is no existing problem with the computer but i do have to take it to vw, and pay 110$ to get them to hook their HUB to it and print me off the faults.
  • We were getting spark as well with damaged ignition coil.
    Apparently not enough voltage or not synchronized enough for German engineering.
    Change it out, see if it works. If so then you have found your problem.
    If not get a refund when you take it back.
    Just don't screw it down in place and then it is not considered installed.

    Or get one from a junk yard to try. If it works get a new one.
  • I am having troble with the driver seat. The adjusment for front to back movement will not catch except at the most forward or posterior position. How do I repair it? Does it require me taking the seat totally out or can I just remove the seat cushion to get to the mechanical parts?
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    You have to take the seat out - but - do not unplug the wires/cables as you may trigger the deployment of air bags. Do not remove seat cushions!
    In order to remove the seat, you have to get a special "star" socket (available at PepBoys or AutoTrack) and remove 4 bolts - two in front and two in rear - that hold seat rails. Then you flip the seat backwards (with rails attached) and see what's causing your problem.
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Sorry, my advice pertains to 09 VW Jetta... just noticed that you have 2002 - not sure, if my advice is applicable to your model year. I do not want to disseminate an incorrect information.
  • I have the same car. VW Jetta, 2002, the low-end version. It too now suffers this problem. I took the car to a mechanic who looked for a parasitic battery draw on the car after the key was taken out and he saw nothing drawing power. But, yet have a week of sitting without use, the battery tends to be drained and can't turn over the engine. Battery is only 1 year old. Anyone have any ideas ?
  • Golfergreen,

    I have had the same problem with my '00 Jetta. There is a metal pin that slides in and out of a sleeve. That's the adjustment. Pin out the seat will slide. When the seat is adjusted, the pin goes into a hole and your seat is locked in. Easiest way to fix this is to clean out the pin/sleeve assembly. A lot of dirt down there and it gets into the workings and causes the pin to stick. It does work itself loose. That's why it does go back into position all the way forward and back. You can snap up on the adjust handle, but that will only tear up stuff. Try cleaning the assy with some spray cleaner. I used dry lub after the pin was loose.

  • Hi folks, one of the headlights and tail lights of my 2001 Jetta does not work. Where should I turn to help? Where should I buy the bulbs? Is it possible to change it by myself?

    Thanks a lot!!
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,147
    headlight is a very common/standard bulb.
    any auto parts store has a little book / computer-thing that will tell you the exact model #. also it's listed in the owners manual.
    it's easy to replace too, a nifty/easy/suavely-engineered little plastic turn-the-cover-thingy makes it easy, but you do have to bend your wrist. be sure not to touch the bulb glass with bare fingers - oil from fingers can cause it to later crack.
    taillight is probably easy too - probably similar/easy to brakelight that i just swapped on 06 jetta. also a very common bulb.
  • I'm trying to help my sister, she has a 1998 VW Jetta GLS 4dr automatic trans. She's a single mother and just lost her job, so things are really tough right now and I want to help her for the holidays if I can.

    She came out to start her Jetta the other day and it started up but sputtered and died. If she continuously pumps the gas pedal the engine will run rough but will die the moment she stops pumping the gas pedal. I need to find an engine schematic so I can identify each component (fuel, ignition, electrical). I'm not a mechanic but very mechanically inclined and capable of fixing just about anything with a little guidance.

    Any suggestions as to where I should start? Does anyone know where I can find an online engine schematic.

    I'm very thankful for this forum.......Joey
Sign In or Register to comment.