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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Well, my point was not the interval, but rather that whether or not you are supposed to replace at 4 years is based on how many miles you drive in 6. It is just bizarre that they don't simply say "replace every 4 years or 40K miles".
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Must have been "lost in translation" - I would like to see that item in German language to see how they orignally translated it into English and then put that in user's handbook English version. Sometimes that pesky German language (especially technical language) is hard to translate precisely. I have done some of those here and there in my lifetime ...
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Maybe you can find a german maintenance schedule here: ;)
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    nope...not there... tried to get into their "blog" pages but even that is only for registered owners and you have to put the VIN number of your car (presumably purchased in Germany) in order to establish an account and be able to login.
    But I will look at one next time I am in Germany or Switzerland (next year, I hope).
    I don't have that many friends and relatives with German cars... most of them have Hondas, Citroens and Skodas... not sure why....
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I just noticed they don't have that language in the online schedule for 2007 models. It only appears for the 2006. It is also printed in the book for our 2005. VW does not actually let me look up the maintenance schedule for our 2005 on line, as apparently they are unaware that they made a Jetta with a 2.5 engine in the 2005 model year.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    In the MKIV VWs (1999 => 2004 ?) The SNOWSCREEN gets plugged up much more frequently than the air-filter. I clean my SNOWSCREEN at least 2x a year. It is almost completely plugged up every time.

    The snowscreen is a very fine mesh (like pantihose) about the size of the palm of your hand. ALL the air which the engine breathes has to come thru that little screen. It gets totally filled with bugs,fuzz, leaves and other detritus. Once it is plugged, there is a a spring-loaded safety valve which the engine "sucks" upen with intake vacuum to bypass the snowscreen.

    Link to video showing how to clean SNOWSCREEN
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Good advice. Thanks.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    possibly sparkplug wires insulation is degraded resulting in spark shorting to block or other ground.
    one possible way to diagnose that idea is to swap the plug wires.
    another way is to run the engine in a pitch-dark garage, or attempt to start it there. if my theory is correct you would see blue sparks/flashing in the engine compartment, possibly with an OK-running engine, and also in the case where it was damp and was failing to start.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Above advice is spot-on! Your problem is either sparkplug wires or the ignition-coil.

    Another approach is to use spritzer-bottle (Old windex bottle) with water in it. Gently 'mist' various ignition components while engine is idling. When you moisten the "trouble spot" the engine will begin to stumble and idle rough.

    The ignition-coil is quite expensive so you may wish to try to "fix" it in any way you can. If the problem is the coil, sometimes a layer of crud on the coil can cause this kind of problem to happen. You can remove the ignition-coil and wash it it in hot-soapy water (just like doing the dishes). An old toothbrush helps with this. Rinse well and dry it with hairdryer.

    Then inspect the coil for hairline cracks. Anyplace water can get in can cause problems. Some people have had luck with sealing the cracks by working some hi-temp silicone sealant into the cracks and let it cure.

    Before removing ignition-coil, draw yourself a diagram showing which plug wires go where!
  • My daughter was listening to the radio with the car off in my 2002 1.8T Jetta for about a half hour. The battery was dead so I jump started it. Now the EPC code is lit. Will it go out? Thanks!
  • stj1stj1 Posts: 2
    At one week had this problem and it repeated a few days later.

    The brake pedal would not depress. The key would turn but the engine did not even try to start. I thought I would have to get towed. Tried one more time pushing hard on the brake a few times. It gave a little and the car started.

    After two days the dealership hasn't been able to repeat problem and has no ideas.

    Could swapping keys be a problem? Maybe something with the anti theft feature.

    At one week do I have the right to ask for another car?

  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Is it new? If so, depending on State where you live, you could get a new car under the Lemon law....
  • stj1stj1 Posts: 2
    Yes it has around 150 miles on it.

    I think Lemon Laws may require 3 instances of the same issue.

    Rather not wait. If they cannot assure this won't keep happning we would like them to replace the car. Don't know where we will get with that.
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Each State has a diferent formula - it should be in your glove box brochure, which formula applies to your State. You may be right but I would double check...
  • would anyone know what causes a rattle going over bumps in my 1996 jetta? It seems as though it comes from the front but can't even be sure...seems to travel! thanks, Anson
  • On the 2010 Jetta 2.5 gas engine you no longer to take the cover off the engine to get at the oil filter. When you remove the splash cover under the engine, the filter
    is located right in front of the oil pan. It's the black plastic housing that can be removed with a regular strap oil filter wrench, no longer uses the 32mm socket. Looks like they actually made it easier to do this. Its been a couple of weeks
    since I was on here so someone may have already put out this info. Looks like
    they actually made it easier.
  • Does anyone know how to disable the Daytime Running Lights so I can turn the lights on just when I need them. Also, how do you disabel the auto locking system on the doors. When you reach, I think, about 10 mph all the doors lock,. Is there a way I can just use the remote or lock it from inside.

    so I can just use the remote or lock it from inside?
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    As far as I know, you cannot disable daytime running lights. Actually, it's a Federal mandated safety feature that all newer vehicles must have it that way.

    Some cars have an additional bulb in the headlight assembly and you could pull that bulb off. But I think VW is using a low beam bulb for that purpose and therefore you cannot disable it.

    You can disable auto-door-locking feature (I have done it on my 09 Jetta Tdi) in your instrument cluster computer. See owner's manual how to do it. It's just a few clicks on your computer control lever next to the steering wheel. Then you can just lock all doors using key remote, once inside and driving, at your leasure.

    You can also change factory default on opening all doors and trunk. The default only opens driver's side door but it can be changed that one click on key remote opens all doors and trunk.

    If you cannot manage it yourself, the Dealer could do it "free of charge".
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    If I remember (I may be wrong) I put a disclaimer in my post that the top has to be removed in order to access the oil filter housing on a Tdi engine. I think the person who asked about it, in one of his previosu posts, had a diesel engine.
    I am not familiar with 2010 gas engine as I don't have that one.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    The settings for these functions can be changed using VAG-COM or by your dealer. However, I doubt the dealer would deactivate the daytime running lights. Ross-Tech has instructions available on its web site regarding how to change these settings, and others, using VAG-COM.
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Door locking features can be changed by using on-board computer. No need for VAG-COM.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I guess I don't understand why anyone would want to disable the auto locking feature? I can not imagine any reason to want your doors to remain unlocked at >10 mph? :confuse:
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    In some geographical areas (or States) it's not a desirable feature. I can't imagine to have that annoying feature on where I live.
    One argument could be, for example, if you plunge your car into a deep water (or get stuck in it) you and your fellow passengers want to exit immediately without looking for unlock door buttons or unable to unlock doors when elec. power is friend lost his life in Phoenix, AZ that way, when he got stuck in a deep water...(flash flooded streets intersection) and couldn't unlock door having that "wonderful auto-lock feature".
    It's a matter of personal preference and therefore car manufacturers make it so that one can disable it.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    That is a pretty rare occurrence to be worrying about. In any case, my understanding is you can not count on opening doors when you are underwater anyway, due the water pressure...aren't you supposed to open the windows in order to get out? If you can not get the windows down you are supposed to kick out the windshield.

    Besides that, in the Jetta you do not have to press the door unlock button first anyway do you? You just pull the door open lever and open the door. (IIRC, the default setting required two pulls on the door opening lever to unlock and open, we had the dealer change that so it just opens on the first pull when locked???) I'm not really sure as we also had the dealer set it so all doors automatically unlock when the key is removed.

    My understanding is locked doors are safer in a collision and you are making your car less safe by driving with unlocked doors.
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    I took a course few years back in Stockholm, Sweden (conducted by SAAB in Sweden) what to do, if you fall in the water from one of those elevated freeways in Stockholm. The proper way (over there) is to wait until the water reaches the level of your mouth or nose and then push the door open. At that time there is not much water pressure difference. Braking window may cause water rush inside the car and may cause more harm than good!

    Same as when an airplane ditches in the water - you do not start braking windows!

    I prefer not to have auto-door lock feature on. If it would be safer, why then VW has it designed so that it can be disabled?

    Your understanding about locked doors is similar to wearing seat belts. In some instances, lives are saved, when seat belts are not worn - also a rare occurence. This arguments can go on and on.

    Your points are well taken but I just wanted to voice my opinion that may be shared by others.
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Just wanted to add (with regards to seat belts) ..

    Few years back there were some vehicles that had the auto-seat belts feature - that did not fly well with the public and wearing seat belts are again up to the driver and passenger to use them or not.

    Similarity with auto-door lock feature is obvious (at least in my opinion).
  • My power steering is out on my 2005.5 Jetta. I woke up this morning got in my car to drive and there was nothing no power steering. I also noticed the light is on to. Previous to this I haven't heard or had any indication to a problem. I looked for the fluid and there isn't any. I found out it is electric . I need help from someone who has had the problem or who is a mech. PLEASE HELP!
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    New plugs, wires, ignition coil, and ECT.

    Here are the specific codes

    PO351, PO352,PO353,PO354 -I believe corresponds to each of the connections to igintion coil, slots A-D.

    Presently slot A has plug 1, B -2, C-3, D-4

    The last code is PO302 which is misfire cylinder 2

    I also think after a long drive the converter is getting hot, sounds like it is cooling down from a really hi tempature. Making a loud click sound then what I ever recalled. Does not appear to be glowing red.

    Also noticed the coolant the level was a little low again even after I topped it off a couple weeks ago. No leaks, water pump and thermostat are new, not over heating. Engine compression is fine.

    Test the O2 sensors last night. Both were putting out .40-.45.

    Tried unplugging the MAF sensor from some advice, did not notice any major difference

    Out of ideas.
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