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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Let's see....for the clutch itself:

    You'll need a flywheel locking tool or equivalent (tool # 3067).

    A clutch disk alignment (centering) tool # 3190A

    If you remove the flywheel, you'll need new flywheel bolts

    To remove the transaxle, you 'll need some kind of engine support bridge to hold the engine up temporarily.

    Also, you'll need a transmission jack

    I presume your mechanic has done this job before?

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  • i ran into this problem too and could not find a solution online anywhere it plagued me for days, but alas i have a solution. hidden to your eye is a windage try that is holding your pan up. it follows the shape of your oil pan so it looks like its a gasket but nay it is not. separate the two and it should come down.
  • My Girlfriend has a 96 Jetta VR6 Automatic. She dumped her coolant in my driveway made it about 5 miles and the car made a loud pop then died, she smelled rubber burning. The car never overheated. I filled the resrvoir with water and it did not leak out, as soon as she put it in gear to go it dumped it's fluid again she made it the 5 miles back to the house and it died in the driveway, I don't see any obvious leaks when the car sits. It's a real nice car for it's age but were not sure we want to have it towed just to find out that we are looking at a several thousand dollar repair. Any ideas on where to start with a home repair?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    First of all, driving without antifreeze is NEVER a good thing... how can you possibly say "The car never overheated." ??? I hope you realize the temperature-gauge does not read properly when there is no antifreeze in the system so it cannot be used as a guide.

    Next, figure out where the coolant is coming from. It should not be very difficult with such a large leak.

    Finally, lets not forget VW *REQUIRES* special antifreeze. (substitutions are not a good idea because incompatibilities may cause gelling)

    Obviously driving it AT ALL is asking for $$ problems like warped head.
  • Hi I just took out the switch on mine the two red color things ar paint balls use a small screwdriver dig out most of the paint and the screw sriver will catch the screws unscrew them out uper and lower ( K)
  • tdilovetdilove Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 jetta. In the last couple of days when you start the car there is a buzzing noise coming from the right side of the car. Does anyone know what this is. or should i take it in asap ?
  • intelmanintelman Posts: 5
    I have 46,000 miles on my 2009 SE. I have some bubbling paint on the front edge and underside of my hood. The dealer says it is a paint problem and not covered anymore since the warranty has ended. However, the car has a 12 year unlimited mileage corrosion perforation warranty. The dealer was going to have the area rep come down but now it seems he is not coming based on a conversation he had with the dealer.

    I went to a body shop and they said it is definitely rust coming through the paint. The paint thickness measures 4.9 mils.

    I can see this being a major headache to fight VW on this claim. I have read where VW Customer Service is pretty bad. The service advisor is already giving me the run around. This is the last VW I buy, I'm switching back to Japanese (Subaru, Honda, Toyota).
  • revmarketrevmarket Posts: 48
    Can not diagnose it for sure from here.
    Could be a bad speaker, or speaker wire.
    Try to isolate where the buzzing is coming from and re-post.
  • dckozak1dckozak1 Posts: 18
    edited July 2011
    Several months ago my Jetta started showing symptoms of some sort of power train problem. The car is a manual trans with 96K on it. I'm the third owner and, to the best of my knowledge, there has been no previous problems/work done on this system. My first hint of a problem was feeling a unusual
    vibration through the stick shift and the clutch petal. This was only felt at idle and generally when the car is in neutral. The feeling was like something slapping the transmission from the (freewheeling) side of the engine. It was definite but not consistent. Increasing rpms did not change the frequency or increase the amount of noise or feel, on the contrary, at about 1000 to 1100 rpms it would go away and run smooth without any slapping, noise or vibration. Likewise with this, you could feel a higher frequency vibration threw the clutch even at higher rpms when you would run the gears. This feeling was bad enough to be noticed by my wife as unusual and lead her to avoid the car. The last noticeable thing about this was the sound coming from the exhaust, while running the gears (worse at higher [3000+] rpms) was like a hole in the muffler or exhaust pipe.
    My local mechanic couldn't find a solution and shortly before I was to take to the dealer, something really strange happened. It all stopped, no problems, no vibration, exhaust sounds, all normal.
    This lasted about 2000 miles and than slowly started coming back, not so much the slapping on the stick but the rest and another noticed charismatic of this problem, when you are in any (higher) gear, while cruising, if you let off the throttle you can feel a noticeable thunk through the power train. Its somethings worst than others and can be "managed" to either make it worse or smoother depending on how you manage the throttle and whether you are accelerating hard or decelerating. One other thing, when coming off the clutch, one can sometimes notice a feeling of the clutch petal not releasing cleanly, it feels like it pops off the foot near the top of its travel. Not always noticed, but sometimes.
    Having said all this, the problem is again (!!!!) either (temporary) gone or diminished.
    I would be grateful if anyone has had this problem correctly diagnosed or a mechanic who was worked on this or a similar problem.
  • i bought my 2002 jetta 8 months ago and yes i should of took everyone's advice the first time....instead id figure it couldnt happen to me...ive replaced my transmission three months after i purchased it for $3,200..the i had to replace my shocks & mostly everything in my front end with it in the past 2 months which cost another $2,000....and all these little sounds are still there with little problem i have now is a grinding sound from my front end...the idiot mechanic who has been taking my money says it could be a wheel bearing but he wants to remove my tanny again and look in it again...any ideas on which it could be so i can save time and money???
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited July 2011
    1) Drive a manual xMission (they get better MPG and rarely fail)
    2) Seek another mechanic (Get at least 3 estimates before spending $$)

    BTW: On a 2002 you should have expected to have some suspension work.... but $2000 is OUTRAGEOUS. I had the suspension replaced on all 4 corners of my 2003 Jetta for under $500. (
  • fordnutsfordnuts Posts: 19
    Replace the electronic door mechanism in driver's door. Had a draw on battery..tried everything and then found out to replace that and it worked. No more constant draw. ;)
  • fordnutsfordnuts Posts: 19
    Nobody has had to replace the trunk mechanism in a VW (Jetta '02)???. Talk about an overcomplicated device. The electronic latch by driver's door here it activate a mecahnism in the trunk, however, the trunk would not open. Took all the screws off the carpeted door frame in the trunk and found out the one plastic piece that releases the latchwas broken. And it can't be glued back together.. too much stress is imparted on the this piece. I'll be calling VW to see how much it to replace, very doubful they just replace the single plastic piece, we'll see.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Yup - sometimes, due to cost to repair, you may opt to just use the key in the trunk to open it.... or are you suggesting that the key does not work either?
  • jcroylejcroyle Posts: 2
    I have a 99 jetta 2.0l 5sp. It has 240k miles on it. Recently it has begun stalling while driving. This happens at any speed. It will surge a few times before the engine cuts out. It will not restart for about 2-3 minutes later. Now it may run for another 30 miles just fine, or it might do it again in 2-3 more miles.

    Things I have done:
    replaced fuel filter
    replaced timing belt
    replaced MAF
    replaced cam position sensor
    plugs and wires are only one year old.

    The dealer has no idea why it is doing this......
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Almost sounds as if engine is starving for fuel. Have you considered the fuel-filter or fuel-pump?

    I believe there is a "diagnostic test" that can be done which entails removing the fuel-feed line from engine and sticking in coffee-can. Then jumper the socket for the fuel-pump-relay to force the fuel-pump to run.

    As I recall, there is a specification which says how much fuel should be in the can after so many seconds.
  • revmarketrevmarket Posts: 48
    Try seeing if the ignition coil is causing intermittent spark?
    If it is bad and gets overheated then it may fail to give the right voltage.

    Normally when Jetta coils go they just quit all together.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Actually, the CEL will lite up if ignitor is failing to fire the sparkplugs. I am not sure the original Poster mentioned that ANY lites were on the dashboard... hence we have to assume the ignitor is not the issue.
  • It sounds like the O2 sensor is bad..... I have had cars putter and stall on me because of a dirty or failing O2 sensor
  • I have a 2001 VW Jetta and the interior ceiling is coming down. Any suggestions on how to repair it? Also the material around the door is coming a loose..HELP!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    These are molded one-piece headliners, so it's hard to know what your problem is exactly. Maybe a clip broke or something? You'd best check in with an upholstery shop unless you can post us a photo of what's going on.

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  • sbellahsbellah Posts: 1
    edited September 2011
    I have a 2002 Jetta, GLS 1.8 T., 145,000 miles. About a week ago, the coolant light (flashing thermostat) came on the dash. Checked the "globe" coolant tank, it was empty. I bought 50/50 coolant (NOT the red colored VW coolant) and added to the full line. About 24 hours later, light came on again, coolant was completely empty. Kept adding coolant for about 3 days until the oil pressure light (flashing oil can) came on with the coolant light and the thermostat maxed out to 260+.

    I found that there were two separate hose pieces that were connected near the radiator (why not ONE single hose?) that had broken apart. Coolant was simply spilling out like a garden hose. Was able to connect them back together, added coolant, but still seeing light come on. No noticable leak anywhere, nothing pooling under car. The reservoir will still be completely empty after 10 minutes of driving. I can hear a rushing/flushing sound under the hood when I turn off the engine, near the radiator-like when a washing machine drains.

    Is the car just starving for coolant after not getting any due to the broken hose? How much coolant should it take to properly cool the radiator/engine? I've been told it may be the water pump. Again, with no coolant visibly leaking, where does it go? I'm seeing the same behavior as before, but thought that re-connecting two obviously separated hoses would do the trick. Not so far. I've only driven the car once since connecting the hoses, for about 10 minutes. I don't want to overfill with coolant, but I also don't want the engine to overheat and seize. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    I think if I were you I'd get the cooling system pressure tested. This will tell if there are any leaks and also might help identify head gasket problems.

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  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Mixing ANYTHING with VW G12 coolant is a bad idea. (I realize you were in a bind but distilled water would have been a better choice.)

    Now that it has been 'mixed' consider a tottal R&R of your coolant....Lest, you may get 'gelling' and plugging-up of the cooling system.

    The sound you hear under the hood after turning off the engine is BOILING ANTIFREEZE... this a a bad thing. Do not drive until you have this under control.... Lest you risk warping the head and causing serious trouble.

    For now, if you cannot obtain G12 antifreeze, get a case of distilled water and carry it in the trunk.

    Here is a URL which helps explain G12 antifreeze
  • There is no score/ mark in the top pulley to line up. Has anybody come across this issue before? :mad:
  • gravitygirljsgravitygirljs Posts: 2
    edited October 2011
    OK so I have a 99.5 Jetta GLS 2.0 5sp Manual and I am having some serious issues. I bought the car and it had problems with the cat converter. Had it replaced last winter. Had new o2 sensor, plugs and cables 2 yrs ago. check engine light on until cat replacement then shortly after went on again. Took it back said it was something to do with my idle. I planed on bringing it back as soon as I had the cash but it went off again. Fast forward to a couple weeks ago, car ran very low on gas, only had a few dollars to put in but it should have gotten my light off. My gas light stayed on and it was reading over a quarter tank and chugging a bit, idling, running rough. The light should have been off at the point the lever was reading. i went to get some fuel cleaner thinking I had a clog or something but before I got to the station to fill it up it kinda chugged once hard and all resumed normal. Light off not running rough. A few days ago my check engine light came on again. Since then it is getting worse, have to push more on accelerator taking of or it feels like it is going to die, intermittent chugging at steady speed, idling ROUGH, and yesterday the check engine light started blinking at me!!! It is not consistant though, it is off sometimes, solid sometimes, and blinks sometimes. I stopped by a shop and they ran the codes and here is what I got. I have NO idea where to start.
    17990 idle adaptation limit reached P1582 intermittent problem ecm. 0134 Engine control module defect intermittent, 16684 random missfire, 1687 cylinder #3 missfire, 17988 throttle actuator bank 1 malfunction intermittent, 17708 missfire detected possibly low fuel P1300 intermittent, 16686 cylinder #2 missfire.
    My car has a salvage title. it was wrecked and rebuilt the yr it was new. it has an interior leak that comes through the right front wheel well area. the carpet is gone and the electric controls on that side of the car do not work. seat heater, defrost. My temp gauge sits at bottom level but once in awhile, like now, moves to middle 190 point. never hot and does not move high to low and such. I get 28-29 MPG. My car just turned to 140k miles. The shop said it may be a computer issue and I need to replace it first. I am afraid my car will blow up or something. I can not see anything when I visual my engine. It is clean and nothing apparent. I am mechanically inclined but I am now preg so no fixing anything with fluids or fumes. I need any help possible of things I can try and do for myself. I have the Chilton book on it too if that would be of help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited October 2011
    You mention several unrelated issues. I will try to give you some help

    1) That year of VW was *known* to have a bad temperature-sender. Simply replace it with one of the upgraded (green) ones. (less than $20 part) On the 2L engine, I have replaced the temp-sensor in the dark with my daughter holding a flashlight. (it is that simple)

    Here is link to new sensor, O-ring and clip for your engine.

    Since a faulty temp-sender could cause ALL KINDS of goofy problems and errors, I would absolutely get it replaced before doing anything else.

    2) Remove/clean all ground connections. With all those goofy, unrelated errors, the only obvious answer is the ECU is not getting a solid ground. (or +12)

    Explanation: If the ECU (Engine Computer) gets bad signal from the engine-temp sensor, then the ECU may make bad 'decisions' about how to control the engine. For example, if the ECU 'thinks' the engine is cold when it is really warmed up, then too much fuel may be injected and the idle-speed will be incorrect.
  • gravitygirljsgravitygirljs Posts: 2
    edited October 2011
    Goodness I hope you're right! I had to drive my daughters 94 white and purple geo tracker today, aka the barbie jeep, and felt like I was driving a box! I miss my car! I appreciate the help :-)
    Oh and GREAT site! I found a new window kit for so much less than the dealer wanted :-)
  • jj09jj09 Posts: 1
    i had a problem in my 02 vw jetta 1.8t jolting and lights coming on... they are on the right track... you should check if you need a crank position sensor... if the car jolts and it feels like your not getting enough power to your engine and the epc light along with other check llights comes on that should be the prob and those other codes you could awlays google it and something should come up
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