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Ford Expedition Electrical Problems



  • The pedals not moving is a common problem, there is an issue in the linkage in most cases. Check the fuse first just to make sure it isn't something simple. The door ajar message can be fixed in most cases by spraying the latch mechanisms with WD40. You need to douse them and slam the doors a few times. It is easier if you know exactly which one is doing it, but it wont hurt to do them all.
  • Well since the recommendation to change the blend door actuator which I did and it took care of the issue, now weeks later no noise but my new battery has gone completely dead after sitting in my driveway for 2 or 3 days. Is there anything else that would be killing my battery??? Could the alternator. I tried to with cable but no luck. I do get head lights when hooked up to charge but the motor won't turn. What could it be?
  • kd4kmzkd4kmz Posts: 19
    Autozone will check your alternator for free. Rear winshielf wiper has known to draw battery down if it sticks also a burnt stuck relay if you have had allot of clicking from your fuse box and your door atuator that will trigger on and turn the inside and courtesy lights on, are you sure you got the right one, just other things to look into if your alternator is not the issue
  • I was having the same problem, and it was our rear wiper froze up and was draining the battery. I hope that helps.
  • As soon as I saw your post, and before I read the responses, the rear wiper was my guess. Not sure what else it is fused with, but if it is with a bunch of non critical things you could pull the fuse to test the theory. Or if it is with critical stuff and you are planning on letting it sit for a few days, pull it anyway.
  • dale77dale77 Posts: 16
    '98 Expedition, 5.0L, fairly new alternator, new plugs, about half the coils replaced, 160,000 miles and generally runs well.

    My problem seems to have some similarity to what I'm seeing on this board with the exception that the vehicle has not died.....yet. There have been intermitant, short, lived problems as follows:

    1. Battery light goes on and voltage meter maxes out, then returns to normal. This has happened a few times over the past three months.

    2. Battery light goes on and voltage meter flucuates with engine RPM, then returns to normal,

    3. Battery light goes on, then entire console goes dead, with screeching noises coming from speakers and loud relay clicks while engine continus to run smoothly. Returns to normal after a few to 30 seconds.

    4. Console comes back on but then 4X4 indicator light won't go out.

    5. After a night the car starts and runs normally.

    6. Odometer light intermittantly goes out and back on.

    I'm expecting the truck to die unexpectedly unless I can resolve this issue.

    Any suggestions?
  • I have a question. were you able to get the window and radio working/fixed because I am suffocating in my truck. Can you tell me what you did? Was it the GEM Modular
  • dale77dale77 Posts: 16
    Since my problem is still intermittant, I have not been able to isolate its source. Some of the posts on this web site seem to suggest that there are connection problems in the console. I did not have problems with my window but the problem has been so short-lived, I did not have the opportunity to try the window while the electronics were having their epileptic fit. I still have yet to discover what is wrong. Until something fails permenently, I will have little chance of discovering the source. Sorry I cannot be of further assistance.
  • Hi, I was wondering if you were ever able to get your problem fixed with your Expedition. I'm having the same problem. The radio comes on and then it goes off and I can't roll up or down my windows when that happen. I think my truck don't like me and trying to suffocate me. Do you know what caused the problem?
  • dale77dale77 Posts: 16
    See my reply #197
  • dale77dale77 Posts: 16
    edited January 2011
    '99 Expedition, 5.4L Eddie Bauer
    Electrical problems included: ABS light stays on, odometer light and panel lights go off and on, all instruments malfunction at the same time, entire instrument cluster goes blank. These problems were intermittent and short-lived and the engine continued to run normally.

    I tried the fix at this web site:

    link title

    When I examined my circuit board, I found not one, but THREE bad solders at the connector posts. Having had some experience soldering circuit boards, I knew what to look for.

    Following the instructions at the above link, I also did the following:

    Examine the entire circumference of all nine of the connector posts with a good magnifying glass. Look for black/dark discoloration around the base of the post in the solder. This discoloration is a good indication that the connection is compromised.

    I took a small soldering iron and re-melted the solder on all nine posts and added a tiny (and I mean TINY) amount to the three posts showing discoloration. Be careful not to overheat the connection. Once the solder melts, immediately remove the iron.

    Afterwards, re-examine the posts and make sure there is no black discoloration and that the solders look silvery all over. If you see any black discoloration, re-melt the connection. When you are done soldering, remove any dust/debris left behind including rosin and clean the posts with a solvent (I used dry cleaning fluid). Make sure the solder from one post does not touch another. If it does, you probably added too much solder and you need to remove some.

    After doing this, all of the problems stopped. I need to drive the vehicle a little longer to make sure but, so far, so good. The job took about two hours and was pretty easy.

    If somebody wants to discuss individually, you can contact me through my web site at:

    link title

    and send a message through the "Contact Us" page. I will receive the message directly.
  • dale77dale77 Posts: 16
    I seem to have found a fix for the electrical problems I was having. Please see my post #201.
  • gilly47gilly47 Posts: 1
    edited February 2011
    Alternator not charging battery(when running)? battery not holding charge. both tested good on the voltmeter. wiring?
  • Hello everyone, Im new to this forum and would like to chat about my electrical problems that I think I now have an answer to due to some posts I have read. First off I just purchased a 1999 Expedition EB A4wd with 70k miles. After test driving it and running it around town for a couple of days (all good at this point) I decided to give the new truck a bath. WOW! This thing does not like water! I came home the next day from work to find the A/C Blower motor running and the dash lights blinking so I disconnected the battery. The battery was drained so I charged it back up. The next day I reconnected the battery and cranked it up. The radio cut on and off, all the service lights on the dash flickered, the starter kept engaging and numerous other things began to act up.
    After a few days passed and I spent some time on the computer doing a bit of research, I found multiple cases where the front windshield would leak causing a very small amount of moisture to enter the wire harness under the dash, the fuse box, the computer and so on. I took apart the underside of my dash and found a very small amount of corrosion on two connectors. I cleaned them best I could and let the truck sit for a few days with the windows cracked down just a bit.
    Today I ran the crap out of it with no problems?
    I plan on replacing the factory windshield next week as this is obviously a manufacture defect that ford has known about as far back as 2002 as has done nothing about. BS
    Now for the kicker... I just sold my 2007 King Ranch F-150 with only 42k miles for $9000 less then its true value due to a problem ford has had with there pis poor spark plug design on the 3 valve 5.4 V-8. and before that a constant hassle with that POS 6.0 Liter Diesel.
    Needless to say, I for the love of god will never buy a another ford vehicle as long as I live.
    The fact that they have problems is one thing, The fact that they dont step up to the plate and correct there problems is why this one is my last!
    I will post back after changing the windshield and let you all know if that was the problem.

    Thanks for your time,
  • If you sold a truck for 9k under value because of a sub 1k plug job you made a bad choice.

    I think you are the right track with the windshield.
  • got some of the same issues with my 03 EB expedition. did you figure it out yet? Im leaning towards a water leak from windshield making its way to the fuse panel located by the parking brake.did not have a dead battery yet but auto lights,interior lights,false door ajar warning,4x4 lights flashing also. what a piece of junk!
  • I've heard it's the GM Module
  • kd4kmzkd4kmz Posts: 19
    It is in the instrument panel, try this, unscrew the two screws that are holding the cover in place, do nothing else, the next time the windows or radio don't work, just push on your instrument panel and walla you will see it it there, some thought it was the connector, that is not it, it is a condition where teh temepature or humniiduty in the vehicle is affecting the dispaly unit wher it is releasing the ground, that is why you see the flickering, note this is only for 2003 units built in 2002, from all the blogs I have reviewed. Your door ajar and lights on is due to the attuator in the door, see the blogs about spraying WD40 in the doors and working them until it goes away, the atuators get gummed up after a period of time
  • peapaawpeapaaw Posts: 1
    edited February 2011
    It started with the radio going out then my instrument panel lights would come on and off , 4x4 windshield fluid . Today my radio went out this only happens alot when in drive and after rain or snow .But is hasnt rained or snowed here in a few days .So today my truck started with the key not all the way on when im in park or nuetral it just keeps trying to start .Have the whole under my dash apart dont even know where to start .Thought it was a remote starter problem but dont think i have one .2001 ford expadition . Dont want to get reamed at the mech .Been looking through this site and getting conflicting resalutions .Does any one know whats wrong . It usualy doesnt happen when its not raining .Now when i put the key in it keeps starting And radio will go out and windshield washer light come on and off , hear a clicking noise when it happens. key is in and turned on but not to start just turned on and all of a sudden truck will start then keep on trying to start .Please helppppppp
  • chetekwichetekwi Posts: 1
    I see am not alone with electrical problems hear are my issues that just started a couple days ago. Dash light for 4wd flash on and off, dome light won't turn on when opening the door, heated seats don't work, auto lights don't work, radio turns on when shutting the car off and opening the door. I have 131,000 miles never spent a dime except for tires/ brakes and now a new battery, does anyone know the solution to this problem. It sound like Ford doesn't know and i really don't want to put 1000s of dollars into it and not fix the problem. Any and all help would be apprecaited. :cry:
  • Hey dale77, I'm not sure if you still have your Expedition, but I did find out what was causing the problem. I took it to Ford and found out it was the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster basically controls almost everything. They do have to find one with your same mileage on your truck and they have to re program all of your keys to the new cluster. I did look around to search for it a little cheaper, but the only problem was the shops I went to don't have the equipment to program the keys only Ford does. It ran a little over seven hundred and it depends on the mileage on the cluster. Thanks for your help
  • dale77dale77 Posts: 16
    Hello ednatheexpe:

    Thanks for the note. I was able to isolate the problem to the circuit board behind the instrument panel. See my post #201 with a link to detailed instructions with photos for the fix. By re-soldering the connector pins on the board, all of the problems went away. And it only cost me a couple of hours. The first time, I only re-soldered three of the pins but some of the problems re-surfaced. I repeated the process and this time made sure that the solder on all 9 pins melted and I added a small amount of new solder to each pin.
    In addition, I examined the entire back of the circuit board with a magnifying glass and found several other sloppy solders with thin threads of solder bridging circuit board conductors. These could easily cause a short and the type of symptoms I observed. The circuit board also had gobs of rosin around many of the solders. This rosin should have been cleaned with a solvent when the circuit board was manufactured. Old rosin can collect dust and moisture and cause problems. I carefully removed the rosin with an Exacto knife and then cleaned the affected areas with dry-cleaning fluid and a Q-Tip.

    I have not experienced problems since.

    While I had the instrument panel out of the dash, I also looked for evidence of water leaking in around the windshield because others on this site suggested that this could be a problem. I'm on my 4th windshield on this vehicle and found no evidence of moisture or corrosion anywhere behind or beneath the dash. So this does not seem to be relevant in my case.

    If one circuit board has the number of bad/sloppy solders, it suggests bad quality control and it is likely that others have the same problem.

    My fix is consistent with your remedy (replacing the unit) only it does not cost anything. I am convinced that many of the electrical problems reported on this site can be traced to bad/sloppy solders on the instrument panel circuit board.
  • I own a 07 Frod Expedition. Purchased brand new. My problem started the first year, my battery keeps going dead. A new battery only last 6 months to a year. I have went to the dealership for them to check out over and over, they put in on the computer and checked it out, everything is fine. it's the battery. WOW you can't make me believe it's the battery over and over again. Has anyone had this same problem with their battery going dead? If, you have and know what's the problem please I am asking please let me know. Thanks. I am at the end of my rope with my suv. starting to think it is trash.
  • Hi. I do too live in Miami and I would greatly appreciate it if you could share that mechanic's # with me. I have an electrical problem with my expo 2002. I had some sucker install tints on my windshield, and it seems that he dumped a lot of water on my dashboard, so it started messing with the dash lights, they would stay on after car had been turned off and key had been removed. After succesfully paying $300 to a [non-permissible content removed] shop, now my car has no power unless i start it, meaning no interior lights, no radio, no dash lights, and the trip odometer and radio reset everytime i turn off the car. I believe my problem will be the GEM most likely, but I cant afford to take it to the dealer. So any help will be greatly appreciated. My e-mail is
  • dale77dale77 Posts: 16
    I have posted messages #197, 201 and 213 describing dashboard electrical problems and the solution that worked for me. There is also a description with photos of the circuit board that is very helpful at the following link:">link title

    link title

    Since re-soldering all nine of the connector pins on the circuit board and cleaning the sloppy solders and rosin from the back of the board, I have driven 1000+miles with no problems whatsoever. This has clearly solved the problem.
  • jdj5166jdj5166 Posts: 2
    Hi I have a 01 Ford expedition and like everyone else I am having the same leak problems. I am a 29 year old woman who is pretty handy when told exactly what to do. I need to know 1. Is it possible to remove the luggage rack without cutting my head liner, and how do i go about sealing it up? 2. i removed the assist handle and would like to know how to go about sealing that also. 3 I would like to know how to seal the cowl. And my last question is what is the best thing to use to seal these areas. Thank you in advance.
  • I'd say the windshield is probably the most likely culprit of the things you've mentioned. Sealing the assist handle does nothing for you - it is not an entry point of water into the vehicle, it is an exit for water already in the a-pillar. By sealing it all you do is prevent the water from entering the cabin at that point, it will just go lower. Take it to a glass shop and have them check the seal on the windshield. With a compressor you can also do it yourself, although not as well as a shop. Do you have a sunroof? If you do you should check that the drains are running free.
  • jdj5166jdj5166 Posts: 2
    I have already had the windshield resealed. There is water that comes into the vehicle thru the assists handle. I do not have a sunroof. But the luggage rack seems to be a common culprit for water leaks and would really like to get that sealed up if I am able to find the easiest way of removing it. I see bolts on top but i am not sure if i have to go thru the headliner to additional hidden bolts.
  • alwaysfords2alwaysfords2 Posts: 339
    edited April 2011
    Probably the easiest way to handle the roof rack is to take one screw out at a time, put teflon tape on it and reinstall it. Give it a while and see what happens. You should check the drains at the cowl to make sure that water that rolls down the windshield drains right away and doesn't build up. Try it with a garden hose and the hood open. Again the water coming in through the handle is a symptom, not a cause so sealing it really doesn't help you much.
  • remixthisremixthis Posts: 1
    Please help! I have a '97 Eddie Bauer Expediiton that I bought used a few months ago. Last week one night when I got in the vehicle after work the interior lights were flashing on and off as soon as I opened the door. When I closed the door they stopped, I started the truck and was on my way.
    2 days later the problem was still happening, only now the door locks and windows stopped working. They make a sound like they want to work, but no dice. The door locks actually sound like they're straining to open for some reason, and the windows just make a noise. The radio and heat and a/c work fine. Does anyone have any ideas that can help me? Could this be connected to the anti-theft system at all?? Thanks!!!
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