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Synthetic motor oil



  • I'm also a UT fan. I worked in Knoxville after I graduated from Tennessee Tech. in 1994 with a Civil Engineering degree. I moved to Nashville last year to attend Vandy.

    There is no better place to be than in Neyland Stadium on a chilly, sunny fall day with 107,000 fans going nuts. It is a surreal, dreamlike experience.

    I just got a chill up my spine thinking about it.

    It's good to meet another Tennesseean. The downside to living in Nashville is that the city is attracting a lot of LA entertainment types. I hope that the rest of the U.S. never discovers just how great this state is so that it won't turn it into another California.
  • chineechinee Posts: 50
    I've read on that Pennzoil and Castrol are two high quality dino oils, and I've read that GTX can safely go 5K miles... haven't read about Pennzoil (wasn't looking for comments either").

    Since your comfort level is what's important, Iwould advise that you stop by the oil site and read for a few days, even pose a question... Those guys over there are always helpful and will recommend an oil and a change interval for you, regerdless of whether you choose dino or synthetic.
  • ryokenryoken Posts: 291
    Are there other labs besides Blackstone to do this? Not that I have anything against them, I'm just wondering if I have choices.
  • yes, schaeffers, amsoil, m1 all have labs. So does your local cat dealer.

     The main reason most use blackstone is to help support them because they pay good advertising money to help support the bobistheoilguy board and they appear to do an excellent job. But as for choices, many oil companies do supply analysis.
  • zoomzoom626zoomzoom626 Posts: 124
    I drive 2000 626 V6 and I was wondering would I get better wear protection if I switched from mobil 1 10W-30(what manual calls for) to mobil 1 0W-40 given that I run 10 K drain intervals.
  • That looks like the Mobil Trysyn in your analysis.

    It did very well. The new Supersyn will even perform better for you . I like that oil !
  • tassitassi Posts: 13
    Can somebody inform me if this Valvoline Max Life Oil is a good buy. My car is at 100,000 miles and I'm trying to figure out what is the best oil I should be using. Up to this point I've been using Quaker State oil. I drive a '99 Chevy Lumina LTZ with a 3800 V6.
  • Yes the Maxlife is a good oil . All the oils have high milaege versions these days . Mobil has a new 10/30 available as well .

    The 3800 will run many miles with either of those oils .
  • tassitassi Posts: 13
    Can somebody inform me if this Valvoline Max Life Oil is a good buy. My car is at 100,000 miles and I'm trying to figure out what is the best oil I should be using. Up to this point I've been using Quaker State oil. I drive a '99 Chevy Lumina LTZ with a 3800 V6.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Got a lot of good press on this board when it first came out. I believe at its introduction it had a pretty good dose of moly which has since been reduced. The favorable reports have decreased. Whether this is substantiative, or simply the result that this and other boards such as bobistheoilguy consist of a fairly small cadre of oil nuts and not anything statistically significant is something I'm not sure about.
  • The many oils does not have to use moly to be good products and protect well though . Maxlife analysis have looked very good ,even better than some moly oils .

    Not to argue , just an observation based on the much touted oil analysis some like to have done .
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    there are many additives such as antimony which perform even better than moly and don't even show up on UOA's unless you pay big bucks.
  • Shell Care in TX is one of the Analysis Companies that tests for Antimony in their analysis kits that cost 12 dollars. Antimony is a part of the make-up of trimetal engine bearings so they test for it. No big bucks there and other labs test for it as well without causting anymore . Just have to pick one of the many labs that test for it is all.

    Look here at antimony pentoxide and other variances of antimony. It appears to be a solid additive much like moly disulphide. I would personally avoid any solid additives in a motor oil. They speak of actual micron sizes here .
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Unless you are having some consumption issues or seal leekage why would you change what has been working well? At 100,000 miles if it ain't broke don't fix it is very true. The high mileage oils may only be worth switching to if you have some issues. Otherwise jsut keep on driving with what you have
  • I agree. The advertised " for motors with over 75,000 miles " does not depict the need of a high milaege oil . If the motor does not leak but is starting to use some oil it would be best to go a step higher grade oil . Especially in summer when the difference between a 10/30 and 10/40 does not matter that much with cold starts in mind .
  • What is the difference between 5W 30 and 5W 50 synthetic oil? Manual recomends 5W 30 in my 99' camry (80k miles). I'm wondering if the 5w 50 would work? Is mobil a good brand to go with? what kind of drain interval am i looking at with the camry?
  • malachy72malachy72 Posts: 325
    a 10w-30 and stay away from the 5w-50. The car does not need an oil with that viscosity.

    M1 is fine if synthetic is what you want.

    My 2 cents.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,374
    There is a lot of viscosity difference. I would stick with either the 5W-30 or the 10W-30. One practical difference between the two is app .5-.7 mpg better gas mileage with the 5W-30. Unless you are dialed into the differences there is almost no SOTP difference. Mobil One is an oil I have been using for INXS of 650k miles.
  • asacasac Posts: 7
    I just bought a Honda S2000 with 11K miles on it. I plan on using Mobile 1 at the next oil change. Since the is such is high revving engine, what oil change interval do you guys recommend for the Mobile 1 or other synthetic oil? I haven't discussed this yet with the dealer, but wanted to see what this board recommends. Thanks.
  • I have an 02 Passat V6 4 Mo. I bought this with 11000 miles on it when it was 8 mo. old. Even though I got it with an oil change of Valvoline blend 10-30, I changed it to M1 5-40, per by the book. The next change was at 16700 miles, with the same M1 5-40, stock of which I had, and I had only used 1/2 a quart during those miles! Drives like a dream.

    However, it seems M1 0-40 is replacing 5W-40. What do I do??? I am intending to increase drain intervals gradually to 10,000 miles over the next 2-3 oil changes with intermittent top-offs as required. I live in the Dakotas. Your thoughts please......
  • snarkssnarks Posts: 207
    Your oil interval should be what the manual requires for mileage interval. Once the warranty expires then you can do what you'd like while however under warranty follow requirements.
  • asacasac Posts: 7
    My owners manual requires 7500 mile oil changes for normal driving. My question is whether more frequent oil changes are recommended with the Mobil 1? I would never go beyond the 7500 interval anyway.
  • Has anybody used engine oil additive lubricant made of small (5-15 micron)and soft ductile metals. The product claims that the patented micro-metallubricant fills in imperfect, worn surface areas of cylinder walls, rings, camshafts, bearings, and other critical parts, providing a smooth and well-lubricated surface.
    And because of that it can improves engine performance/compression/mileage and reduces friction/exhaust emission/oil consumption. Does it make sense? Anyway I have tried with my 88 Corola (160,000 mile) and 98 Altima (90,000 mile), both work very good and I can tell big difference before and after.

  • pulgopulgo Posts: 400
    Take a look at this:;- f=5;t=000830

    It's just snake oil, similar to the comments on the linked page. If you want to ruin your engine, just go ahead.
  • micwebmicweb Posts: 1,617
    I just purchased a new Toyota, 1.5 liter engine. Standard spec oil is 5-30, but I have heard a lot of good things about the 5-20 oil and would prefer to run it. Any thoughts? I would use Quaker State or Motorcraft 5-20. I would be running 3,000 mile oil changes, and I am interested in better engine protection, not better gas mileage.

    Since I am going to do 3,000 mile oil changes, I prefer not to use 5-30 M1 (although with only a 3.5 liter crankcase capacity and no oil consumption, maybe M1 isn't an impossible choice in terms of cost).

    My driving is mostly freeway, but a couple of times a month I'll do interstate runs of 200-400 miles at interstate speeds. I also have a stick shift and will occasionally run the engine up to 5,000 rpm or a tad under redline, and when driving on mountain grades downhill, will let the engine rev high so as to get the engine braking effect.
  • in price for the Walmart M1 5 quart jug.

    Sigh... I guess I'm going back to dino now.
  • joatmonjoatmon Posts: 315
    I'd recommend 3-4k on the Motorcraft, or 6-8k on Mobil 1 0W20. I think it may depend on whether you want to be under it more often and if it is easy to change?

  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    My car is now at 3500 miles and it calls for the first oil change at 3750 miles. Is there any advantage with going with a synthetic oil or just staying with dino oil at 4k change intervals for the oil and filter?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    The Sandman :-)
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    If you are more interested in protection vs higher mpg etc. I would definitely stay with the ?W30 as recommended in the manual. If you want a 0W30 you can easily find that as well but I do not understand why you would even care to run a 0W20 in an engine where at 30 weight is recommended
  • knapp3knapp3 Posts: 112
    Boy, you'll get answers on both sides of that question. The only experienced-based answer I've seen comes from Bill99gxe on the site who advocates using dino for the 1st 10K in Nissan Maxima engines based on the oil analysis spreadsheet results he's seen while collecting UOA reports over the last few years. He feels that the VQ V6 Max engine takes a long time to break in and thus benefits from dino oil during that time. Whether that applies to the 1.8L or 2.4L Sentra engines is anybodys guess.

    Everyone else's opinion is just that, opinion. The question you need to answer is, what's the hurry or benefit of switching so soon?
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