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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions



  • stsamstsam Posts: 1
    I have the same vibrating problems when the air-con is On when the car is stop(Engage to Drive position). Toyota Service tester taught that it was the Engine mounting crack and the Air-con Compressor that caused the problems. After waited for 6 weeks, both spare parts came and just got it replaced free of charge (under warranty) but the vibration still exist especially in the stop position. The last comments from the tester is "this is normal". I wonder whether is the main electronic control unit malfuntional for the idling module or something else? Please advised if you have this problems fixed. Thanks

  • jimmy57jimmy57 Posts: 5
    Thanks for your reply. My dealer is working very closely with me on this issue. I am very impressed with their response thus far. I hope and pray that a fix becomes available. I really enjoy owning Toyotas, and would like to continue to do so.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    personally, i don't know if this will help at all - so take it merely as an option to discuss with this responsive dealership if they try new solenoids and new trans valve body, reflash or re-initialize your ecm, maybe even replace your transmission...

    ask them to replace your throttle body actuator and position sensor, and also (probably first) your accelerator pedal assembly (mechanicals and sensor).

    perhaps you should contact the NHTSA and file a report with them. on the other hand, you seem to suggest the dealership is working the problem aggressively to address your concerns.
  • damon34damon34 Posts: 124
    I was just wondering where are you from I am from kansas. But you explained my problems right down to a T. And i call toyota about 2 almost 3 months ago and got the same story, never heard of this problem. And i am glad ur dealership is working with you and ur rep. But my dealership said there wasnt anything they could do about it, and the region toyota rep just made me mad by saying there wasnt anything wrong with the car and it drove like a camry and I offered for him to test drive my car for a week and he wouldnt do it. U drove another camry that was worse than yours and my experience of driving two other camrys they didnt do it at all. My questions to you is. Does your car hesitate in the mornings when it is cooler? And does it hesitate all the time? And does it hesitate more when it is hot? Also try this if you havent already Unhook ur negative battery cable and turn on ur headlights to let the battery drain, and see if it keeps it from hesitating for a couple days. Just curious. I have done that with my twice, first time it worked for about week or so and then the second time maybe a couple of days. To be honest with you I just about gave up untill i read your comments in hear. I just actually just go home from looking at new cars. But i am going to make toyota fix this and make it right, so i am going to call up toyota again and complain.
    Thank you for the comments on your car again probally kept me from going out there and getting upside down
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Posts: 52
    Yeah thanks!!! Where can I find the water pump weep hole? And what am I looking for on the radiator cap. My radiator was replaced less than six months ago, its brand new. So I am assuming that its not a hose or the radiator cap. Also their is no coolant puddled in my driveway or anywhere that I let the car sit. Is it possible for engine to be burning an entire reservoir of coolant every hour? Or would it only leak out of the water pump when the car is running? Thanks again :sick:
  • flyingjflyingj Posts: 7
    I couldn't agree with you more. The car literally cannot get out of it's own way! I have been to the dealer twice and the answer is they cannot do anything until Toyota says to change. I have logged my complaint to Toyota thanks to you and I have also logged a complaint to the NTSB. I made Toyota aware is a potentially life threatening defect and I will hold Toyota responsible. :mad: :lemon: :mad:
  • damon34damon34 Posts: 124
    Is there away you can go above toyota?
  • ew3074ew3074 Posts: 20
    Hi, everyone. My camry is having some kind of window noise when I close it. It doesn't happen when I open it though. When I looked at the window closely, I saw some scratch that could be taken away if I scratch it off.
    I went to some store. They said may be there is something wrong with the window regulator which costs 250 dollars to fix it. My toyota is just 55K. I thought mine will last longer than that. Does anyone have this kind of problem also?
    By the way,I usually close the door with window a little bit opened, will that make this happen? :confuse:
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    did you mean you filed a complaint with the NHTSA?
  • w9cww9cw Posts: 888
    I recently rented a 2007 Camry SE 4-cylinder 5-speed automatic from Budget for a 1,500 mile round trip to NY from IL. The car had just a tad over 8,000 miles on the odometer when I picked up the car from Budget.

    I noticed absolutely no driveability problems or hesitation either during the warm-up period from a cold start, or when it was up to full operating temperature. This is was on two-lane roads, interstates, and city driving.

    The only problem I did notice - big time - was a problem with the cruise control while driving through hilly terrain in PA. The cruise control was useless. With the cruise control on and cruising with the tach reading around 1,800RPM and negotiating a slight incline on the interstate, the transmission dropped down two gears, and the tach immediately peaked at 5,000RPM.

    I have a 4-cylinder with a 4-speed automatic that functions fine through hilly terrain, so Toyota does have a real problem with the cruise control in the 4-cylinder Camry. However, my personal car does not use drive-by-wire technology, rather a mechanical connection from the accelerator to the throttle assembly. Again, I did not experience any hesitation problems, or flat spots, during acceleration at all during the entire 1,500 mile trip. Given the number of complaints of this nature, I wonder why I didn't have the problem on the rental?
  • Fairly common problem with newer toyotas, apparently.

    Check ntsb complaints on 2004 highlanders. Lots of hesitation issues filed with the feds. Who knows what happens then....

    I've complained to Toyota to no avail about hesitation issue on Highlander 5 speed. Same kind of issue you describe with Camry. The delay drives me nuts.

    Good luck! :blush:
  • jimmy57jimmy57 Posts: 5
    Indeed, we are also experiencing erratic behavior with the cruise. This car spends more time at 4,500 rpm and higher than I have ever seen. We live in New Hampshire, and the car downshifts into third on even the slightest grade. All that said, I do not expect a fix for it real soon. The hesitation problem, however, needs attention immediately. It's really risky driving in heavy traffic, or on steep inclines, where I said in my original post, the car simply dies; sometimes stops completely.
  • mbolivermboliver Posts: 55
    Hi Jimmy, have you made any progress on this issue? I just ordered a 2007 LE with manual trannie and now I am scared and wondering if I should cancel the order. Please let me know any updates on this you have. Thanks!
  • jimmy57jimmy57 Posts: 5
    I am flattered that so many people are looking to me for advice; it's nice to know that people are responding. A master "guru" Toyota technician is scheduled to come to my Vermont dealership this coming week to drive a similar car (perhaps mine too) and he will assess the problem. The problem seems to be indigenous to the five-speed automatics, but I do not know for sure. Perhaps we'll have them drive a manual as well, if there's one on the lot. I'm on vacation this week, but I am checking my posts regularly. I believe Toyota is doing the right thing at present, and in my best interest...we'll see.
  • jimmy57jimmy57 Posts: 5
    I'm giving Toyota chance to make this right. I am a six-time Toyota, five time Camry owner, and my dealership of twenty years is trying their best to resolve my issue. That's the best one can hope for at present. I don't know that "seeking a higher authority" is necessary at this point. I'm going to give Toyota a chance to make it right. Thanks for reading my post.
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    To get to the water pump weep hole, you have to remove the timing belt cover, real simple, just a couple of bolts or screws. Then, look ant the water pump near the mid upper part of the engine. Dont confuse with the oil pump, that is on the bottom. Look underneat the water pump pully and you will see a little hole. If it is discolored, your water pump is bad. Also, after all is put back together, take a Long long screwdiver or a tethlescope and run the engine. Listen to the water pump area by sticking the screwdriver head or stethlecope to the water pump area, which is indicated by a radiator hose on the left side of the engine coming out o f the engine. If you hear any noises such as a crunch...crunch or whining noise, you need a new pump. If all is bad, replace the thermostat when your mechanic replaces the pump, do it while its apart. A thermo is about 10 bucks. If there are still problems, there is only one last thing that can be happening causing overheating, a bad head gasket.
  • mbolivermboliver Posts: 55
    Good luck! Keep us posted! :)
  • lkzlkz Posts: 1
    I share your problem with the 4 cylinder and as a matter of fact my Camry has been at the dealer's now for a combined 2 weeks. I have a rental. I refused to keep on driving my car. I have a reference number with 1-800 number as well. The district manager drove my car on Tues and now three people agree there is a problem. They have been in touch w/Toyota manufacturing who told them to try the oxygen sensor (DID NOT WORK). The head of the service dept actually found the same problem in two other cars on the lot. Thing is the rental drives great. So, apparently this is similar to the problem they are having with the 6-cylinder transmission problem. On the 800 number they acknowledge the 6-cylinder problem and state that .5% of the cars have this problem. Apparently not all the 4-cylinders are having this problem. It is terrible to drive and I get mad every time I get in it to drive. I first thought it was me just getting used to 4-c vs. 300 M but then realized it was getting worse instead of better.

    I have been told that as of now they do not know how to fix it. I was told last week that "they" are working on a program (software?) that will re-program the car but this program has to be approved by the government first before it can be used.

    I want my money back as it seems that this is going to take forever. I am leaving the car in the shop for now and seeing what happens (how long they will let me drive a rental). Now I know though that this problem is being called in by others (there is another post here as well with the same problem).

    I live in NC.... Maybe we need to call and let them know that we know now there are others with the same problem?

    I had a 1999 300 M with absolutely no problems ever, car totalled in a head on, had to buy a car fast. Chose this Camry because of the good reputation of Toyota and the reasonable price....over a Sonata Hyundai. Now have been told that the Hyundai bought 10-14 Camry's and took them apart and rebuilt them and fashioned Sonata after this (really have been told this)...Maybe I should have bought the Hyundai.

    I do not think we should just wait for them. I think we need to be very loud in our frustration. It is not all the 4-cylinders apparently so if we do not make noises it may take forever..... Your thoughts?
  • I would be very interested in what the tech finds and how he diagnoses the problem.

    If you check my posts on the "2007 Camry Woes" forum, you will see that I have been dealing with this issue since March of this year and posting since May. Very briefly, my dealer, Copeland of Brockton, MA, requested a Toyota Field Technical Service Engineer to diagnose the problem, which is essentially like yours, and he duplicated the issue and then described it as "normal characteristics" of the vehicle on the service report. The Customer Experience Center (what a name - it is an experience for sure - all bad) just blew me off based on that description.

    You need to confirm that the tech is a Toyota FTS Engineer, not just a District Service Manager, and have your car diagnosed with a scan-tool. The tech needs to be looking for and recording the air-fuel ratio when the condition occurs, which will be when you apply increased throttle. If they only ride in or drive the car, they are not doing a detailed analysis of the problem, which means they are just trying to cajole you into accepting the problem. You should be driving, as you know what causes the problem and can tell the tech using the scan tool when he should start recording the pertinent data.

    I sincerely hope you will report back to us on the procedure and results. The people who are having this problem need to be kept informed. The 2007 Camry 4-cyl 5AT vehicles afflicted with this problem are UNSAFE, and sooner or later someone is going to be involved in an accident because of this failure to accelerate (hesitation) issue.
  • And yet another one!!!!

    I just posted to "Jimmy57" and found your post when I returned to the forum.

    It is very interesting that you stated I have been told that as of now they do not know how to fix it. I was told last week that "they" are working on a program (software?) that will re-program the car but this program has to be approved by the government first before it can be used.

    To me, this confirms that the lean condition on throttle application is a major part of the issue, since a (EPA?) re-certification means the engine emissions will change with the application of the fix, which must use a richer mixture when calling for acceleration.

    Thanks for your post, and please keep us informed of any updates you might be given.

    My dealer, Copeland of Brockton. MA, has been as helpful as they can be, but Toyota is not being up front with this issue at all - but more and more owners are starting to come forward complaining about it. Although not as "in-your-face" as the 6AT C-clip problem, this issue is going to "sting" Toyota. The word is spreading about it and more people are doing some serious thinking about buying a new Camry.

    All of us with the hesitation issue should post our dealers name and what is/has been done for us. I'd be willing to compile the list and post it on a regular basis as it grows.
  • damon34damon34 Posts: 124
    I am sorry all of you are having this problems with ur 2007 camry 4cyls but i am glad that I am not nuts. Everybody is almost describing their car almost to a T like my car acts. Hesitation problem dangerous at times. barely climping up hills. THe cuise control is terrible i dont even use it.But what nobody has answered yet is if their gas mileage has went from good to bad like mine. Mine has lost about 4 to 5 miles per gallon. But nobody else has said anything about theirs so i am just wondering?
  • flyingjflyingj Posts: 7
    You're not nuts...Toyota is nuts! I am getting 19 miles to the! :lemon:
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Posts: 52
    Just an update on my coolant problem. I filled the radiator up and the reservoir. After doing so I drove about 2 hours and it went down a little in the reservoir. I topped it off again and checked the radiator again and the radiator was full. It has been a whole day and the car has lost no more coolant. What could have caused the leak stopping, if there ever was one? It lost an entire reservoir and half of what was in the radiator, during this summer. Could it all have just boiled off? Or do I still need to change the water pump, thermostat, and timing belt. The belt was changed at 80,000 miles and it now has 186,000
  • ach1199ach1199 Posts: 1
    Hi, I am having same problem with my 99 Camry. Was the problem turn out to be the Turn Signal Relay or something else? If it was the relay then where did you find it on the car? I looked under the hood in the fuse box and could not find it. Thanks.
  • aruaru Posts: 1
    Hi! I'm in the market for a 2007 SE 4 cyl. But I'm rethinking my choice after reading about the hesitation problem. Is this problem only present in this particular model? Will I fare better if I purchase the 6 cyl or a different model?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Until just recently the only engine/transaxle delay hesiation common threads, seemingly, was Toyota/Lexus, DBW, FWD or front biased AWD, and the V6 w/5-speed.

    Several reports of the problem on the new RAV4 indicate it may have now propagated to the I4. Is the RAV4 I4 mated to the 5-speed?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "...Chose this Camry because of the good reputation of Toyota and the reasonable price....over a Sonata Hyundai. Now have been told that the Hyundai bought 10-14 Camry's and took them apart and rebuilt them and fashioned Sonata after this (really have been told this)...Maybe I should have bought the Hyundai..."

    I can't say you should've bought a Sonata. And, not to rub salt in an open wound, I'll relate my experience. After my '96 Accord was totaled (Sound familiar? ;)), I did buy a Hyundai Sonata V6. 3 2/3 years later the only warranty issue to date was discovering a defective cabin dome light fixture switch shortly after delivery. I'm no expert, but I doubt Hyundai intentionally patterned any of the Sonata's key mechanicals specifically after those of the Camry. I don't doubt Hyundai engineers took a Camry or two apart to observe and study Toyota's design considerations (Accords and Altimas, too, for that matter), since that's SOP for nearly all automakers. In other words, why "re-invent the wheel" from scratch when others have already gone down that road? And, if it ain't patented, it's fair game.) However, by observing how others have handled a particular issue, they then have the opportunity to make it better or cheaper (or even both if they're really clever).
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    If the coolant level has stabilized, just drive the car and watch it. You may've had the simplest "problem" in the book after a coolant changeout: trapped air inside the system. If so, it sounds like it's finally worked its way out and burped into the overflow bottle. Since the liquid in the bottle is heavier than air, when the engine cools, it sucks coolant out of the bottom of the bottle to equalize the radiator coolant level as the coolant contracts when it cools. Just keep an eye on it. Once a week you should remove the radiator cap before starting the engine when it's cold to check the level in the radiator. The coolant level in a cold radiator should be right up to the ring in the filler neck that the radiator cap gasket seals against. Never remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot. Pressurized coolant hotter than the boiling point of water shows no mercy. You can be seriously scalded.
  • toyoman1toyoman1 Posts: 52
    Hey thanks for the advice, I had a guy here in town that is my dads friend agree to install a water pump, timing belt, and new thermostat for 320 dollars? This includes all the necessary belts and parts and labor. Is this a deal or am I getting ripped off? :(
  • penizzlepenizzle Posts: 104
    If that includes parts, that is a very good deal.
This discussion has been closed.