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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions



  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    White, Silver and Beige are the best for hiding dirt and scrathces. Dark colors look great when clean and waxed but are a terrible effort to keep looking good
  • wilcoxwilcox Posts: 583
    Due to the chalkness of Nu Finish, I think it accentuates the scratch marks on our dark green '96 Camry. Carnaba seems to tone them down a tad better IMO. But it takes a long time to get rid of the Nu Finish residue...
  • pacific1pacific1 Posts: 2
    2001 Camry V6 LE:At about 1800 miles the check engine light came on and the interior of the car smelled like pancake syrup, the problem ended up being a defective charcoal filter related to the exhaust system which was replaced under warranty. After this date the smoothness of the engine has considerably decreased, before you could not tell that the car was on and now it is not running extremely rough, but you can feel the engine is not smooth… it feels like the car needs a tune up and I am only at about 2800 miles now. Anyone with similar problems or any advice?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Why are you waiting to get this back to the dealer, under warranty. Even if someone here gave you the correct advice so what, the dealer would still have to fix it, not something you would do yourself. So, get on the phone and get that appt. to being it in.
  • jai7jai7 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Carry (bought it new) and have about 18,000 miles on it. The steering wheel vibrates when I cross 50 MPH. Also there is a funny noise from inside - kind of humming sound and gets louver with speed. The noise has been increasing over time. I don't know if these 2 problems are related. The dealer says it could be due to tires not being rotated frequently enough, but I don't quite buy it.
    Any insight into these problems will be greatly appreciated.
  • I have a 90 Camry with the driver-side automatic seat belt sticking. It will not retract when I start the car. The seat belt warning light remains flashing. I have made sure the emergency release is not on. Any ideas? Thank you.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    The motorized portion will probably have to be replaced. In the meantime, wear the lap belt -- it's better than being unrestrained completely.
  • wilcoxwilcox Posts: 583
    I don't know the solution. Was this a motorized track system that would automatically do something?

    The late 80's and early 90's Mazdas had a similar system. You may want to check with their owners also.

    Don't know if other vehicles possessed the motorized belt or not...
  • If you have General Tires on your Camry, that is the problem. Had the same problem from the day I bought my 1999 Camry LE new. They eventually replaced the Generals with Michelins which corrected the problem.
  • captainjcaptainj Posts: 31
    Gets 21.5. The way I drive, it should be 30+. Anyone have this problem, any ideas? Thanks!
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    I think 3K is kinda early for max gas milage. If I were you I would wait until 5K.
  • edwardh5edwardh5 Posts: 130
    Does anyone know the name of the shock absorber looking device thats mounted atop the motor and stabilizes the Camry 4 cyl engine?On passenger side
    Its like a kind of motor mount but more to stabilize front and back motion. About 8 inches long - rubber grommets and bolts on each end.
  • tkl2tkl2 Posts: 6
    Edwardh5, the device you describe according to my Haynes manual is called a "Engine Moving Control Rod". It is a steel rod with rubber bushings on both ends inside big round steel eyes.It limits the front and back motion of the top of the engine, Hope this helps!
  • captainjcaptainj Posts: 31
    If I find anything out, I'll post it here, and many other places as well (that's the internet for ya).
  • Hi there,

    Well, I currently own a 95 Corolla DX and am planning for a used Camry, pre 1997, preferrebly a XLE V6. Before I sign on the dotted line, I will look into Carfax and other reports.

    Question: There is a 1993 Camry Le V6 with 75K and odd miles on the market now along with a 1996 V6XLE (which I am not interested 'cuz of cigarette odor in the car, otherwise this car looks great).

    Toyota tells me that they do NOT have the service information on their system and hence they cannot tell me about timing belt replacement and important stuff like that. They told me to talk to the original owner and then speak to their mechanic - this is out of question and cannot be done.

    Any advice or suggestions or comments??? Better yet, if you know anyone selling, let me know.


  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I'd say if you can't verify the timing belt was changed, along with other items at the 60K or 75K service intervals, then you'll have to assume they weren't done.

    Just figure that into the price you ultimately pay.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    I believe the manual on my 92 V6 recommends 80K mile changes on the timing belt. If that is also true on the 93 (should be, they are identical) good chance it wasn't done. Cost around $200. You may want to consider changing the water pump at this age also, probably another $125. I wouldn't hesitate buying that car assuming the price was right of course! My 92 is pushing 185K with only normal maintenance. We like it better than our 97 V6.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I believe my manual says 60K timing belts.
  • wsommarivawsommariva Posts: 157
    My neighbor has a Corvette. His remote unlocks my doors. (2000 Solara) The dealer says they can't do anything about it. Any ideas? Is the dealer correct?

  • edwardh5edwardh5 Posts: 130
    Any idea how to diagnose this??

    94 Camry, 4 cyl, automatic 90k miles, - very very slight clunk noise from front on moving from a standstill, wheels pointed straight ahead. If you let the car move a foot or two and slowly mash on accel, no clunk. No clunk at any other speeds.

  • wilcoxwilcox Posts: 583
    Just a guess. Otherwise driveline?
  • Hello Guys. I have a question concerning half shafts for a 91 Camry. (2.0 4cyl) I hear that there are 2 kinds of shafts for this year/model. What do I need to look for to differentiate between the two? Also how difficult is it to replace them?

    In addition, I need to know where motor mounts are located (the same vehicle)....Where are they located and what is the difficulty for replacing them?

    Thanks in advance!!!!
  • rjacobirjacobi Posts: 3
    I owned a 1995 4 Cyl Camry. I had frequent problems.

    The most irritating problem was the groaning and grinding in the front brakes. I took it to the Honda dealer several times and he could not fix it. He finally told me it was caused by metallic brake linings (the government outlawed asbestos, he said) and there was nothing he could do about it. I finally turned the rotors myself and installed NAPA brake pads. No more problems. Are Toyota pads low quality? If I could fix the problem, why couldn't the dealer?

    The A/C compressor would rumble each time it came on. The dealer replaced the belt, tightened the compressor and finally replaced the compressor. Nothing helped. He told me it was because the government outlawed R12 and the new freon R134a made compressors rumble. I never could fix the problem. Never knew what was causing it.

    The engine started smoking at 30,000 miles. The dealer replaced the valve guide seals. The engine started smoking again at 66,000 miles (I had a 60,000 mile warranty). This time he told me that it was my fault because I did not change the oil and the engine was sludged up. The engine was, in fact, full of sludge. I was able to prove by documentation that I had changed the oil and filter every 2500 miles. He claimed that the lube shop used inferior filters. I researched the issue and proved that the aftermarket filters were comparable to Toyota OEM filters. So, the dealer reluctantly fixed the problem again after I talked to the Toyota District Ombudsman about the problem.

    The dash rattled. I had the dealer fix it several times, but it would return after about 8,000 to 10,000 miles. Never did figure out how to fix it permanently. The rattle was to the left of the driver near the door post under the dash.

    The transmission started leaking at 40,000 miles. It was the pan gasket. I had the dealer change the fluid and filter and install a new gasket. About 6,000 miles later, it started leaking again. He tightened the bolts and it stopped. At 68,000 miles the transmission started leaking again at the gasket. Enough was enough. I sold the car.

    My question is this: Has Toyota owned up to any of these defects? Since I sold the car, I have learned that many people are having these same problems.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    The problem with the brakes was Honda pads on a Toyota. Or do you mean a Toyota dealer? I've had much better luck with Toyota pads than Napa so hmmmmmmm. I usually get 80-100K out of my front pads. The one time I didn't use Toyota pads (Napa) they squealed constantly so I put Toyota pads back on. Only hear grinding noises first thing in the morning which is normal oxidation from sitting overnight.

    Some of the 4cyl do have valve guide problems. The only thing it seems to do is smoke a bit during start-up. I've seen them with 200K and still doing the same thing so it's not like the engines about to blow up.

    I don't think any of your problems are big defect issues. You just got a somewhat problematic one. I mean they sell 300,000 a year and if it was a huge issue it would be very obvious. There is probably 2 or 3 million of these things on the road, you'd see them lined up on the berms. I've put over 400K on 3 different Camrys and have spent very little on repairs. Going to buy my fourth when the redesign comes out in the fall as long as I can get heated seats:)
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Seems like your problems weren't all that serious except the sludging. Recommend you re-post your story in "Engine Sludge?" It mostly concerns Toyotas. Yours seems to be the only one where sludging occurred despite frequent oil changes AND you actually got Toyota to pay for it. We'd love to hear more details.

    I had the blue smoke on startup and my valve stem seals were replaced under warranty ('97 Camry 4-cylinder at 57K miles). I had no sludge though.

    Auto transmission pan gasket leaked? How many cars of any make/model with auto trannies go more than about 50-60K without some kind of leakage ?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    My auto tranny in the 92 SE V6 I have does not seep or leak fluid. I have used synthetic since 25,000 when the filter was replaced, since then I just pull the plug and drain and fill every 30,000

    However, I cannot say the same about oil seepages. Valve covers which I seemed to have stopped by tightening the bolts but now may have a seal seepage but I have 132,000 on the engine.
  • yudyud Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Toyota Camry LE and recently I noticed that there is a creak sound coming from the whole interior body of the car, especially the front area, whenever I change the speed of the car or go over a bump. It seems to me that this strange sound didn't come up until the timing belt was changed by a toyota dealer. I am just wondering if anyone knows what the problem is. Thanks a lot.
  • fivespeedfivespeed Posts: 42
    That creak noise you hear may be cause by stress received from improper lift hoist application at service shop. Improper lifting can break body welds. When large uneven surface is encountered, the damaged frame will emit a "stress" noise.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Might be the pads that insulate the top of the McPherson struts...since you have no upper a-arms, the struts attach to the frame/body at their upper point and must flex at that point. So the "cup" or whatever various manufacturers put up there can wear out and you could get creaking, thumping, etc as the strut is stressed over bumps.

    Just a of many possibilities.

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  • edwardh5edwardh5 Posts: 130
    My clump noise as I started off with a 94 4 cyl Camry on light throttle was a broken front motor mount, you could stop the car in gear and hold the brake and give it some gas and see the engine lift up. The dealer test drove the car with me and said thats it. They implied that they see a lot of these broken. Replacement is $110 for parts and 150 labor, $276 total. That fixed it.
    They probably fail since they sit right next to the exhaust pipe and get "cooked" all the time.

    Anyone else seen this problem???
This discussion has been closed.