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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions



  • icehengeicehenge Posts: 9
    Can I have a suggestion of where to buy mechanical parts for my '98 Camry?
    Of course the dealer is an option anyone else have a favorite parts website they order there Toyota goods from?
  • bkamalibkamali Posts: 4
    Hi All,
    I have a Camry 97 V6-XLE. Its right signal lights sometimes go fast and sometimes normal. The lamps are Ok. Does anybody have any such experience and is there any way to fix it?
    Thanks and regards.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Normally when a turn signal is blinking fast, it is a symptom of more current being drawn thru the circuit than is normal. Most of the time that I've seen, there is a bad bulb that has a filament that is flopping around and touching the second filament in the bulb. This reduces the resistance, causing more current to flow, which causes the blinker to cycle faster.

    Look VERY closely at any bulb that has 2 filaments in it.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Actually in the '97 Camry (and I assume the similar '98 and '99 models), the problem is in the front park/turn light bulb contacts. You need to remove the front bulb, gently clean the contacts on both bulb and socket (use a pencil eraser on the latter), and reinstall the bulb. You can put in a new bulb just to be sure.

    This happened repeatedly on my '97 Camry, but only on the LEFT side, for some reason.
  • boscojijiboscojiji Posts: 4
    Is anyone experiencing an issue on your toyota camry where pressing the gas pedal is needed to start your car in the morning but then after that all other starts for the rest of the day is fine?? Do you think the mixing of Ethanol in the gas a factor??

    Please advise.
    Thank You.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    In general, hard starting is related to poor ignition, air, and/or fuel delivery. You really need to have an expert put your car under diagnostics to track the problem down rather than futilely start throwing parts at it in hopes of scoring a bullseye.

    My 2003 Soanta's V6 starts and runs just dandy on 10% gasahol (which is fortunate since that's all I can buy where I live). I doubt Hyundai knows anything not already known by Toyota. At least from 1996 (the earliest year I still have an owner's manual for), all cars sold in the U.S. (including Alaska) were designed to operate properly on 10% ethanol blends.
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Posts: 301
    It's nothing to do with the fuel.Have your air/idle valve replaced,it's very common.The valve gets stuck in the closed position preventing more air for high idle at cold starts.You will have to get the part from Toyota.
  • I have 97 Camry LE, 4 Cylinder. Recently, Toyota Service Tech finds that there is an engine oil leak in the front axial and will cost 2K to repair it. I let it go thinking all I have to do is adding more engine oil regularly.

    Soon after that, "check engine" light come on for different problems. This time, it is "engine gasket" and will cost 500 to fix it.

    I don't know much about car. I am wondering how serious it is for this engine gasket problem? The car appears to be running fine but this amber check engine light worries me. Any advice?

  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    I recommend that you take your car to an independent toyota repair garage. If you have a head gasket out you must have over heated the engine and to replace the front O ring on the trans any toyota garage should be able to fix that problem for just a few hundred dollars or less. Have some one check your oil to see if you have any water in the oil from the blown head gasket if that is the gasket you are talking about. Any good toyota shop can check things out and save you money.
  • terrygutterrygut Posts: 7
    I experience a really tough transition from deceleration to acceleration on my manual 2005 Camry. I try to pass it smoothly but it jerks, even shocks sometimes. It's worse when AC is on. I believe that it happens since the emission control system cuts a gas supply too sharp. Does anybody know how it could be adjusted? Thanks.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Take your car to a dealership's service department for inspection and resolution - it should be a warranty item since the car's under two years in service. Drive a demo to verify the problem really is a "problem" vs. normal for other camrys with that engine/transmission combination. Could be your driving technique, too, if you routinely run the engine revs up to stay in the power band through the lower gears - not unusual with oversquare, DOHC I4s.
  • terrygutterrygut Posts: 7
    I've been at my dealership with this problem twice. They do agree that this car is not the best one in this matter (we have also tested another one which is much better). However, they don't want to change any setting in the emission control system, although they let me know that it's technically possible. It seems that I need to do it by myself.

    I'm always with the manual transmission, I4s. This car is really different from others.
  • jazzkattsjazzkatts Posts: 2
    When I turn my ac on the idle drops down to 5oo rpm. I think it will kill so I turn off the ac. When I am on interstate it works ok. Also when I turn it on and give it gas, there is a terrible screach-sounds like belt(s) lose?
  • chittychitty Posts: 5
    I have a 07' SE V6 and the trunk support broke. It seems to made of recycled cardboard and is about 1/8" thick. It could not handle the weight of a 80# bag of softner salt. Toyota said they would not replace it. The piece of crap cost $96.00. You think they would have used plastic or laminated particle board or even masonite board. Toyota so far does not impress me with their warranty. I am starting to miss Honda.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    I understand your aggravation at Toyota's refusal to cover a replacement support under warranty but it isn't the end of the world. I wonder how much trouble would be involved in buying the same thickness (or moving up to 1/4") of Masonite at a home improvement center and having it custom cut to the same shape as the broken support. Once the pattern's traced onto the Masonite piece from the broken piece, I doubt a cabinet shop would charge much to make the finished cut with its shop jigsaw if you're uncomfortable attempting it by hand. You can bet it wouldn't be anywhere near $96.00

    (Note to self - do not attempt to transport bodies for burial in rural New Jersey in new Toyota Camry trunks.

    -Tony Soprano)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Yep, the compressor belt's stretched and it needs to be re-adjusted or replaced. (If the belt's new, it just needs to be re-adjusted - a new belt will stretch slightly after initial use.) The engine idle speed drop when turning on the A/C will be a little more complicated. The engine computer's supposed to get a signal at A/C compressor engagement at idle speed to increase engine idle speed by a couple hundred RPM automatically to compensate for the compressor's drag on the engine. On older carbureted cars something, perhaps as simple as a solonoid "kicker" working against carberetor linkage, would need to be adjusted or replaced.
  • just1guyjust1guy Posts: 19
    Good post and excellent answer . I'll cut some plywood for my trunk as soon as the car is delivered .
    But it is hard to believe that the support is that flimsy.
    I transported many bags of sand and cement in many different cars and that never happened to me .
  • hgmoosehgmoose Posts: 1
    hello everyone, my driver's side window does not power down. Can anyone tell me if i need to replace the window motor or regulator. The other windows are functioning properly.
  • teamharveyteamharvey Posts: 2
    What size bolts are needed to use as jacking screws ? Or is there a better way to get the drum off.

    Thanks a ton,
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Since I no longer have my '97 Camry (which would be the same as the 2000 model), I can't tell you the size. I just found the right ones by trial-and-error using my ever-expanding collection of miscellaneous bolts, washers, and other fasteners. This is the best way to get the drums off, especially if you can use 2 bolts at a time (for both holes).
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    The trunk support is made of something like masonite, not recycled cardboard. It's no different from that used in the '97, '04, and '05 Camrys, all of which I have had. Never had a problem.

    One key difference though is the '07 uses a temporary spare, so there could be more of a gap between the tire and the support. I'll have to check this out on an '07 my employer recently bought.
  • I recently purchased a used 99 Camry with after market alloy wheels. When I took it to a shop to correct vibrations above 60mph by aligning the mechnic showed me that the wheels (all 4) were out. :surprise: That is they are not completely circular which per him is the cause of the vibrations. I am guessing from what he showed me hes correct ! :sick:

    As I am not the buyer of the wheels I am not sure what size they are ! The tires show a size of P235/40R18. Does it mean the rims are 18 inch. The max size I could find were 17" !!!

    Is this wheel/tire size okay for a 1999 Camry CE. I read the standard size for Camry is P195/70R14. What are my choices to fix this. Repair the wheels or buy a new set. Is going for a complete set of 14" wheels and tyres recommended. Would fixing the wheels or buying new 17/18" cause wear on the car !!
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    You cannot fix alloy wheels (at least it's generally not recommended). Yes those are 18 wheels and absurdly low-profile tires for this car. Just pitch them (or maybe someone will buy the tires if they're in decent condition).

    Personally, I'd strongly recommend buying a new set of 14-inch steel wheels for the car and the proper size tires, which you've identified correctly. Wheels shouldn't be bought used, unless you know what kind of use/abuse they've been subjected to!

    If you must have alloys, they will cost more (probably a lot more), but to me it seems overkill for a 7-year-old base model Camry.
  • teamharveyteamharvey Posts: 2
    8mm bolts..thanks !
  • it all depends on how much you want to spend. I'd recommend going to and searching for a set of 4 wheels and tires. Then take the price that they quote you for, and go to a tire shop in your area such as discount tires, and have them price match. You could just order on line, but local shops will likely include lifetime rotate and balance. Thats what I did. I went from 14 to 16" wheels on my 93 for 1K installed.
  • Thanks.
    What do you think is a good place to get wheels. Many options for tyres. But confused on where to get OEM wheels without getting ripped.
  • i am on a budget. as is the car is old. dont want to spend big bucks on it. looking for the OEM 14" wheel online, not much luck.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    You have two options for 14" OEM wheels:

    1) a dealer - the expensive, but safest option

    2) an auto-recycler (aka, "junkyard") - make 'em put the wheel on a spindle so you can judge whether they rotate true. After you leave the premises with used wheels, they're generally YOURS unless you make arrangements beforehand that they can be returned if the people who mount and balance the tires determines that the rim(s) is/are unuseable.

    (From your description of the condition of the alloy rims that were on the car, I get the impression that some pock-faced teenie-weenie with a compensation attitude jumped a curb while street racing or otherwise driving erratically and bent the rims out of true. If the tires on that car were involved in my hypothetical account, there's a good chance there's tread belt damage to them, too. As far as cast alloy rims are concerned, metal fatigue is the major concern. Once bent out of true, the strength is compromised. When bent back true (if it's even possible), the strength is additionally compromised. Is it really worth being penny-wise and pound-foolish where the lives of you and your passengers are concerned?)
  • There's always ebay....
  • I have a 1998 Camry with about 68k original miles on a 2.2L 4-cyl engine. My wife was driving and suddenly the car simply died. Towed it to a mechanic and he told us the timing belt broke.

    My mechanical skills are slightly above "remove/replace alternator". I tackled a timing belt on a Chrysler minivan V-6 before - but it was not something I enjoyed! However, in the interests of saving a few hundred dollars, I can suffer some skinned knuckles.

    Is a timing belt on this Camry engine something I might consider doing myself? Or is it one of those jobs that's worth every penny to have a mechanic perform?

This discussion has been closed.