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Buick Rendezvous Overheating
My wife has told me that the heat gauge is going way up and last night it went clear to the red line. I check all of the fuses, they were good, and then I looked at the relays for the cooling fan and could not tell if they were burnt or not.
The cooling fan comes on and runs for about 10 seconds and shuts off..... Is this how it is supposed to run, or should I replace the 3 relays that I cannot check....
Thanks for any help possible.
The cooling fan comes on and runs for about 10 seconds and shuts off..... Is this how it is supposed to run, or should I replace the 3 relays that I cannot check....
Thanks for any help possible.
0
Comments
We recently had the cooling system flushed, because it had gunk inside of the radiator, maybe they may have not put enough coolant back in it. Because when I was checking the realays I also, put some dex-cool in the overflow tank.
If I am having to add it, what could be the problem.....I dont see any leaking on the ground, or do I see any of it in the oil.
I hope there is nothing seriously wrong with her car.....She loves it.....
Thanks,
SM
I would appreciate any feedback....
I hope this helps out in any way.
I am from GM Customer Service. I apologize that you are experiencing a concern on your vehicle. Can you please email me more information about your situation, so I can look into it further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
It wires fuse in the location I indicated it can cause the problems mentioned. Short curcuit with lights not working or working intermittance and other wired things. I needed the wiring redone in this area. A bit of slicing and dicing and sodering.
The overheating problem will never go away!
I realized there was a problem when I raised the hood and tremendous gust of heat hit my face!
The engine is in a restricted compartment area under the hood with very little exit to remove heat buildup!
The heat just keeps building up! So badly, it blisters the paint at the only escape rout that it has near the rear center of the hood ,
With an inspection, you can see the rubber guard on the hood seals off the windshield and the heat crawls to the two ends of that rubber seal then back to the highest point at the center of the hood..
The compartment is not big enough to keep the engine from it’s own heat!
The cause is a bad design of the engine vent system!
I cut away the top half of the rubber seal at center (2 foot wide x 1”) That way there is still enough left for water run off from windshield area .. Be careful not to cut away in front of air screened vents My CXL is now a cool tool...
Bud Crawford Coopersburg PA 18036
Instead of cutting away rain gutter material, I wonder if installeing a rear facing hood vent would be much better? Simply cut a hole in the rear / center of the hood and instead of mounting a forward facing hood vent, simply install its opening in a rear facing position. This way, air flow is sucked into the front hood and pushed out the top of the hood. Especially while driving down the road. And, its factory rain gutters remain untouched - "as factory design".
For a few pictures of low profile "bolt on" hood vents, surf:
http://www.globalgroupbuy.com/images/products/p/gb0918_p.jpg -> install with its opening facing the windshield.
http://www.iagperformance.com/images/products/exterior/hoods/seibon/HDS0203SBIMP- -STI/image_01_600.jpg -> install with opening rear facing.
etc. etc.
Overall, I do love your idea of "keep it cool". Keeping the inner engine compartment cool (especially during hot summer months) is a great idea...
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If wondering, I had a previous 2.0L 4 cyinder engine and its heat temp dial would go nuts as well. Its dial would move up and down - as if the grand stand folks were doing a "giant wave" - back and forth - at a major sports event. The night before, I drove the vehicle to my mechanic and the next morning, he calmly removed its "cool temp" RAD cap. He let the 2.0L engine idle for 15-20 minutes (with gas cap off), then we both looked down "inside" the rad's top opening hole. We could see bubbles floating up - up from its rad fluid. Talk about weird!!! He explained that its head gasket is gone and its sucking air into the engine, then pushing air into the rad's cooling system. Yet, no rad fluid under the vehicle when sitting. If wondering, 3 days later, my wife & I traded that vehicle in. Based on its older age, it wasn't worth a $2,000 head job (with its heads plained down for better contact) repair.
Hope this helps...
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I am skeptical that that was the issue.
Can I check for a short with a multimeter (e.g., remove ground cable and check with an amp meter) or a code reader?
Thanks,
Tim
I am trying to post a question in the Electical forum, how the heck does one do that?
I've only been using computers every day for work for 24 years so I need some help.
thanks,
tim
Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
Go to the last page of the discussion and you'll find a posting box.
If wondering, one of my previous vehicle's had blown engine gaskets. It took $2,000 to repair / replace its gaskets as well. Thus, their price range of $1500 + taxes is reasonable cost of repair. If getting gaskets replaced, ensure they "plane the flat surfaces" as well. Thus, getting a much better seal. And, to remove any warps - that might have been created from over heating...
Good luck....
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Can you please email me your VIN, current mileage, and involved dealer? I would like to look into this further for you.
Christina
GM Customer Service
I purchased my 2002 Rendezvous knowing I could fix the problem, the original owner told me replaced a head gasket but it was still running to hot! So much so, it blistered some paint on the hood!
I fixed the problem by simply cutting an inch away from the rubber seal at the highest point of the hood area.. (1" x 2 feet from center..)
I've never had a over heating problem since......... Bud Coopersburg PA
Instead of cutting away factory rubber seals (that is used to protect the engine from water / cold slush), perhaps it would be much better to install a low profile air vent on top of the factory hood. Instead of facing its opening forward (like on race cars), simply have its hood opening facing to the rear (to the windshield direction). Thus, natural air flow into the vehicle's front rad, across the engine and "out" this low profile hood vent. And, no factory rubber seals are "cut away" either. If wondering, many hood vents have filter screens. Thus, eliminating (dramatically reducing) water from entering into the hood opening.
For a few pictures of low profile / afordable hood vent, surf:
http://www.sourcingmap.com/universal-car-auto-plastic-hood-scoop-air-flow-vent-w- - - hite-p-53666.html
Note: Instead of installing this low cost hood vent with its opening facing forward, simply install it facing backwards. And if vehicle is driven in super hot climate, install 2 x low cost hood vents instead.
Also.... Not too sure about "over heating" being only a Buick RDV problem. If you do a google search of "3.4L engine gasket problem", you'll see lots of gasket problems on this specific engine. For example, Venture van, Aztek, GM cars and other Pontiac / Chev vehicles. Some say its the poor gasket materials used in 200-2004, some say its from Dexcool's "too acidic" formula and some say its from a bad design engine. And, some certified mechanics say its from all 3 reasons (regardless of vehicle model). Thus, not too sure if installing a hood vent (to create more air flow / cooling) under the hood is a proactive "fix all" for everyone. I'm sure it will help reduce the risk in super hot climate areas and in all, don't think its a proactive fix-all for everyone (with the older 3.4L engine).
Good luck with your Buick RDV....
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For example... My new GM vehicle kept having a dead battery after the vehicle sat for 3+ days. They checked this, they checked that. I kept telling them my vehilce's battery didn't hold a charge after sitting for 3+ days and they kept thinking it was a charging problem. I told them to "park it" for 4 days, remove its battery cables and "let sit". On day 4, they connected its battery cables, turned its key and as predicted, "click - click". Unknown to their belief, the brand new Delco battery wouldn't hold a charge after sitting for 3+ days. And it took 3 x visits for them to realize the customer (me) was right. Man, they should have had a V8 slap in the head thing as well...
Sorry to mumble on..... I do agree with you. Some GM dealers are useless in even simple diagnoses. Like diagnosing a dead battery. Sad to say but true....
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If wondering, my wife has a 2nd generation 2003 Buick RDV with 3.4L engine. Unknown to some, this configuration has a high risk of blowing its intake and head gaskets. My local mechanic tells me to drive the vehicle "softly", change its Dexcool every 3 years (instead of every 5 years) and don't pull a trailer with it. If / when its gasket goes, we either fix it or trade the vehicle in. Which ever is a better "cost analysis wise" - at that point in time.
You might want to implement the same proactive items on our Buick RDV as well. re: Change its Dexcool fluid every 3 years, drive "softly" and don't over stress it (like pulling a utility trailer). So far... No gasket blowing problems on our 2003 RDV....
Good luck with your RDV.....
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You only cut half way down leaving the shelf fo drain any water, like any of the older models. I did a test spraying water over the windshield with great pressure, not a drop got on the engine!
For cars left out doors and ice forming , put a windshield cover over that area.. (Any auto store sells them..)
My car has been this way for a year and runs pefectly cool now..
It is the only way! The encine sits in it's own heat and will destory itself..
The old addage was "Heat destroys engines" Good luck!
If you cut .. One Foot to the right and left from center will do it.. I could send a photo if you like,, buddo19ATPTDdotnet Bud
Yes. Heat destroys engines. Adding "more air flow" around an engine is a great idea. However, not too sure if cutting factory rubber seals (instead of safer means like vented hood vents) is a good thing to do. Especially if one lives in snow / ice covered driving condutions - that exists in upper USA regions.
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I know Buick & GM are a great car company with a long and decorated history, so I'm very surprised they would put a product out that would cause so many problems to the owners and tarter their reputation. I would think they would force the gasket manufacturer or the coolant chemical company to stand behind their product a bit better.
It costed me over $500 to rent a hotel room, rent a car to drive my family home and to tow my car home. I would of repaired it where it was, but since I was in a different State, I didn't know anybody there nor the repair shops.
Total repair bill was quoted around $1800 and may go higher. For a vehicle with under 85K miles, this is excessive. I've had many other vehicles over the years and head gaskets have always lasted well over 125K and as high as 200K miles. This is a surprise for Buick.
The problem is a bad engine compartment design! There is almost no vent above the engine, causing the engine to overheat bathing in it's own "heat chamber"
I did this as I know about heat related problems in automobiles..
1> The rubber guard just under the hood near the windshield is approx 2" deep..
Why? To keep water form rain and whatever off of the engine...
2> How to remedy this! Cut from the center of that guard one inch deep and one foot to the right and left form center ! A good sharp knife will do!
3> You will now have a great vent space as most all cars do at that area!
4? No fear of water getting on the engine as the one inch left will keep the water running off before hurting anything!
5> After I was done, I sprayed water with as much pressure as I could on the windshield to be sure water is not getting on the engine! NOT A DROP!
6> I did this to my 2002 and it has not overheated since that process! Two years now! Cool!
I read your previous posting and understand what you're saying, unfortunately it won't help me fix my engine problems now. We've driven our RDV for five years, and now are having overheating issues. If the rubber seal was the issue, I would think the problem would of presented itself prior to five years and 80K miles of daily use.
In addition to the heat buildup issue you are referring to, the gasket and coolant also have manufacturing or design defects that when put together, are causing the intake gasket to fail. If this was designed properly, there may not be a need to modify the rubber seal you refer to.
The bottom line lies with Buick/GM, the seal manufacturer and the coolant manufacturer. Someone should step up to the plate and take responsibility for the overheating issues without the consumers having to modify every vehicle produced, or if they want the consumers to re-engineer every car, they should pay us re-engineering fees. (which will never happen.)
Thanks for your input Buddo9, but my concern now is fixing the car my wife loves to drive on a daily basis (aka, fixing THEIR problem which has now become MY problem.)
I apologize for your frustrations. Have you taken the vehicle into the dealer? Can you email me with your VIN and contact information so I can look into this further. I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
In 2002/2003, GM did use a different intake gasket. The older version was thin material. The new replacement is much thicker and much better material. Also, Dexcool (GM's specialized anti-freeze) is much better today as well. Back then, Dexcool formula was too acidic (so I've been told). Today's formula is much more "gasket" friendly. GM recommends changing Dexcool every 5 years. My local mechanic recommends changing Dexcool every 3 years. Thus, less damage from its acid. Especially on the older gaskets. Yes. Heat kills. However, using Dexcool used more then 3 years on older intake gaskets kills much more. If wondering, my wife has a 2003 RDV and still on its original factory gaskets - because we change its Dexcool every 3 years and "drive it like a baby". And, its inner hood rubber seal remains factory as well. If I did want to add more hood ventilation, I'd add a $20 plastic hood scoop on its front hood. Thus, allowing proper ventilation - without allowing water / ice into its engine compartment...
Hope this helps as well...
Christina, I will e-mail you the information tomorrow and will look forward to hearing back from you. Thank you for posting up and for trying to help.
The most common reason is intake gasket problems (in the early years of 3.4L engines). Don't believe me? Do a google search using "3.4 overheating" text string. Within the auto repair field, its common knowledge that early 3.4L engines with their older material intake gaskets and Dexcool ATF don't like each other. Thousands and thousands of threads on 3.4L "over heating / intake gasket problems" in GM mini-vans and many other GM 3.4L sedan vehicles as well..... Patterns don't lie. The pattern is NOT lack of airflow under the hood.
As stated by previous person, get the vehicle inspected by "certified" auto mechanic. Don't be removing hood rubbers - thinking its the Root Cause. Just like I'd only get an electrical certified person to investigate my home's electrical problem - instead of applying something that an uncertified person recommended on the internet.
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Up until Monday my car has never had a problem with getting to hot. The temp has been consistant and reliable. For the two years I have owned it, when it is running, the guage sits right to the left of strait up and down (every time, all the time). Then monday it shoots to the top I have a red Engine Temp. Light and the warning bell going off. After having it towed to the shop I find out it has a "Blown Head Gasket", then they start to take it apart and tell me the "Cylinder Heads are Cracked". They are quoting me $2200.00. It does sound like my problem is the DEXCOOL(?) may have ruined the gasket(s). My concern is that I never had a problem with my car getting to hot before this. Any feedback would be helpfull.
Thanks
Apparently your moter is vented well or this is some more propagada being bounced off of General moters for paid testimonials..... My CXL stayed hot from the day it was purchased! The only way to cure that was to give it a place to breath, ! Vented at the rubber guard near the windshield area! two years now and no problems!