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I recently installed an acrylic hood protector (Subaru part) on my new LL Bean, mainly to protect front of hood from stone damage. I am wondering how I am going to clean the paint surface underneath the protector? I know I am not going to remove the protector every time I clean/wax the car. I guess there will eventually be a diffrence in the finish of the paint under the protector compared to the paint elsewhere on the hood. Does anyone have experience in dealing with this problem?
I too have the hood protector (or deflector). Before putting it on, I applied a good coat of wax in the area where it covers. When you clean the car, you can slip a thin towel underneath it to clean and/or dry it. In the spring, I'll remove/replace it when I put on the spring coat of wax.
It also comes off without much fuss (at least for me). Two screws and a 'pop' of the two clips and it's off. I've been taking it off during winter so I can run our Outback through the car wash (I know, it's not as good as a hand wash...that's a whole different thread) - without worrying whether or not the spray would damage it. And it gets clean underneath! I take the deflector inside and wash it off by hand.
Juice- I went on your site and to the site that sells the pressure washers. I too, am one of those women that believed that the house should be clean- but the car... well- you need to let some place slip in your life. My Toyota died this month, and I replaced it with a new outback with leather. Two weeks later my husbands car died, and I was so happy with the Subaru that he got a legacy. I would like to attempt to keep it clean- so the pressure washer is appealing. I am confused - there is no washer for $99. There are 2 that have 1300PPI. What about the post that warns it will take off the paint? How careful do I need to be? Also, I we both have leather seats- and my son already managed to mark up one with a pen. Any suggestion on leather care? Thanks
To remove ink off leather, I'd try something like Super Clean. Spray it on, let it soak, wipe off. Follow up with Lexol conditioner so it doesn't dry up. Lexol may also have a cleaner, now that I think about it.
1300psi can strip paint, but only if you adjust the stream to the most narrow setting and are close up to the car. You should use a wide stream, and then there is no danger of that. I don't really get close enough to the paint, either.
i have a sticker on my rear window, parking permit for my building. someone peeled off part of it and i would like to get the rest of it off. i tried just peeling it off but it is really on there. it is clear, plastic, and really sticky. how the heck do i get it off of there with out scratching my window? can i use a bug/tar remover to get it off or is there a trick to it?
It's one of those citrus-based cleaners. Available at hardware or home improvement stores, sometimes even grocery stores. Put a little on a rag, rub it on the offending sticker, and off it will come. Follow with the glass cleaner of your choice. Goo Gone also works well on removing stickers off chrome - I used it to remove parking decals off the bumper of my Studebaker after I brought it home. I find it works better than most bug 'n tar cleaners and doesn't smell as bad, that is unless you find smelling like a giant orange offensive.
Another alternative: If you know anyone who works in a hospital, have them get a couple "adhesive removal packets" - used for removing tape residue from patient's skin. Look like alcohol wipes, but smell like dry cleaning fluid.
i used to work at a furniture store doing delivery. we had that goo gone stuff, to get various things off of the furniture. it is super corrosive and we were told not to use it on glass or painted surfaces. i will check the local hardware store and see what they have.
Another common solvent is rubbing alcohol. It's cheap. Don't put it on painted surfaces. Works good on glass.
How I remove stickers: heat with blow dryer until warm to the touch. Peel warm part slowly. Remove remaining adhesive with alcohol (assuming no paint).
the goo gone stuff is supposed to be used on light finished wood and metals. we wore latex gloves when we had to use it.
what do you rub the sticky stuff off with? a plain rag, should i scrub it with that soft steel wool (i use it on the inside of my windows when i clean them), a scrub pad, what?
yeah! another little trick i learned. go to a hardware store and ask for the softest steel wool they have. if they give you a funny look just ask where all of the steel wool is. it usually comes in a bag. it is soooooo fine that it doesn't scratch your glass. there are different grades of steel wool, the one to use i something like 00. i cant' remember, i just have a fistful of it from work. spray windex on the area, scrub with the steel wool in circular motion and wipe with paper towel. it's what some detailing shops use. the difference is amazing. the lady who had my car before me was a smoker, i would clean my windows every week with windex, any cleaning solution i could get my hands on and i still had this film on my windows. i called a detail shop, told them my problem and the guy told me how they would deal with it. give it a try.
Being from Canada, I spend 1/3 of the year in subzero temps. How can I keep a fresh coat of wax on my beloved '01 Legacy when it's freezing outside from Nov to Apr? I don't know anyone with a heated garage so am I left to get it professionally done?
You might want to consider is using a synthetic wax (aka. sealants like Klasse, NuFinish, Meguiars #20) instead of traditional waxes. Synthetics go on and off easier and they also last longer.
I've recently been trying some of these products and have been pleased with the results.
Look into an acrylic protector such as Klasse! I have just used Klasse for the first time on my new OB. It is great stuff and can be apllied to all the surfaces including the wheels. It is a bit pricey but is supposed to last a very long time. Also, it is extremely easy to apply. I used the Klasse "All-in-one" and then followed that with a coat of the Klasse sealer glaze. The shine is great!!!
I would be weary of steel wool on windows. But, I know it is safe. Rain-x makes a window polish. I have yet to try it. but I have used regular polish and it worked. Use a fine one not coarse. I have a new bottle of rain-x at home and will use it this weekend. I will let you know.
For the Leather, Juice is right Lexol works very well. Lexol does make a cleaner as well. But I just use a damp cloth to clean them. Never had ink problem!
The best thing that I have used is Nail Polish Remover. It works great and very effective. I think it works better than Alcohol. I used it to remove the temporary registration sticker in my back window.
Could not agree more that stuff is the best paint remover going, the WD40 works fine there are lots of safe solutions you can buy to do the job also. Cheers Pat.
I agree with using a blow drier on "high" setting. It really works. FYI - if you have a kid with an earache, it also works to use the blow drier on has high as your child can take it. Great for that "swimmers" ear ache. Talk about off topic!! But it is a good tool to have with ou often.
Last weekend my wife was removing a sticker with the blow dryer. She said she got a strange stare from our neighbor. Probably thinking, "those Subaru folks are nuts." Afterwards she used a citrus based adhesive remover for the leftovers. Dennis
What is a good and SAFE product to clean my OB's wheels. I have the Ltd. so the wheels are painted. I went to PEP boys last night and there are tons of products. Some of them have acids and stuff.....ewwwww not good. Any ideas? Thanks.
I just use the same detergent that I wash the rest of the car with. If it's painted, why not?
The key is to wax it after you clean it. That keeps the brake dust off, and also keeps ice from sticking to the inside of the wheel in bad weather and throwing your wheel off balance.
It'll be easier to clean next time, to boot. It's totally worth the time/effort invested.
Do you actually clean the inside of the wheels? I did wax the wheels. I used the klasse. it does make them shine. What do you use on the tires themselves? Just Armor all? Also, I went to Napa auto parts and got a little container of Napa car wash. They only had that and turtle wax stuff. But since I waxed the car with Klasse I just needed a cleaner. I hope the stuff doesn't harm the wax finish!
Well, I cheated. I ordered a set of alloys, so I had them off the axles. I waxed them before putting them on, so it was easy. They've been on for a few seasons and they still look pretty clean.
My suggestion? Wax them when you rotate the tires. That way you can do the back side, and prevent that ice build-up I was talking about.
For the tires, I have a spray, I forget who makes it. I use it sparingly so they don't shine excessively.
What do you all use to clean the dash and the other plastic parts of the interior? Just a damp cloth to wipe up the dust and stains? Some type of protectant?
I use lexol Vynelex<<<< Sp? It seems to work good. I also use their leather conditioner on the leather. So far so good. I think it is best to protect the plastic especially here in Sunny CA! Good luck!
I use a good old sticky tack rag for any horizontal surfaces that can catch dust, like the dash, console and arm rest extension. I used to use Armor All, Son of a Gun and the like but no more; not just because of dash glare but because it yellows plastic and rubber over time.
For the other surfaces I use the Novus system (1, 2, 3 in order of increasing abrasiveness). Novus 1 is good for the instrument cluster cover; it's just a cleaner and reduces static. Novus 2 is a fine polish for where you have light scratches or stains, like on the door sills and jambs. Novus 3 is a heavier polish and is good for when you really ding something plastic, like when the cargo shifts under hard acceleration and dings up the inside of the tailgate. I bought the Novus products at a local Harley-Davidson dealer, where they're sold to clean and polish Lexan windscreens, goggles and face shields (yes, I know most Harley riders don't have face shields on their "blood buckets").
I had a 10 year old Datsun in college. The dash was filthy when I got it, so I used Armor All to clean it. Looked great, but the next day I got a huge crack in the middle of the dash. Awful, right there in plain sight.
I can't prove the Armor All caused it, but for 10 years it was OK, and then 24 hours later a crack? That would be a pretty amazing coincidence.
Juice, Armor All is't a cleaner. It's a protectant. After ten years in the sun your Datsun dash had to be pretty brittle. Maybe the act of cleaning the dash caused it to crack. The same thing happened to me on a MA I had. The dash looked perfect until I cleaned it. It kind of turned to yellow dust.
Wow, I've heard that if you use Armor All and then stop, the plastic is more likely to crack, but I've never heard of your case!
That's one reason why I never take my vehicles to car washes; especially exterior and interior ones. They always slap on the Armor All even if you ask them not to.
Yes, Ken, and then they charge you for it afterwards! What's worse is that it's not always Armor All but some industrial grade stuff that has the look and feel, if not the smell, of Johnson's Baby Oil. That bear grease leaves your tires looking dirtier than when you got there in no time flat.
Another reason not to go to car washes is the swirls and damage they do to the (ahem) thin Subaru paint.
Juice, I guess your dash is one of those unexplained things that you'll always wonder about. Well they've come a long way in the field of plastics since Datsun & MG's were new. I don't think we'll have to worry about the Subie's dash cracking. Even on Miata's with all the sun they're exposed to don't seem to crack.
Are only good for damaging paintwork and trim, but the biggest reason for me to hand wash is that you stay ahead of all the little chips and everyday depravation to your pride and joy, and believe it or not getting out and washing my car is my way of unwinding and getting rid of stress, unless I find some previously unseen damage, then invariably Jesus Christ appears on the Scene no doubt by my use of his good name as a swear word. Cheers Pat.
Hi. I just bought a VDC Outback at Thomason's in Portland, OR and drove it home to Fairbanks Alaska (see messages 188 & 189 on the VDC thread). While initialing paperwork on the 3.9% financing I saw a NW package mentioned as one of many options on a list that I had to indicate I was not interested in. I asked the finance person what they were. She said they were sealants that provided added protection to the paint, interior and undercoating. When I asked her opinion about them she said she had the paint and interior protection on her car and thought that they worked great; dirt and bird droppings came off the paint much easier and spills in the interior did not stain and were easy to clean up. Paint was guaranteed against weather related fading, loss of gloss, permanent hard water etching, industrial fallout, bird droppings, tree sap, and acid rain for 5 years. The interior coating covered leather, vinyl and fabric and was guaranteed against fading and permanent staining caused by food, drink, and oil-based stains through normal use for 5 years. Both paint and interior coverage were renewable for free after 5 years with a free recoating good for 3 years, again renewable for free for life. (The company would supposedly have someone local reapply it for you, or if need be, send you the products so that you could do it yourself). The purpose of the undercoat was mostly to provide added sound reduction. The finance person did not appear to be pushing it at all and wasn't a salesperson so I opted for the paint sealant and interior sealant, thinking of the nearly 3000 miles ahead before I could wax - and traveling and eating and drinking coffee for a week and a half to 2 weeks with myself, wife and dog in car. The trademark for the products is 'Touch of Class' and the company name is 'Cal-Tex Protective Coatings' and they appear to be located in Texas. (They also do security glass etching known as 'A.T.P, Automotive Theft Protection).
Does anyone know anything about these products and how well they work? Or how easy it is to get claim service? Also, my car is currently encased in a thick layer of mud and temperatures are in the teens to low 20's. The only car washes open this time of year are enclosed drive through brush type that don't clean well and are liable to just grind the dirt into the paint. Any suggestions for cleaning? The local Subaru service recommended waiting until temperatures were in the mid-40's and cleaning by hose and by hand. Also, any recommendations as to whether I should still wax the car, despite the sealant? Also, what wax to use on the wheels? Thanks. Jim
Most definetly follow a regular wash and wax routine. The sealant applied to your vehicle is nothing more than a synthetic wax. While it may last longer than a off-the-shelf product, it is certainly not permanent.
You're right on about avoiding brush car washes. The best way to wash is by hand. If that's not possible, try looking for the "brushless" or "touchless" washes.
Any kind of wax, natural or synthetic, will help keep your paint and wheels clean. You can use whatever you buy for the paint for your wheels.
Ouch! I guess I was taken on that one. It was an incredibly expensive wax job; they charged $245 for that and $185 for the interior coatings. For $30 I could have applied Klase and for $5 could have covered the interior w/Scotchguard.
What's done is done. Look on the positive side and think of it as you paid $245-$30=$215 for insurance on the paint. Make sure they hold up to their end of the deal.
Comments
Also, no smoking in any of my vehicles. People who don't like that policy can take the bus! ;-)
-juice
It also comes off without much fuss (at least for me). Two screws and a 'pop' of the two clips and it's off. I've been taking it off during winter so I can run our Outback through the car wash (I know, it's not as good as a hand wash...that's a whole different thread) - without worrying whether or not the spray would damage it. And it gets clean underneath! I take the deflector inside and wash it off by hand.
-Brian
I did run the car through the car wash and did not see any damage to the deflector. I guess I'll remove it when I wax in the spring - as you suggest.
Thanks
1300psi can strip paint, but only if you adjust the stream to the most narrow setting and are close up to the car. You should use a wide stream, and then there is no danger of that. I don't really get close enough to the paint, either.
Try Wal-Mart, they sell them. Costco has one too.
-juice
Ed
bit
Cheers!
Paul
Just wash the area after you are done. I used it to remove several stickers from an 8 year old used Miata, including two on the windshield. Perfect.
Nice thing is, you probably already have a bottle around the house, so it'll save you a visit to the store.
-juice
Thanks for letting me know before I went and tried it!
Ed
How I remove stickers: heat with blow dryer until warm to the touch. Peel warm part slowly. Remove remaining adhesive with alcohol (assuming no paint).
Theo
-juice
what do you rub the sticky stuff off with? a plain rag, should i scrub it with that soft steel wool (i use it on the inside of my windows when i clean them), a scrub pad, what?
..Mike
..Mike
whoa, that soundes like an infomercial. scary.
..Mike
You might want to consider is using a synthetic wax (aka. sealants like Klasse, NuFinish, Meguiars #20) instead of traditional waxes. Synthetics go on and off easier and they also last longer.
I've recently been trying some of these products and have been pleased with the results.
Ken
Cheers Pat.
-juice
Look into an acrylic protector such as Klasse! I have just used Klasse for the first time on my new OB. It is great stuff and can be apllied to all the surfaces including the wheels. It is a bit pricey but is supposed to last a very long time. Also, it is extremely easy to apply. I used the Klasse "All-in-one" and then followed that with a coat of the Klasse sealer glaze. The shine is great!!!
I would be weary of steel wool on windows. But, I know it is safe. Rain-x makes a window polish. I have yet to try it. but I have used regular polish and it worked. Use a fine one not coarse. I have a new bottle of rain-x at home and will use it this weekend. I will let you know.
For the Leather, Juice is right Lexol works very well. Lexol does make a cleaner as well. But I just use a damp cloth to clean them. Never had ink problem!
Good luck!
That's a bit too harsh for my tastes. I prefer WD40 and some elbow grease.
-juice
Cheers Pat.
But it is a good tool to have with ou often.
Patti
Dennis
Even on the ears, apparently!
-juice
What is a good and SAFE product to clean my OB's wheels. I have the Ltd. so the wheels are painted. I went to PEP boys last night and there are tons of products. Some of them have acids and stuff.....ewwwww not good. Any ideas? Thanks.
The key is to wax it after you clean it. That keeps the brake dust off, and also keeps ice from sticking to the inside of the wheel in bad weather and throwing your wheel off balance.
It'll be easier to clean next time, to boot. It's totally worth the time/effort invested.
-juice
Do you actually clean the inside of the wheels? I did wax the wheels. I used the klasse. it does make them shine. What do you use on the tires themselves? Just Armor all? Also, I went to Napa auto parts and got a little container of Napa car wash. They only had that and turtle wax stuff. But since I waxed the car with Klasse I just needed a cleaner. I hope the stuff doesn't harm the wax finish!
My suggestion? Wax them when you rotate the tires. That way you can do the back side, and prevent that ice build-up I was talking about.
For the tires, I have a spray, I forget who makes it. I use it sparingly so they don't shine excessively.
-juice
TIA
-Dan
Then use the Lexol for deep cleaning, maybe when you wax the car for a full detailing.
-juice
For the other surfaces I use the Novus system (1, 2, 3 in order of increasing abrasiveness). Novus 1 is good for the instrument cluster cover; it's just a cleaner and reduces static. Novus 2 is a fine polish for where you have light scratches or stains, like on the door sills and jambs. Novus 3 is a heavier polish and is good for when you really ding something plastic, like when the cargo shifts under hard acceleration
Ed
I had a 10 year old Datsun in college. The dash was filthy when I got it, so I used Armor All to clean it. Looked great, but the next day I got a huge crack in the middle of the dash. Awful, right there in plain sight.
I can't prove the Armor All caused it, but for 10 years it was OK, and then 24 hours later a crack? That would be a pretty amazing coincidence.
-juice
Chuck
-juice
That's one reason why I never take my vehicles to car washes; especially exterior and interior ones. They always slap on the Armor All even if you ask them not to.
Ken
Another reason not to go to car washes is the swirls and damage they do to the (ahem) thin Subaru paint.
Ed
Chuck
Cheers Pat.
Does anyone know anything about these products and how well they work? Or how easy it is to get claim service? Also, my car is currently encased in a thick layer of mud and temperatures are in the teens to low 20's. The only car washes open this time of year are enclosed drive through brush type that don't clean well and are liable to just grind the dirt into the paint. Any suggestions for cleaning? The local Subaru service recommended waiting until temperatures were in the mid-40's and cleaning by hose and by hand. Also, any recommendations as to whether I should still wax the car, despite the sealant? Also, what wax to use on the wheels? Thanks. Jim
Most definetly follow a regular wash and wax routine. The sealant applied to your vehicle is nothing more than a synthetic wax. While it may last longer than a off-the-shelf product, it is certainly not permanent.
You're right on about avoiding brush car washes. The best way to wash is by hand. If that's not possible, try looking for the "brushless" or "touchless" washes.
Any kind of wax, natural or synthetic, will help keep your paint and wheels clean. You can use whatever you buy for the paint for your wheels.
Ken
What's done is done. Look on the positive side and think of it as you paid $245-$30=$215 for insurance on the paint. Make sure they hold up to their end of the deal.
Ken