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Isuzu Trooper Warning Lights and Gauges
Guys:
ABS light is ON, for a while it came and went, now it seems on all the time.
I read on this forum about a way to check for diag codes. Can someone relist the procedure, and what I am looking for. Where exactly do I find connecters #4 and #12 to jumper them.
Also, how are the diag codes read? is it a matter of counting the blinks?
I have seen something in my center console before, behind the break handle, had no idea what it was, now i know that this is probably the G sensor. Thanks to this forum.
Finally, how to reset codes for a 98.
Fluid level OK, car breaks OK. Auto Tranny, TOD. 160k miles.
Thanks.
John
ABS light is ON, for a while it came and went, now it seems on all the time.
I read on this forum about a way to check for diag codes. Can someone relist the procedure, and what I am looking for. Where exactly do I find connecters #4 and #12 to jumper them.
Also, how are the diag codes read? is it a matter of counting the blinks?
I have seen something in my center console before, behind the break handle, had no idea what it was, now i know that this is probably the G sensor. Thanks to this forum.
Finally, how to reset codes for a 98.
Fluid level OK, car breaks OK. Auto Tranny, TOD. 160k miles.
Thanks.
John
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For several months the "Check Engine" light has been coming on intermittently. The car briefly runs kind of doggy & won't accelerate, then light goes out and things go back to normal.
The other night I was driving home & a bunch of idiot lights came on all at once: low fuel warning (tank is full), O2 sensor, alternator & brake warning lights, & check engine. I made it home but when I try to start car, it starts, runs for about ten seconds with all of aformentioned lights glowing, then check engine light goes out and it dies.
I did a computer code check and got reading of 44,mixture lean, check O2 sensor. I replaced O2 sensor and fuel pressure regulator (new) and ignition module and computer (used). Fuel pump pumps fuel into a can when I take hose off. Still the same symptom: start, run 10 seconds, die.
Staring at wiring diagram I see the glowing idiot lights all run off the same fuse, which I have replaced. It seems to me there must be some electrical short that is affecting all these lights and possibly also some sensor or the computer. Anyone have any suggestions?
As the car did not come with owners manual and we have been unsuccessful in finding either the owners or repair manuals online for our referral... I was so happy to discover this website and all y'alls "wealth of knowledge"! Can anyone explain the O2 light, its importance, and its risks if not fixed? Does anyone know where I can locate a FREE, or next to free, owners manual or repair manual... preferably online as it is too hard to ship to CR. Thank you in advance for your help with keeping these Missionaries "on the road"! Robyn
-mike
I kept driving. Then engine started stalling on slow speeds and at traffic light stops. I kept jump starting and driving, starts OK. Hardly returned back to home. I put a new battery, but the problem persists.
- Did I burn the computer chip?
- Did I blow a fuse? How can I diagnose? What is wrong, how can I fix it? Check engine light NEVER come up.
Thanks
-mike
Hope this helps.
Have you cleaned the battery posts lately? Had any work done on the vehicle where something may have been disturbed?
How do you mean {"surge"?? Are you seeing this on the battery gauge or do you mean that the power comes and goes?
Does your blower motor quit when this happens, if you don't know, try to determine as that is a symptom of electrical problems that can lead to diagnosis.
oh and when i say surge i mean the battery gauge goes all the way to the max, the transmission will gear down,the transmission light will come on and some more lights on the dash will come on but then it will go away after a while.
and when you say blower motor what do you mean?
Bad alt if you don't find an obvious bad terminal or cable. Not cheap but easy fix .
Shift
?
There is one thing however that is bugging me to no end. The upshift light that comes on the dash when you are driving... I will admit that I don't pay it much attention as I am working my way up through the gears, but the what bugs me is once get to 5th.
Once I am in 5th gear and at my cruising speed, the light stays on constantly. It's like the car thinks that I have a 6th gear or something like that.
Obviously this does not effect the drivability of the vehicle, but I find myself driving down the road, glancing at the light and getting stressed out about the whole situation.
Has anyone ever heard of something like this and have an idea of where I would start to get it fixed?
I am definately not a mechanic, but if its not too terribly hard to fix I can usually at least get it done.
Any insight would be appreciated.
Thank you.
---------------------------------------------------
Compscott
At least now I know what it means!
Check the 4-low and see if it engages. If it doesn't then it's likely the SOTF vaccum or the unit itself. I left mine in AWD mode for a whole winter and when I tried to put it in 2wd, it wouldn't work. Same error message. Turned out because I hadn't changed mode (2wd -> AWD/4wd) the lube dried up and the unit siezed.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
There are no leaks in the transmission or transfer case. ATF in transfer case still looks a healthy, clean red color. Anyone run across a situation like this or have any suggestions???
since last month I bought this isuzu and I have some problem ,when I drive slow in control panel flash CHECK ENGINE and when I push power pedal its turn off .Can you explain whats going on ? thanks Pedja
I have a 2001 trooper and lately I have had the red CHECK light flashing on the TOD panel without using the 4wd. it starts flashing about a minute after the car is running again without the 4wd selected.
any ideas?
/Blair :shades:
Given that this has never happened before the transmission rebuild and then it happens immediately after I picked the car up from the rebuilder, I want to believe they must have mucked up some sensors, tubes, or wires. I am no mechanic and my knowledge of cars is limited to knowing that they somehow internally combust expensive fuel.
The transmission rebuilder has no idea what's happening and asked me to bring the car in on Tuesday 9/9/08
Comments? Suggestions? What should I tell the transmission guy? Oh, yes, am I likely to hurt the trooper by driving it while that check light is flashing?
Check the above link for into how to locate the VSV on your front axle. (Vacuum Switch Valves.) I fixed mine FREE as follows:
First, remove both VSVs from the axle. They are both mounted on a little rectangular plate, and both will come off by undoing two 10mm nuts. One VSV is BLUE, the other is GREY. Label and unplug all the vacuum hoses (carefully!) and then disconnect the electrical lead from each VSV. The electrical connector plug is a bit tricky to disconnect...you have to pry up a thin, springy brass colored retaining wire on each side of the connector, then GENTLY pry the connector off with a twisting motion of a straight-blade screwdriver. EASY DOES IT because that thing is fragile..if you crack the connector, you're 99 per cent hooped.
Once you have the VSVs off, use little jumper wires with alligator clips on them to connect to the electrical spades inside the plastic housing of the VSV. Hook the other end to the car battery and listen for a VERY QUIET "click" from the solenoid inside the VSV. This solenoid controls the vacuum flow to the vacuum actuator, which moves a toothed sleeve back and forth across splines on the ends of the axles, which is what drives the front axles when you press the dash SOFT switch.
The whole purpose here is to get the VSVs clean and operating properly. You might not have to replace them at all...just shoot some NON-GREASY electrical contact cleaner into all the outlets of the VSV and operate the solenoid a whole bunch of times...get it working freely again. (NOTE: DO NOT USE WD 40 or anything greasy / oily to spray inside the solenoid!!!!!!!! Make SURE you use a solvent based cleaner that DISAPPEARS completely when it evaporates. Spray some into your hand to make sure. Use electrical contact cleaner, specifically made to clean electrical parts. TRUST ME HERE...test your product on your hand to make sure it does not leave ANY residue.)
GOOD LUCK DOODS!!!!
Is all those tied into the warning light relay?
My "Auto 4WD" does not seem to work. The 4WD low does work properly.
I checked the vacuum solenoids and they seem to be functioning properly when I test them off the vehicle.
Any ideas on where to go from here?
John
starts real nice, sounds like there is not anything wrong with the engine when its cold but when warm it makes a grateing noise comeing from with in the engine ..oil light only comes on at tick over and when warm ..im thinking oil pump or the balancer shaft is worn and this affects the oil pump when the engine is warm so im told ??? but sounds sweet again when cold ??
any thoughts ..thanks rob