Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2008 Hyundai Elantra



  • I just had someone hit me car, causing scratches and other marks on the drivers side, the local Hyundai dealership told me to go to an auto body place, where I got an estimate of around 1500$, does the warranty not cover paint and other things, as it is a 2008 Elantra that I've only had since middle of July. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. It is only cosmetic work, other then that everything is fine, an I did not find out who the person that hit my car was as it was at a grocery store at night an no one saw who did it.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    The factory warranty covers defects in paint, not damage due to a collision. That is what insurance is for.
  • I just bought a new Elantra 2008 L automatic, seems like it doesn't have a coasting mode, whenever I release the gas pedal, the cars slows down slowly and steadily,just like I press a bit of braking (kind of engine braking?). It is quite different from my old 1998 Elantra. So I have to press the gas more to keep the car moving at the same speed. Can any other owners tell me this is a problem or not?

    Thanks a lot.
  • I would call up Hyundai (the main number) and tell them this. They will write up a case and give you a case number and then tell you to have it checked out as you have a yr for adjustments. I am having a clicking noise in my drivers side door. Hubby thinks its the mechanism for the locks. It just started. I am also hearing a noise in the back on the drivers side near the back door. It started after they fuel pump was changed. I have an appt. to have this checked out in a week. Anyone else having the same clicking noise like me? And my emergency brake is not keeping the car from rolling.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    The car should slow down slowly and steadily when you take your foot off the gas, unless you are going downhill. But compared to your 1998 Elantra, the 2008 has more power and reduced friction in the engine, plus a more efficient AT, so it should not require more pedal pressure to keep it moving than your old car. A couple of things to check: 1) tire pressure (if too low, that could cause the car to slow faster than normal); 2) make sure the emergency brake is not partially engaged (although the brake light should be on in that case). Also try letting the car coast in neutral on level ground (when it's safe to do so of course) and see how it coasts. That could tell you whether the drag is in fact in the brakes or someplace else.
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    If this car has the same shifter as the US market Elantra, it's fairly easy to accidentally stick the thing into third gear instead of Drive. This would make the engine feel like it's revving harder, and would produce noticeable engine braking.

    For what it's worth, top gear in the Elantra should give you very low rpm and very low engine noise levels. Canadian Driver reported 2200 rpm at 100 km/h with the automatic.
  • Try tapping on the accelerator pedal. It just takes a slight tap, and the transmission sort of kicks into "coast". This is a common situation in a lot of the newer transmissions in vehicles today. It is not a "problem that needs fixing".
    See if it works for you..

  • Thanks, guys. More to supplement:
    1. Tire pressure is good. But it is brand new winter tire, is this causing more friction?
    2. The transmission is shift to Drive and hand brake in completely down.
    3. The rpm is low, most of the time it is below 1500. I only drove 120km, seems like MPG is not bad.
    4. It is like that especially at low speed(e.g. 40 km/h), the car seems want to stop unless I keep pressing the gas a bit hard.
    5. no other problems found. Seems like I also heard a click sound sometimes and it seems perfectly normal.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    See the previous post. You are close to lugging the engine at below 1500 rpms. Although when the car is coasting, it should be considerably below 1500 rpms.

    Winter tires could definitely cause more friction than the OEM all-season tires.

    Why would you expect the car to NOT slow down when driving in gear at about 40 km/h? But on level ground, it should take only light pressure on the gas pedal to keep the car moving forward. If you press it hard, i.e. floor it, it should take off pretty quickly.

    If you are concerned, have the dealer check it out. While there, ask to drive a different 2008 or 2009 Elantra to see if it drives the same. Have a service tech go with you so they can observe how you drive the car. If that car drives the same as your car, it's likely that is just the way the car drives.
  • I have had a clicking problem as sounded like it was coming from the steering wheel...I've had my '08 Elantra since June and heard the clicking for the first time a coupe days ago...just had an appointment for an oil change and routine stuff but they found nothing wrong...I'm also experiencing a transmission issue...When I am driving and it comes time for the car to shift gears (it's an automatic) it feels like I'm driving a standard...I have to either step on the gas more to force it or let off the gas and then accelerate again to make the grinding noise stop...Has anyone else experienced this while driving? The service techs said there was no problem with the transmission but I know how an automatic is supposed to drive and I'm worried there's something wrong with it and they just don't know how to fix it or something...
  • I just have the clicking noise. And it has been going on now for 4 weeks every few days.

    Also, it went to 24 degrees here the other morning. And for the first time hubby was in my car and had to ask me what was the warning indicator on for. Apparently the change in temp make 4 lbs of air go out of each of my tires. We went to the gas station and put in the missing air and then when the dealership opened up I called them from my cell phone and they told me that I was not the first to call in about the problem. They said the sensors picked up the colder weather and that colder tires have less air pressure. Well, I don't know about that as I never had sensors in my tires before. They told me they reccommend nitro in the tires. They charge $40 to do this. And if at anytime during the yr they go low they fill up for free. And they also said to me that if I am low I can put regular air in to drive to them and they will empty the tire and replace all the nitro free. I am not to sure if I want to do this as the gas station is one block from my house and hubby said he will pick me up an air compressor at one of the truck stops this week to hook to my cigarette lighter so I won't have to pay $1 every time I need air.

    Just wondering how good they work.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    Air is nearly 80% nitrogen. IMO that is a lot of money to get nitrogen for the other 20%.

    Don't any service stations in your area have free air? One in my neighborhood charges 25 cents, the other is free.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,601
    Who knows on the nitro debate? I took a chance in Jan, '07 paying $36 for all 4 tires.

    Tire pressure hasn't dropped in almost 2 years. They say to do nitro every 18 months, but so far so good without renewing nitro.
  • "Tire pressure hasn't dropped in almost 2 years. They say to do nitro every 18 months, but so far so good without renewing nitro. "

    My husband put nitro in his 4 tires almost 2 yrs ago too on his Nissan Pathfinder. He too has gone all this time with no leakage or anything. And where he had it done he got a lifetime of the tires warranty for replacement nitro. But then the tire shop had a fire, burned down and they told me when I called them as they are cheaper (free if you buy the tires from them) on the cost of nitro. But they said the machine was too expensive to replace.

    And I have called all around and where I bought my Elantra is the cheapest for nitro.

    Back to you Backy..... I am really curious now about your statement of 80% nitro already in the air. Because a lot of the shops near me won't touch your tires if they see nitro valve caps on them. They say you can't put air in them if low, but the dealer told me you could. And no one by us gives free air. I can't remember the last time I saw it free.

    I am clueless here. And going for an oil change in the first week of Dec and have to decide if I am going to pay the money for the nitro. Everybody tells me the nitro stays better balanced and you get better gas mileage too. Hubby doesn't drive the Nissan too much since he got his new Elantra. It sits parked at home unless the weather is bad as he has a 2 hour drive to get his 18 wheeler in NJ every week and that is why he kept the Nissan Pathfinder as it holds the road good in bad weather.

    I had my Elantra in snow the first time Monday and considering there were 2 of us in the car I thought it did pretty good holding the road especially where we had a curvy mountain part of the road to drive, but I wasn't the one driving he was. So I only know the traction I felt as a passenger and not to sure I want to find out how good it is in snow with me driving.

    I used to put snow tires on my pickup that I no longer have and still debating if I should buy snows for the Elantra. And it would be studded snows because of where I live.

    Anyone drive their 08's in really bad weather yet? And if so did the car seem to be ok with the road? I don't really want to lay out the money right now for 4 new studded snow tires. And was even thinking about not even driving anywhere if we got serious snow. I don't work so I don't need to go out except grocery shopping. So it really wouldn't pay for me to put snows on if the Elantra is good in the snow. As I hardly ever go anyplace.
  • I experience a clicking sound soon after I purchased my Elantra in July/August. After getting the bum's rush from my purchasing dealer, I took it to another dealer and it turned out to be the throttle cable that had popped out of the clip. They put it back in and it has been quiet as a mouse ever since. The sound seemed to come from the steering column.

    I also experienced the low tire pressure light the other when the temp dropped - I just had them check my pressure when they did the oil change and all seems to be well.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    Then I would say the nitro is worth it. I will have to look into it. If I would not have to worry about the pressure in my car's tires dropping for years at a time when temps fall from near 100 in the summer to -20 in the winter, that would be quite a benefit. With ordinary air, the tire pressure drops about 1 psi per 10 degrees drop in temperature.
  • I have Hyundai Elantra PZEV 08 automatic with about 4,000 ml. I drive mostly in the city with a lots of traffic signs and my average mileage is about 17 ml/gallon. My daily round trip is 12 miles. Car was serviced at 3,500 and there is nothing wrong with the car. Also fuel pump was replaced due to recall. I keep my tire pressure as recommended 3.2-3.3 and I use super most of the time. I believe my air filter is still clean, as I bought the car 6 month ago. I see many people get close to 28 mpg driving in pure city conditions. Do you guys have any suggestions how to explain such a poor city mileage?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    "Pure city" can mean many different things. Consider that your one-way trips are 6 miles. That is barely enough to warm up the car. Also, if all of your commute is stop-and-go, with a lot of idling e.g. for stoplights, that will kill fuel economy.

    I do a lot of 12-mile round trips in the city also in my Elantra ('04 AT), and I get mid-20s in those conditions. But my trips are one of the two scenarios:

    1) Go about 1 mile and hop on freeway (usually not very congested, can go 60-65 usually). Hop off about 1/2 mile from my destination. Return trip is about the same.

    2) Drive on suburban streets for 6 miles. Many stoplights along the way, but I try to anticipate them as much as is practical and with luck can cruise through most of them. Speed limit on those streets is 35 mph, which is a sweet spot for my car as I can get into 4th gear at very low revs (1400-1500) w/o lugging the engine.

    I'll bet my scenarios aren't anything like yours. Also I've noticed that now that my 17-year-old son drives the car to school (see #2 above) and the weather is colder (often 20 or less in the morning), he is averaging only a little over 20 mpg. I have 35 years of driving experience over him, so I think a lot depends on the skill of the driver in using a light foot and keeping the car moving while using as little gas as possible.

    Note also that when Consumer Reports tested the 2008 Elantra with AT, they got 18 mpg in city driving (and 36 on the highway, with 27 combined). Their city driving course is pretty tough I think, i.e. their test site is near NYC. So your 17 mpg is not far off the mark compared to that.

    P.S. The 2008 Elantra should be at least 10% better in fuel economy than the 2004 Elantra, everything else being equal.
  • Thank you for the link it was very helpful. I was unable to find a place to add my complaint to the file there. Do you know how I can do that. I was involved in a crash that could have been fatal and would like to add what happened to me.
  • Thank you.
    My highway mpg is also in high 30, at one point I even reached 42 mpg with one passenger and A/C. I drive in NYC and probably that explains such a low city mpg.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    I agree. If you can get low 40s on the highway, I don't think there's anything wrong with the car.

    Here you go. Here's the link. Within 3 days you will be contacted by email too for further information. My husband's Elantra shut down and caused a 3 car crash involving 2 cars and a 18 wheeler. The person who contacts you called us and even sent for the police report where it took place. He is a very nice person and I have had the pleasure of talking to him on the phone. He is very, very helpful if he needs to talk to you. :shades:
  • I have 3,456 miles on my car since June 4, 2008. 3 round trips to NJ (75 miles each way) and the rest all city driving. I notice depending on where I get the gas is how good my mileage is. With 2 people at all times I don't get less than 24 miles per gallon around town. I notice my car does not like Sunoco Gas or Citgo. And depending on which Mobil I can get bad mileage. I usually put in Gulf which has 10% ethanol in it. They are the only ones I have found to actually have signs on the pumps that there is 10% etanol in the gas. Since I live 2 miles from NJ I go over the state line to buy gas and today since Premium was only $1.79 I splurged and put in the Premium. I said...what the heck. After paying almost $4 a gallon I decided to treat my engine. And I read that the actual mileage testing done by Hyundai was on high test. I will know my next fill up the difference between regular and premium. But I NEVER get below 24 miles per gal. around the town. And I get even better on the highway with 2 people in the car. I know my tank holds 14 gallons and my gas light comes on when I have 2 gallons left. :shades:
  • I am thinking about buying a 2008 Elantra SE but when I read posts like this, it really makes me cringe. Is your husband ok?? Did this happen recently? Did you have the fuel pump changed before the accident?
    I told one dealer that I wouldn't buy the car unless he could prove to me that the fuel pump had been replaced. He acted like it was no big deal and that it "probably" was when the recall was enacted. I don't know if I should believe him or not.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    It would be an easy thing for the dealer to confirm that the car got a fuel pump replacement, there would be a record of it in their service database. I believe that a new car with a safety recall cannot be delivered until the recall has been taken care of.
  • dovid2dovid2 Posts: 90
    According to a quote I saw that was supposed to be from the FTC, most cases, using a higher octane gasoline than your owner’s manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won’t make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner. Your best bet: listen to your owner’s manual.

    As a rule, high octane gasoline does not outperform regular octane in preventing engine deposits from forming, in removing them, or in cleaning your car’s engine.

    I used to use premium some in the old days, but they say the new computers compensate and cancel the benefits.
  • This happened right after he bought the car and it was before the fuel pump recall. He was not hurt, but then the recalls went out for the fuel pumps pretty quick. I think by now all the dealers have replaced the fuel pump. The only fuel pump was replaced and recorded it was replaced. My husbands was replaced July. And he got a recall notice in Sept. 2 weeks after my recall notice came and we looked at Carfax and it said mine was done and his was not. So we called Hyundai Headquarters and they said the dealer probably didn't report it to Carfax they replaced his fuel pump. My Carfax report states recall and the day it was done. Get the vin# of the car you want and call Hyundai Headquarters to see if it was replaced. It was only certain months too that had the wrong fuel pump in them.
  • most cases, using a higher octane gasoline than your owner’s manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won’t make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner. Your best bet: listen to your owner’s manual.

    My manual said the mileage testing was done with the higher octane. And I put in high this one time to see if I got better mileage just to see what they were saying. I always use regular gas. I wanted to test my car out to see if there was a better mileage change...thats all. My owners manual states regular is what you can use but it does not say you can't use premium. But it also states you can't put more than 15% ethanol that is in the gas in the car
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,601
    One tank of gas, unless under closely controlled conditions (speed, temperature, route driven, rate of acceleration, etc.) is not a large enough sample to tell you if you get better mileage from premium gas.

    I buy almost all my gas at the same station and usually go about 2 weeks or more on a tank. It is quite common to see .4 mpg +/- from one tank to another.

    My driving routine doesn't change much from week to week. But, if I drive an extra 20 highway miles compared to local miles, my milage usually increases. However, if I go to a drive-up window and have to wait 5 minutes, that decreases the mileage (0 mph = 0 mpg). Also, your fill up could be off by 1/4 or 1/2 a gallon. If you've only driven 300--400 miles between fill ups, that small gallonage will affect your calculated mpg.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    My manual said the mileage testing was done with the higher octane.

    Would you mind telling us exactly what the car's manual says about using higher octane for testing fuel economy? I find it very odd that Hyundai would do the EPA fuel economy tests for the Elantra using a higher octane of gas than is recommended for the car.
Sign In or Register to comment.