Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions



  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Seized pilot bushing? Well, I have to say that it could be possible, but in my opinion doubtful.

    A loss of clutch cylinder pressure is a more likely problem.

    Good luck,
  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    That's why I've never been a fan of hydraulic clutches. Had many issues with that in a 62 IH pickup.
    By contrast, dad's 78 D200 with a direct connect clutch never had an issue until one fine day, a gear self destructed in the NP 435, effectively trashing the whole drivetrain. From the Dana 60 in back, through three u-joints, a carrier bearing and yes, the clutch, the whole thing was junk. But that's another story :)
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I've seen seized pilot bushings and in each case they heat adhered to the input shaft and spun inside the bushing bore of the crankshaft. Could they lock-up together? I suppose so. But with a hydraulic clutch system I'd suspect loss of pressure first.

    Hydraulic clutch systems offer some advantages. Reduced pedal effort, smooth operation, and eliminating the need for periodic adjustment. The downside is increased system complexity and a corresponding increased likelihood of a failed component. Hydraulic systems in general have a component life issue because of the nature of most fluids and seal components used.

    They're better than they used to be from the days of European cars or that '62 IH pickup and the IH Scout series. Most Dak owners with manual that I know have not had a problem, except with the transmission itself.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have a friend that has been a mechanic for over 20 years (He actually WORKS at the Dodge dealership) and before purchasing my Dak, I consulted him. His very first comment was that the "slave cylinder" tends to go bad in cold weather. (-15F and lower)

    Since I was forwarned about this problem, I always "work" the clutch gently a few times before driving in very cold weather.

    I have encounterd only ONE time when it was about -20F. The clutch would not fully enguage. (With foot OFF of clutch in first gear, my dak would barely creep forward with the engine revving)

    Of course none of this has any relavance to the original posters problem ;-)
  • cm1cm1 Posts: 1
    Read your article, and am wondering if anyone has had a similar problem with a 2003 Dakota Quad cab 4.7L. My mpg has gone down to 11.2 from 15mpg. I only do city driving and about 400 miles per month. The dealer says the problem is because I do not do enough driving to keep the system clean. I have an appt this week to check the problem at the dealers. Does anyone have any similar stories or solutions?
  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Hi guys;
    I have a 01 QC 4.7L auto,4x4. It has 47k miles on it. Recently, after a long trip of 70mph driving it has developed a rough idle and a skip at approx. 1500 rpm. It threw a trouble code of P0306 (cyl #6 misfire). Having not changed the plugs at 30k, I changed the plugs with the same ones and the idle/skip is still there. I know the plugs are ok, could this be a clogged injector? (my next step). In the past every few (4K) thousand miles I'd throw a bottle of gumout in the tank. If it could be a clogged injector, is there a product of high quality or method to clean the injectors myself. Apart from the usual low price point stuff at walmart, is it worth getting an expensive cleaner off the shelf and use it a special way?
    I once new a guy with a VW jetta and the dealer sold him 1.5 gallons of a system to clean his injectors (about $35.)He had to follow certain instructions to use.
    Anyways, any ideas before Mr. dealer has his way with my wallet.
    ps- no major problems, had my baljoints done under warranty, been doing most maintainence myself. DC seems to cover themselves in the manual as far as the frequency of other components. (trany,transfer, diffs,changes etc.)
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Could be an injector, especially since I've not heard of one coil failure or problem. However, you could remove and inspect the #6 coil and check for bad connections. Then as a troubleshooting technique, swap #6 coil with another and see if the fault code changes.

    Keep us posted.

    Good luck,
  • Tom, I also have a 01,4.7l,auto,4x4,50k.You mentioned that you do most of your maintenance yourself; which antifreeze did you use when you changed your antifreeze, 100kHoat or 36kGlycol? I have been holding off on changing mine because no one can identify which antifreeze in in my radiator.Thanks, Wayne
  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Hi Wayne, most of my vehicles have been foreign lately, prior were american and always seemed to go thru many radiators (why, idon't know) anyways I'm not a fan of changing antifreeze a whole lot. Sometimes just seems changing a radiator is easier at 7-8 years+/-, versus every 2 years coolant changes they want you to. But, I was probably going to change mine this summer-warmer weather, and use the dealer stuff. (probably at 50K+/-) Please don't go by my discombobled theory, do what you think is best.
    From what I understand, (this site) we have the Hoat, I don't beleive its a 100k, I just remeber not to mix with regular. Now I notice Prestone ads that claim all their new stuff is compatible.??? But I'll probably feel better with expensive!! dealer supplied formula.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Actually, according to the 2003 Dodge Dakota service manual, the factory fill (MS-9769) HOAT coolant is good for five years or 100,000 miles.

    The same service manual also states that non-HOAT coolant is green in color, but I saw the MS-9769 at the dealers and it was green as well. According to my overfill cap I have the HOAT and it, too, is green.

    The manual also states that HOAT should not be mixed with a non-HOAT coolant, and that MS-9769 should not be mixed with ANY OTHER coolant, HOAT or non-HOAT.

    I know that some coolant manufacturers state that their fluid is universally compatible, but I wouldn't take the chance. I suspect that it isn't.

    Best regards,
  • ron35ron35 Posts: 134
    gtownguy - I have had very good results using a product called BG44K to clean my injectors. It is sold at selected gas stations, it is not cheap (about $20) but it works. I used it recently and picked up about 10 miles on a tankful of gas.

  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Hi Dusty, and others, thanks for the reply. I am leaning to a clogged injector. Reasons are that my plugs were severely worn when I took them out, and I think under high stress (speed + towing) along with no name/low grade gas, caused an accumulation of carbon/[non-permissible content removed] in the intake valves/injectors. I noticed on one side of the #6 plug electrode tower/shaft oil had coked. I have been running fuel inj cleaner, but unfortunately have had a full tank of gas. I will add techron and a couple others when the tank is low and run it so its a high concentration mix. I just learned about top tier fuel as well, so in my area I'll probably try my next gas at a shell station. I'll also look for that bg44 stuff. I do see some ads for a product called seafoam. I may try that in a week or so. Hopefully then I 'll have good news to report.
  • rm_trekrm_trek Posts: 1
    I have a '98 Dakota. Sometime this winter ice froze onto my driver side window. When I went to move my window down, I heard the motor working, but the window stayed put. After I chipped away the ice I was able to move the window with my hands and eventually, I was able to get the window back on it's track to move it up and down by the button inside my truck. However, another night it froze again and when I tried to move it, it got off track. Now I haven't been able to get it back on track. I even took the side door apart, at least the plastic part, to try and see what the problem is. I can't really see anything b/c behind the plastic cover is a metal frame that looks welded to the side door. Does anyone know what to repair the window? I think my problem is easy to fix if I just knew how to reach the window.
  • canuck34canuck34 Posts: 1
    Hi all...
    My 2001 Dodge Dakota Is stuck in 4wd. There is no indicator light on either. However I do have a service 4wd light on now????
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Your '98 should be similar to '03s. The window glass can be loosened from the run channels by lowering the regulator and glass all the way downward until the regulator arm is aligned with the access holes in the door frame. The run channels can then be loosened. I suspect that the glass has slipped out of one of the run channels, or the upper and lower run channels have separated. The upper and lower channels are held together with a leaf spring clip that's riveted to the outside lower run channel. If they've slipped out they can easily be slipped back together.

    Hope this helps.

    Best regards,
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Illumination of the "Service 4WD" indicator lamp indicates that the Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM) has detected a fault in the transfer case operation or electrical circuitry.

    My suggestion is to see if you've recorded a diagnostic trouble code (DTC). If not, check electrical connections between the transfer case harness (shift motor) and the TCCM.

    Good luck,
  • sniffssniffs Posts: 3
    98 Dakota 5.2 Magnum, 123000 miles. fules pump quit on the road and the truck had to be towed home. there's no power getting to the pump. a test with a brand new fuel pump yeilded no results. fuses and relays checked out allright. is there a fuseable link in the harness to the pump, or a reset switch hidden somewhere. we're getting frustrated
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Yes. The fuel pump receives it's operating current from the Fuel Pump Relay. The relay is located in the power distribution center (PDC) that is under the hood. Lift the cover from the top of the PDC. The fuel pump relay is just below the 28-pin connector near the edge of the PDC. There should be a diagram printed on the cover to help you locate the relay.

  • dannerdanner Posts: 2
    I was wondering if there was a way to lift my dak 4 by between 2 and 3 inches safely without buying a 1500 dollar lift kit??
  • sniffssniffs Posts: 3
    huh? i said the [i]relays[/i] are fine. they've allready been swapped around (can't do much without a singe electical testing device, BUT swap test)
  • I own a 2001 Dakota xcab with the factory Infinity Sound system. The tweeters in the doors do not work and the 2-ways in the rear panels are not working right ( with the volume all the way up, they can barely be heard. I'm not up to date on all of the newest stereo components, last time I was, a amplifier was called a Power Booster! Anyhow,
    I purchased Alpine component speakers for the front and Alpine 2-ways for the rear. After inspecting the original stereo components, wiring, etc... I cannot find where the crossovers are. I assume that I need to replace them as the Alpine component set came with them. Any Ideas? Also, any Ideas on locating a wiring diagram for the system?

    Any input would be great!
  • 3250man3250man Posts: 4
    For Dusty and bpeebles,
    I was the guy who had the transmission problem a couple of weeks ago (wouldn't go into gear). Anyway, after the Dodge dealer's service guys didn't find anything and I've driven the truck a week, the SAME thing happened again - I couldn't shift into any gear. This time, armed with your (Dusty's) info and some Internet snooping, I held the shifter (clutch depressed) in the REVERSE position and turned off the ignition key. The shifter handle fell right into the reverse position and when I started the truck back up, it's been shifting just fine ever since. I called the service manager, told him what I encountered, and I hear him brief the shop foremen about it. They seem perplexed by the whole idea that it might be a bad clutch slave cylinder. Are these guys "thick" and just not getting it? I'm fairly mechanically-inclined and my question is: Could I purchase a slave cylinder and do the work my self or should I buy the part and take it somewhere else? These guys evidently have not clue.
    Feedback greatly appreciated,
  • datagurudataguru Posts: 95
    Hi Bruce, Dusty...

    After a series of numerous MIL illuminations (with P0121, P0441, P0440) and numerous visits to the dealer that revealed no hard DTC errors, the dealer has discovered a failed pump unit (HVCC?or HVOV? or something sounding like that) not clearing the various DTC codes properly. After the last visit, the MIL light has come on again with a P0440 and the gas cap is on tight. :( A new pump is now on backorder. :sick:

    Anyone encountered this situation? Is this pump a component of the EEC? How does it work? :confuse:
    dataguru :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Although your description is not clear, I beleive you are refering to the pump that is mounted on the firewall just above the engine. (sorta beween the brake diaphram and the center of the vehicle.) It is mounted in a rubber 'grommet' to reduce vibration.

    This is a simple air pump that can often be heard when you first turn the key to "run" before starting the engine. It makes a "vibrating" sound. This air-pump simply attempts to build a slight pressure in the air above the fuel in the gastank.
    Then, it seals the system to make sure that the pressure can be maintained.

    If it cannot build up any pressure (gas cap loose, broken hose...etc) that will flag a code.

    Obviously, if the pump is not even working, the computer could flag all kind sof false fails. (the compuer ASSUMES that the pump is working)

    My factory service manual has an entire section on how this pump is used and what "tests" are performed to check for leaks in the system.
  • casper4casper4 Posts: 1
    ya i have a 98 dakota slt club cab and im gettin what i think is either panel buzz or my speakers are blown (all stock speakers) took one of the doors off to check it out and theres a plastic what seems like a weather sealant and its comin loose and seems to be a possible reason for the buzz is it a crital peace on my door or should i remove it?? stuck on it. also havein mad problems gettin the back panels off next to the benches is there a trick or somthin ? thanks
  • datagurudataguru Posts: 95
    Yes, I believe that's the same pump the dealership technician said is not working properly. The backordered $300 unit has arrived and will be installed (under warranty) later this week.

    I guess that explains why all the erroneous codes keeps getting re-flagged after resetting. Although the MIL light keeps coming back ON, their diagnostics did not find any hard DTC codes set using their shop scan tool. Apparently, the last DTC code previously flagged is not being erased in this situation, thus re-activating the MIL light after the system reaches it pre-determined number of drive cycles.

    Thanks for your explanations. Most helpful! :)
  • rswebberrswebber Posts: 4
    I recently had an MIL illumination with the code PO456 (Emissions leak) indicated and would like some troubleshooting information. When I first bought the truck, I had a similar MIL and corrected it by tighting the gas cap, which was not closed properly. I have checked that already. Has anyone run across such a problem? Is it a sensor?. Thanks. rswebber
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I once had simular errors, a hose had popped off the charcoal canister. (located underneath and slightly behind the drivers door behind the framerail)

    After that hose had popped off 2 times, I put a hose clamp on it... problem solved forever.
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    I had the P0456 code on my V-8 2002 QC a couple of times a year after I first got the truck. The dealer could never find anything wrong. There is a PCM flash available that fixes the problem. I haven't had the problem since I had the PCM flashed.
This discussion has been closed.