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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • theemiketheemike Posts: 3
    I am new to this (bought an 05 Laramie this weekend) and may have missed this.

    The book says that you can change whether the power outlet is on 24x7 or only when the truck is on. (I think it said you can do it to both plugs in one thing I read)... But I cannot find anything that tells me how to do it.

    How is this done? (I need to change my dahs outlet to "always on"

    Thanks,

    Mike
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I'm not sure when they changed the heater controls on Dakota, but my '03 has a twelve-position mode control switch that operates the blend door. The AC compressor is engaged in only four of those positions. These are the four in which some amount of air is directed to the defroster ducts. The AC select button is a separate control.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Hmmm, interesting. My '03 Dakota service manual states that power is available to the power outlets at "all times." Except, I know that this is not the case on my truck. There is only power there when the ignition is on. I've looked at the wiring diagrams (for my '03) and I'm suddenly suspicious that full-time power may be accomplished by moving a jumper in the Power Distribution Center.

    Needed something to do tonight!

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • theemiketheemike Posts: 3
    Let me know what you find. I will take a look as well.

    Thanks,
    Mike
  • tabarellitabarelli Posts: 1
    :sick: I have a problem in my Dakota 1999 V6 3.9.
    The alert light of the rear ABS is on and the speedometer only begins to work starting from 60 MPH.
    I believe that the problem is in the speed sensor.
    Am I correct?
    Which the difficulty of changing that sensor ?
  • enorm05enorm05 Posts: 1
    I bought a 05 dakota slt quad cab and am finding the rear head restraints difficult to see around. The dealer says that they cannot be removed, but there must be a way. Does anyone know how to do this?
  • mcg53mcg53 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 QC - after driving for about half hour the RPMs start jumping up 300 to 500 rpm - engine revs sounds like its in neutral. Happens about every 60 secs. It occurs in drive, overdrive and cruise. Anyone have a clue? The dealer sure doesnt.
  • theemiketheemike Posts: 3
    Thanks Dusty!
    I looked in the distirbution box (I guess that is what we used to call the "Fuse box") and sure enough it was there. Kind of like moving a jumper, but the fuse itself was the jumper. Position 22 is the power outlet fuse. If it is to the engine side it is on with the key, if it is on the fender side it is always on.

    Hope this helps others.

    Mike

    From Dusty:
    "Hmmm, interesting. My '03 Dakota service manual states that power is available to the power outlets at "all times." Except, I know that this is not the case on my truck. There is only power there when the ignition is on. I've looked at the wiring diagrams (for my '03) and I'm suddenly suspicious that full-time power may be accomplished by moving a jumper in the Power Distribution Center.

    Needed something to do tonight!

    Best regards,
    Dusty"
  • Hi all , I currently own a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9 5 speed. Since the purchase of this vechicle from a local Dodge dealer, Ive been complaining to them about the VERY loud noise when shifting from any gear. If I didnt know better it sounds like a U joint. Ive had the truck in the dealers shop the day after I purchased this truck and they had it for 2 1/2 weeks. I was told by them that this noise is normal and common to all Dakota trucks. I find that extremely difficult to believe seeing as I drove a few other than the one I purchased from them. Here the best way I can describe the noise and or problem. From a still position Ill let the clutch out and begin to drive, as Im shifting from 1st to 2nd or for that matter to any gear as I release the clutch I get a very loud and distinct metal ping. It does not matter from what gear or what speed the noise is always there when I shift. As I stated earlier, if I didnt know better Id swear it was a u joint. Now as IM shifting, if I ease the clutch out VERY slowly to the point of almost riding the clutch the noise isnt there. But normal shifting the noise remains.The noise seems to be coming from the tranny and near the gear shifter boot or so it sounds that way. I have inspected the driveline and U joints and there are in good operating condition. To ensure the condition of the driveline and all components of it, I took it to a shop that I trust and have known the owner for years. Upon his inspection, he too agreed there was nothing wrong in the driveline . He too said the noise WAS NOT normal when he test drove the truck. He looked at all Dodge service bulletins, and found no posts or remarks regarding this problem. There is most definately something wrong here but I cant get the dealer to attempt to remedy this problem.As a final thought, the dealer had a 3000 or 30 day warranty (whichever came first) on the truck and that any problems would be fixed at NO CHARGE to the buyer. So I wonder of they infact found something and thought perhaps the problem wouldnt get worse until their warranty expired and my service warranty kicked in. Anybody that has any idea as to what the problem is, please feel free to offer your opinion. IM not thrilled at the prospect of having to spend $200.00 (my deductable) to fix the problem the dealer should have addressed the day after I bought this truck.This is NOT a normal sound regardless of what the dealer says!! :mad:
  • amend1amend1 Posts: 98
    See my theory on your problem in the quad cab section.
    Bill
  • I purchased a 2001 Dakota QC with a 4.7 from my Aunt with 75,000 miles on it. I am having the same cooling problems. It tends to overheat, and blow fluids out through the over flow. The upper hose gets hot, and feels pressurized like the thermostat has seized. I drained and flushed the system. I then installed a new thermostat (The dealership gave me a 195 degree thermostat, and not a 180). I did a 50/50 mix of HOAT, and Dist. water. The problem has not gone away. All of the other parts are in working order. To bet best of my knowledge the head gaskets are fine. The only way to know for sure is to perform a leak down test I assume. I am at a loss, as it does not overheat all the time. It does blow fluids out of the over flow, and all over the front of the vehicle on a regular basis. I am curious as to what the cure was for the last fellow with this problem.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Have you checked the radiator core fins for signs of being loose? The fins are annealed to the core tubes. If the fins start to come away from the tubes there will be a loss of heat conduction from the tube to the fin and hence to the air.

    Any signs that the transmission is overheating? Although it would be my last suspect, a automatic transmission could cause engine overheating.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • cparkes1cparkes1 Posts: 15
    on a recent trip from fla. to canada i noticed a miss while in cruise. it holds asigned speed but you can see &feel rpm drop and miss almost like a rev limiter is in play. when i take out of cruise problem goes away. it takes a 1/2 hour from start up till problem surfaces. i am concerned that this could be the start of a major problem down the road and will happen even when out of cruise.could it be a throttle position sensor that is on its way out? any help would be greatly appreciated. cookie :confuse: image
  • amend1amend1 Posts: 98
    memyselfandi,
    I had the same problem. It seems the system is very sensitive to any loss of coolant. Check your radiator cap (when cold, of course!) I found that on mine, the rubber seal on the underside which contacts the inner flange of the radiator was distorted and allowing coolant to pass, thus not holding the proper pressure. It wasn't a dramatic distortion, just enough to allow a leak.
    Bill
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The speed-sensor for my 2000 Dak is just screwed into the rear differential housing. It has a electrical plug on it. If that is your problem , it would not be very difficult at all to change.
  • amend1amend1 Posts: 98
    See my message in the quad cab section about this problem. It's the cruise control system.
    Bill
  • Thanks for the quick reply's guys!! The radiator fins look to be in great condition except for a few bug splats. I didn't think to check the cap though. I was wondering if there is a possibility that it might be air locking. Is there a chance that there might be some air still in the system, and if so what is the best way to get it out? I once had an Acura car than would do this. Once the air was evacuated from the system things were fine. I am on my way to check the cap as we speak. I checked the cap, and it does look to be slightly distorted (I have seen much worse work) so I will replace it. The thing is, that I do not think is it blowing by the cap, and it doesn't overheat all the time.
  • cparkes1cparkes1 Posts: 15
    forgot to post truck make &mileage, is as follows 2000 dakota club cab, 105,000kms 3.9 v6. sorry about that, again is there a possability that it is the speed sensor or throttle positioner sensor. i hate to have to go to dealer for diag. test.
    regards &later cookie :confuse:
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    I would suspect that the torque converter is unlocking and then locking back up after a short period. When the torque converter unlocks, your RPMs will increase about 500 RPMs, depending on the load the engine is under. If the transmission were to shift into neutral, the RPMs would increase significantly.
  • I pulled the new thermostat today. I drained all the new antifreeze, and flushed the block with dist water, then I flushed it again. I once again purchased all new antifreeze from the dealer, and a new radiator cap. All was installed along with new NGK plugs. I took it for a drive later today. The outside temp was 78. The gauge read just below half. It ran fin all day in town, even with the A/C on, though the gauge did move some. On my way home, up what we call Milton hill, the gauge climbed up to a little over half.
    Before this all started happening the gauge never moved. I haven't driven it up the mountain to see if gets hotter or not. I'm starting to think the radiator needs power flushed, or replaced. :confuse:
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    My dash engine mal light came on Saturday. 55K miles on my '01, 4.7 auto
    QC, Dakota. Since I was putting off some needed main. I changed plugs, airfilter,
    and cleaned throttle body today. I taking it to the dealer Monday, so what should I expect? O2 sensor? I have extended warr.
  • dberriendberrien Posts: 1
    I had exactly the same trouble on my '98 Dakota. It is the sensor. I had very little trouble changing the sensor, except for one thing. The sensor design was changed sometime after mine was manufactured... Take a look at the direction that the connector outlet faces. If the connector faces the drivers' side (Cable comes straight off the sensor and runs around the back of the gas tank and forward along the drivers' side) then you have the older design. If it comes off the sensor toward the center of the vehicle, and makes a 180 degree turn and goes back toward the drivers' side, then you have the newer design. The dealer will sell you the new style sensor, but in order for the older cable to mate up with it, you will need a mod kit that consists of a different metal shield, and a 6 inch long jumper / extension harness. Without the jumper harness, your cable will not reach the new connector location. Don't ask me how I found out... They gave me the cable, etc. for no charge, so I think you just have to let them know you need it. As always when dealing with a dealer's parts department, YMMV...
    The sensor is mounted on the differential housing, and access is pretty easy. You have to remove a nut that holds the brake line clamp, and lift off the brake lines. Next, you remove the stud that they were bolted onto. This will free up the metal shield and the sensor. Remove the metal shield, (lift the front edge over the plastic tab on the sensor body) and you can rotate the sensor body to free it up. It is just slip fitted into the housing, and sealed with an o-ring, but mine had some built-up crud and corrosion above the o-ring, so it took a little "convincing" to get it out of the hole. Carefully! wipe the built-up crud out of the hole, and pop the new sensor into the hole. I used some motor oil to lube the o-ring. (I don't know if this is recommended or necessary, but my new sensor was "reluctant" to go into the gunked up hole, and I don't have the facilities to pull the rear axle housing, remove the gears, etc. and clean the hole properly...)
  • wpaulsonwpaulson Posts: 1
    My truck is a 2wd club cab manual with 102000 miles. I've been hearing a sound like a bicycle chain rattle when I accelerate hard or go up a hill. the sound only occurs when I'm in gear and moving- not while sitting still or coasting. I was thinking it might be my throw out bearing or a bad ball bearing on the drive shaft but i don't know. I spoke with a dodge service tech and, from my description, thought it might be a "gasket on the intake pan?" (something like that). just wondering if anyone else had experienced a similar problem
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your description is pretty vague. I wonder if you are describing the sound of pinging or pre-gnition?

    If so, try some higher-octane fuel. That will most liekly cure pre-ignition.

    The reference to "gasket on the intake pan" may be suggesting that air leaking into the intake plenum will cause the engine to run lean. This will also cause pinging.

    One way to check the engine is to do some sparkplug readings. Often that will give you an indicator if the engine has been running lean.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    Oxygen sensor bad, fixed.
  • snturnersnturner Posts: 2
    I bought a 2005 Dakota 4.7 engine, auto trans, about 2 months ago. At about a 1000 miles the engine light came on and the truck would not move unless I gave it a lot of gas. Took it back to the dealer who said it was just a fluke thing. They reset the light and told me it produced a boogus code. Two weeks later it is happening again. Now the truck just dies. Like the key has been turned off. It starts right back up but then takes a lot of gas to get it moving again. So the truck went back to the dealer again today. My wife took it in and told them to find out what is causing the "fluke". Anyone else have this issue?.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    Sound like they need to replace the computer? Keep good records, might be
    a lemon!
  • We have a 1991 Dakota that keeps running down the battery. We took the alternator off and had it tested, it shows good.

    When we try to start it, there is a clicking noise in the solenoid (which I thought was the starter clicking), but the starter will not turn over the engine.

    We were able to jump it and get it running for about five minutes, but then it died and would not jump again. We are completely baffled as we are not engine repair people, but need to do as much on our own as possible.

    Any input would be great...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    1) remove and fully charge the battery
    2) Take battery to auto-parts place to be tested (replace if needed)
    3) start engine and check charging voltage with all electrics on

    After all above is good, then start checking for what is draining the battery while parked.
  • Thanks for the input, bpeebles.

    We replaced the battery last night and installed it. The voltage meter shows it's charging around 16 volts. The alternator was deemed working off the truck, but we are going to take it in tonight to see if it registers working attatched to the truck. For some reason the people we are working with feel the computer is not telling the alternator to run (in place of a traditional voltage regulator) and so the battery is being used up within a few days.

    We were told last night about the computer wires possibly making a problem for this vehicle. Any experience with that?

    Thanks again...
This discussion has been closed.