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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions



  • My air conditioning stopped working about 9 monthes ago. It would work initially (when cool ambient temp) but would stop when I actually needed. I took it into a garage on base to get checked out/recharged. The helper mechanic took a quick look and told me that the electric fan fuse was burned out. Replaced the fuse and it worked... for about 2 days... basically I can keep replacing the fuse I there isnt a problem, but I dont consider that fixing the problem.

    of truck also overheats the same time the fuse blows. I dont have a problem as long as I keep moving, but unfortunately chicago traffic isnt agreeing with my trucks need to keep moving.

    I'm thinking I need to replace the whole fan, but new they cost about 450 bucks! I'm a poor college student, any suggestions or cheap things I could try first? :(
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The loud squeak when operating the clutch could be the throw-out bearing or the pivot arm in the clutch housing.

    If the timing is set correctly, there is a short list of usual suspects. The rattling noise is likely combustion detonation (pinging) and it can be caused by worn distributor shaft bushings, bad spark plugs or wires, or a leaking intake manifold.

  • moaboveparmoabovepar Posts: 11
    Hello again all,

    I have an '02 QC 4.7L Automatic with around 75,000 miles. Lately every now and then when I take off from a stop, the rpms will climb to around 2-3000 rpms. This seems to happens more when it is really hot outside. Sometimes though, it runs fine. It's like when I accelerate, the rpms will rise like it's in neutral, then slowly decrease as I pick up speed. Am I correct saying that there maybe a problem with the tranny? Luckily, I do have an extended warranty. Please help, any input would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank You.
    Jody :confuse:
  • works great thanks dustyk
  • pentastarpentastar Posts: 4
    Thank you for taking the time to respond.I finally got in touch with Tenafly after 6 phone calls and they are sending the right part I hope after I returned the one they sent in error.
    The Dodge dealer that I have been a customer of for 35+ years told me it would be $79.00 to connect their diagnostic equipment up to the truck while I was at their service bay doing an oil change,how is that for customer service?
    It was not even my truck,it was my son in laws truck.They do mine too and others I bring to them and they wouldn't even give me a break!!!
    I am 99% sure that my problems will be solved if I ever get the right part in there but I sure hate having to go under the truck twice to make it happen.
    As I said before,I went to great trouble to spell out just what I needed in the comment box of the order form so they should have sent the right part to begin with.After several minutes on the phone with their parts guy looking up my part he asked me if it was the cam position sensor............OH BOY..............I can see why they sent the wrong part.:)) Ron G
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    It does sound like a transmission. Do you know which transmission you have?

    Check the transmission fluid on a level surface, with the engine hot and idling. Low transmission fluid could give you this problem.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I'm assuming you have a automatic transmission.

    You might have a sticky 1-2 shift solenoid valve. This probably means the valve body is gummy. How many miles on the vehicvle? Have you performed routine transmission maintenance? Have you ever put Dexron-Mercon ATF in this truck?

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Running out of free time I had my dealer replace the front pads and rotors on my 2003 Club Cab at 45,000 miles. This is the first time in twenty years someone else has done a brake job for me.

    Anyway, I mentioned to them that I was getting some "clunking" noise from the front end, always when making a left turn and going over a bump or dip of some type. I told the service writer that I thought it might be the right upper ball joint.

    A few hours later I got a call that my truck was ready. When I got there I was told that the right upper ball joint was definitely bad, but they changed both since they are under extended factory warranty. I was pleased to learn that they also did a complete front-end alignment, also under warranty. The Dakota drives solid and straight, just like new.

    Anyway, here's a pitch for a job well done by a dealer:

    Marina Dodge, Webster, New York.

  • moaboveparmoabovepar Posts: 11
    I believe I have the 45RFE tranny. I will check fluid level tomorrow. I've owned it for only almost 5 months now and this just started happening only recently.


  • moaboveparmoabovepar Posts: 11
    Just checked fluid, it looks fine, coating on both sides of the dipstick up to "Hot". Maybe it has something to do with the torque converter. I'll have to take it to the dealer and have them check it out. Luckily my warranty will cover it.
    Thanks for your help'

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    A bad Throttle Position Sensor will produce the same symptoms.

  • wheelssswheelsss Posts: 1
    If I stand on the accelerator in park the rev limiter cuts the engine in 1000rpm increments starting at 2500rpm drops to a 1000rpm then goes to 3500rpm drops to 2500rpm then 4500rpm drops to 3500 so on and so forth. Never held it long enough to really know what "red line" is. This seems kind of unusual to me. Anybody else notice this . Also this is a Sport Plus straight model and it runs ok but it won't hardly turn the tires over. Whats up? wheelsss
  • skiptskipt Posts: 1
    I have a1995 dakota that wont idle when it warms up gos up and down and gets rough and dies runs great down the road and when cold idles good i have changed o2 sensor iac valve temp sensor egr valve and transducer coil plugs wires cap and rotor button can anyone pleeeeezzzz ! help me. its a 3.9 magnum with 46000 actual miles thank you skip .
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Could be the Throttle Position sensor, cracked vacuum line, or a bad intake manifold gasket.

  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    I sent you an email awhile ago and have not received a reply. When you get a chance, drop me an email. Address is in my profile.

    Edmunds Manager UGC Click on my screen name to send a personal message. Need help navigating? Check out Getting Started in Edmunds Forums.
    Need help picking out a make/model, finding inventory, or advice on pricing? Talk to an Edmunds Car Shopping Advisor

  • slimjimslimjim Posts: 3
    We purchased a 2005 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab in December and have had nothing but trouble since the day we got it. It has been at the dealership atleast 15 times since then. One of our problems is a bad vibration, they have put new front rotors on it three times, front brake shoes two times and a new set of rear drums and shoes twice and the vibration is still present. We also have problems with all of the seats in the truck if the door is opened up and it is raining and any water gets on the seats it leaves a big white mark kinda like when salt gets on something. And we also have a major issue with the paint; I don't know how many people hand was their vehicles anymore but if you own a 2005 Dakota Quad Cab you should and pay special attention to the bottom portion of the doors between the front and rear tires. Our paint is all chipping away and when we showed this to the dealership they said that the body style and tires are creating like a sandblaster by picking up all of the debrise off the road and blasting it into the side of my truck. Does anyone else have these same problems
  • reddakotareddakota Posts: 5
    i'm new here so, please bear with me. can anyone tell me where the low pressure port is for a 98 dakota sport with a 2.5 L engine. i have conflicting data on which port is the low pressure one.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have no clue what your specific setup is... but if you follow the plumbing, it should be apparent. The LOW pressure side is commonly between the reciever/drier jar and the compressor.
  • reddakotareddakota Posts: 5
    thank you. ithink i have it figured out now!
  • 83cj583cj5 Posts: 1
    unless you already got it fixed and you have a very good extended warranty the problem lies in the processor assembly. i have the problem with my durango. and i have a very good extended warranty but the brains of the damn truck aren't covered. but i got lucky and my uncle hooked me up with a very good guy he knows to fix it for half of what a dealer charges.
  • reddakotareddakota Posts: 5
    has anyone had a problem with their a/c? my seems to work off and on. some days it blows super cold and on others it blows warm air. has this happened to anyone else?
  • 68valiant68valiant Posts: 4
    Problem solved! The CTM (Central Timer Module)was bad. I put a new battery in and the problem persisted, so I took it back. Ordered a new CTM from my dealer. The part number has been superceded 4 times. That should tell you something. The total (without installation since I put it in myself in the parking lot) was $220. Then all that I needed was to have the keyless entry remotes programed which they did for free. As an added bonus for me, the Daytime Running Lights are not activated on the new CTM so now I no longer have them. That has been a minor victory for me as well.

    Anyone who has a 2001 Quad Cab (can't guarantee that they are all the same) that experiences this problem, the CTM is the module that is behind the DRIVERS SIDE kick panel. It has 3 multi-wire plugs in it. Three screws hold it in. All you have to do to change it is disconnect the battery and unplug the plugs. Remove the old one, install the new one, and reverse the rest of the process. Simple and fast. :)

    Thanks again!
  • tcsmpsitcsmpsi Posts: 31
    Hmmmmm....well, we got our '05 quad in November, and have had none of the problems which you list.

    Why did they replace the brake components so many times? They are easy enough to check wear/warp/round.

    I wouldn't know about the seats. On any new vehicle (or even used one) one of the very first things we do is cover the seats, with a towel or blanket if nothing else.

    Replacing the factory 'mud flaps' on the front with larger ones should help with the beating of your paint (another one of those things we always see to on our vehicles). If one travels rocky or other 'debris' strewn roads, without good flaps the paint in the area you mention is always going to be beaten.

    The only 'vibration' I noticed on ours, was when the brakes are applied. After checking with the dealer, and them checking, we found that the anti-lock is set to operate at a lower pressure than previous models (which is what it felt like).

    However, all that stated, we have the ol' plain jane version, wheels, tires, etc.
    Which is one of the things I have found over the years, is that the base models tend to be less problematic overall. Part of that could just be somewhat due to my particular lack of fondness for whizgitchits on a vehicle.
  • viciousvicious Posts: 1
    My 2003 Dakota is a 6 cyl and it does pretty good with gas. Recently however its been going threw gas like nothing, and using more than my 8 cyl Durango if not twice as much. I checked for leaks, and there aren't any, and I don't really know what to do. Any Ideas?
  • ashbyashby Posts: 3
    I think that my speed sensor is out but I don't know. When I slow down below 30 mph the speedometer falls and if I stop the truck stalls. Any Ideas before I spend $ 70 on a diagnostic test?
  • 03sxt03sxt Posts: 1
    I have a 03 Dakota SXT 4x4 which I bought used about 6 months ago. For the past two months several problems have been re-occuring with out much help from the dealer. The first - My dome light fuse seems to blow within hours of being replaced, The second - My right head light has gone out twice in several weeks, The third - My Highbeam indicator light will not function, Lastly - My MIL light has come on for a second time in a matter of weeks; the first time the dealer cleared it and said no problems were found. Any suggestions?

  • kirby34kirby34 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Dakota Quad cab. The only way the blower works is when I have it on the highest setting, if I turn it down I get nothing. Any ideas? I would like to avoid a third trip to the dealer in two months!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    That is a common problem among most of the vehicles I have owned over the years. Replace the blower-resister. I beleive it is installed in the air plenum behind the glovebox.
  • bcw238bcw238 Posts: 1
    '99 V6 automatic, check engine light came on first thing this morning right after I started up. Engine does not appear to be doing anything abnormal.
    How can I find the fault code without taking it in to the dealership?

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    A failed speed sensor will produce the symptom you're experiencing.

This discussion has been closed.