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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions



  • st1st1 Posts: 1

    Great tip on the deteriorating rubber brake line. My friend has a 2001 Dakota club cab which he invested $350 with the dealer about a year ago replacing (passenger front) 1 caliper - both rotors (1 warped beyond reality) and a brake job / unfortunately most of which was not covered by his Dodge extended warranty. He has been noticing the passenger front wheel brake dragging again at times (1 year later) creating excess heat - whole wheel is hot to the touch. After another $30 inspection at the local Dodge dealer reported no issue found.


  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    Superchips has a computer programmer for the 2001 Dakota 4.7. It is Part Number 3715.
  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Well guys with the warm weather I was maybe thinking of changing my coolant partialy. Just the radiator and overflow amount. I called Prestone and got a lukewarm response to there new products. Not very clear just that there tested to be compatable.
    So anyways I thought since I was just doing a partial change I would keep it all the same and go with the more than double priced dealer stuff. I read these forums and beleived my truck needed the HOAT MS9769 G 05. And I thought the color meant nothing.
    I happened to check my 01 manual this am and read that there are two types: IAT (green) ( that's what the book says) and HOAT (orange). The part #'s respectively are 4267020 and 5011764ab. Now I'm not sure, but I think the color was green in the past, ( i added approx. 1/2 qt once to overflow bottle.).
    But how do I know what my truck has in it. Does it say anywhere?.... I was about to go to dealer and pay 19.50 gal. for the Hoat, but I'm so confused now that I may go to walmart and pay 8.50 gal for prestone they claim is compatible.....
    Any help would be appreciated.

  • tcsmpsitcsmpsi Posts: 31
    It is NOT compatible. You should be able to see the color of your fluid in your reservoir.

    I have not been able to tell by year model which fluid is applied. When asked at the dealership(s), their reply was the best way was to check current fluid (presuming it has remained the same as original).

    While on the subject of fluids, when it states to use ATF 4 in trannys, powersteerings, etc., USE it. Other fluids are NOT compatible with it either.

    Try mixing these fluids, and when one has to repair/replace due to a really flubbed up mess, well, no one is going to be sympathetic (dealers/manufacturers).

    I've been at the dealers and able to look at some of the 'fluids' which were mixed.
    It ain't a pretty site.

    If you have any doubt as to what you have or should use in your particular Dak, take it to the dealer. The money you save, may well be your own.
  • 68valiant68valiant Posts: 4
    I just replaced mine on July 1st. The CTM is $245, I got mine for $220 (parts guy gave me a break). (Check post number 3484) I replaced mine in the dealership parking lot. Here are some basic steps:

    First disconnect your battery. Then pull up the sill plate in the driver side door and remove the kick panel. The module is attached to the side behind that panel. It will have 3 separate plugs connected into it. Unhook those. There are three phillips head screws that secure it in place; remove those. With new new CTM just reverse the steps.

    If you have keyless entry you will have to have the service guys "program" your remotes in with a scanner. I think the whole process took less than 30 minutes.

    Good luck!
  • dakotav8dakotav8 Posts: 1
    Dusty, I have an 05' Dakota Club Cab 4.7 V8 with 5400 miles and I hear a clunking sound when hitting bumps. Brought into dealer but they said nothing was wrong with the truck. Will check the shocks and lube the sway bar links.
    Any other suggestions as to what may be the problem?

  • 94duhkota94duhkota Posts: 1
    I don't have the answer but I have a question. I have a 94 Dakota and the blower stopped working. When I bought the truck I didn't get an owner's manual. Can someone tell me where the fuse is located for the blower? Thanks
  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Well, I went to dealer for another part and asked about the antifreeze on my 01 qc, 4.7. They said the only way to tell is to check the color of fluid. They also said with Dodge antifreeze only, the regular is green and the HOAT is orange/red. That is exactly what my manual said. I recall on this topic people saying they had green dodge HOAT???.
    I am going to check tomorrow. If its Hoat then to the dealer I go, if not (green) then to walmart.......

  • jimqjimq Posts: 14
    Mopar embittered antifreeze (HOAT) is actually Zerex G-05 and available at PEP boys for about half the dealers list.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Yeah...I may have contributed to this confusion. I did at one time believe that my '03 Dak with the 4.7 motor had HOAT because that's what it said on the overfill bottle. The coolant in mine is green. There is a website that talks about the different coolants and they discuss the fact that different coolants being the same color and there being no standard. This confusion was amplified by a discussion I had with a Dodge dealer's parts counter person who said that Mopar HOAT was green. He was incorrect.


    However, I believe that green in a Dodge truck is a Ethylene-Glygol based coolant, as opposed to a Propylene-Glygol which should not be used. It is not conventional glygol-based coolant, but a hybrid. Exactly what it is I do not know, but my discussions with Dodge technicians indicate that mixing anything else with it seems to destabilize the coolant and cause problems.

    At one time I knew who made the Chrysler HOAT and I'm not sure it was Zerex. I'm pretty sure it is NOT Texaco who makes DexCool.

    Sorry for the confusion.

  • if you have a manual tranny the wiring harness probably has rubbed down to the wire causing a short, therefore blowing the fuse. the problem is that the wiring harness runs next to the clutch, so everytime you push the clutch in it rubs the harness and shorts it out. you can check this out yourself by looking at it from underneath the vehicle by the clutch actuator. josh
  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Well guys I changed my coolant, I only drained the radiator and sucked out the overflow bottle. (I guess only half changed then, but I'll do again in a couple years). Anyways, after i sucked out the antifreeze (green) of the overflow bottle, I took a rag and attached to a long stick and "mopped" up the bottom of the overflow bottle- loaded w/ "muck". I put in the Prestone all brand, all formula, type.-yellow bottle. Also changed my pwrsteer fluid, disconected bottom hose on resevoir and let it drain, refilled with new atf+4. I also changed my front and rear differential oils, I have a small oil pump and just sucked out the old oil, (again the easy way I guess)spent some time to be sure I got most and put in MOBil 1 75w-90 gear oil. I Paid $8 a qt., I wanted to put in MOB1 75w-140 (new) but that was $16 qt.. My towing is minimal and usually in the winter anyways.
    But I wanted to do my transfer case. It takes atf+4, does anyone know how many qts it holds. I'd like to buy the correct amount, pretty expensive and at dealer onl y around me.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The NV233 transfer case takes 2.5 pints; the NV244 takes 2.85 pints.

  • I had a 99 GMC Sierra short bed with a similar problem. Brand new from factory, it shook and shimmied after 30 mph. After many trips to dealer, always same story , nothing wrong. Filed for arbitration thru Illinois lemon law thru Better Business Bureau. They sent a certified A.S.E. independent mechanic to check it. Lo and behold the rear axle was not centered on the frame. Hope this helps you some.
  • This noise sounds as if the spare tire is loose and banging on the bottom of the pickup bed. Somewhat of a hollow thumping noise. Checked brake cables under bed, they seem tight. Spare tire is tight also, cannot even wiggle it by hand. Makes the hollow noise when hitting bumps in road, or vibrations on a semi smooth surface, such as concrete. Salesman heard the noise on a test drive with me, But service techs 2 different appointments can't hear it. Any help will be greatly appreciated. 1600 miles, 4 wheel drive Laramie, Club cab, bed liner from Dodge. $30,000 truck shouldn't do this.
  • I have read all the reply's with much interest. I took home an 05, quad, 4x2 V/6, on 7/23/05, don't do much towing. After a few days the wife and I felt a vibration or shimmy, what ever you call something thats not right. Took to dealer who diagnosed both (goodyear) left tires as bad. They were replaced, but I still fell as if at times I'm riding over small speed bumps. Only have 600 miles on it and already I hate going back to the dealer like going to the dentist. I think my next step will be an independent inspection by a local alignment shop to check the other tires and rims.I'll be keeping a close I eye on this topic.
  • Took my 05, 4x2 V6, to investigate vibration. Not able to do a test ride, one service tech said check tir PSI, and set to whats on sticker on inside of driver door.
    Came with Goodyear 245/R70/16. Tire shows PSI @ 44, sticker on door shows 35 PSI. Any suggestions?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The 44 pounds listed on the sidewall is the maximum cold inflation pressure at which the tire's construction can withstand. Above that the tire becomes susceptible to cord separation and ultimately failure.

    The tire pressures listed on the manufacturers tire placard are the correct pressures for safe vehicle operation. Over inflation will cause rapid center wear and overcome the tires ability to absorb road shocks as well as causing directional instability problems. High tire pressures will also cause oscillations in the front suspension that will be transmitted through the steering system as hyper-feedback to the driver.

    Always refer to and abide by the tire pressures listed on the vehicle. I see trucks occasionally where the driver has intentionally over inflated the tires to 44 lbs. in an attempt to get better fuel mileage. On transport or truck tires, that's fine. But not on passenger car tires, which is what you have.

    Best regards,
  • abba85abba85 Posts: 1
    Hey, I have a 2001 dodge dakota sport and when i turn the air on anything but high, there is hardly any air at all coming out. What do I need to do to fix this. Thanks- Stephen :sick:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Replace the blower resister located behind the glovbox..
  • tcsmpsitcsmpsi Posts: 31
    Since my '01 quad, I have had the 'dilemma' of tire pressure. We (me and my chassis specialist of 20+ yrs) have been working with it since to determine the best pressure to run.

    My wife's PT and previous chrysler have also been under the same 'inspection'.

    With the tires that have come with the vehicles (same 44 lb limit Goodyear basic tires), we have found that the best response and wear is 39 lbs. That is currently what is being run in my '05 quad and my wife's PT.

    Since we (chassis guy and I) have been watching closely for that, he has also found that (they also sell/install tires...Remington tires predominantly) pressure has been working out best for most of their work, too.
  • fink44fink44 Posts: 1
    I have a 3.7 in my Dakota 4x4 and have had some problems backing up. The truck powers out and does not spin the tire when trying to climb a moderate grade in the gravel. In forward this does not occur the truck will climb the same grade with little effort or spin the tires trying. The transmission is not slipping the engine just powers out at 2000 rpm and the tires do not move. I have taken it to the dealer and they are going to compare it to another truck and see what happens but they do not have an answer for me yet. Has anyone else experienced a similar issue.

  • redsk1redsk1 Posts: 1
    when i have driven the truck for 30 minutes or so and am going at highway speed, if i let off the gas the transmission will downshift from overdrive to the next lower gear and the rpm's go up to 3000 or more. the truck sould not downshift at speeds of 60 mph when i let off the gas. has anyone else had this problem ? and if so what was the cause ? i have a 99 dodge dakota 4x4 sport.any help will be greatly aprecceated
  • Hello again ! I was leaving for work this morning and noticed my CEL was on again! I checked for a code and got P0455, so I ran inside to find out what that was at and it said "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected". It doesn't sound like a big thing, but does anyone know what that could be?? Someone told me I could just be water in my intake. It's an '02 QC 4.7L Auto. :mad:

    Thanks guys,

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    P0455 is not related to "water in intake" (I assume this means "intake manifold")

    Instead, P0455 means "Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected" (just like you said.) In the past, I have described in technical detail the diagnostics and conditions that can flag a P0455 error. Please review the forum archives to see those details.

    As a quick check, make sure your fuel cap is on tightly and not leaking gasoline vapors.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Typically, the majority of the time a P0455 is caused by a defective fuel cap. On older Daks there are some rubber fuel vapor lines that go from the fuel tank to the evaporative canister thast split.

    Best regards,
  • twdartytwdarty Posts: 2
    My check engine light came on, it's been starting rough in the mornings & not wanting to take gas very easy. I unhooked the battery & reset everything, that worked for about 3 days, now it's back on again. How can I code this up myself? Do I need to buy a kit or what? It's a '98 dakota 4x4 with a 318. thanks, Terry
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    to find out the code that flagged the CEL

    without starting engine -- key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON then leave in ON position.That will put the computer into diagnostics mode. Watch the display as it shows you the code. (if multiple codes exist, they will alternate on the display)
  • does anyone know how I remove the two top rear shock mount bots on my Daknota without removing the whole box
  • does anyone have the name of a special tool to remove the top shock mounting bolts on my Dakota. The only way I can see is to remove the box. Any ideas? Im not an engineer and obvioulsy this has been designed for ease of assembally not taking into account the an owner may want to replace the shocks at some time without removing the box
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