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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions



  • twdartytwdarty Posts: 2
    Thanks, I'll give it a try today...Terry
  • regnarregnar Posts: 10
    Has anyone had this problem and if so what is the fix.On a 01 Quad with 4.7 when I turn on the right turn signal both rear lights flash as if I'd turned on the 4way's. Every now and then all 4 lights flash as well as the dash signals. Also through all this the left brake light does not work :(
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Just put a wrench on it and start cranking... the "nut end" has a metal "flag" on it that will bump into the nearest obstruction then hold the nut while you are turning the other end. (at least that is how my 2000 Dakota shocks were held on)

    What kind of wrench are you using? (ratchet , box-end.... other)
  • i changed fuel pump and filter,drove three miles and lost power to coil and spark to engine, :confuse: :confuse:
  • After the first service trip with the 05, quad, and dealer replacing both left tires, still has a vibration between 40 & 50 mph. This time I was told when they replaced the left tires, they did not match the tread pattern of the right side ( I only saw one Goodyear tire for dakotas). They replaced both right side tires. Sevice guy told me the service mgr, and technician took it for a drive and find no vibration. On the way home, hit between 40-45 mph, and there it was, I can feel the steering wheel vibrate, and you hear a buffetting sound. I really don't want to take it back. I now have 1178 miles on the truck, and starting to look at Tacoma's or something else. Any suggestions before I take drastic measures.

  • I too have a vibration problem with an 05 Dakota Quad 4X4. Mine is between 60 - 70 MPH. My first visit to the Dealership I was told it was the Air Pressure in my tires. They set each tire at 35lb and sent me out the door. That didn't fix it.

    I returned, they test drove my truck, admitted that there was a vibration, and agreed to balance all four tires. That didn't fix it.

    I returned again, they test drove my truck, then told me the vibration was normal! I said I had to have a bad tire or wheel, They disagreed and said once again that my vibration was normal. I asked to have the tires replaced and I was told that I would have to go to a goodyear dealer, that was their responsibility! (Poor Customer Service from a Five Star Dealership!)

    After seeing all of the other vibration complaints on this board, I asked the Dealer to have my tires replaced with another brand (believing that I had deffective Goodyears), and the dealer refused.

    I then made a decision to replace the tires with Michelins, and if that solved the problem I was planning on filing a claim in Small Claims Court to re-coup my loss.

    When I had the new tires mounted, I asked the mechanic to keep a close eye on anything that might be the source of my vibration, and he did find it!

    He put the wheel alone (no tire on the wheel) on the tire balance machine, and turned it on. You could visually see that the wheel moved side to side! It wasn't a "true Round" rike a wheel should be. Both of my rear wheels were bad.

    He also commented that when he took the wheel off,that "it it had a lot of weight on it, more that a new wheel should have". The wheel with no tire on it was already calling for 1.00 oz of weight! Of the two front wheels, one required no weight, and the other asked for less than .50 oz of weight.

    The mechanic also commented that he believed that this (aluminum alloy wheel) was a new wheel for Dodge. He had not seen any before.

    What is ironic is that my wife and I test drove another Dakota before we purchased this one. It had a severe vibration! I told the dealership that I believed that the tires needed balanced. If they could balance the tires, we would test drive it again, and if it was ok, we would purchase the truck.

    Well.... they did not balance the tires on that truck for me. Guess what they did? they changed all four tires/rims with another Dakota, then had me take it out again. I asked why they were changing rims instead of balancing the tires? They responded that "it was easier". Needless to say, ot still had a vibration and we walked. This now leads me to believe that they are aware that they have bad wheels. Why else would they replace all four tires/wheels on a new truck, instead of simply balancing they like I asked?

    So... I am convinced that Dodge has "Bad Rims", and based on my experience at the first dealership, I believe that they know they have bad rims.

    I called my dealership and asked to have my rims replaced. They said they would get back to me. Guess what, a week has gone buy, and they never called me back.

    I sent a letter to the President of Dodge explaining my problem and dissapointment, and asking to have this situation resolved. If it isn't, I will purchase four new rims on my own, and go to small claims court to have a third party Judge decide if I deserve a refund for my new wheels.

    By the way, the Presidents Name/Address is:

    Mr. Dieter Zetche
    Daimler Chrysler Corporation
    PO Box 21-8004
    Auburn Hills, MI 48321-8004

    Based on the number of
    Vibration" complaints on this board alone, I believe it's time for a "class action suit" to get this problem resolved.

    I am going to hang in there and see if I hear back from their corporate office. If not, I will be purchasing four new wheels.

    Good Luck! let us know what you find.

    Thanks to all for sharing their info.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    It sounds to me that there was probably nothing wrong with the Goodyear's that came with your truck and that the wheel was the problem along.

    Just as an aside, I noticed one day last week on my bicycle ride through my Dodge dealer's lot that five brand new, yet to be sold RAMs had either one or two of their wheels and tires removed with the vehicle sitting on cinder blocks. I did not notice any Dakotas in that condition, though.

    Yes, Dodge has gone to a new manufacturer for some wheels.

    I wonder...?

    Best regards,
  • i hope this helps anyone with the same problem. my compressor would not engage. come to find out that if you take the front of the clutch off you can see some shims. i removed one of them and have been enjoying ice cold a/c ever since! hope this helps! :D
  • Thanks for all your help! It was indeed a split hose that led from the EVAP Canister to the engine compartment. Replaced it and reset the light. So far so good!

    One more thing, the air blows weakly out of the side vents and on low they all blow weak. Could this be the blower resistor as well??

    Thanks again,

  • wgateswgates Posts: 1
  • regnarregnar Posts: 10
    If anyone is interested the problem was solved by the dealer. They replaced a part called the >combination switch<. It controls both the turn signals and the 4ways.
  • regnarregnar Posts: 10
    Has anyone towed a fifth wheel with a Quad cab and if so what hitch did you use.
  • For some time now my 97 Dodge Dakota has been displaying the ever-vague "Check Engine" light. My last inspection (May 2005) indicated a possibly faulty PCV valve. Simple Question:
    On the 97 Dakota, does the PCV valve have a sensor that trigger the warning message? Or must it be coming from some other cause?

    p.s. I have heard also that the Dakota is notorious for displaying these messages for possibly no valid reason at all, and that they may be often be "ignored".

    Any comments are appreciated!
  • bibbib Posts: 1
    Sounds like we have similar problems. Only the right brake light worked on my 97 Dakota. I replaced the bulb in the brake light housing on the back of the cab and now I have no brake lights. I tested the voltage at each location and get 12 volts everywhere but the left rear. I'm so confused! I hope someone can offer a solution.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The PCV valve operates directly off of intake manifold vacuum and does not have a specific sensor for it. Diagnostic trouble codes are not displayed without a reason, even on your vintage Dakota. There are certain category fault that initiate a "Check Engine" lamp but after a number of correct operation cycles of the engine they will clear and the Check Engine Lamp will switch off.

    Have you checked for the presence of an active diagnostic trouble code in the display?

  • You can have it rebuilt or you can also have the whole system flushed out....
  • Does anyone know if the Trottle Position Sensor can be adjusted on a 1997 Dodge Dakota 5.2 litter

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I do not beleive it is "adjustable" by design... but if you research it on the internet, you will find a write-up that describes how to elongate the screw-holes so it can be adjusted. As I recall, there is a specific voltage-reading that has been found to be desireable at idle-position which seems to run the best.
  • I have a 2005 Club Cab 4X2 with V- 6 and 4 speed a auto trans. I can also the say that the truck shimmies over bumps. It almost seem as if it carries out the original bump or shimmy. Its kind of seems to make up its own bumps going down the road. I now have 19,000 mile on it. It has been in for a rear diff. rebuild TIMES, Its start to whine and the bearings go. Wonder if this is part of the shimmy problem, causing bear to go. Or is there something out of balance.
  • Thanks It's Just that my truck is causing bursts of fuel from the injectos and has an unstable idle so I put a code reader through it and it said that the TPS input is above the maximum acceptable voltage so I changed the sensor and it's causing problems so I heard on some cars it can be adjusted... :sick:
  • It sounds like you need a major tune up...
  • You need to change your starter because those are the symptoms of a bad starter eventually it won't start anymore either that or check y our battery voltage.
  • Well it is a lot of miles but I had a 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport V6 with 255,000 miles it had a few leaks but it still ran good with no problems then I bought a 1997 Dodge dakota with 50,000 miles and it's giving me a lot of problems...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    This is an update on my 2000 Dak. With nearly 70K miles on it, the Rear axle pinion-seal started to leak. This happened durning the worst-possible time. I was on a 6hour round-trip to pick up a sofa for my daughter. The entire trip was on the interstate at highway speeds.

    Now the GOOD news -- Most of you may recall that I am running REDLINE lubricants in all the gearcases (front axle, rear axle, xfer case and manual tranny)
    The loss of lube in the rear-axle did NOT harm the expensive gears and bearings in any way.

    I have since replaced the seal and re-filled with REDLINE gear lube. I chatted with the REDLINE dealer when I purchesed the lube and told him the story about losing the gear-lube on a long trip with an load in the back. He mentioned that he has seen racecars running REDLINE in the rear-axle that have lost the fluid during the race... no damage to them either. REDLINE is so far superiour to most other lubricnats that it protects where other lubes cannot.

    I cannot say enough good things about REDLINE lubes ( ) Not only did they give me 3 -to- 4 MPG better fuel milage, they also saved me an expensive rebuild of my rear-axle.
  • Hi Dusty,

    Thanks for your reply, and for clarifying that the PCV valve doesn't have a dedicated sensor. No, I haven't checked for the presence of an active diagnostic code because I don't have the interface to do so (Dodge cleverly has kept that out of owners' hands in order to force us to dealerships). Wish that I did have the interface; I do have a Fluke meter.

    I also heard that discoonnecting the battery for a few minutes, and restarting should allow the on-board computer to reset. I believe I've tried this and the Check Engine light persisted.

    Any other thoughts/advice? :cry:
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    My 2001 4.7 auto Quad has a cold starting problem? When engine starts, rpms go to about
    2500 to 3000 rpms, there's a pinging sound and the throttle hunts up and down for a little until I put it in gear. After motor has warmed up, the problem doesn't return until truck
    has cooled down overnight. I have new plugs, cleaned the throttle body about 6 months ago. Has anyone else had this problem? I plan on taking it to the dealer.
    I suspect the TPS?
    My truck has just turned 60K miles, still on the orginal GY Eagle LS tires and brakes.
    I figure I'll need tires soon and I'll put the same tire back on.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Clean your throttlebody. (including the IAS - Intake Air Solenoid)

    I clean mine at least annually. It is easy to do and the idle quality is noticably improved.

    Also, look for an vacuum leak.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    Thanks, will try that first.
  • My 92 Dakota 3.9L V-6,120000 mi., auto w/OD hesitates then backfires through the intake when I accelerate while driving between 45-65mph. If i kick it down to increase RPM it goes.This doesn't happen constantly .Also the air vent doors close inside the cab(I can hear them shut) when I tramp on it.Code reads O2 system. Egr seems ok (I cleaned it) PCV good, fuel tank vent workingI'm lost,please help. Thanks,FIREDOME
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Actually, Chrysler's the only one that does allow you to see active codes.

    Starting with the ignition switch in the "off" position, rotate the ignition key as follows (do not go to the "start" position):


    Observe the oddometer's vacuum flouresent display and wait a few seconds. If you have an active code ("P" codes) they will be displayed in sequence. After all active codes are displayed the word "done" will be displayed.

    Best regards,
This discussion has been closed.