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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions



  • dodgetrukndodgetrukn Posts: 116
    Repaired by local dealership. See post 4115. Truck now 5 yrs old. Evaporator (in-cab-$220), R134A($59.50), labor($622.05) and tax, total $956.
    3rd party warranty covered 100%. Glad to have truck back.
    Just can't believe only 5 yrs old and ball joints replaced (recall), blower resistor blown, rear rebuilt, and now a/c problems. Planned Obsolescence? Cheap parts?? , Not normal wear??..or Just my luck.. Starting to worry...but happy Warranty paid > $2000 beans now for repairs.. which I believe were premature failures..
    73000 miles...
  • mnallmnall Posts: 8
    What can I do to help? Dodge needs to be held responsible for these dakotas!!!!!!!
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    The valve cover gaskets on my 02 4.7L are showing signs leakage after only 64K miles. This seems a bit premature. They're not cheap either, about $52 at Autozone. Anyone else's 4.7L showing similar signs?
  • jwctrainjwctrain Posts: 4
    Well I recreated the problem yesterday. I left work and drove the interstate for about fifteen miles. At the end of the ramp is a light. At start up I noticed a shudder and noise. I drove another half mile to shop. When I went to leave here are the symptoms. It is a popping sound and feel. Like driving on dry pavement in four wheel drive turning. Does not matter if transmission is in gear or not. You hear and feel the diff binding. I was on a slight incline so I could roll the truck back and forth left right and straight. The slower you go the easier it is to hear. Left or right no difference. But it does not happen all the time. It seems worst after the interstate driving, like a heat build up. Nothing wrong with the u-joints. The dealer is the only one to service and they should have added the diff additive every time at 24k and 36k. :confuse:
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Just a guess, but based on the year you may find that the evaporator has a leak. You could have a leak somewhere in the system.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Since the introduction of the 4.7 I know of only one failure. That was on an engine that had just over 500 miles. It appears that there were a very small quantity of bad pumps in the first year of production (1999). Since then, I've heard no reports.

    I would suspect that the pump failure is really a clogged pick up tube from sludge.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Your symptoms sound like expended friction modifier. You can add 4 ounces if you like, but I would highly recommenr changing the rear differential lubricant and adding the friction modifier.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Although it may not matter -- the valvecovers on the 4.7L are MAGNESIUM. (unlike most other engines) The factory service manual have several warnings about the magnesium valvecovers. The most important one it to make SURE that no wires nor hoses are touching them. Magnesium may be lightweight... but the vibration of a wire harness lying on it will wear a hole right thru it.

    To more specifically answer your question, in over 6 years of following the 4.7L engine since its introduction in the 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee, I have never heard of a problem with valvecover seal leakage. Perhaps yours is just a rare occourance.

    I wonder what kind of oil you are running and if you ever used some kind of oil-additive that may have affected the valvecover seals?
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    I've been running either 5W-30 Valvoline (summer) or 5W-30 Mobil-1 (winter). I've never used any sort of additives. I've checked the valve cover bolts and everything seems tight. However, the rear half of the valve covers and cylinder heads are a bit oily. Usually, you'll get 75-100K miles out of a set of modern rubber valve cover gaskets.
  • dodgetrukndodgetrukn Posts: 116
    Dustyk, Yes the dealership replaced the evaporator coil as the whole dash had to be taken apart. No other leaks were found as I was told. Thank goodness for the warranty I had ! Ger
  • amend1amend1 Posts: 98
    When my Dak had 7000 miles on it, I too had a sqeaking noise from underneath. I put the truck up in the air with the 4 wheel drive engaged and found it to be the u-joints on the forward driveshaft. I brought it to Wayne Dodge and the #@$&;* mechanics there couldn't figure it out. I had to show them what it was. The moron admitted that's what it was and they replaced it. Check yours to see if that's the noise.
  • dsweetdsweet Posts: 15
    Can anyone assist me in thr repair for engine light 0442 on a 01 dodge dakota, quad cab, v8 4.7? Has anyone else had this problem? :confuse:
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    Did you search the internet for code P0442?
    Is your gas cap loose or did you forget to put it back since last fill-up?
    P0442 leads to evaporation leak. (i.e.) gas cap loose,etc.

    I didn't put the gas cap on after one fill-up. Check engine light came on, put gas cap on and after several days the light went out.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    Finally replaced the PVC valve on my 4.7. Seems to have stopped the cold morning hesitations? Now that's a tricky little bugger to change, once ya find it!
  • dsweetdsweet Posts: 15
    I checked and rechecked the gas cap and after over a week it's still on. I guess it's not too serious then so I can wait until after the snow and cold weather, Thanks
  • My Dakota, with 104,000 miles on it won't shift from 4x4 to
    2x4 without my having to stop, kill the engine and wait
    awhile. What's wrong? Anyone know? Someone said it might
    be the actuator switch on the front differential. Someone
    else said the entire acturator motor (and switch) has to be
    replaced. Anyone know for sure?
  • rich28rich28 Posts: 23
    I'm having the same exact engine surging problem with my 2001 5.9L Dakota QC, and it's VERY sporadic. What's worse is every time that I bring it to the shop, it doesn't act up. This weekend it did it for three hours through the hills in PA, and today, not at all.

    Has anyone found the real solution to fixing this problem...I've seen everything from "Replacing the anti-lock brake controller" to "flashing the PCM". I called a dealer today and they didn't have a clue. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
  • mtrialsmmtrialsm Posts: 159
    Sounds like the Throttle Position Sensor? Quick easy change for a $40.00 part.
  • rich28rich28 Posts: 23
    Thanks for your reply! Did you have the same problem and that fixed it?

    Also, I can replace some parts on my truck, but I'm not a mechanic - is this something that I can do and how do I go about it doing it?
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    My 02 QC will be in the shop next week to get the heater core replaced. I figured while the cooling system was drained I would have them replace the coolant (only good for 5 yrs anyway), but was debating whether to replace the radiator hoses or not. While everything is drained, it's a pretty easy thing to do. With the 5 yr coolant, I don't think I would wait for the 10 yr point to change hoses anbd waiting a couple of years probably isn't worth the hassle of draining everything. Maybe it's better to spend the $75 and not worry about it.
  • mkelley1mkelley1 Posts: 6
    My 2005 Dakota quad cab 3.7 is still wobbling/vibrating and I'm still fighting to get it fixed. I had my tires checked by an independent source and they also believe the vibration is coming from the drive train. Does anybody else have the same problem? Is anyone else fighting to get things fixed? My engine is still knocking from the lower engine( they say it is normal) other sources tell me it could be a rod. Frustrated with My Dakota and Dealership!
  • bunthaybunthay Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure the problem? I'm going thru the same issues with my 2001 dakota.
  • jon1975jon1975 Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 dodge dakota 2.5L 2WD. My truck shut down on me the other day for no reason while driving, it made no noises or sputters,just shut down the motor,electrical system stayed workin. i've replaced plugs wires, plugs, rotor and cap. I have spark and fuel reaching the cylinder and timing is also set correctly, but vehicle will not start. cranks over smoothly but shows no attempt to start. i've checked all fuses and relays and all are good.I also ran code check on vehicle but due to the fact that i removed the battery cable at 1 point i apparently removed the data stored in the computer, codes read battery recently removed and end of codes. Any help on this problem would be greatly appreciated! ThankYou!
  • jon1975jon1975 Posts: 3
    by the way the 1994 dodge dakota 2.5l 2wd is (TBI)
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Check compression.....
  • jon1975jon1975 Posts: 3
    I've checked compression and all seems good. this problem has me baffled. thinking it has to be electrical due to the abrupt shut off and no engine warning signs.
  • gtownguygtownguy Posts: 73
    Hi Guys,
    I have a 01 QC and wanted to know what size the door speakers are? I have the stock radio/cassette with 4 speakers. What diameter are they? Are there any depth limitations. I want to replace stock. Then change the radio later on. Any suggestions for a better speaker at a reasonable cost?. I am not an audio fanatic.
    Any help would be appreciated.

  • I've got a 2000 Dakota CC 4X4. I'm getting a Engine light coming on every 4 days or so and it stays on for about 3 days and then goes off for another 4. The code that comes up is Rad Fan Circut error. I'm thining it might be the relay but before i try anything, i thought i'd ask if anyone has had a similar problem?

    Thanks in advance.
  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    Check with Crutchfield for info on speaker sizes and depth restrictions.
  • :confuse: I have a 2000 dakota. I'm having a problem with my blinkers. They just won't work. The bulbs are fine, the fuse is fine. The signals themselves don't work, the indicator lights on the console don't work. My hazards work fine, so I supposing they are on separate circuits. I don't even know where to begin looking for a solution. :cry:
This discussion has been closed.