Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

bpeebles

Let us know how it works out.

From my photo, you can see that I used a few TyWraps on the pipe insulation just tight enough to hold it in place. I have been meaning to make a cardboard "template" for the top of the "aluminum can on the firewall" then cut some of the stick-on tape to make a custom-fitting insulating cover.

Although I was initially skeptical that the stick-on insulating tape would actually stay in place, After about 18 months, there are no indications of peeling.

bmwjoe

Hey bpeebles,

Are pictures of your mod posted on any site? If they are not, please e-mail them to me.

Drive Safe,

Joe

bpeebles

(bmwjoe) SURE!
Go up to append #1695. I put a link there several days ago.

If you have problems with that link, I can email the photo to you directly.... let me know.

jhorl

bpeebles...after farther examination of your picture it appears that you made a modification to your Intake downstream of the air filter. Was this for performance or economy. I might have to pick up those parts on my next visit to Home Depot as well.

bmwjoe

Bpeebles. Thanks for the picture of your modification. Where did you get the stick on aluminum faced insulation? What is it called? Was it expensive.

Drive Safe,

Joe

bpeebles

Please re-read append #1691. It explains the process in some detail. All parts from HomeDepot. The stick-on aluminum-faced foam insulation was packaged like a roll of duct tape. (It may have been in a cardboard box) I do not recall the price... but it was not over $20USD.

bpeebles

(jhorl) I was wondering if anyone would comment on my air intake mod. As you surmise, the parts came from HomeDepot. The rubber elbow was the most expensive part. (it comes with both clamps)

The other rubber coupler also came with the clamps.

The aluminum-looking straight piece is actually a section of 3" PVC schedule40 pipe. I smoothed all the inside edges of the ends for improved airflow. I then lightly sanded with fine grit sandpaper and gave it several VERY light coats of silver (aluminium) spraypaint. It looks like brushed aluminum as you can see in the photo.

(I allready had the section of pipe and spraypaint from other projects around the house.)

Now, I am considering somting like this next;

http://www.airaid.com/300-117.shtml

Kirstie_H

Do you drive a Chevrolet Suburban or the Dodge Dakota Quad Cab? If so, and if you're willing to talk with a major daily newspaper about your truck, please send your vehicle info and contact info including phone number by noon Eastern on Tuesday, July 2 to jfallon@edmunds.com. Thanks!

mrjake

Well, I have a 2000 CC 4X4 with the 4.7/auto. I just turned 18,000 mi. and have started noticing a pulsating feeling in the front brakes. Now I know that this is not rare for these vehicles so I am wondering what the next course of action should be. I bought the extended warranty when I purchased this truck new, but wonder if this problem will be covered. I have never been back to the dealership since my purchase for the usual dislike of their business. I do love my truck and want to make it last, but really haven't done anything to it besides changing the oil over to mobil-1 5W-30. Any suggestions on dealing with this brake problem would be great as well as any other advice on general improvements I should make. I plan on driving this truck for many years.

bpeebles

Technically (xtended warantee or not)the brakes are only covered for 12 months.

On the Dakota, the front brakes are KNOWN to be a weak spot on an otherwise great truck. Many of us (including myself) have replaced the front brake rotors with POWERSLOT rotors from a group-buy. I also went with the ceramic-based pads from RAYBESTOS.

I am very pleased with this combonation which has noticibly improved the braking performance of my Dakota as well as the brake pedal feel.

I, too expect my 2000 Dakota to go for at least 12 years and 150,000 miles.

bluebayou

Anybody out there know the capacity of the 12 bolt (9.25?) running 3.55's rear diff?

I've got some conflicting information.

Thanks!!

Blue

bcarter3

According to the '01 Service manual the capacity of the 9.25 differential is 4.9 pints.

Dick

gjble

This does not have anything to do with Dodge Dakota, but I know some of you guys are pretty savvy and might have an explanartion.My next door neighbor has a Jeep Cherokee, full time four wheel drive, automatic, big V8 with about 140,000 miles. Nice looking, taken care of.She was backed into her garage and started the engine,with a normal idle.She had her foot on the brake and put it into drive when it took off full speed spinning the wheels and drove allmost head on into their brick retaining wall. They had a mechanic over that night and he duplicated the feat. I watched the throttle linkage and turned the ignition on without starting the engine and put it into drive and nothing moved. Anybody have any ideas?

In Atlanta

bluebayou

I think that I would be hard pressed to get 4.9 pints in. I've got 2.25 quarts in it now and it is right at the fill hole.

Hmmmm! I thought that it was supposed to be filled to 5/8 of an inch below the fill hole. Any ideas?

Blue

bcarter3

The service manual instructions are to fill the differential to the bottom of the fill plug hole. It would be kind of difficult to overservice or underservice using those guidelines. Maybe a half pint was left in when it was drained. I haven't done mine yet. It is possible that if you have the Trac-Lok the fluid quantity may be less. The manual is not clear.

bluebayou

bcarter3: Thanks for the info. I am getting a consensus that fill it to the plug and let it go, so that is what I am going to do.

FYI, I took the cover off and cleaned it real good. got all the shavings and such out, so it was completely (bone) dry. Oh well, up to the plug and I'm done with it.

Thanks for your help.

Blue

bcarter3

Just curious, Blue. Do you have the Trak-Lok differential?

livnlrn

bpeebles,
Started doing your AC mod to my Quad. I bought the foil sticky insulation (comes in plastic bag, made by Frost King, $5) and a length of 3/8 pipe insulation, $1. Got the 'can' done (even the bottom) and the 2 pipes from it. The one from the firewall and the last one is from the compressor in front of the engine, as seen in the picture right? None of the ones way out in front then, from the dryer I think. Not positive all the components in the system. Thanks, seems to work better, I was only getting the real cold air when I was on MAX but now normal seems better.

Eric

bpeebles

(livnlrn) It sounds as if you you have insulated most of the AC piping. There is one short section of pipe that is NOT in my photo. I had to remove my air-filter housing to get at it. I have tried to describe where it is below....

You would actually reduce the effencency of the AC if you insulated the HI-pressure side of the system. This is from the TOP pipe out of the compresser - into the 'small radiator' and out the other side of it. From there, it goes into a flexable rubber section of pipe. After that flexable section, you should insulate the solid piping all the way into the firewall. This is the beginning of the "low pressure" part of the system and is where the cold is 'created'.

I have had the oppertunity in the past couple days to use my AC (95degrees 95%+ humidity). It gets so cold that I have to actually turn up the heat a notch or 2. This is MUCH better than before I installed this 'mod' to my AC system.

livnlrn

So I shouldn't insulate the pipe after the condensor (little radiator), that runs next to the windshield fill port and then under the air box. But after it comes out the other side of the air box and goes to the firewall I should insulate it you are saying, correct? Wanna make sure I got all this right because I have a few people here interested in what I am doing with the heat we have had. Thanks again.

amend1

mrjake,
Unless the dealer is going to give you new pads and rotors for free (as if it occurred prior to 12,000 mi) I would take bpeebles advise and blow off Dodge. Put good, aftermarket rotors and pads on and be done with it. I've been getting mine changed every 9000 mi, (free) but have a set of new Raybestos rotors on deck when Dodge says enough!

ahasher

well my 2000 has over 55000 miles now ( I commute ALOT) still has no sign of rotor warping. I do still have my little buddy the chirp frequently when initially applying the brakes tho. Still have the original Goodyears with NO unusual wear patterns.. nice even wear due to mostly highway driving I suppose with good alignment. I do plan on new tires (researching for other brands with a more aggressive tread.. so advice is welcomed) before hurricane season gets into full swing.. I also still plan on slotted rotors and ceramic pads soon too.. since house maintenance recently took my Dodge QC upgrade budget down ...

Otherwise smooth quiet steady ride and NO COMPLAINTS... still a very happy QC pilot.. there! I checked in.. ;-)

bluebayou

bcarter3:

Sorry for the late reply, I went down to tennessee for a family reunion this holiday weekend.

I do have the trac-loc rear end.

FYI, the trip was very uneventful. Which is a good thing. I averaged just about 19 mpg on the way down (470 miles) with AC on the whole way, which is pretty good for me. I have a pretty heavy foot. Didn't get that on the way back as I really wanted to get home! lol!

Rear end performed flawlessly. No whine or noise, and seems to be less noise when I put it in drive and it takes up some slack. Maybe thats the RP working like advertised.

Just to let everybody know, when i pulled the cover and got the shavings out, there was a piece of metal the size of a staple (a thick staple) sitting in the bottom. Seems kind of odd, but the rear diff has never given me any problems with noise or slippage.

Blue

cbacres1

Well, i've finally joined the major repair club. I also changed to mobil one oil and found heavy shavings on the bottom, along with a piece of steel that looked like a half of a spacer. Everything was tight and no noise and this was right before a 5000 mile trip and no time to donate my truck to Dodge. No problems on trip, except I now have joined the pulsating brake club.Brakes fine until 37 K miles.

They confirmed it was part of the carrier and ordered parts ( carrier). Went to reassemble and said housing was damaged. 1-1/2 weeks later it is ready.Plus side- the clunking during changing gears ( auto) seems to subsided. Minus side- A howelling sound when coasting and housing darn near burns to the touch.

Cannot wait to see what they say now. Seems I've heard about other hot to the touch issues. This was the case before also, but seams worse now. Anyone else have any problems?

Also, would anyone be kind enough to tell where to get the shop manual again?Thanks

Blue, might want to keep an eye on yours.
Bpeebles, could this be caused by inproper gear set up?

bpeebles

(livnlrn) You are correct. There is a special length of flexable hose as it passes under the airfilter housing. (On my Dak, it is an aluminum-coated length with a protective casing around it.) This is where the high-pressure is bled thru a very small orfice into the low-pressure side of the system. This causes the cold to be generated at that point.
(When you COMPRESS a gas, it gets hot.... when you uncompress it, the heat is released.(cold))

If you have any doubts about where the low-pressure (cold) part of the system starts, Just run the AC for awhile then turn off the engine and carefully feel the pipes with your hands... It will be VERY obvious which are the "cold" pipes that should be insulated.

bcarter3

Craig, You can order the Shop Manual from Dyment Distribution Services. Phone: 1-800-890-4038. There should be an order blank in your Owner's Manual. I ordered by phone. About $100.00

Dick

slr9589

I put the dayton timberline a/t's (225 15) on my 00 at 39k...with the amount of rain we get in southeast tx. in a short period they are great for traction . not to noisey either. easy on the wallet too.
slr9589

husker54

Been lurking on this board since I bought my Dakota in February, but this is my first post.

Well I had 5000 miles on my 2002 Quad Cab and decided to rotate the tires.

Been a while since I last rotated my own tires. Had my last vehicle, a Cherokee, for 140,000 miles and 13 yrs, replaced the stock tires right off the bat, and always had free rotation with the new tires I've bought.

But since I'm cheap and I've read all the posts about how overtorqued lugnuts can contribute to warped rotors, I've taken to doing my own again.

Anyway, everything was going fine until I went to jack up the right rear axle. The saddle on my 3 ton jack is too big to fit anywhere on the right rear axle. So I was thinking about jacking on the pumpkin, used to do this all the time, but I have heard some bad stories about damage to the pumpkin/axle on the newer Cherokees from jacking, and didn't know if they were using the same rear end in the Dakota. So I played it safe and finally just used the jack that came with the truck.

Anyone else have this problem? Where did you put your jack?

Thanks,

Don

spike50

I've rotated my tires (31x10.5-15) numerous times on the '00 (30K+ miles to date) and used the jack as depicted in the instructions without a problem. Although I'm not sure on this, I would think if the jack is applied to the "pumpkin" that it is either not strong enough to lift the whole back of the truck, or that it is dangerously close to failure, or just plan dangerous because of the ease of sliding off that pivot point.

I always loosen the lug nuts just before "getting air" under the tire on the way up since "rocking" a car off of the jack trying to loosen lug nuts put on by an air-wrench. On the way down, I tighten them the best I can, then set the tire "lightly" on the ground before the final torguing.

nwdodgeguy

Hey all. So since I last complained about my tranny problems (fixed by dealer), my Dak has been performing wonderfully! I'm almost at 23K and not a problem since the dealer.
Still, answer me this......why is there no "recirculating air" feature on this truck. My friend with a 96 Cherokee doesn't have it either. The vents/air cond suck in all the evil pollution that is in front. Only way around is to shut off the vent entirely.
Not a big deal until I get behind a diesel, crap car smoking, or run thru a skunk.....and I've done all 3.

ritzoid

The recirculating air feature is cleverly disguised as the "MAX" settings on the climate control panel. You have two choices -- panel air or bi-level. Hope this helps. Regards, Steve

ford_bii

Speaking of the re-circ settings, when I have mine set to re-circ, there is a loud roaring from the right hand side of the cab coming from the dash. I know that re-circ is usually a little louder because it is pushing more air, but this is really loud.

Does anybody else's sound like this?

bobs5

Yea, it is loud. Normal.

bmwjoe

The fan will be louder with the control on MAX. When the fan is bringing in fresh air you only hear the noise of the fan exhaust. When you select recirc (MAX) then you get the intake and exhaust noise. The fan in my 1998 dakota is very noisey on this setting. I beleve it is normal. A poor design job IMO.

Drive Safe,

Joe

ford_bii

I agree, must be poor design. It's the loudest re-circ I've ever heard on a vehicle, by far. And the air still doesn't blow that great even with all the noise. Man...

judithb1

Just bought a 1998 dakota, v-8, auto, 4x4, but it sat for a week after we bought it. Now it seem to have trouble staying "lit". When I first start it, if I take my foot off the gas, it cuts off. Then finally, after on the road, when I slow down at an intersection, or brake, it cuts off. Tell me where to start looking for solution to this problem first, please, before I get ripped off by a mechanic.
Thanks.

hasel

I had similar problem with my 1999 Club Cab and found it to be a bad Battery, truck would start but would not keep running.

jed27

My wife and I are looking into purchasing a used 1998 Dakota Club SLT/Auto/2WD with 38,769 miles off DickSmith.com in Columbia, SC. My question is that the dealer is actually having it sent down to his dealership and will be bringing it to us on Tuesday to look over and make our decision. Does anyone have anything in particular that we should look out for? And, if anyone wants to look over at that website at the details-do you think this might be a good move price wise for the that truck?

spike50

After 28K, I began to notice the pop in the steering wheel and heard it when applying the brakes coming up to a stop sign and then upon pulling away. Other times it occurred when making turns. First I tried to stop it by "lubing" all of the rubber bushings by spraying them with Lithium grease (applied externally). This made a mess but the problem persisted. I then focused on the front sway bar. I loosened the "U" brackets on the sway bar ends just enough to slide stout wire (former stainless steel CB antenna) between the bar and the rubber bushing. Applied the lithium grease and reassembled. Popping still occurred. I then loosened the two brackets that attach the sway bar to the frame and by using the "wire method", I got grease between the bar and rubber bushing. The popping disappeared.

WARNING - It appears that the best solution would be to completely remove the sway bar and lube the inside rubber surfaces and then reassemble. During my short-cut procedure, I was always concerned that the "loaded" sway bar would cut lose and either hurt me or be significantly out of position for easy reassembly. Be careful.

My next project will be to modify those two frame brackets by tapping in grease fittings. I plan to drill a hole through the rubber to connect to a system of groves I'll cut into the rubber at the rubber / sway bar interface. This should allow for frequent and easy lubing at the right spot. BTW, I got this final idea from an Energy Suspension advertisement. Their urethane components are designed with this grease fitting system.

bpeebles

(spike50) Sounds like your persistance paied off and you found the source of your "popping" noise. I wonder if the anti-sway bar will also perform its job better with less friction in the system.

I saw the same ad in "truckin" magazine. Those ureathane bushings have a groove around the inside-center to distribute the lube.

A couple of questions;
1)Are you going to use a rubber lube that does not attack and disentagrate the rubber bushings.
2) Have you tried lifting both front wheels off the ground? (put a jackstand under each of the the framerails) This may "unload" the swaybar sufficnetly to pull things apart without harm.

bpeebles

The rear end of my Dak was "hopping" to one side over bumps and xpansion joints. This was un-nerving at 70 MPH on the highway.

With 35K miles on my 2000 Dak, the original rear shocks were shot. There was a coating of oil on them that had been leaking out for some time now.

I installed Edelbrock Performer IAS (monotube) shock abserbers on my Dakota. The difference is noticable.

I first installed the rears since is is so easy to slide under the back of the truck and do it.
I went on a 200 Mile trip with just the Edelbrocks on the rear and I could not detect any "hopping" to one side. During accelleration, the rear wheels stayed in contact with the road instead of "hopping" all over the road as they were with the old shocks.

Today, I install the FRONT Edelbrocks. This really made a difference. There is virtually no "nose dive" when I hit the brakes and sharp turns are very flat. (no body lean)

I went out on some bumpy dirt roads and I cannot even FEEL the washboard on the road. The IAS really lives up to its desert-racing heritage.

tuvtest

In my experience, after rebuilding numerous front ends, the sway bar is not a "spring". it is not under compression. It will not change shape or pop out when removed. It unbolts and rebolts easily without concern of it not going back into position.

In regards to cutting grooves into the rubber, I would suggest against it. The durometer (hardness) of the rubber is low to begin with, and cutting it would weaken it even more. I have not priced the urethane bushings for this application specifically, but in the past, it seems that the price is reasonable enough to get the new ones and install them with lube. The urethane needs less attention over time then rubber as well. There are also brands out there that have graphite impregnated in the urethane to lessen the need for lube even more.

jhorl

bpeebles...Do you have a part number and price tag on those shocks. I'm having exactly the same problem at 30,000 miles. 41 psi on a lightly loaded truck probably dosent help either. Also how many beer project was it.
John

spike50

bpeebles - I asked the local Dodge dealer what they would use to lube the bushings. They said lithium grease. I didn't investigate further even though there might be something more appropriate.

bpeebles & tuvtest - It was weird, one side (passenger) of the bar stayed up and in contact with the lower "A" arm while I loosened that side's "U" bracket. At the same time, the driver side of the bar constantly pushed down on the "U" bracket with enough pressure that I didn't want to complete untread the bolts. This work was done with the truck sitting level in the driveway - no jacks.

Maybe there isn't a loading problem and I just chickened out. I don't have jack stands, etc. so if I get into trouble, I'm screwed. I got the results I wanted without too much trouble.

A while ago, I checked out the Energy Suspension website and they didn't have the entire set for Dak's. So absent that, I have no problem drilling a single hole through the OEM rubber and cutting in a single groove to distribute the lube to make sure that the dreaded "pops" stay away.

iowabigguy

spike50, I've installed a couple of sway bars in my time. What you describe is NOT normal. It almost sounds like the bar is twisted. If you do remove the bar lay it on a flat surface and it should be symmetrical. If it is not it needs to be replaces.
I would forgo the grooved bushing. If a ureathane bushing is not available I would purchase 2 new bushings from Dodge and install them with white lithium grease applied to the contact surface. I suspect the grease will last the lifetime of the truck. Just like everything else here this is just my opinion. regards, Rick

bpeebles

(jhorl)
Front = E3323DAL
Rear = E3423DAK

I did a LOT of research on shock absorbers and ended up with the Edelbrock IAS (monotube) shock.
They offer the IAS in a twin-tube design that costs less but this is considerd a 'toy' compared to the real monotube design.

Since the prices for the Edelbrocks seems to be the same within a few dollars everywhere I looked, I ended up ordering from a place that had lower shipping costs for me. ( www.shockwarehouse.com )

Since I installed the rears within an hour of taking the packlage from the UPS guys hands... then the fronts on another day, I did not even break a sweat installing them. I took my time and would say I took no more than a couple hours on each pair. (I was enjoying the quality time with my Dak ;-)

Removing the oid shocks perhaps took most of the time. (those bolts were TIGHT) I, of course, used my new torque wrench to install all bolts per the factory service manual specs.

jhorl

I've had the new front brakes on my truck for about 5000 miles now and I've noticed a slight pull to the right at highway speeds and on braking. Now that I think back, the pull may have developed just after installing the brakes. Rotors were Raybestos PG Rotors and pads were the ceramic ones also from Raybestos. Everything was torqued to specs, so I'm at a loss here....Any Ideas.
John

bpeebles

(jhorl) Quick test for dragging brakes.

1. Drive without touching brakes for at least 20 minutes.
2. Come to stop WITHOUT TOUCHING BRAKES

get out at carefully feel the lugnuts and wheels for "heat"
Also carefully feel the brake rotors for heat.
Check the brake caliper too.

Under "normal" conditions, the wheel, lugnuts and caliper should be no warmer than the body of the truck.

The brake rotors may be warm to slightly hot to the touch but you should NOT feel heat radaiting from them.

NOTE:
If your lugnuts/wheels are running hot to the touch, you may be needing front bearings soon because the dragging brakes have cooked the grease from them.

PS: This test is often best done on a highway with "rest areas" you can drive at 65 for a while and there is plenty of space to allow the vehicle to slow down as you approach a "rest area". Use the emergancy brake to come to a complete stop. (just the last few MPH) While holding the release lever out... the EMO brake can be treated like a normal brake pedal. This will only warm up the REAR brakes.

livnlrn

Completed the AC mods last week and got a chance to use it this week. Big difference, thank you. I ended up doing the same to Dad's Ram and girlfriends Ford. Why doesn't the factory do this? It cost $3 whole dollars or so. Thanks again.

bpeebles

You are very welcome.

Yes, you used less than $5 worth of parts to do this. But consider the LABOR to install the insulation properly. Then multiply that by how many vehicles that come off the assembly line. you should start to see how the beancounters at the factory can mess up a GREAT design by saving a couple hundred thousand dollars.