Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

ford_bii

Bookitty, great read. You forgot a step for Dakota owners with skid plates and no fumoto valve:

11a. Watch hot oil miss oil drain hole and shoot directly into skid plate. Watch oil 'shower' down out of skid plate through the thoughtful drain holes put there by the moron engineers at Chrysler.

dalav8r: I believe the oil gauge is correct, mine always reads at the top of the normal range. What'll really get you is when you're sitting at a stop light and it drops down below half...then go back up. I think my engine oil always reads slightly high as well. I change it myself. 6 quarts, and I let it drain well. I believe it is a common complaint.

Karen_S

Thanks for the laugh!

I'm sharing this with other hosts. :-)

gregp5

Boo,

Your right on the button, which is exactly why I don't change my own oil anymore.

Thanks for the laugh,
Greg

bpeebles

(dalav8r) Both items you mention are normal. The 4.7L V8 semi-hemi engine has a very hi-tech oiling system. Everyting from the gerotor oil pump to the hollow camshafts are different from what you are used to. Even the clearances between the moving parts are tighter than the 1960's engine this replaces. This all adds up to make for higher oil pressure to keep things lubed.

You want high oil pressure. It is the oil-pressure that keeps the oil pumped into all of the bearings and special hollow camshafts. (it is low oil pressure that is a serious problem) As long as you run the recommended 5W30 you will be just fine.

As for appearing to be overfilled. This is also 'normal' for the 4.7L. I have taken to checking my oil level immediatly after driving while all of the oil-plenums and both camshafts are still full of oil. It will be RIGHT ON the fill mark when checked at that time.

This engine holds 6 quarts and is a 'slow drainer' (hollow camshafts drain slowly)
Make sure that anyone that changes your oil understands these 'features' and provides plenty of time for it to drain. Otherwise, you will end up with over 6-quarts in your engine. (drain5 and add 6 = too much oil in engine)

nwdodgeguy

Normal. I have the 4.7L V8 and my has read right on the "high" mark since the get go. I brought up this concern a while back and posts said this is normal. I've had no problems with that part of the truck anyway :-) I laugh, sick to my stomach.
Don't worry about it.....

captcrunch

I took a tour thru my DC service manual and think that I understand this much about your MIL: the PCM in your truck interprets a missing or loose gas cap as a leaking evaporative emission control system and sets a trouble code that triggers the MIL. (The maximum allowed leakage is set at what would flow thru a 0.04-inch-diameter orifice, so an uncapped 2+-inch fuel filler is a massive leak.) The light should (already has?) go out after 3 "good" trips, which are defined as trouble-free operating sessions that begin with a coolant temp below 160 and see a temp rise of at least 40. So, if you have driven the truck far enough and let it cool off enough 3 times since you put the cap back on, the MIL should be gone.

dalav8r1

Thanks, guys...you've taken a load off my mind!

mtrialsm

Thanks for info, captcrunch, I don't drive it
every day, it should go out this weekend?
mm

jhorl

Am I understanding everybody correctly when you say you put 6 quarts of oil in the 4.7, if allowing a sufficient drain time? I usually end up putting in about 5 1/2 quarts to get the level to the full mark on the dipstick.
John

bpeebles

(jhorl)I cannot speak for everybody but I am telling you that I use the factory-recommended 6 quarts. (Hot engine, sufficent drain time allowed, proper-sized oil-filter)

My 4.7L semi-hemi V8 appeared 'over filled' on the dipstick from the factory... thus I assume this is how it is supposed to look on the dipstick under normal conditions.

henne

Ditto bpeebles

mtrialsm

Thanks for info, the MIL went out after 4 cycles
of trips.
MM

nwdodgeguy

So, quick question. I'm asking cause I'm too lazy to figure it out myself.
My truck is running well finally, tranny issues seem to have been put to rest.
I was thinking of giving the truck a suspension lift. Mabey just a few inches. Not for looks like most, but because I'm an avid hiker and tend to run up remote forest roads that I need more clearance for.
How would that affect my warranty (2001) and any recommendations on lift kits or installers?
Thanks all!

mrjake

Just wondering if anyone could give me the part numbers for the Quiet Stop pads for my 2000 4X4. I know many of you have gone with these pads, but the parts stores all seem to tell me they don't make them for my truck. Any info would help. I've also been told the same about the powerslot rotors?

hasel

PN# for the pads PDG820QS, put them on my truck two weeks ago and they work great.

decentman4you

#4264 of 4269 Brakes they work, but am engaging the antilock to much by decentman4you Sep 17, 2002 (02:08 pm)

Brakes they work, but am engaging the antilock to much! what could be the answer to getting the pedal pressure (my foot) down? other than stopping earlier?

     2001 qc 4x4 4.7 auto, limited-slip AWD 15,600 miles

2. Whats a good Brand of; Rotors an pads, to replace with as I still have the oem stuff for brakes on my qc?

3. is this the light & bulb http://www.pilotautomotive.com/pilot2be.htm

that you #4252 ahasher replaced the fog lights with? How much of a Difference are they compared to the oem lights?

  Thanks

 James, in Houston Texas

waynesan

My '01 4.7L,4WD,auto runs fine most of the time;
but if it's under a load: 1) rapid acceleration onto the freeway, or 2) the transmission downshifts going up a grade with the RPM's above 2500.
I use Union 76 gas, 87 octane. I've had it to the dealer 3 times. The first time they said nothing was wrong and sent me off. The second time I insisted that the technician ride along; he confirmed it pinged, contacted Dodge and found a bulletin and did a computer flash. The pinging stopped for about 3 months, but now it's back. Today, I brought it in for the 3rd time; they said everything was within ranges so try changing to Cheveron gas or use a higher octane.
Has anyone else experienced the above symptoms?
If so, how did you resolve it?

henne

Welcome to the club. I got the same treatment as you on this. After they did the flash it was better for a few months and when I asked them to flash it again, they said they had already done it, and Dodge wouldnt pay them for the second time. I could pay but I tried the Chevron thing instead. I bought a few bottles of Techron and put it in on top of the Chevron gas and after the first tank I noticed a difference and after 3 tanks (extra bottle in each)it was pretty much all gone. The only pinging I get now is the typical heavy load up a mountain type, then I do as the manual says and put in premium if I have a heavy load in the mountains and she purrs like a kitten.

It is annoying but im just glad it runs LOL....

Good luck,

Robert

henne

Well I introduced myself to my local dealer today. The inside black trim that goes around the inside of the window is getting wavey/ripples and the rear passenger 1/4 window is popping out at the upper rear of the little fixed window (Quad cab) and its got alot of wind noise and when I go through the car wash it pours water on the inside of the door and window. They ordered the parts, and will call when they come in. My truck has also started the popping noise coming from the front end again when making sharp turns. I guess I will get them to pull the front sway bar and lub the bushings again.

I hope this is all as I am at 28+k miles.

Robert

waynesan

Robert, thank you for your informative response. My service dept. also rcommended Techron.
It sounds as though the Techron/Chevron combo was effective, I'll give it a try. Thanks again.

dataguru

Hello fellow Dakota owners. They sure are great trucks, aren't they? This is a first time post for me so please forgive me if I mess up. I'm looking for suggestions to enhance performance for this 3.9L model? It lacks power and my regret is that I wished it was a 4.7L but, it was the last QC on the lot back in 2001. I have experienced the same engine stall problems, sudden surging on a steep grade with cruise control ON, squeaks and grunts with the power steering, MIL coming on with a bad gas cap seal, intermittent engine pings, poor paint quality from factory, etc etc as other owners have reported. But, can someone help me out with suggestions for enhancing performance on a 3.9L. Thanks in advance.
Bill

bookitty

Bill, the 3.9 engine while reliable, is not a performance engine, especially when considering that the Dakota is larger and heavier than an S-10 or Ford Ranger. The surging, is the transmission seeking the proper gear ratio, while trying to maintain the set speed. In a 5 speed transmission under the same circumstance, one must manually change gears to keep that speed. I haven't experienced the "squeaks and grunts" of which you spoke nor the engine stalling (I have the 4.7) and I guess I am fortunate that my truck runs well. I'm sorry that I cannot offer any advice regarding enhancing the performance of the 3.9 that would be financially practical (that eliminates turbo-chargers and expensive exhaust modifications). I would address some of these problems with the dealer and subsequently with the factory if satisfaction is not reached. Good luck.

Bookitty

blakdak

Bill, go to www.speedstweaks.net for 3.9 enhancements. Bernd, the owner, had blower on his and now experimenting with a turbo setup (twin turbo I believe). He has a lot of info posted. Speedtweaks specializes in go-fast goodies for the Dakota.

Earl

dataguru

Bookitty & Earl...thanks for your assistance, muchly appreciated.
I experience the very sharp/sudden surge of approx 1800rpm in 2 secs or less when climbing a grade at 80Kpm/50mph @1500rpm. It jumps to 3300rpm very very suddenly. At this point I set the Cruise control to OFF & the O/D to OFF. I think the kick-down from cruise should be more gradual and will check with the dealer.

I realize that the 3.9L may not be a good base to start from for enhancing performance but, thought the experts may have some low cost bolt-ons tricks. Someone locally in town mentioned switching to a K&N replacement filter or K&N FIPK kit, Gibson cat-back exhaust system, Granatelli (sp?) MAF sensor, and perhaps a larger throttle body. Are any of these worth the effort/cost? My budget for mods tops out at $1,000. Alternatively, I'm considering upgrading to the 4.7L and hoping for Dodge to offer the rumoured option of a HO 4.7L in the Dakota/Durangos soon. For towing, at least the installed 3.92 LSD axle helps out a little bit.
Thanks again, Bill.

glzr2

"I guess I will get them to pull the front sway bar and lub the bushings again". Is this the solution to the popping during sharp slow right hand turns?

henne

It was on my truck.

kevin112

i just bought a 98 dakota v-6 sport with a 4x2. what's with the k& n filters? can someone give me a quick rundown on the advantages of these filters?

henne

Is everybody still happy with the Bosch +4? I am thinking about replacing them in a few weeks. I have seen them for about 5.99 each. Anybody seen them for less?

Thanks,

Robert

ron35

henne - I have had the Bosch +4 plugs in my 2K 4.7 5 speed for about a year now and I am pleased with their performance. I got mine at NAPA for $3.99 when they had a special sale on. I found out that some NAPA stores are company owned and those are the one's that had the special when I checked at a different NAPA I found that it was individually owned and they did not have the special. Something else that is interesting is the Bosch website; if you look up a Dak 4.7 on the application chart for the +4 plug their will be no application shown. It used to be at this same site that you could look up a 99 or 00 Jeep GC 4.7 and it would show +4 plug #4418 however if you go there now it will not show that application. I have heard some rumblings that platinum plugs should not be used in the 4.7 but I know some people who have had them in for more than 2 years and love them.

Ron35

rotondim

As most of us who have the 4.7 and skid plates know the overall design of the skid plates leaves allot to be desired when draining the oil. A while back someone posted a replacement plug that had a short hose and a valve associated with the plug. The idea was to direct the hose down and open the valve, no more taking the drain plug out. If I remember correctly, from previous posts, the oil drained slower but I am willing to put up with this because of the convenience. Does anyone know where I can get this type of arrangement. I have been looking around but have been unable to find anything that would fit the bill. Thanks

henne

The Fumoto Valve is fantastic. It is a little slower but we are talking about a short time. By the time I have the oil draining, and have pulled off the filter, prefilled the new one and put it on, the oil out of the valve is just dripping. You can get it with and without the nipple. I have the nipple and I also have a short piece of hose coming off of it that I tuck on the skid plates so it isnt hanging down.

Get it, it is so much easier.

http://www.fumotousa.com/

Robert

bpeebles

(rotondim) You are describing the "FRAM SURE DRAIN" available at Wallmart in the automotive section. Make sure you get the one that fits the threads on your engine drain plug.

The Fumoto Valve mentioned above is another option... (but is not available from Wallmart.)

Options are good... you get to choose 8-)

rotondim

Thanks very much for the information henne and bpeebles. I had a system where I would wedge a piece of plastic between the skid plate and trans that would deflect the oil down through the hole in the skid plate. Something went wrong the last time though and I had at least 1.5 qts of oil flowing down my driveway. Not a pretty picture for sure. Thanks again. I will be buying one of these, no doubt about it.

glzr2

I haven't had to change the oil in Eda yet, but you prefill the new filter before screwing it on? Is that because the # of quarts recommended to "fill" does not take into account an empty oil filter? When I do have to change her oil, I'm thinking of trying the pop bottle approach.

I got my first door ding yesterday... actually it's not the door, but on the bed just before the gas door. It happened at work too and the person didn't even have the decency to tell me. That's ok because we have security camera's in the parking lot.... I guess I'm getting cared away, but it's the first ding.

urban3

It's a been a long while, but I certainly haven't forgotten where the experts gather.

1) What is a Bilstein engine flush and is it worth it?

2) What does throttle body decarbonization do and is it worth it?

3) To solve the well discussed steering column knocking problem, the dealer wants to replace a coupling (p/n 55357207AA) and shaft (p/n 55351208AB). Any comments or advice?

This is '01 QC 4.7 auto w/16K miles.

Thanks for your help.

henne

I just like to get oil to the engine as fast as possible. I only fill it about half way because any more than that, and it would pour out while you screw it on.

surffla1

Finally got around to changing out the rear differential fluid @ 17,000. Added Red Line w/the friction modifier already included. I was wondering how often I should change out the synthetic. Only thing I am "towing" right now are my two sons and a couple of surfboards. I'd love to keep this truck going a long time. 18K and no problems (including the brakes although I live in Fla.t Fla.). Still think this is the best looking truck out there! Graphite Quad-Cab, 2wd, Sport w/4.7 manual, HD, Tow, T&H. Avg. 17-19 mpg. depending on A/C use.

Was also wondering how many of you manual owners have replaced your transmission fluid with synthetic? Please provide as much info. on the subject as possible to this non-gearhead?

bpeebles

(surffla1) I am running RedLine in both axles, xfer case and manual tranny. It shifts better and gets better MPG.

I am not planning on changing the RedLine fluids for a LONG time.. perhaps after 90K miles. (40K now)

jhorl

jhorl

I'm also running Redline in all drivetrain components, including the 45RFE. I'm not certain what the life expectancy is for these fluids. I think on the 45RFE I'll change again in about 30k because I was only able to access about 6 quarts out of a 12 quart system.
John

mopar67

This past week, the hamster got a diet of MObil 1 5w30 and a Wix/NAPA oil filter.
THe changes in engine performance were obvious from the get go.
It starts easier now; I was getting just a hint of valve train noise now that is gone. The temp gauge runs a tad lower. At idle, the engine is much quieter. On road performance is better too, the engine feels more "peppy" (I use that term lightly since this is a hamster after all)

The two variables are the oil and the filter. Previously, I had the stock Zuki oil filter on there. THe oil used prior by the garage was Valvoline all climate 5W30.

Recall, these are almost parallel to the benefits I picked up in the Dakota when I made the switch to MObil 1 oil.

96g11

For the last few weeks, my 2000 Dakota Quad 4.7L has been taking about twice as long (crank time) to start. About 32000 miles on the clock and I did install the Bosch Platnum plugs at about 20000 miles. I cleaned the throttle body and have run about 3 bottles of injector cleaner throuth but no better. I have noticed that if I crank for just a few seconds, then stop and re-try, it will start right up on the second try every time.
Anyone else experience this trend? Any Ideas?
Thanks for the help, 96g11

amend1

Just an FYI for all of you. At about 28,000 the check engine light on my 2000, 4.7l, Quad cab came on. Went to the dealer the following week and they told me the powertrain module took a dump. They put a new one in and it's fine, although it was running OK anyway! Also just put new Pirelli Scorpion A/T's on. Seem to be good.

bookitty

George, when I had a similar problem, it turned out to be a loss of "prime" at the fuel injectors. If the pressure bleeds down for any reason (fuel injector seal, injector pump seal, etc.) then it takes some cranking to rebuild the pressure. If the engine is shut down for a short period of time, the problem does not emerge. At first, my inclination was to look for a one way check valve such as is utilized in diesel engines which traps the "prime" and allows easier starting. Then I found out that there was no check valve and had to look elsewhere. It was the seal around one of the injectors. This was discovered via a fuel system pressure test. This is all that I can offer based upon a personal experience. There may be another reason. Good luck.

Bookitty

mrjake

well I just turned 22k on my 2000 cc 4x4 4.7 and the check engine light just came on. Was just wondering if this is pre-programmed to come on about now to get me in the dealership? Truck seems to be running the same as always. Also, when I take it in, was going to have them flash for the rough idle right after start-up, but was concerned about the gas mileage getting even worse as I recall posts mentioning that this had happened. Any advice before I throw myself into the dealership saga? really don't want the mileage to get worse than the 12-13 mpg I get around town already.

spiket1

My 2000 Quad with a 4.7L is coming due for a radiator flush. Was wondering if any of you could share any lessons learned/techniques that would be of benefit.

Thanks,

SPIKE

henne

I dropped off my truck for a few trim and window problems and they asked if I would like to also do my 30k mile maintenance. I told them I had done everything but the plugs already and would be doing them soon.

They pointed out that I need to stay away from the platinum type plugs, including the Bosch +4's. There was a guy picking his up after burning the crown on his pistons or something like that, cause fron the Bosch +4's.

He said he and another buddy of his had similar problems. The other guy used a different plug than the Bosch but it was a platinum plug.

Anyone have any experience with this?

I guess I am going to change them with the OEM plugs.

Any advice?

Robert

johnbigbootie

Just completed (almost) fluid/filter maintenance
on my Quad cab's 45RFE tranny.
Can't find a torque value for the pan bolts. Can
you help?
By the way I measured the fluid I drained and it was
9 quarts, not the 6 quarts I read about elsewhere.
At about $5/QT for ATF4 and $25 each for filters, this
is an expensive box to service every 30,000 mi.

bookitty

John, all I can offer is a standard torque value chart for various strength fasteners. Usually cap screws are marked for hardness and tensile grade. Try this site: http://www.armstrongtools.com/reference/storque.jsp

Bookitty

bcarter3

The torque for the 45RFE pan bolts is 105 inch lbs. The service manual says to service the transmission with 5 quarts and then add as necessary to prevent overfilling. That is the only reference I could find regarding quantity for a filter change.

Dick(^-^)