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Chevy Suburban Electrical Dies While Driving and Stalls

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Comments

  • mg2013mg2013 Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 1997 Suburban C1500. While testing the brakes, hard braking the suv stalled.
    Tested this about 3x at about 35 mph, stalled everytime, but cranked right back up. The suv is equipped with a trailer brake controller. If you've experienced this or a similar issue your response is appreciated.
  • balan1balan1 Posts: 2
    No, I still have not been able to get help with this issue. I have had people suggest going through a refactoring. This is supposed to update all the electronics in your car. Not sure how much it costs or if it is even possible. Very frustrating that not even a Chevrolet dealer knows what the heck you are talking about but it is definately a real problem. Any luck on your end?
  • adiemadiem Posts: 2
    no we still did not find a sollution we had it back at the dealer ship 3 times for the problem.they fixed everything else but the problem.we just got it so the dealer fixed it under warrenty but did mention they put over 6000 in it but it stills does it.I almost got rearended twice due to this problem.what the world is going on.
  • adiemadiem Posts: 2
    Hi,I am the one who posted the problem with my 2004 suburban.it would stall when starting from a dead stop.well we figured out the problem so I hope the guy with the problem check this out.they replaced the brake module do to it being cracked and rusty which later detected that the problem was the hub bearing was splitting apart causing the sencer to act up.it was sending faulty messages to the computer as if we were sliding.Now it runs great.Hope you can get yours fixed also but I suggest getting these items checked.If the module isnt working right it will not pick up the right problem..God Bless
  • Our 2002 Burb Z71 suddenly started stalling while highway driving at 125K miles on the odometer. No warnings, no odd sounds or vibrations... just stalls. We coast to a stop and it restarts and usually continues on without incident. The stalls are erratic... sometimes we've been driving interstate for 4 hours and it stalls, then restarts and continues for 4 more hours driving. Other times, it stalls every 15 minutes while driving. Is it electrical or fuel and why isn't it consistent? There's no rhyme or reason. No codes are evident to the repair shop. They replaced the Crank Shaft Sensor, but we stalled again after driving 250 miles. Air filter has also been replaced.
    How do you troubleshoot something like this when its occurrences are unpredictable and without a code? Wow... makes us hesitant to take it on a trip for worry it will decide not to restart in the middle of nowhere. I have read all the blogs relating to suburbans stalling and have not found a solution. Ideas?
  • I had a similar problem that we solved. Thought I would post it here... it may help some of you.
    I had the same problem with my 05 Suburban 175000 miles. It first stalled pulling out into traffic a week ago, left turn, dead stall, no stearing, traffic coming - scary. I was able to get out of the way. It started right up. Ran fine for a day. Then did it again. A day later again. I learned to shift to neutral and crank it while rolling, so I could get out of the way. A couple days later I noticed it was only on left turns. I went to two dealers and two repair shops. No clue. "only on left turns?" no way. It would have to be a wire short. They didn't have time, I was traveling out of state. The car was still going "straight and right" just fine... so I drove on. then I hit a big bump in the road east of Tulsa, and it stalled, but didn't die. 10 miles later it did it again. I'm in the middle of Oklahoma, and it is getting worse. Finally, I'm in walled in construction zone, no shoulder, concrete sides, 10 miles of it, and it dies completely. I shift to nuetral and it won't start. It tries, but won't. Guages are dancing around like crazy. I'm coasting to a stop, 10mph, and there in front of me is a hole in the concrete barrier that I ease through out of traffic. I get towed to a shop and they start pulling on wires. By this time, the car has cooled and it is starting and running fine. For some reason it was worse hot. They notice on a bunch of wires that run down behind or beside the power steering pump and under the car, that the car will stall if they pull on those. So they slide under and take of the skid plate and disconnect all those wires and pull them up for examination. We cut all the tape off, and examine them. The two little wires going to the lower AC switch have a kink and a worn spot, one has the plastic off for an 1/8 inch and the wire is exposed. We taped them up... saw no other bad spots, shook our heads, shrugged and put it all back together. For some reason on the left turn and later when it worsened, on a bump, the rub got worse and worse and then shorted out completely (when it was hot) The AC was working fine, there had been no engine light codes, but this surge / short had caused the stall. It is working fine now... we just drove 200 miles with not one stall. It had gotten so bad that it was stalling every left turn and most bumps in the road. It took 1.5 hours to pull all the wires out, and put it all back. No parts necessary. Hope this helps. Western Auto in Atoka OK - Great guys! thanks!
  • tuburbantuburban Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with my 2004 Suburban. Did you ever find out what was causing the problem?
    I know this is an old post but I went through it with my O2 Chevy suburban I thought it might be the camp a sensor or the cam sensor but it turned out to be the transmission so I ended up replacing the transmission problem solved strong runner pulls hard needs nothing
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,005
    Sounds like you had a torque converter issue?

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  • 9horsegal9horsegal Posts: 2
    I have 2004 Suburban with 8.1L engine, currently 55,000 miles, very low mileage for a 13-year old. Car has been shutting down to engine barely running, very very rough, 'reduced engine power' read-out on dashboard. This has happened at low speed, generally when braking/coasting to a stop. The first time it happened, mechanic replaced fuel sensor parts (don't know the details) and the gas cap. All was fine for a few weeks, then same thing happened again. This time the alternator and battery were replaced. All was fine for a week or two, and then last week it happened again. Each time the dashboard reads 'reduced engine power' (duh!) and the yellow 'engine' light on dashboard comes on.

    The car re-started after 10 minutes and drove home, about 3 miles, without incident. We turned off the car in the driveway at the house and when we tried to re-start it, it re-started when the ignition key was turned to the first 'accessories' position. We turned it off, then we tried again and it again started at the 'accessories' position. We let it sit for an hour and it re-started and ran in the usual manner, full power, no problems. We have not driven it for a week, it has been sitting in the driveway. We went out and started it a few days ago, started and engine ran fine (depressing the accelerator, no hesitation, no read-outs, etc.). Then we tried again a day later, car started just fine, but yellow 'check engine' light was on, no other read-outs, no problems. This morning we started it to move it to another area of the driveway and it was completely fine, no 'check engine' light, no read-outs, car started and ran as usual..

    This is an intermittent problem, and I am afraid to drive it, don't know when/where the engine will lose power. Can someone here please give me a few suggestions?
  • 2003 suburban, 150,000 miles, same issue on long trips. It will lose power, sputter and then die. After I cycle the ignition key a few times, it will start back up and I will be good for another 100 miles or so. After many repairs and troubleshooting, I think I found the fix we have all been looking for....Check your ECM connectors. When I bought this suburban years ago, the first thing that I noticed were the corroded battery terminals, so I cleaned them up and replaced the dying battery. It seems that the previous owner had let it stay corroded like that for so long that the corrosion spread throughout the wiring harness and corroded the connectors on the ECM. Just joined, so once I figure out how to post a pic...I will. Until then, check your ECM connectors. Mine were bad corroded. I am driving 600 miles this weekend, so I will report back and let you know if it fixed the problem.
  • 9horsegal9horsegal Posts: 2
    Hi Metallhead79.. Thanks for the info. I have not had the problem at highway speeds, it has always happened at low speed, while braking/coasting to a stop. I forgot to mention that when I had a problem a few weeks ago with the same 'reduced engine power' and yellow 'engine' light, it was determined that the alternator needed to be replaced, along with a new battery (I had to be towed to the shop). So, it has a new alternator and battery and everything was fine for 10 days until I suddenly again experienced 'reduced engine power..' It does appear to be an electrical issue, and perhaps some kind of short may have burned out the alternator...?
    I thank you for your help, and I will let the mechanic know about possible corrosion on the connectors on the ECM (it is now in the shop). I hope your trip goes well, and I will look for your follow-up post next week.
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