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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab



  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Nick, you are right on the money. However, most Neons are transported on or in coal cars. It is a result of a D/C accounting department saving suggestion. The coal dust is brushed off of the vehicle at the dealership and used to stuff the seats. Rick, please ease yourself into the seat in order not to create a dusty interior.

  • tuvtesttuvtest Posts: 237
    And no smoking, otherwise with all that coal dust, there'll be some serious glowing going on!
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    Does that mean I can't consume copious quantities of baked beans prior to driving??? Probably rules out beer and hard boiled eggs too!Must be why the Neon is My wifes and I get the Quad! coal dust!!!!

    Speaking of Quads I was talking to my dealers guy that orders the vehicles yesterday. He says that the Durango is going to change but the Dakota will continue on. You don't know who is really right about the Dakota's future but logically it would be giving up a whole market segment. Then again GM did that with the full size rear wheel drive Impala. Gave away the taxicab, police car and snowbird market to Ford.
    I don't want the Dakota to go away! I want a 2 wheel drive Quad Cab R/T with a 5.7 Hemi and a 6 speed. I want to kick Ford Lightning and Dodge SRT-10 butt. Rick
  • Received my special ordered '02 Quad SLT+, with 4.7L, 5spd,3.55LSD, 4X2,hndling pkg ( comes w/flares now),hvy dty serv, towing pkg, RAZ stereo w/Infinity sound,pwr overhd conv,rr wndw def, ordered ARE tonneau ( thanks Bookitty), ended up trading in my '98 dak club cab, used trucks aren't selling in San Diego right now.The dealer has it for $14,999.00 and I was asking $10,500.00 before trading it in, but got the new one with $2,000 rebate on top of $200 over dealer inv. looking to add nerf bars probably smittybuilt stainless steel.
    picked up 04/09/02 now have almost 700mi, so far gas mi is 16-18 combo ( mainly freeway 65%) real happy so far but I was happy with '98, just needed the extra room and door's. A friend at work bought the Tacoma 4 door and he has 4,000 mi and averaging 15-16 mi/gal, so naturally I tell him He could have had a V-8 !!!! LOL
    The only problem so far is 2 bad spots in ext body paint, 1 on drivers door, 1 on rr pass door. appointment Monday to get fixed.
    sorry for the long post, been having too much fun driving, keep the good info coming.

  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Lee, sounds like a great truck, but you did not mention the paint color. Good luck with your well equipped mount, and I am certain that you will like the A.R.E. tonneau.

  • joehoejoehoe Posts: 37
    Appreciate the forum - Long Time Lurker...

    The following link reinforces most of the latest (and most logical) rumors of the anticipated redesign.

    I held off selling my '93 CC for many reasons. Mainly because it has been so reliable! I bought it new back in Oct. '92. - when the Gen II body style was introduced.

    Oldest son will start 1st grade this year - frees up a monthly truck pmt that was paying for his preschool.

    So I pretty much have all my options in mind for the new '03 QC - still debating the color...

    Really have enjoyed the Flame Red - wife also has a Flame Red Durango

    But that deep Navy blue is very appealing.

    Maybe it's for the better that DC isn't drastically changing the Dakota again so soon. They get too many new things going on - they are likely to lose something in the chaos.

    Another thing - I bought a new home with a 3-car garage - The Dakota CC (or QC - same wheelbase) fit perfectly lengthwise - front to back - with enough room to open the tailgate and unload cargo (well - groceries... most of the time.)

    Be Real - Drive a Dakota

  • Color is White, I still need to post pic's of old and new dak's.
    will do this after new one is dressed properly !! with all the goodies. Will be adding K&N drop-in and 3" dynamax cat back. also going to do the intake mod with either abs or stainless steel tubing. Bed liner is going to be Line-X over rail, '98 dak had Arma over rail, was very happy with Arma but no dealers in San Diego area now, so would have to travel to LA area,Line-X looks very similar so decided to go that route. Also going with after market side mldg. had the after market on "98 and it worked great plus was the entire side of truck front to rear,not like factory that mainly deals with the doors. Well here I go rambling again. Talk to everyone later.

  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Lee, since you are contemplating installing an A.R.E. tonneau, check with the dealer as to whether the lid can be installed with an over the rail spray liner. I have a drop in, and my A.R.E. provider recommended only an under the rail unit. Boy, you are doing a bunch of stuff!

  • cetriscetris Posts: 13

    I have a 2000 QC 4.7/ Auto. I have noticed the same hump under carpet- roughly where the clutch pedal would be (if I had one). Dealer claims it is normal. It almost felt to me like the padding was wadded up under there or something.
  • I've talked to the line-x dealer and I'm waiting for the ARE first and then going to check on how to do the line-x. The spray on is only about an 1/8" thick so hopefully it will work. I had the Arma coating over rail on the'98 and it saved the top of the rail a few times. I've already had plywood in the back and broke the bed in with some rub/scratch marks. Thank's for the warning though on if the over rail will work with the ARE cover. I had the Arma done before the tonneau on '98 and didn't get the coating far enough down the outside so the seal on the Gaylord was riding against the paint ****. As for what I'm doing to the Quad except for the intake mod it will be the same as my '98 was equipped.

    Thanks for your input always greatly appreciated

  • blakdakblakdak Posts: 19
    Lee, I have the A.R.E. tonneau with over the rail Line-X and have had no problems. The A.R.E. installer use a double layer of foam tape and six (6) clamps. Four clamps would have worked but I wanted to use the extra clamps as tie-down points (works good). Hope this helps.
  • Thank's for the info, this is one of the reasons I'm waiting to do the line-x until after I get the ARE installed, then after checking how everything lines up will dictate how the line-x will be accomplished.

    This is a great info "line"

  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Lee, if you install the A.R.E. first, you must remove and then re-install the lid. blakdak claims that the tonneau may be installed over the spray in lining. My liner was a drop in, and the dealer said that they often shifted when attempting to install the lid. Makes sense. I am reasonably certain that the A.R.E. dealer or Line-X person can help you with advice to prevent the extra work.

  • Thank you both for the great info. I figure on watching them install the A.R.E. and talking to them about adjustment requirements after spay-on application, and will post results so others will have an idea of what they are dealing with. I've been in the Aircraft repair/ manufacturing field as a structural repair, assembly and now as an Inspector(23yrs total), so I'm pretty good at getting things to fit and work properly. That's one of the great things about these sites the wide range of knowledge and experience of it's members is fabulous. I've also spent time in the automotive service (mechanical) and parts departments.

    thank's again for the info and "Keep on Quad-in"

  • quark99quark99 Posts: 136
    I'm back...and you gotta be old to remember me..(see posts 0-50). I'm considering buying my 2nd Quad, and wondered what, if anything I should know from you recent owners. My old Quad was a 2000 Pat Blue 4.7L Auto 2wd 3:55 HD T/H Group, Tow, SLT Plus.....but had to sell when mama got her Mustang GT and my quad was destined to see 35,000-40,000 miles per year if I kept it. Traded it in for a Sentra (great car), but now we're buying a boat, and.....Anyway, I'm thinking Atlantic Pearl and buckets up front, but all else will mirror my 2000. Can anyone quote the actual tow capacity of a Quad with 4.7L, multi-speed auto, and 3:55? I can't find my old window sticker, memory says 4500 lbs..Dodge brochure is useless. I'm sure it's higher with the 3:92 rear.
    Hi Bookitty...thanks any and all.
  • tegwjtegwj Posts: 51
    I don't have a clinical answer but anecdotal stuff can help. I've towed my racecar (~4000lbs w/trailer) and somebody else's boat (~4500lbs) with my 4.7 auto 3.55 2wd QC without any difficulty. My trailer has electric brakes, the boat had surge brakes. Electrics felt better. I don't bother locking out OD and have never seen any temperature gauges show a reading other than what i get normally around town, even going uphill w/AC.

  • sunburnsunburn Posts: 319
    quark99, if I remember correctly, the 4.7/auto/3.55/4x4 has about a 4800 lb tow rating for the QC. The 3.92 is about 5800 lbs. I don't remember the 4x2, but it seemed like they were 200-300 lbs higher.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Skip, with the 4.7 and the 3.55 the maximum GCWR is 9,200# for the 3.55 and 10,500# for the 3.92. The "payload" with standard equipment and an empty bed is 3,250# for standard, to 6,350# maximum. These are combined trailer weight allowances. The 4X4 is slightly less (the weight of the other drive axle and drop box are factored in to that. You should be right in the ball park. Good luck with your new Quad. Good to hear from you.

  • been following along w/ you all for a while but never posted before. i've got an 02' QC sport 4.7L 4x4 5-speed, 3.92LSD. bought 11/13/01. currently 4,500 miles. has a clunking somewhere in driveline? dealer says normal rear axle slap?? no service needed. it sounds like dropping a nut in a metal bucket when both depressing and releasing clutch i think? seems like i can drive easy and minimize it but, if i drive normal its more consistent and noticable. i'm not sure if i'm being to picky 'bout my new baby! now its also developed a squeek or whine when pressing clutch. dealer says it needs a new clutch master cylinder. had to order it so now i have to take it back again. any one have thoghts on the clunking? i'm not convinced its the differential. sounds like it could also be the trans or drive shaft? any relation in squeeky clutch cylinder and clunking noise? guess i'll let them do clutch cylndr and just see if clunking clears up or not and go from there.
  • jebsdaddyjebsdaddy Posts: 52
    I have a 2001 Dakota equipped just like your drive train and it is very smooth with no clunks.
  • ford_biiford_bii Posts: 120
    My 5-speed clunks too. You can avoid the clunking if you are *perfect* on your upshifts, but it is nearly impossible to get rid of it during downshifts. I just hope it holds together.
  • eagleeye13eagleeye13 Posts: 29
    Got my Quad out of the body shop yesterday, they did a good job on the drivers door, but the rear rht pass door is passable !! Most people don't see the blemish so instead of risking "bondo" application I decided to leave it as is. Going to put the 3 pc bug defectors on this week end and hopefully the Smittybilt side bars. Smittybilt forgot page 1 of installation instructions. I e-mailed them thru their web site so hopefully they will e-mail the pg 1. The A.R.E Tonneau is supposed to be in next week. Had the after market side mldg installed tonight $80.00 covers from the front edge of front door's to the back "cap" of bed. Feel better now about parking in parking lots, my wife still laughs at me about my parking habits, then I remind her that the '98 didn't have any door dings when we traded it in, so I'll keep my funny habits. She doesn't mind when it's her car !!!!!

    Well over 1,000 mi's and all's well. Still averaging 16-18 mpg. Can't wait to get the dynamax catback and K&N filter see what happens, on '98 with 5.2L 19-20mpg at 65-70mph on open road. Quad rides great even the wife has noticed the difference from '98 CC.

    Have a great weekend to all !!!
  • maxwelwpmaxwelwp Posts: 5
    I recently noticed that when I start my truck for the trip home after work, the engine falter, almost to the point of quitting after I start it and the first time I put it in reverse. Never happens in the morning or any other time. Also just started during the spring around 60-70 degrees in MN now. Anyone else experience this or have any suggestions as to cause?
  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    I have that same problem. Had it with my 2000 4.7 auto and I have it much worse with my 2001 4.7 auto. Mine will acually stall when at a red light and when pulling out into traffic (can we say accident.) It does this a few times a week. It is going into the shop again for this and a increasing amount of pinging that has gotten so bad that i hate going up hill and cant tow anything because it sounds like the engine is gonna jump out from under the hood.

    Good luck and wish me luck.

  • mopar67mopar67 Posts: 728
    There is a TSB which addresses just that issue. Stalling on cold starts, occasional stalls while warm. It involves a flash update to the PCM. After I had mine done, no more 500 RPM near stalls nor did it stall out on a cold start like it did before.
    This TSB had no effect on spark knock as I always had a little before and after the flash. But the knock was oh so slight (in light of the other problems I had, I learned to let this one go)

    Let me know if you need the specific TSB....ahasher can also vouch for this same issue.
  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    I had that tsb done on mine about a month or so ago. No difference at all. I did however go to the dealer today to schedule my appointment on Tuesday and he gave me a can of B&G injection and combustion manifold cleaner (not actual name but the B&G part is right :o). I put it in the tank put about 4 dollars worth of fuel in and it brought me up to half a tank and after about 20 or so miles it has helped tremendously. I will still have them clean the combustion chamber and take care of the little odds and ends.

    Good luck,

  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    Oh Yea, My 4.7 auto has 15,000 miles. Kind of early don't you think, to have fouled combustion chamber.

  • ATF Fluid does it ever wear out? or that is if I dont drive my Dac too much should I change it more often presently 14K-miles 01 4x4 4.7 auto.. I asked the Service manager ( of the trans oil change an 'he' said wait till 20K ) when I was there at the dealership cause the bleeping! "check-engine Idiot light" came on and i spent the better part of the day to simply find out according to them that the gas cap was on too loose. I dont believe that... & Nerf bars or running boards ? which are better i want to Simply Avoid getting Door dings and i understand that they "bars" stick out further is this true? that when somebodys else's door opens that they will HIT the nerb bar?

    Then simply what brand or where to get them, Dealer or aftermarket?
  • hey all- i posted bout that clunking/ axle slap noise on my 02' QC 4x4 4.7L 5-sp 3.92LSD. i got one yes and 1 no! any one else know what this and what to do. i know how to drive/shift and its really pissing me off every time it clunks!!!
  • ferousferous Posts: 226
    I have the 4.7 5spd with the 3.55lsd and it's as smooth as the driver. Smooth for me, rough for my wife. Keeps her driving her GC instead of the QC.
This discussion has been closed.