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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab



  • tmatthewtmatthew Posts: 26
    2001 4x4 quad, 4.7, auto, lsd, 3.55. Have 40,043 miles. average 15 - 17 MPG with mixed rural and in town. I get the 17 when I drive like an old geezer, 15 when I lean into it a little. Two problems so far. Lost a battery at about 28K. Dealer replaced it for free. It is a crapp one but free is free. Just after my factory warranty ran out last month my stereo stopped working.I had the cassete model. Dealer stated it was shot and needed replacement. Of course my expensive extended warrenty won't cover it. I wont due that again. So I had a nice Kenwood CD player installed, About $200. It is 180 watts and the stock infinity speakers handle it well. No other problems.....I have kept up on the owners manual maintenance......Lets hope she holds together for another 40K.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Bruce, interesting article, thank you for the link to the Post. Even more interesting is that the inventor of this engine, Rudolph Diesel committed suicide by jumping off of an ocean liner. He considered himself as well as the engine; a failure. Initially, he experimented with coal dust prior to trying coal oil (kerosene).

  • kevino40kevino40 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 dakota that makes a clunking noise when i make a tight turn, told dealer they greased the bushings helped for a short while but returned, truck also sounds like one of those ( covered wagons ) that you see in the westerns maybe bad shocks need some suggestions
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (kevino40) If you still have the original shock absorbers... they are shot. I installed Edelbrock IAS performer shocks on my 2000 Dak and it is SIGNIFICANTLY better. (ride, cornering and stopping.)

    As for the other issues you have, the upper balljoints are a known weak spot on the 2000 dak. One of mine got pretty squeeky and I replaced with a GREASABLE "Moog" balljoint.

    I am sure you are aware that the front antisway bare bushings are known to squeek.

    Be aware the the front brake rotors may need attention soon too. Mine rusted terribly after 2 Vermont winters (roadsalt) I installed some powerslot rotors and the braking is much better.
  • Has anyone besides Click & Clack commented on the fact that the mirrors on the 2000 Dakota are just too big? I have a 2WD QC SLT with the remote heated mirrors, and while they don't give me too much trouble (I'm 6'1") my wife refuses to drive the truck since so much of her critical viewing area is obscured by the mirrors. I know they down-sized the mirrors in 2001 and I'm wondering if I can replace the mirrors with either Mopar or after market. I don't need to keep the heat function but power would be useful still.

    Any thoughts??
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    If they didn't change the mounting base pattern from the 2000 vintage, the newer style would probably fit right on. Hopefully, the electrical wiring would be the same.

    By the way, after this icy winter the heated side mirrors was the one thing I'd wish I had on my Dakota.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (time2little) The 2000 Dak was available with at least 3 different mirror styles. You must have orderd the unfamous "elephant ear" mirrors.

    Personally, I orderd the standard mirrors. Although I felt they were too small at first, I have learned to back up with them just the same.
    (I have a cap on my tuck and cannot see behind me any other way)
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    I ordered and enjoy the larger (6X9) powered mirrors. I would have opted for the heated version, except that I wanted the sliding rear window. The slider was not available in 2000 in the heated mode, and the heated (fixed) rear window was required in order to have heated mirrors. I wanted it all, but took what I could get (matter of priority). As we are building a home in FL, selling our PA home and spending the warm months at our NJ beach house and the winter in FL, the heated mirror issue has solved itself. I really like the larger mirrors, as I am used to using only the outside mirrors, and they come in quite handy when towing the 5X8 HD utility trailer.

  • ferousferous Posts: 226
    The 6x9 mirrors are worth every bit of extra $60 for the option. I ordered them with the tow package option because I often pull a utility trailer or my pop-up camper. I am now upgrading from the pop-camper to a 21' travel trailer, and I'm glad I have the bigger mirrors.
  • traumagastraumagas Posts: 64
    hello all
      Has anyone seen a quad cab pulling a 5th wheel trailer ? I want a 5th wheel trailer utility, I know I can get a box type utility but like the look of the 5th and the ride and pulling characteristics of
    the 5th wheel. Also I know the towing cap of my 4x4 4.7 3.92 rear end quad. I know those ratings are rated for stopping. Would you guys think a trailer with elect 4 wheel disc brakes would allow little more towing capacity? The truck has the HD tow pkg
     Whats your take on this ?
                      Thanks Jon
  • ferousferous Posts: 226
    First of all the manual states that the QC should not pull a 5th wheel. You really can't attach it over the axle and still be able to turn.

    As far as towing, I have done a lot of towing with my QC. I have pulled utility trailers, pop-up campers and now I have a new camper that weighs around 3,400 lbs loaded. My 4.7 5spd 3.55lsd with P215-75R15 tires pulls it just fine. I have a Prodigy brake controller and added Air-lift air springs to the rear of the truck. The biggest weakness I found was the rear springs, but the air springs have really helped that problem.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    My wife and I are currently on the road flat towing her 1999 Jeep Wrangler behind my 2000 4X4 Dodge Quad cab with 4.7, 5 speed and 3.55 rear(s). We left Eastern PA yesterday afternoon and overnighted in Christianburg, VA (south of Roanoke). We took the PA turnpike west to I-81 south. Lots of hills, trucks who get into the left lane and suffer diesel failure, and a bunch of folks who think that the turn signal lever is an accessory for storing rubber bands. The Quad was in fourth gear for much of the time in order to maintain highway speed. This morning we drove from Christiansburg to Hickory, NC. We are here shopping for furnishings for our new home in Punta Gorda, FL. That is the next leg of our trip. The Quad performed without flaw. It is going easier than I imagined insofar as the towing. I have never flat towed a vehicle this kind of distance, but we learn new things everyday, even at age 70.

  • traumagastraumagas Posts: 64
    Thats a shame about the 5th wheel, I understand the box being in the way of turning. The trailer I am looking at has a v nose for decreased wind resistance The hitch is in the end of the V. I plan to park the truck in all positions Almost jackknife before purchasing the trailer.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
    "...and a bunch of folks who think that the turn signal lever is an accessory for storing rubber bands."


    Hope the rest of your journey is safe and pleasant!

    Edmunds Manager UGC Click on my screen name to send a personal message. Need help navigating? Check out Getting Started in Edmunds Forums.
    Need help picking out a make/model, finding inventory, or advice on pricing? Talk to an Edmunds Car Shopping Advisor

  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    I met a guy a few months back that had QC pulling a 5th. He had a slider hitch and said it was the best money he spent. He was so happy to finally be pulling a 5th than towing a regular rv trailer.

    When he gets to a place he has to make tght turns, he pulls a lever and the slider hitch slides backwards to allow room between cab and 5th and when hes done he backs up and puts the lever back and the slider is back into position.

  • I have a 2001 quad cab, 3.9, 5 speed with 60,250 km on it (250 km over the warranty!). I haven't had any problems at all with it. Driving down the highway at 110 km/hr 2 nights ago all of the 6 lug nuts on the rear drivers side came undone 1800 km (1000 miles) after they had been installed by the dealer (had changed my winter tires to summer). I had heard a kind of faint howl from the back at about 130 km prior to the mishap. I had pulled over about 100 km prior to the mishap and looked over the back end and didn't notice anything. Unfortunately I hadn't looked at the lug nuts. It was also quite windy so I rationalized the occasional vehicle drift/wobble and howl as a wind effect. All nuts finally came off and I managed to pull over onto the shoulder before the wheel fell off (the rim is aluminum).

    Between towing, repair (by another Dealership since I was out of town) and the cost of a new rim I'm out $900. The dealer insists that if he had not installed the wheels properly that they would have fallen off within 100-200 km after installation and that the other 3 wheels are OK. He figures that one wheel has been tampered with however I know that the vehicle hasn't been anywhere where this could have happened. The only concession I'm being offered is that he'll give me a rim at his cost plus 10% and install and balance the wheel for free. Whippee!!

    The dealer said that they torqued the nuts using a torque stick at 100 ft-lbs. My question to him was how often do you calibrate them and his reply was they cost $400 so I know they work.

    Any ideas for recourse????

    As an aside can anyone explain how a torque stick works? When I looked at it, it looked like a drive extension and socket made from 1 piece of metal. I saw no moving parts. I don't understand how the air gun gets feedback to limit the torque.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (mikeintoronto) I am so sorry to hear about your mishap. Are you aware that any alumininum wheels should be RE-torqued after some miles?

    I always torque mine to 90ft/lbs .... then after about 50 miles... I RE-torque them to 90ft/lbs again.(The spec on my Dak is 85-115ft/lbs)

    I am not familear with a "torque stick", I am aware of several different types of torque wrenches. (needle-gauge, clicker and digital-readout.) I use the "clicker" type which is priced right in the middle. (around $50 USD)

    To use the "clicker" type of torque-wrench...
    I twist the handle which tightens a prececion spring. There is a calibrated scale on the handle that tells me when I have reached my desired "setting". Now, when I use the the torque-wrench to tighten a fastener, when the "setting" is reached, there will be an audable CLICK that tells me that the desired torque is reached. This makes for fast, repeatable torque on multiple fasteners. (Virtually all good mechanics use this type)

    The needle type is the least expensive... One just looks at a needle that will point to the amount of torque that is being applied to the wrench. It is not any less 'accurate' than the 'clicker' type... it is just slower to use because one has to LOOK at the needle while using it. The repeatability of torque settings with this type is harder to acheive.

    The "digital" type is really just a gimmick (in my opioion) It consists of an 'extension' to a standard ratchit that has some wires coming out of it... the end of these wires are plugged into a digital meter which displays the torque. Although this may be cool-looking... it is not very practical to have to carry a wrench AND a meter around... you then have to LOOK at the meter while using this cumbersome assembly. Repeatability is also reduced.

    All 3 of the above torque-wrenches are available at Sears.... (do you have Sears in Canada?)

    Your question about CALIBRATION is a very good question indeed. The instructions with my torque wrench mention annual verification of the calibration. (If it is dropped.... it must be immediately removed from use until re-calibrated.)

    Your dealers response to your inquery about calibration is just plain stupid. (Costing $400 does not make a tool immune to innaccuracy!!) (I work with $250,000 machines that need daily calibration)

    BTW.... I have asked tire-installers about the last time their spin-balancing machine was calibrated.... (This machine tells them how much weight and where to put it around the perimiter of the wheel to bring it into balance.)
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    kevino40 - Before you replace tie-rod ends, etc. look at lubricating the rubber suspension related bushings fore & aft. My '00 started making all sorts of bushing related noises in the second year of ownership. These were all of the "classic" noises described in numerous posts over the years: slow speed hard turn and slow speed rough road. I went all over this thing and loosened each bushing bracket (individually) and shot some lithium grease. At times, I needed to slide a thin stainless steel rod (former CB antenna) in between the bushing and sway bar to open a channel to introduce the grease. I also shot grease in between the rear leaf springs (plastic sliders need to move) and the leaf spring's rubber bushings that attach to the frame. Success, but I have to do it again this summer.

    I'm trying to "design" an easier way to lube each of these points without so much work. I've also researched the possibility of replacing as many of the black rubber bushings with urethane but it seems these are not available.

    The source of your noise problems may be completely different from mine (bad shocks, etc.) but this is what worked for me.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    time2little - My '00 has the 6x9" heated mirrors and I love them. My only problem has been that the heating feature has stopped operating. The driver's side was replaced under warranty (really didn't research what caused the problem) but the other one just stopped now.

    I've got out BOB and will look for electrical tests I can perform. If I'm unsuccessful, and you want to sell yours - let me know.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    Had the inside cover of the door off today to run my electric tests. It appears that the element went bad (although there was continuity the resistance was very high and out of spec). Called the dealer and they do sell replacement glass for the 6x9's heated at $32 (ordered). I think the whole mirror assemble is around $200 so this is good news.

    Latter on the results.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    Installed the new glass today. Too bad that the glass is so thin, because it's junk once you pull it off. Any minor twisting causes it to crack in multiple areas but the glass stays affixed to the backing and doesn't create a clean-up problem.

    New one snapped right in but I put some dielectric grease on the heater terminals. I did this because once the old mirror was out, I ran the resistance check described in BOB, and it passed (6-8 ohms). So the heating element was still good but the contacts had enough corrosion on them to stop the heating function. Too bad that there wasn't a way to get to the contacts short of replacing (destroying) the original glass portion of the mirror at $33.
  • ferousferous Posts: 226
    Don - thanks for the updates on your mirrors. It's great to learn these small lessons from each other.
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    Time for me to bid farewell. My Quad is gone in a few hours, leaving because of my bad clutch leg. I'll hate to see her go. She has been the most trouble free vehicle I have ever owned. I hope her replacement can fill her tire tracks. I'm picking up a Ram 1500 Quad with a Hemi and 5 speed auto, 3.92 posi and 20" wheels. What a GAS HOG!!!, on board computer showed 12.5mpg average on a gentle 23 mile test drive. But it is worth it because my leg doesn't hurt and I have a grin a mile wide. The power come on in a more refined way than the Dakota 4.7 5 speed manual combo. It almost feels like you are in a jet plane taxing down the runway except for the almost sub audible rumble of the exhaust. Now I have a garage full of excess Dakota parts. A full set of Blizzak snows on factory aluminum 15x8 rims. A brand new 255 65/r15 Goodyear LS tire on a 15x8 aluminum rim that was the spare on the Quad. A Leer topper as well as a bunch of air filters and oil filters and the famous BOB. I never realized how much support stuff accumulates over time. Guess I'll clean the garage and hit the online auction to clear it out. I need the space to start my collection for the Ram 1500. I'll still be around to keep up with the trials and tribulations of all my Dakota friends but more as a lurker. Good luck. Rick
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Rick, okay, so you're not driving a Dakota. But that is no reason for you to say goodbye. We have always enjoyed your insight and friendly humor. Like mopar67, you are not allowed to leave our group. I wish you the best with your new mount and hope that you will continue to post, as you now have an interesting comparison to write about. I do hope also that your leg continues to mend. Please! Stay in touch.

  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    Well the Monster Quad is in my driveway. I spent 1/2 an hour at the parts counter ordering the options I felt I really "needed". Ordered a set of wheel locks to try to keep the 20" rims on the Quad. No wheel flares so I had to get molded mud guards to keep the mud/crud off the side of the Quad. Got a rubber bed mat so Boomer, my Doberman could get traction when we went for a ride. I think I'll eventually get a Line-X spray in bed liner to keep thing pretty between the fender wells. Lastly a hat with the ram head and the word Ram on the front. I'm on the look out for one that has a big "Hemi" on the front. Got 67 miles on her (IT?) Hard to think of anything that massive as a her, maybe Monster Quad is an appropriate name for my new baby. Already bidding on a set of 17" rims on Ebay for the winter tire/rims. Those 275 55r20 Eagle LS tires may look good but I don't imagine they will work well in the snow. My BOB is now a little white CDRom, I do my reading on my laptop now. The laptop will even fit inside the storage area in the Premium seats. Will keep you informed as I get used to my new Quad and find the strengths/weaknesses compared to my little Quad. Rick
    PS How is the weather in Florida? The weather channel showed some monster thunderstorms earlier today.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Rick, your new mount sounds awesome. "Monster Quad" would do it for me. I noticed that you were going to look for 17" rims for winter usage. If the truck is equipped with 20" rims, wouldn't they afford more ground clearance in deeper snow? Does your truck have LSD? How much horsepower does the "baby" generate. Facts Rick, we need facts! The weather here in Punta Gorda (Florida West Coast 26 miles north of Fort Myers) has been hot, sunny humid and interspersed with some showers, but in general very nice. The weather in the Northeast has been horrible. The Jersey Shore has had rain every single weekend, and people are looking for ark blueprints. My younger son, Richie, was rained out of a local car show where he was showing his '62 Austin Healy Sprite. Our new home here in FL is beautiful, but we are staying in a motel as our belongings and other ordered furniture have not as yet arrived. I'm happy that you have chosen to continue on these threads.

  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    Bookitty. Have 202 miles on MQ now. About 60 miles city driving which produced 11.5mpg and the remainder running 55mph on 2 lane blacktop. 1/2 of the blacktop cruising was pulling a empty 1000lb trailer. Overall average mpg after this went up to 13.9mpg. The interesting part was pulling the trailer. When I pulled it with my Dakota Quad I could feel the drag and my MPG took a 1mpg+ hit. With MQ not only could I not tell I was pulling a trailer but the average MPG continued it slight average increase to the final 13.9 figure.

    MQ has 265 55R20 tires which are 31.8 inches in diameter. The 17" tires I intend to put on for winter driving are 265 70R17 which are 31.6 inches in diameter. They are so close the computer won't even know the difference.

    MG has the Hemi which is rated at 345 horsepower. It also came with 3.92 gears and limited slip as a requirement for the installed 20" rims. I would have preferred the 4.7 V8 but I bought from dealer stock. 4 wheel anti-lock brakes were a must for us. The only trucks that had this option had the Hemi engine as it is a mandatory option. None of the dealers in the area order any 4.7 V8 Ram 1500 or Dakota with anti-lock brakes since it is a $495 option. I did find one flaw after delivery. I have a small area of bad paint on the front fender which will be corrected when I return the truck for them to install my body side molding. I'm also considering some stainless steel nerf bars to help my wife climb into the cab. This truck makes a Ford Excursion look normal sized. The overall height to the top of the cab is 75" on my 2wd and the 4wd I looked at was 77". I had to use a small ladder to clean the center of the windshield and I'm 6'2". Well thats enough facts for now. I'll keep you updated as the miles progress.

    As long as you enjoy my rambling I'll keep contributing. Rick
  • mailman54mailman54 Posts: 111
    Rick, does the 5.7 Hemi require premium gas to get all that horsepower? Glad somebody finally got the Hemi so we can ask questions about it.

  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Now that's a truck!

  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    The paperwork with the 5.7 Hemi says for optimum performance 89 octane is suggested however it will run perfectly fine on 87 octane. The dealer filled my tank as part of the purchase and thats what was put in, 87 octane unleaded. Premium is NOT recommended. Rick
This discussion has been closed.