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Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab



  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    When those "poor resale value" manual transmissions in new trucks are sitting on a dealers lot, there's nothing wrong with them!

  • haselhasel Posts: 64
    I live in North Eastern New Mexico here most of the trucks are Stick Shift,
  • I've always preferred a manual myself, as I feel more like I'm driving the car or truck instead of just being along for the ride. IMHO, I think that any future trade-in money that I would save by having an automatic would be more than offset by the initial cost and the lower fuel mileage (especially since I figure on keeping the truck for several years if I get it). Tommorrow I'm off to pay a visit to another dealer to see what he can do for me. If I continue to get lowball offers on my car, I'm going to seriously consider doing a private sale of my car during the spring when getting a decent price will be easier. Thanks for the advice!
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    With the conclusion of deer hunting season (unsuccessful by choice), I can now wash all of the frozen mud, sticks and leaves off of the truck (from mirrors on down). BTW, the Bridgestone AT - Revo's got me out of some potential side-slipping door scrapers.

    My concern is that when I'm in 4W-Hi or Lo slogging along, the engine idle automatically increases from the normal (2W - road) 700 up to about 1,500 rpms. I have to modulate my forward speed by working the clutch (2000, 4.7L, 5sp). While under warranty (pre-36K), I did get the PCM flash to fix the stalling problem but never did any real "dirt-roading" until 40K-50K. This is the second hunting season that I've experienced high engine idle when I want to go "real" slow.

    Preliminary discussions with a service manager has not given me any comfort that they have a clue other than $. Any ideas?
  • well, our dakotas made headlines. Has anyone experienced the bad ball joints that they referred to on the news. Not the publicity that Dodge needs I'm sure- a dakota with the front wheel falling completely off????. -JD
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    This is OLD NEWS. A ball joint can get so bad that it breaks. This can happen on ANY vehcle with ball joints. The owners manual spells out a recommended maintenance schedule that includes inspecting the suspension regularly.

    I am not sure about your state but here in Vermont, all suspension parts are inspected annually. It is part of the manditory "Vermont State Inspection" and includes exhaust, emmissions and other items.

    I have replaced ONE upper balljoint on my 2000 Dakota. I used a MOOG brand balljoint that has a grease fitting. I have been keeping an eye on the other UBJ and it has not been an issue.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I have had a few Dakota owners tell me that they had to replace ball joints -- usually uppers, I think -- but I have yet to heard of one breaking.

    I don't know about the rest of you, but I noticed the day I bought my 2003 that the grease seals were flat as if there wasn't a drop of grease in them. It wouldn't surprise me if most of the failures were the result of insufficient lubrication from day one.

    After 36,000 miles I plan on installing zerks so I can grease them. Of course with my luck, the damage may already be done.

  • Question for everybody. I know our brakes are the worst, so when you replaced them (most people seem to have gone with Power Slots) what pads did you use? Some say the Quiet stops and some say stay away from them. Any suggestions since I have to replace mine now too?
  • Seems like a lot of people went with the Rayb Quiet Stops. That's good enough for me! What was the best local price you found B?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    First, I don't think Dakota brakes are the worst. I know people here have had varied results with brake performance, but the vast majority of people I've personnaly talked to have had average to above average results. At just under 20,000 I have already reached the threshold where our Avalon needed rotors. My 2003 Dakota has lots of pad left and the rotors are still chatter free.

    Depending on the year, of course, Dodge has used various rotor and pad suppliers and the quality did vary. This is not a unique situation in the industry. If you visit any of the truck and SUV forums you'll find examples of similar complaints.

    Now, that being said, there are aftermarket rotors that are of better quality. The question is, are they worth it. Depending on your particular driving that may in fact be the case. As to pads, I've heard mixed results from folks who have used various brands, and that includes ceramics. Although some are advertised as "liftime guarantee," not everybody appears to be happy with them for various reasons.

    Ceramics will give you a lot less brake dust but some claim that stopping distances are increased. This could be specific to the model vehicle (I've heard Suburbans and GM pickups don't seem to like them).

    I have looked at Powerslots and they look like a very well made rotor. I was impressed with the machining and finish quality. I know a fellow who uses them on his '99 Dakota with factory pads and he seems to be very pleased.

    Best regards,
  • haselhasel Posts: 64
    Stay away from the Rayb Ceramic pads mine started to fail at 10000 miles they where separating from baking plate, also the Rayb rotors are worse than the OEM, am now using Brembo Rotors and put the OEM lining back on, brakes are great.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    At 40K+ or so (can't remember) I too moved to the PowerSlots and Raybestos ceramics. The PowerSlots began to warp a little. I was unsuccessful at "heat-cleaning" them by riding the brakes a bit. An inspection of the brake pads revealed pits (missing chunks) in the pad surface. I replaced the ceramics with the old OEM's that were laying around.

    I still feel the warped PowerSlot rotors but its small. It's interesting to me that the significant brake dust problem I had with the OEM rotors and pads has not returned although I'm back to using the very same pads I removed. 90% of the past dirt problem must have been from the OEM rotors.
  • I have to agree with Dusty about the brake pads. I have a 2K Dak with 49K miles and my pads are about half worn if that. Also my original rotors are fine. I have had Kleen Wheel dust covers on since the truck was new so brake dust is not an issue.

  • Hey Guys hope all is well. I still read from time to time. I have a 01 QC 4.8 auto 4x4, sport. At 29kmiles not many problems just sqeaky front sway bar bushings that dealer replaced last summer. Sometimes hard starting when warm, but I just step on gas and it cranks up. Heater an isssue as my feet get cold sometimes. I drilled additional holes for more air (2) and helps a little. I can live with it vs. the alternative of dealer tech taking apart my dash.
      Anyways I was wondering if anybody could help with this question. I've always seen this but never thought to address it. In my front wheel wells I can see the brake lines and into the side of my engine. It seems to be lacking "mud" skirts that my other trucks have had. There are a couple of holes there? Are these to hang some type of plastic sheild?? If so, was this part of another package? possibly SLT? or was this cheapening after the 2000 model year?. Does anyone have part #'s?? Any help or input would be appreciated.
    Thanks, Tom.
  • spike50spike50 Posts: 481
    gtownguy - I can see the sides of the engine by looking through the top of the front wheel wells. When I go splashing around, I get mud up on the top surfaces of the engine / battery, etc. A better wheel well / engine bay partition might help but it wasn't part of the SLT package as far as I remember.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I know what you are talking about and I've wondered, too. I have to say, though, that I have never seen curtains on the current series Dakota or at least remember seeing them. Perhaps they were on the first years, on SLTs or 4x4s only. I know the hood silencer pad and front box panel gasket have been dropped, so maybe that's what happened to the curtains.

    A curtain wouldn't be hard to make.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I just checked my 2003 Club Cab and there are no holes in the inner fender (wheel well) liner for attaching a curtain to.

  • I have an early 2K Dak (ordered Nov 99) and I have the wheel well curtains. They do seem to provide some protection from the mud as I have pressure washed them to get the mud off from time to time. Sorry I have no idea what the part numbers would be.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Thanks! Just knowing the year helps. That's how I knew what to look for when I ordered the hood silencer pad and box gasket from my dealer.

  • Just had them put on my 2000 QC.....what a difference...should have done it a long time ago.
    Thanks for the recommendation guys!
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    I would like to take a moment to wish everyone and their family and friends a happy, healthy and safe New Year. Today I picked up my new FL plate. It reads
    "QUAD CAB."

  • Thanks for all the responses. I guess maybe the mud skirts were on the 99 and earlier models. Maybe I'll look in salvage yards for an older model and grab them off one of those vehicles.
      Dusty- I know what the hood insulation is, but what is the front box gasket? Is it needed? Does it provide a function? thanks. (also how much was the hood pad and box gasket?)

    Happy New year to All
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The hood silencer pad is Chrysler PN 55216161-AE. You will need a quantity of PN #6003351 fasteners. The cargo box seal is #55256943-AD and comes with the fasteners.

    The cargo box seal (box gasket) is a weatherstrip that attaches to the bottom of the cargo box front bulkhead. This strip closes the gap between the front of the box and the rear of the cab. Its primary purpose is to reduce road noise that gets into the cab through the rear cab vents. It was an SLT item only on older Dakotas.

    I cannot find the invoice at the moment, but the hood pad was around $70, I think. The box seal was around $24, if I remember correctly. Your prices may be slightly higher. My dealer gives me a discount on over-the-counter parts.

  • Been a long time since I've been on. Have a 2000 2wd 4.7L that has had a loud wind noise. I've
    used the trustworthy blue masking tape and sealed just about everything all around the windshield. Thru a process of elimination I have found the area where the wind noise comes from. Rubber gasket on top and sides. With making tape on gasket to glass not gasket to body, the noise completly disappears. Does anybody know of a service bulletin on this issue. I still have an open RO at the dealer for repair of several warranty items that the dealer rep is working on. The wind noise is an item on the list. Before my discovery, the dealer heard the wind noise but found nothing...surprise...surprise.

    Any TSB info you can share with me will be appreciated
  • Allen,

    Very interesting discovery by process of elimination on your part...Good work.

    I've always wondered why (starting in 2002 and later models) the long piece of rubber moulding between the top of the windshield glass and the body was eliminated. Perhaps, that's the reason? Now, after a rainfall, I notice the water just sits along the edge of the gap. I sure hope a rust problem does not eventually develop because of this change.

    Regarding a TSB, I haven't come across one on this subject as yet.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Over the years I have been in a number of older Dakotas and haven't noticed any wind noise from the windshield, so I know they all don't do that. I find it hard to believe for the moment that the full perimeter windshield gasket used on 2001 and earlier Dakotas inherently causes a wind noise.

    I would suspect an air leak. Unfortunately, the fix is likely to be in the form of adding sealing material around the windshield. If you can't locate a generalized area you will have to remove the entire gasket and run a bead of material. Not a nice job and not one I would recommend someone tackling if you've never done it before.

    I'd work with your dealer. The problem is going to be that the job done there is not one that a lot of service managers will want to take on if they don't believe they have the talent in the shop to do it correctly. Some dealers send all of that kind of work out to a glass shop.

    Good luck.

  • kjcdr1kjcdr1 Posts: 26
    is the question I have to ask about. My '01 4x4 QC with 4.7 V8 and Auto transmission will be 3 years old on March 1. With the 3 yr Dodge warranty I did not believe I needed the extended warranty during this first 3 years. My QC is a low mileage vehicle (17,500 miles at this point). Unless something very unusual occurs, I plan to keep this truck for 7 more years.

    Considering the prices quoted in the literature I have received from D/C, I have about decided that the money would be better put aside for correcting any future problems. The full package for 4years/50K miles is about $1300. Going to 7years and 75K is about twice that much.

    I have not posted for quite some time, but from my experience over the past 3 years, I know there will be someone in this group with good answers to my question. That question is: Has anyone with the higher mileages found a benefit from having an extended warranty? Or perhaps was there someone who did not have an extended warranty, but had a problem which could have been corrected under extended warranty if you had one? The cost of correcting any problems you may have encountered would be very helpful.

    It is decision time for me so any input from your experiences would be appreciated.

    Thanks. Ken
  • livnlrnlivnlrn Posts: 76
      Can't help much with experiance with this, but here are my thoughts. I too have a low mileage truck and plan on keeping it for 7-8 years. I did get an extended warrenty (not from D/C), For the price, I figured that the first time I have a transmission problem it will pay for itself. I figure because I will own the truck for 7-8 years I will recoup my investment and then some from the warrenty. But I got a 100K, 8 years, $0 deduct. for around $1300.
  • kjcdr1kjcdr1 Posts: 26
    it was noted 2 to 2.5 years ago that some Q/C owners had obtained Extended Warranty from . Just wondering where you all obtained your warranties??? The price mentioned in message #4684 above is much better that that offered by D/C.

    Again your assistance is appreciated. Ken
  • livnlrnlivnlrn Posts: 76
    You are correct. That is where I got my warranty from. I had owned the truck for about a year. The warranty was a 7yr/100k mile warranty from the day I bought the warranty. So that is where I got the 8yr/100k mile warranty figure from. The price went up the longer you waited and the more miles you had on the truck when you got it. They were also having a "sale" at the time. I have never had to use my warranty though. I questioned how the dealer would accept the warranty and the rep. from warranty direct put me on a "silent" conference call to my dealer and pretended to have a problem and made sure they would accept the warranty payments from the 3rd party warranty company credit card and the dealer had no problems. I also bought a warranty for my girlfriends car. We had that warranty for about 8 months and then traded the car in and got cash back from cancelling the warranty.
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