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Mitsubishi Outlander Engine and Performance Problems



  • Was wondering if anyone else got a dealer 'answer' to the engine noise? Mine is doing it as well. I have 6k miles. It sure sounds like a valve/lifter tap to me. Mine is most noticeable in the lower 1300-2100 rpm range. The tapping (some may describe it as 'ticking' or 'clicking') does increase/decrease with the rpm.
    I usually dont hear it when first start the engine cold (most likely because the oil is thicker) but as it warms up I begin to hear it, and always hear it at full operating temp. I doubt very much it is a fuel injector/design (only one noisy injector out of six? and never heard it before until now at 6k miles). Am quite certain it is not any relay clicking (no way an elec relay clicks that fast, full time, and exactly matched to rpm increase/decrease).
    Specific to Rancho66, I cant help but to think the dealer is giving you a line, my tapping still exists in temps from 15degrees at night to 45degrees during day (its been a weird past couple of weeks with weather temp changes where I am). What is interesting, is that there has been a few 'once in a while' occurrences where it seems to actually get a bit quieter, but after a few minutes/miles it returns being more noticeable again. I cant explain that one. Could it possibly be a bad hydraulic lifter leaking down but sometimes momentarily stays pumped up- thus no tap for awhile?
    Growwise, you seem to usually have some good info/specs etc. Do you know what the valve setup is for this v6 pzev engine? Does it have mechanical/solid lifters or hydraulic? I'm thinking probably not self adjust hydraulic since the book talks about adjusting the intake side. In a few weeks come March I'm thinking of maybe trying 5w30 to see if it helps. Otherwise a dealer visit. Would be nice to know ahead of time what others were told. Thx.
  • Hi,

    well the dealer did not really give me an answer to what the noise it just the run a round really. i know that when i hear the noise i find that my mileage goes to crap as well. keep a watch on that and report back if you seem to notice the same. i am only getting anywhere from 370-420 kms per tank which has changed from 560-700 kms a tank. one of the technicians suggested it maybe from the intake? not sure really but since i have notice a great loss of mileage i think he maybe right. right now they are asking me to keep track of the mileage so they can report back to Mitsubishi i imagine. keep me informed.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Could someone provide the p/n for the spark plugs of the 3.0L XLS Outlander (Platinum or Iridium will be OK-NGK or Denso)?
  • bozzy1bozzy1 Posts: 4
    Just bought an 08 Outlander SE 4 cyl with cvt. There is a light single clunk or tap when I pull away. It only happens after the car is started. In other words, it will not make the noise putting it into drive from park or neutral. You must turn the ignition on and put it in drive and then you get one clunk as you give it a little gas to pull away. Any thoughts?
  • piastpiast Posts: 269
    See my reply in other tread, where you have asked the same Q. It is ABS self test.
  • bozzy1bozzy1 Posts: 4
    Thanks so much piast.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 399
    I spotted this on Ebay while looking for Service Manual CDs.

    First off, I can't believe it wouldn't violate factory warranty.
    When you read claims like this one wonders if you'll ever need to put gas in your vehicle again!! :P
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,398
    Replacement ECUs are nothing new. They fiddle with the timings and do other tweaks to get more HP or torque. Typically, one comes at the expense of the other and things like emissions almost always suffer. If you live in an area with emissions testing or if you care about the eco-impact of vehicular emissions I'd say stay away. One of the main reasons these things can work at all is that from the factory the ECUs are programmed to strike a balance between emissions & power. The 3rd party ECUs can loosen up or remove those emissions restrictions, freeing up the power but fouling the air you breathe at the same time.

    I would also strongly doubt that a 3rd party ECU would not invalidate warranty coverage. Of course, should you blow your engine or trans up you could swap in the original ECU before attempting to make a warranty claim. But given the potential for internal logs this might not do any good. Go tot he source before you invest: Call the vehicle manufacturer (not the local dealer) and ask. Or RTFM on your warranty.

    Also, reality check time: How much can changing the engine affect economy when there's no corresponding change to the trans, especially to things like gear ratios. One or two MPG I could buy, but 10-15 more MPG (representing a better than 50% boost)? I don't think it's possible. And if you add 50 HP and/or 50 lb-ft of torque, what's going to be the impact on the rest of the powertrain. The trans gears might not be able to take the added strain of harsh acceleration (which is the real benefit you're after when replacing the ECU).

    Pure snake oil? No. You can get some improvements in performance from the chips. Just don't count on anything drastic and realize there's no such thing as a free lunch.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 399
    That was my point in posting. I'm familiar with people who have added performance chips on another list I'm on related to sportscars, but none of those chips promise the outrageous claims this one does. (If you are going to get 50 more hp in a normally aspirated engine you aren't also going to get the ridiculous improvement in gas mileage). With computer control and variable valve timing things have come a long way in having your cake and eating it too, but that an aftermarket chip is going to yield those kinds of improvements across the board vs the stock chip is ludicrous. I'd say most of the people I read using the aftermarket chips are done strictly for performance (and with Turbo's they know they are playing with a potential bomb upping boost pressures to eek out the extra HP they seek for power), are willing to sacrifice MPG if need be and and they know they would never pass an EPA dyno test. I'm just surprised this chip vendor didn't claim the chip would also drive the car for you too!! ;) I'm sure we'll all like to drive our 270 hp non-turbo Outlanders that get 40 MPG while doing it. :P
This discussion has been closed.