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Jeep Cherokee Grand Cherokee Noises and Sounds



  • hello, new to site. i have a 99 jeep grand cherokee larado that sounds like the same issue.
    background; had rear end noise, opened it up and found all the bearings bad and the ring and pinion bad from the bearings being so worn. changed all and the bearing whirl noise went away. 2500 miles later i have the noise that you guys descibe above. i though maybe i did something wrong to the rear end, opened it up and everything checked good. put it back together and went for a road test. sure enough when i put the tranny in neutral the noise all but goes away.
    when i bought the jeep the tranny leaked at the rear seal so i changed it before anything would happen. however, i feel that this may have a contributing factor to what i believe is a tranny bearing problem. the noise is a deeper growl noise but i was also wondering if it could be the drive shaft? this jeep has the CV type of drive shaft at the tranny end and your standard u joint type at the rear. thoughts????
  • It appears to have fixed the problem. After 3 different sepentine belt changes and After my mechanic changed the compressor and tensioner 2 times and then changed a compressor clutch., he put on Mopar belt and the squeeling went away. There is still a minor squeek , sometimes, when I start it, but it goes away. Bottom line, change the Mopar belt. It cost $50. So my mechanic charged $650 for the work and the REBUILT compressor and parts that he changed and only charged $50 for the new Mopar belt.-- What a guy.--- What a sweetheart
    Thanks to the fellow that gave me the advice.
  • Had a similar problem on my 1996. I tried several of the same remedies. Turned out to be the bracket just behind power steering pump was broken. Couldn't find it until it failed - broke into six pieces. $30 replacement fixed it. (replacement part is better reinforced)
  • My 99 Grand Cherokee Laredo (inline-6 with SelecTrack) hums when the 4wd is engaged. It's become more and more prevalent over the last two seasons. Had a local do-all mechanic look at it and he "didn't see anything, just threw some thicker fluid in the transfer case so you can trade it off." That didn't help my problem or his reputation, as I won't be revisiting or buying any used cars off him. Anyway, I still suspect the transfer case, but don't want to take guesses as to rebuilding or replacing. BTW, I know this isn't front hubs or CV joints as I've experience those noises before and this is different, plus this is only present in 4wd.
  • nlw450nlw450 Posts: 1
    Was told by dealership needed u-joints, cant buy them only the whole drive shaft, $961.18. went to junk yard and found used one, put it in and was fine for the fist day and a half, now back to the clanking sound when ever I take off, still sounds like u joints bad again new shaft only had 30,000 miles on there any thing cad could make them go bad that quick? or could it be my transfer case? I have all wheel drive.
  • Tonight, the rear hatch door on my 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee started making a loud (as in I can hear it from several feet away) grinding-like noise whenever the doors are unlocked. Since the doors automatically unlock when the driver's door is opened from the inside or the unlock button on the key ring is pressed twice, it is a bit annoying and worrisome. As far as I can tell, the hatch still locks and unlocks normally, but I have yet to officially lock the hatch and tried to open it, since I didn't want to accidentally set off the alarm and wake my neighbors this late at night.

    Does anyone know what might be causing this noise? And if so, is it a cheap and easy fix? I know very little about cars, and I'd rather not have to spend a ton of money on this repair, even if the noise makes me cringe every time I hear it.
  • Hi, I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee Special Edition 4wd, 4.7L engine. When I go over a sharp bump, I am getting a very annoying!!creaking/crunching type noise from the front passenger side. It only occurs when hitting a sharp bump or dip in the road, drives perfectly fine otherwise and doesnt have any other noises under normal driving, turning, etc. It has recently had new shocks, and tierods. I initially thought perhaps balljoints, but since it makes no noise at all when turning, probably not. I am thinking maybe control arm bushings or a bad coil spring insulator? Any thoughts would be really appreciated before I bring it into get it looked at. Thanks.
  • I think I have the same problem, seems to be part of the HVAC heat/air system but still makes the noise even when the fan is off... have you found the solution yet? I have and 8 ltr and have been listening to this noise for 6 months, seems worse when it's cold...
  • Thought originally it was the blend door. I ordered one on-line and took to my mechanic. Turns out it was actually the heater motor for the passenger side. Part of dash did have to come out but he put in the new motor, the blend door anyway and charged me around $500. It would have cost about $1100 at dealer. No more clicking and the heater runs great.
  • cskicski West Springfield, VAPosts: 1,491
    I just replaced all the major components in my (Jeep GC V8 Laredo w/ 131k) front end, and I still have a grinding noise/grinding feeling in the steering wheel when I turn the wheel to the right, escpecially over 40MPH.

    I have replaced the following:

    both front axles
    both front (and rear) shocks
    both front brakes and rotors

    After these items were replaced the grinding STARTED

    It felt like the front right wheel bearing.

    So, I had it replaced.

    Noise still continues.

    I am going up to Merchants to having it checked out again.

    Grinding is NEVER a good thing.
    I really don't want to replace all the ball joints, I think they just replaced the wrong wheel bearing assembly.
    Hopefully they will replace the drivers side wheel bearing AT COST since I spent $450.00 just to replace the passenger wheel bearing.

    I printed out over 20 auto parts places that had the hub for less than 75 bucks. I was charged 250. Not happy.

    Chris Skalski: Network Engineer 2012 Kia Optima EX

  • Noise sounds almost like a shudder or grinding. Only happens when making a sharp left at very slow speeds, in parking lots. First sounded as if coming from rear, so thought maybe wheel bearing. One time came from both front and rear at the same time, could feel the jeep shudder. Can't tell if coming from d/s or p/s. Doesn't do it all the time. Very sparadic., but starting to do it more often. Been doing it few weeks now. Any ideas?
  • Hi !...I had the same issue with my 2004 Grand Cherokee Lmt. It had 120K miles on it and I was experiencing the exact same condition. Since it felt like the hub bearing on the front driver side I change it myself along with the half axle. The condition still existed. At times it felt like it was comming from the passenger side so I change out that side also. Still having the condition. It only happened in parking lots making right or left tight slow turns. At that mileage it was time to have the transmission and transfer case fluid changed. I went to Chrysler and purchased their reccomended transfer case fluid and changed it myself. Without using the Jeep the next morning I had the transmission fluid "exchanged". I don't know how or why but the problem was gone??.................I hope this helps you.
  • skip0822skip0822 Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee, V-6 83,000 miles, I have a Clicking noise, coming from what seams to be my left rear... when I'm doing about 5 to 15 miles per hour, its loud and annoying..but as soon as I get up more in speed, its gone, and returns when I slow down, its driving me nuts..any suggestions
  • drewp38drewp38 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem exept its when i am turning left,only at very low speed ex.parking.Spent a couple hours with mechanics at dealership only for a senior mech to tell me it was the rotors(No way).Anyways put on new rotors,no change,quite annoyed with mech's at dealership now and don't want to go back,they also told me there was no safety concern,everything is tight in front end.Not sure what to do next,going to rotate my tires today.Looking for some help.
  • tekmjr28tekmjr28 Posts: 3
    Sounds like your heater resistor. The vent/door closing is normal.
  • tekmjr28tekmjr28 Posts: 3
    Maybe E-brake shoes.
  • harly1harly1 Posts: 1
    I have the same thing and already had all the rear end control arms replaced and still have that same noise coming from the front thinking i might have the front control arms replaced,and i still have some noise in the rear end when i push up and down on the bumper.I have a limited lifetime warranty on the dorman control arms in the rear wondering if it could be the shocks,have you found out what the problem was with yours
  • sotcrsotcr Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    I'm getting a cluncking sound and feeling transmitted to the sterrring column whenever I slow down abruptly or come to a stop. This is a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 4x4. Anyone else have this problem?
  • ecunniffeecunniffe Posts: 6
    Have had the same issue in past just after having brakes done. Turned out that the bracket that holds the calipers on - one of them was slightly loose and make clunk thumping sound when brakes applied.
    check this to make sure tight. I think it was 16 iir 18 mm wrench
  • mangulomangulo Posts: 2
    My husband has a 1996 and we have had the same problem for years. One so called mechanic replaced a couple of different things saying that's what it was, wrong. Somebody else said transmission. Another mechanic said shocks again. Last month the damn door for somereason fell down, just ripped and we couldn't shut it. Took it to a body shop they got a door and installed it for $300. As my husband was leaving they said did he want to fix that grinding clank problem, as they were doing another Jeep for the same problem. My husband asked if they really knew what it was and they said yeah, it's the transfer case. That it's a big problem with the Jeep Cherokees. $800 for parts and labor later problem solved!!! Wish we had found them a couple of thousand $ earlier. Hope this might help.
  • Hi,

    Since December 2010, my check engine light has come on five times. I've included below what was done each time at the mechanic.

    73,797 - P0456 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (very small leak) - 11/26/10 - Possible loose gas cap, mechanic tightened and tested cap and reset the OBD.

    74,102 - P0442 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (medium leak) - 12/7/10 - Gas cap tested bad, mechanic replaced the gas cap and reset the OBD.

    77,718 - P0455 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (large leak) - 5/31/11 - Possible loose gas cap, mechanic tightened cap and reset the OBD.

    77,865 - P0455 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (large leak) - 6/10/11 - Mechanic replaced the evaporative vent solenoid (solenoid was clicking loudly on the 11/26/10 date) and the crankcase vent hose (hose was cracked); reset the OBD.

    78,161 - P0455 Error Code - Evaporative emission control system leak detected (large leak) - 6/21/11 - Mechanic suggested going to the dealer because they have an advanced computer system.

    My questions:

    I've researched this on Google and it appears that many have had this issue on different Chrysler vehicles, many with no resolution. My mechanic said he could do a smoke test (pump smoke through the evaporative system) to see if that shows anything, but he said that this can be expensive to track down the problem. The dealer wants $95 just to run diagnostics (which would apply to my estimate to get it fixed, assuming they figure out the problem).

    Have you heard of this? If so, what have people tried?
    Any other suggestions?

    The mechanic said I could drive with the light on, but this makes me uneasy, especially if I go out of town. I have noticed a decline in gas mileage. Other than that, it may run slightly rough here and there, but overall doesn't seem phased by this issue. I haven't spent a ridiculous amount of money so far, but I'm trying to keep the costs down on this.

  • It is a 2002 Jeep GC with almost 79,000 miles. It is the 4.0 I-6 and is two wheel drive.
  • lionel4lionel4 Posts: 1
    shock absorber bushings
  • lojo61377lojo61377 Posts: 1
    Just noticed this a few days ago, but I am a paranoid driver and hate driving a vehicle when something "could" be wrong.
    Anyway, I noticed, what seems to me, a whooshing, air-like noise. The noise seems to come from right up front, around the dash. I can turn the car off and the noise is still there.
    My husband drove it the last couple days and he says he can hear the noise but not sure what it is and other than the noise it runs pretty well. Any ideas what this could be?

    1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
    175000 miles
    4WD but doesn't work (differential went out, had changed to 2WD)
  • ecunniffeecunniffe Posts: 6
    I had that same sound on my 93 and 95 cherokees and was told that the cause was the air conditioner. don't completely understand the science of them but the coolant in the air conditioner is just flowing back into the compressor and nothing to worry about.
  • 1sikwj1sikwj Posts: 1
    hey, did you ever figure out that noise. my jeep would make the same clicking/grinding noise from the rear so i sat in the rear passenger seat and with the door open and my seat beat on i leaned out of the jeep while my dad made that slow left turn and noticed it was louder outside the jeep right near the pass. rear tire. long story short. i found my muffler pipe was loose and seen the spot where it would bang against at every left turn. i guess the rubber boot or mount on the muffler hanger went bad... replaced it for $9.00 at a local autoparts store. no more embarassing noise when turning left
  • try replacing your wheel barring on that side of the car my 98 jeep did the same thing and i fixed the barring and never heard the noise again.
  • Low to medium pitched growling noise from somewhere in the front end which occurs only while the vehicle is in motion. Noise is most noticeable below 40 or so but is present at essentially all speeds as well as both on coast and acceleration. Noise disappears entirely when the vehicle is turned even moderately to the left and increases in severity when turned to the right.
  • Hi there if you have the tow bar that slides in and locks with a pin then check that out.After a while it opens up,but just place something to stop it moving around.
  • I have a 2001 JGC 4.7 v8 when i move from P and go into R and D i get a clicking sound for a few seconds then it stops. Any help please. Thanks.
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