Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mercury Mountaineer Start Stall Idle Problems



  • Are you as fustrated as me? Mine is randomly stalling going at 20-35 mph. I put it in N and it turns right back over.
  • bellenbellen Posts: 1
    I have had this same problem with my 2007 Mountaineer. Just today I had to replace the plug, coil, and boot for the third time.... still no recall though!
  • What did you ever find out? im having the same issue
  • I brought it to a dealership a couple of times... The last thing they did seemed to make a difference, which was basically clean the throttle. I'm not a car person so I honestly don't even know what that means, but they said it was very dirty (I bring it oversand a lot, so that may have contributed?). Anyway, I have not had an issue since, although I still don't trust it 100%. Good luck!
  • My 2002 Mercury Mountaineer will start, but immediately (slowly) turn back off. It will only stay on if I hold down gas pedal (accelerate). My friend's mechanic looked at it, not sure if he's good mechanic , but i'm broke so I let him. He told me it might have something to do with throttle body. Said he cleaned it and washed air filter. It ran good for about 1 week, but it's started doing same thing this morning. Jiffy Lube also suggested I change air filter. Check engine light is NOT on. Once in a while it makes a noise when I turn on. Similar noise when car is already on, and you try turning ignition or overturning. They told me I'll probably need starter soon. Might be seperate issue. Don't want to throw money away.. Please help. Thanks
  • Hi there - well, I do love my mountaineer. It is a 2003 V8 AWD. I bought new with 6 miles in 10/2003 and have since then driven quite a bit. The odometer now reads 279,864 (thats miles). Same engine, same transmission, even the same starter. I guess mine was built on a very good day! The body is 100%. The leather on my drivers seat is cracking a bit though, but oh well.

    Anyway, I just started having this really bizarre problem that three mechanics have looked at and nobody can answer. There is some little cap on the back of the engine that keeps blowing off and anti-freeze pours out everywhere. The man who owns the garage that is working on my car has know it since it was a baby, so obviously, he has done gone by my car, and me. But this one is kind of a stumper. I'm hoping to get another 100,000 out of it since I have childen in college, so if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know! I don't know if this is just some oddity...or if it could indicate a problem that can possibly be fixed before it is a disaster!

    thank you so much!
  • sulemasulema Posts: 1
    This just happened to me!!! What was your outcome? What did it turn out to be?
  • fpa4ufpa4u Posts: 1
    On my way home from KY to NJ I broke down in PA. The truck stalled at 70mph. The only code was a crack sensor issue. I replaced it and got back on the road again. Light came back on but no more stalling at speed. Now I took it to one guy and he said I had blow heads. So I did a little research and found that the intake manifolds fail often. Well sure enough the manifold was leaking into the injectors plugs etc...So we replaced the manifold on Sat but now it stalls like crazy so we are going to clean the injectors this weekend. I will update and let you know. Also have a noise that sounds like a diesel when in gear. I just had the trans checked today and it is fine. We are also replacing the fly wheel this weekend as the trans guy said the noise is coming from there but he wanted $1,000 bucks to replace a $62 not happening...
  • please help.3 days ago i replaced the manifold gaskets to stop coolant leak. now its running very rough,it also has a knocking sound from the oil sounds like the motor is bogging out, rpm will not get over 1500 ,cataylic converter was glowing red hot last night. at first i thought it was just a vaccum leak, guess not. before i replace gaskets it did run hot and i had to tow home. could i have messed up my motor. i have no coolant or oil leak now, though. if any one has an idea that would be GREAT, THANKS
  • has anyone found a solution for this issue? Starts then shuts off unless holding gas pedal.
  • dkt2dkt2 Posts: 1

    Has anyone found the reason for this? I have a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer SUV and it is going dead when I slow down to about 30 or stop at lights. Very bad when on a busy street for this to happen. Was hoping to keep it for a while longer because wife is having lots of health problems and doctor bills.

  • ckg3ckg3 Posts: 1

    Hoping this is of help to some folks. I had very similiar issues to what is mentioned in this thread. I had a Mazda MPV with a Ford Duratec V6 (2004). The issue turned out to be related to a few things. 1) I changed out my ignition coil packs. This engine gets water on the coil pack which causes a misfire due to the short circuit intermittently when the spark plugs fire and the moisture accumulate under the boot. 2) I also had the throttle body cleaned for carbon from the misfires I just mentioned. The 3rd and most important thing I believe is I replaced the Idle Air control valve. This adjusts the air for the engine at idle and can stick when there is carbon buildup in the intake manifold giving your engine too much or too little air at idle and when accelerating and cause a stall. This thing was like $50 or less at Autozone and super easy to change just 1 nut and 15 minutes. About the same work/complexity as changing a air filter.

  • I have the same stalling at low idle problem (under 500 RPM) with my 2003 Mountaineer 4.6L V8 AWD. I have searched many forums and spent 3 weekends on this problem.
    I think I may have solved it with worldwide help.
    1. Weekend one - Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor & Serpentine Belt (No change with problem)
    2. Weekend two - Throttle Position Sensor & Mass Air Flow Sensor (No change with problem)
    3. Weekend three - Idle Air Control Valve with Gasket ( Major IMPROVEMENT!!!!!)

    I think weekend 3 did the trick. And it was the easy one to replace. $75.00 from Autozone with a lifetime warranty. Easy removal and install. Remove Negative battery terminal. Carefully remove IAC Valve electrical connector. Remove 2 8mm bolts. Remove old gasket. Install by reverse order these instructions.

    Now after racing the engine to 2500 RPM while in park then letting off the gas pedal. The computer auto revs when the RPMs hit 600.

    I hope this helps someone.

    Good Luck
  • jd688jd688 Posts: 4
    Your description sounded similar to what I'm going through with my 2008 Mountaineer, problem is, I don't have an IAC with mine. My computer is telling the engine to rev at a high RPM on startup, then keeps it above 1100. Then when I shift into R or D it kills the engine. Engine starts right back up, but the only way to get going is to apply the gas while shifting into Drive. Tell me THAT's good for the transmission. My mechanic can't determine what's going on because the computer isn't throwing any codes. I think the computer's sick, but doesn't know it. I'm driving with HAL from 2001 Space Odyssey.
  • clint355clint355 Posts: 1
    edited October 2017
    Hi fellow mountaineers. i have a 2004 4.6L mountaineer with the same problems" won't idle or accelerate no power at all. So i disconnected the exhaust line from the EGR valve, and my engine idle was good. I took it around the block and it ran fine, when i got back home, i took off the two o2 sensors at the bottom of the upper catalytic converter. My engine power was good and it ran normal. To solve the problem I realize it was the lower catalytic converter, it was blocked to capacity. I really don't know how the car was running, I used a direct fit system I bought on line and now it run"s great.......i hope this helps some one
Sign In or Register to comment.