Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevrolet Blazer Engine and Performance Problems



  • I have been having belt noise since last June. I bought a belt from Pep Boys and they put it on because I was having problems getting it on. I think they charged me like $20 or $30 JUST to put it on and it took the guy like 3 minutes. Anyway, the noise barely went away. It had/has gotten worse the past few months. I would spray a lubricant on it every so often, but, the noise would come back in seconds. I tried belt dressing, against my better judgement, yeah it didn't work at all. DON'T USE BELT DRESSING ON SQUEAKY BELTS. Today I saw where you said you used silicone grease. I ran up to ace, bought some and put it on, it worked GREAT. I'm affraid tomorrow it will be back, but, we'll see. My belt is under warranty at Pep Boys, but, they will only exchange it, not refund my money. Why in the world would I want the same belt?!?! I was going to try a gatorback belt, but, I'm farely poor ha. So, I just hope the silicone grease works. Thanks!!
  • horseyhorsey Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Chevy blazer w/ V-6 Vortex engine. About a month ago it starting idling higher than normal until it warms up. When you are on icy roads and come to a stop sign, if the idle hasn't come down yet, it's like trying to stop with one foot on the brake and one on the gas, which isn't good!! The high idle eventually comes back down after awhile. One buddy though it might be the throttle positioning sensor and another buddy thought it might be the idle air control sensor. The check engine light doesn't come on though, so I was told I probably can't get a code. Anybody thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    I finally had to give up on the Gates belt and go with Goodyear. A trusted mechanic told me they have had problems with Gates serpentine belts chirping and squeaking. He said it is because the Gates has continuous grooves with no breaks and can trap oil and dirt.

    Since I changed to the Goodyear belt I have had no noises in over 3 months. Seems to be fixed.
  • bigt442bigt442 Posts: 6
    I have a 1998 blazer that has had the fuel pump and filter replaced. It still seems to lack power and sometimes backfire or burp back thru the throttle body. fuel pressure seems to be with in tollerance, but have noticed a water leak at the back of the intake. So with that leak could a vacume leak cause it to run like this also. I have had a code that tells me that it is lean on bank 1 also. any help please.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Leaking intake manifold gasket, fairly common on these engines with high mileage.
  • fl2dvfl2dv Posts: 1
    i've been stalling alot after my blazer warms up.the warning light comes on and car wants to stall. i replaced the throttle position sensor but did not unhook the battery. would this cause my blazer to have hard starting now when i start my blazer? what should i do?
  • bigt442bigt442 Posts: 6
    I have a 1998 chevy blazer that I have now replaced the fuel pump and filter. I have also replaced the intake gaskets, mas air flow sensor and have tested all other sensors. All of them have check fine.The only other sensors to be check are the cam and crank. So now here is the problem, It will start but when you go to give it the gas it will stall out and then it may set a few moments before it restart. I am lost at what to do. :sick:
  • 2001 blazer 4.3 4wd - Repolaced fuel filter, air filter, plugs, cap, rotor, wires and oil change. No code until 15 minutes after getting to temp and then OBD gets a code for cyclinder 5 misfire. Would the coil cause this? Or do I need an injector. My mechanic stated that if I replace the injectors, I have to have a "spider" setup, but during research, there is no "spider" for that year, just the injectors and fuel pressure regulator.
  • hi,i have a 1999 blazer with 4.3L engine.the fuel pump went bad so i waited about 2 weeks then replaced it when i had the the engine runs very rough and the exhaust is black and smells very sulfery.after driving it awhile i got the service engine light, the code reader shows p1133 and p1153.when i put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail test port it's reading 80-90 psi well above the 60-66 psi it should read. before the fuel pump went bad and i replaced it the car ran perfect.the manual i have for the car does not tell me what these odb codes mean. any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated
  • The water leak shouldnt cause a vacum leak although it may! But the code lean on bank one tells me that the o2 sensor is bad, also check to make sure the firing order is right as well! The code says the o2 sensor in bank one is bad which means the sensor befor the cat. try replacing that one. there should only be 2 of them on that model
  • 97 GMC Jimmy with a V6 Vortec, motor was bought from Advance and has around 40000 miles. I didn't put the motor in, it was already installed when I bought it. Hope someone can help me with this miss problem, I will try to explain it the best that I can. First off, new plugs, new plug wires, new coil pack, fuel filter and air filter. Catalytic converter has been removed. No Check engine light is on. The vehicle starts perfect and idles perfect, but when you go up a hill it sometimes has a bad hesitation like you are letting off the fuel back and forth, give it more gas and it quits. Then sometimes on flat ground at 55 mph it does the same thing. Sometimes I can pull into a parking lot at 3 mph or at an idle and the motor has a violent stutter to it. That has only happened twice. So can anyone enlighten me on this subject??
  • Actuall it is not the motor. my moms blazer is doing the same thing and it is a factory gm motor. I am trying to track down that problem this week if i figure it out i will post another message to this problem.
  • In some older GM transmissions there was a problem with electronic solenoids sticking and not allowing the trans. to downshift out of lockup. This may be part of your problem
  • It has all new tune-up items and clean battery connections. It runs good once it starts but it cranks longer than it ever did .Appx. 130k milage. Inoticed some leakage around the front of the intake. ?????????????????It stalled on me last night and didn't want to idle at first ????????????
  • mcainmcain Posts: 1
    my dash lights dont work and it wont kick out of 4whl drive will someone please help i dont know what it is
  • 97 chevy blazer started fine but after filling tank it would not start it cranks strong and every thing was working except the idiot light . i had the key in the on postion while i was waiting for help to arrive and the lights came on and it started just fine. turned it off and the same thing happened after about five min. the next time i turned it off the lights did not come on and it will not start
  • It could be a number of things. Like a fuel filter or fuel pump. or ignition coil. Check to see if you have the three basic needs. fuel, spark, and of course you will have exhaust... The spark should be bright blue. not orange! and fuel pressure should be around 62 pounds with the key on and engine off. and 60 pounds with the key on and the engine running. let me know!
  • My car wont start. It turns over but thats it. Not the battery as I just replaced it and like I said it turns over. I was snowed in for 10 days and 2 days ago tried to get out-my car was fine and it started but ice and snow was too thick so all it did was spin the tires but I think it affected the engine because e tried for about an hour and only got 4ft!!!!!!
    The car was missing alot about 2 weeks ago and suddenly stopped. I have been told it is the fuel filter or pump??? I am new here and will have to get it towed in the morning but also dont want to get taken advantage of. Any ideas??
  • In March, I had to change my radiator. It's been running fine until a couple of weeks ago. I parked my blazer and notice water running from under the car. It was coming out just in front of the oil pan. It didn't overheat or anything. I check the fluid and noticed that it wasn't any antifreeze which I purchase and gave to the shop but water. Also it look like stop leak was still in the radiator. I figured that the stop leak was in the motor from the bad radiators leak before I bought the vehical. But I can't find the leak. I can smell it when I drive for awhile and the temp goes just to the 200 degree range but doesn't overheat and now my check engine light is on. There isn't any water in the oil but I did notice water in the exhaust and it was 91 degrees today. Is there anywhere else it could be leaking at?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Could be a water pump leaking, or possibly the intake manifold (a fairly common problem on these engines). If the water pump, you should be able to see water coming out around the shaft. I have been told that with the intake manifold you will find antifreeze in the intake valleys.

    What code has been set? Autozone will check for you.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    It is likely the water pump leaking. The water pump has a hole in the casting under the impeller shaft which will leak if a water pump bearing seal fails. That indicates that the wtaer pump needs to be replaced.

    Another more common source of a leak is the thermostat housing to intake manifold gasket. Sometimes they leak a little after they have been replaced until the gasket swells and seals. Especially if the gasket was installed wihout any Permatex High Tack sealer or it was tightened incorrectly or not tightened enough. Many car owners or shop technicians will not tighten those enough after the thermostat has been replaced and the two thermostat housing bolts will need to be snugged up a little to stop a coolant leak. The aluminum thermostat housings are easy to break if they are overtightened. I wish shop technicians were as cautious with oil pan drain plugs.

    Other common sources of coolant leaks from the front ot the engine are:
    1.) Upper radiator hose to thermostat housing connection.
    2.) Lower radiator hose to water pump connection.
    3.) Heater hose connections to the water pump and intake manifold. .
  • I'll try to see if it's the intake manifold. Autozone stopped checking codes for you
    Thanks for your help :)
  • the motor is so tight I can't hardly see anything in there. I was thinking maybe it's the engines drain plug that has worked itself loose.

    Thanks but it more than likely a intake manifold problem :)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    2001 4.3L engine does not use a thermostat housing gasket. The thermostat itself has a heavy rubber seal that compresses between the housing and the intake manifold and uses no sealer.

    My bets are still on the water pump.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    You might try reaching around to the underside of the water pump and see if you get antifreeze on your hand. I would definitely check that before going after the intake manifold.
  • djo611djo611 Posts: 4
    I have heard that you should only use dex-cool in the 4.3 engines, yet some mechanics suggest flushing the system and using a 50/50 mix of atifreeze because of gasket eating problems with dex-cool. Is this true?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    There was a class action law suit pending against GM concernng people who used Dex-Cool anti-freeze which allegedly ruined their engines. Sadowski/Bertino vs General Motors Corp.

    The class action suit has settled and the suit is closed. The claims were affected by the GM Chapter 11 bankruptcy. ( )

    Why risk using Dex-Cool when the green stuff is a tried and true antifreeze when used as instructed?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    "Why risk using Dex-Cool when the green stuff is a tried and true antifreeze when as instructed?"

    Because if you don't get every bit of that Dex-Cool out of the system, you will have problems. Like gasket issues and blocked cooling passages.

    The big issue with Dex-Cool isn't so much the product, as the change interval that GM published. No way do you leave this stuff unchanged for 5 years 100K miles. I have not come across any issues with 60K changes. The 4.3L intake manifold gasket issue is not coolant related, but an issue with the proper torque of the intake manifold and it's flexing/distortion over time. Not all engines are affected (I have two such engines, one with over 90K and no issue) but some have failed in less than 60K miles, most around 70-80K.

    I agree that the standard ethylene glycol antifreeze is good, and has been for years. As long as it is changed at least every 30K or 24 months, it will provide good service. What some folks don't realize is that the antifreeze properties are not the issue, it is the anti-corrosive chemical breakdown that causes problems. Nowhere was this more evident than in the mid-80's GM cast iron engines where the freeze plugs would rust out and start leaking. PITA to fix that "little problem". The parts would cost a couple of bucks, the labor hundreds!
  • how do i programm the remote for my 99 S-10 BLAZER
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    The Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair topic might be a better fit to your question. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
Sign In or Register to comment.