Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds



  • That's what mine is doing, too. It is getting progressively louder and louder.....very loud right now. I just spent $900 on a fuel filter, and I can't afford any more.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    On my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 SUV the front wheel drive transfer case is directly under the driver's feet. I never use the 4x4 but I sometimes hear a noise coming from that area. When yoiu change your oil, it may be wise to at least inspect the fluid level or completely change the transmission fluid (Dextron III) in the 4x4 transfer case. That is a simple job. The fill and drain plug are large (over 1 inch) metric plugs. The largest expense is purchasing a metric socket that size or maybe I can borrow one. The 4x4 transfer case is chain driven and chains become noisy without adequate lube. However, I don't think the chain is moving if the 4x4 is not engaged but I don't know for sure.

    The fluid in the 4x4 transfer case on my 1991 S10 Blazer has never been changed and I see no sign of any leaks so I suppose the transmission fluid in the transfer case is probably just worn out. I changed the filter and fluid in my transmission recently and it was still bright red, meaning, it was good. I think the previous owner (my daughter) had the transmission fluid changed sometime since she bought the car in 1991. My 1991 S10 Blazer is in amazingly mint condition for a 18 yerar old car and even has the original spare and tire cover hanging on the tail gate.
  • Well, I took my car to the mechanic yesterday. He told me my differential was going out.....$1,500! I just put $900 in it for a new fuel pump. I told him I would give him $5.00 to drive it off a cliff. I also asked if he thought someone would steal it if I left the keys in it! No takers. A thief doesn't even want it. He told me it would either go out and coast to the side of the road or could possibly lock up the rear wheels and put me into a skid. Oh, goodie! He also told me I need new tires. So, I am not very happy!
  • I have a 1996 chevy blazer and my lights keeps going off intermittently. During that time I can hear noise coming from my glove box. I changed all 3 relay switches in the glove box and to no avail, my lights still keep going off. I spoke with several people who told me it could possible be my turn signal arm or a poor connection. Need some assistance.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The Gov-Loc rear differentials used in the S10 Blazers and other GM intermediates are good units if they are not abused. They are a unique locking - unlocking type differential and they work well for their intended use. The Gov-loc differential will sense relative wheel speed and when one rear wheel is spinning 100 RPM faster that the other, the Gov-Loc will lock up and engage both axles. The when the vehicle reaches 20 MPH, the Gov-loc will disengage the axles and function as a conventional differential. Spinning one rear wheel in gravel or mud and if the other wheel hits solid pavement the subsequent impact shock to the differential when it locks the axles will instantly destroy a Gov-Loc. .Richmond makes a No-Slip differential that costs $400 and is a direct replacment for the Eaton Gov-Loc differential used in GM intermediates. Te Richmond No-Slip differential will stand mose any kind of abuse with an engine with up to 275 to 300 HP. The Richmond No-Slip differential is a locking type differential that may be troublesome for some people to drive on the street but it is far more durable than a Gov-Loc. The Eaton Gov-Loc replaced the clutch type limited slip differentials that GM first introduced in 1957.. The old clutch type limited-slip differentials required whale oil as a friction modifier additive. Whale oil is not available anymore to use as a friction modifier because of the international restrictions against harvesting whales for their oil.

    Look on your glove compartment door for RPO code G80. If that code is on the RPO decal on the glove compartment door, you have the troublesome Gov-Loc differential.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Get a second opinion. While it is possible for a high mileage, or heavy towing, to kill the bearings in the diff, that $1500 estimate is high. A complete rebuilt or used unit is what he is quoting, and if you can find a good drivetrain shop they should be able to re-use something out of the original. The typical failure I have seen is the pinion gear bearing, and many times that is caused by having the pinion shaft seal replaced and the bearing being over torqued on reassembly. Very, VERY common on Chevy differentials. You really need to make sure you are dealing with someone who understands that the Chevy has very specific torque specs, and to exceed them will kill the differential.
  • I will definitely do that. I have had people tell me that $1500 is very high for this type of repair. Thanks for the advice!
  • Well, well, well, Ladies and Gentlemen....the mystery is solved. My problem was a wheel bearing. The first mechanic (?) said my differential was going out and that it would cost $1500. The second mechanic wanted $50 to diagnose my problem but that I had a wheel bearing going out. I finally found a FABULOUS mechanic on Angie's List. He diagnosed the noise as a wheel bearing immediately. He fixed it that afternoon for less than $450. I would have been SICK to have spent $1500 on a rear differential and then found out it was a wheel bearing later. So, I am back on the road! Kat
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Thanks for the followup! It's always nice to save money on repairs. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • c5nutc5nut Posts: 11
    You got hosed on your fuel pump too. Just changed mine (pretty easy) with a pump made in indiana for $330.
  • I keep telling everyone that I am trying to build a new car a piece at a time. So many things have gone wrong in a year-and-a-half. I'm afraid of what is next. I have replaced the brakes twice, alternator, serpentine belt, fuel pump, wheel bearing, and ball joints; and my water pump has supposedly been going out for a year. I have lived in my current apartment for one year and have had my car broken in to three times (the last time breaking out the window). So, I am pretty exhausted at this point.

    What should a new water pump cost, should it finally go out?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Less than $50. It is basically the same water pump as used on a Chevy V8.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    A 2000 Chevrolet Blazer with a serpentine belt must use a reverse flow (ccw) , long style water pump.
    AC Delco 252-711 (new)

    Rebuilt reverse flow water pumps vary from $35 - $50.

    Chevrolet engines with a V-belt use a standard flow (cw) water pump.
  • A year ago, a mechanic gave me a price of $250. The most recent estimate was approximatley $450. I am a single woman, so I can't do it myself (not that a woman is not perfectly capable. It's just that "I" am not). Maybe when my boyfriend comes home I can have him fix it.
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Posts: 30
    The hinge pin bushings were shot.
  • kevinmnkevinmn Posts: 1
    While driving fast but more noticable when slow, going straight with AC on or off and in 2 or 4 wheel drive there is a knocking that I can feel on my left foot. It becomes more distinct the longer I've been driving. Any ideas? I just had new tires put on as well as a new oxygen sensor but I think I remember it before I had those repairs made. I crawled underneath and looked around but don't see anything obvious or even many functioning parts around the suspect area. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks.
  • py072888py072888 Posts: 4
    Own a 2000 chevy blazer. Makes a loud almost revving noise when its cold. noise will stop when you come to a stop and does not come back until the car is shut off. also when you stop it makes a clunking noise. any ideas. very similar to #107. almost the exact same thing. please help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Very common for the fan clutch on a 4.3L to be very loud when first started and for the first few minutes. Not a concern unless the noise continues, indicating the fan clutch has locked up. This will kill your gas mileage, and also cause the engine to run cool.
  • py072888py072888 Posts: 4
    No not like a fan clutch noise. Best way to describe is like the card in the bike tire. Only happens when the engine is cold. not even cool. I let the car sit for 3 hours and tried to make it happen and it wouldnt because it was still warm. Sounds like it is in the passenger side of the blazer. And the noise stops if you come to a stop sign and does not come back until next day or hours later. Im stumpped.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Possibly then a problem in the blower motor area? Try changing the fan speed and see if the noise changes. ABS is on the other side, so not likely the ABS module cycling.
Sign In or Register to comment.