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Lincoln Town Car Heating / Cooling



  • wjbeanwjbean Posts: 1
    Actually the compressor will start "pumping" when there's enough pressure in the system. This typically requires one standard sized (12oz) can of freon, not an entire kit. There is a small amount of compressor oil in every can of freon.

    The compressor won't work if there's a blown fuse, electrical short or open, not enough freon in the system or if the AC computer is somehow not working.
  • Where can I purchase a climate control panel for a/c & heater which sits on the dashboard?
  • My 96 has the same problem.The A/C auto mode works occasionally,heat never on auto.What's the fix??New unit?
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    edited June 2011
    Sounds like you need the blower motor resistor. I had the same issue where the fan would run/not run on A/C. I replaced the Blower Motor Resistor. -
  • I have a 1996 Lincoln Town Car, Cartier addition with 108,000 mi. I had the a/c on and have noticed no airflow through the vents when the climate control was set at automatic or maximum. However, I could hear the blower working strong.
    I went online and read many forums, including this one, and most of the answers relating to this problem involved checking or replacing the blend door actuator, or a blower motor resistor. I never heard any clicking noise under the dash that's normally heard if one goes bad. I looked at my Haynes manual, but it didn't give much info. I found videos on you tube to give me ideas where to start.

    One video showed the removal and replacement of the actuator just behind the glove compartment of a Ford Explorer, so I removed the glove box in my Lincoln. I didn't find the actuator per say, thinking I was going to have to remove the dashboard to find it.

    What I found was that my glove compartment was overflowing with junk such as napkins, service invoices, etc. The main problems was all the small garbage bags that we kept in there for long trips. With the glove box so full, the paper and plastic bags went over the back wall of the glove box and got sucked into what I assume is the cabin air filter. It's a foam door that opens up when the a/c is on, and was totally blocked with junk.

    I was almost ready to go to the auto parts store and spend some money prior to finding this. I cleared all the junk out and now keep a very minimum of necessities in the glove box and the air flow is fine.

    I know I was lucky and that most people genuinely have something wrong with their a/c, but by unhooking the straps that keep the glove box from falling to the floor and looking behind it saved me money and a lot of time.

    Once in awhile, it can be a very subtle thing that can cause so much trouble, with a very easy solution.
  • maxeybillymaxeybilly Posts: 29
    edited July 2011
    05 town car ac usually works great the first time I turn it on each day; it really cools down as it should on AUTO. Then, after I stop somewhere and it sits for awhile, it doesn't cool as quickly the next time I engage the ac. I have heard about blend door actuator problems and this may be it, but how do I know? i suspect it because it just seems that the air coming out is blended with warmer air. however, it may be something different, because in looking around under the dash for anything that might be an obvious problem, I've noticed the aluminum pipes(?) under there are so hot I can't ouch them...this doesn't sound right. At the very least those suckers are giving off a lot of heat. What are they and why are they so hot. Although I haven't c checked them before i use the ac first thing each morning, I know they can't possibly be hot. Please, anyone, can you help me? With each day over 100 degrees here in Oklahoma, and no job, I need to fix this at least cost possible.
  • myke500myke500 Posts: 6
    I was able to find qute a bit of resources through and to identify where the bda is at and how to get to it. Quite a project requireing 2 persons, and several hours. It is hard to see, but can be viewed from the glove box by looking up and to the left. But the dash must come out to get to it.
  • Two years ago bought a good souhern 1997 Lincoln town car and air worked. Being it is a winter car in Florida, the air was not used much and last year when I started the car, the air did not work. Did take it to a shop advertising free diagnoses and they said the compresser was shot so I left it be because that did not make sense. Then I saw a troubleshooting program where a car (in this case it was a Jeep) that was taken to four different shops and only two of them diagnosed the problem with the air in this vehicle......was a relay (looked like a fuse) found in a box in the engine compartment.....relay was to send a signal to the system so the clutch would engage..........well, then I wonder if that might be my issue. I found a box that has markings for air relay but not sure how this box opens or how you access it to see if the relay it good or bad. Anyone have any thoughts on this and how I might check it out; would very much appreciate some good feedback.......would be something if that is all it was.
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    Yes there is a relay just behind the passengerv side valve cover. Hard to get to but it can be done. They are known for going bad. Mine is bad right now. It comes and goes.
  • Hi John:

    I have a 1996 Town car. I have the same problem w/the blender/actuator door leaking on the passenger floor and NO HEAT. I LIVE IN BLIZZARD TERRITORY. After almost 2 years, PLEASE tell me you now know how to get the dash out? My mechanic is starting to put the screws back in and giving up. LOL :sick: I'M having so much trouble w/this. My mechanic DIED in the middle of repairing it. My 2nd mechanic's father died. We buried him this past Tuesday. HELP
  • I have a 1996 Town car. We can't get the dash out. My mechanic thinks it's the heater core The other mechanic thinks it's a problem w/the blender/actuator door leaking on the passenger floor and NO HEAT. I LIVE IN BLIZZARD TERRITORY. PLEASE tell me how to get the dash out? My mechanic is starting to put the screws back in and giving up. LOL I'M having so much trouble w/this. My mechanic DIED in the middle of repairing it. After taking apart most of the dash, it had to be put back together and now I'm missing screws. My 2nd mechanic's father died. We buried him this past Tuesday. HELP
  • Just bought a 2005 TC and sometimes when started and at shutoff, I here a thumping/bubbling sound coming from what appears in the dash area or engine compartment. It doesn't do this always but sure seems to be annoying. Is this something I should be concerned with? I read in the owners manual that a noise from the traction control could make noise when the igition is turned off and is normal. Is this what I'm hearing? Thanks for any and all replys.
  • I have an 05 TC and that noise you hear is the vacuum operated blend doors on the climate control system actuating, ie, opening and closing and adjusting to whatever setting you system is set for. When an engine powers up vacuum is created and all vacuum operated devices then, in turn, are pulling that vacuum and doing whatever they are designed to do. When the engine is shut off the vacuum is lost, and the devices which depend on vac, lose their ability to maintain their settings, hence the blends doors moving, creaking, boiling, etc. It's normal, not to worry now that you understand it.
  • kpizurakpizura Posts: 1
    In Auto mode, heat works fine for first 20-30 minutes. As time goes by, cabin temp. begins to drop and I have to keep increasing the temperature to maintain a comfortable cabin temp. To maintain 70-72, I will eventually need to kick the temp up to the 80's.

    Any ideas?
  • maxeybillymaxeybilly Posts: 29
    edited March 2013
    Lincolns have a bad reputation when it comes to the climate control system which is frequently NOT under control. Frequently, the blend doors don't really blend properly and most all owners know better than to try to repair the problem--its a nightmare and takes a fortune in labor costs. This heat loss also works in reverse---When AC is engaged for first time on a 100 degree day, it will work fine . But, if the car is taken on short trips--on and off again . the AC cannot recover. In other words, it loses its cooling ability and the reason why is because the heater core and the AC evaporator are right next to each other. As the engine reaches operating temp, the heater core is HOT, and ready for heat if you need it. It doesn't realize that its already 100 outside. So, the effeciency of the AC is compromised by sitting right next to the heater. So, I have noticed the heat loss problem on my 05 Lincoln too. I have noticed that if I set the heat for 90 and hit "auto" the AC will automatically engage. I then must punch AC to "OFF" in order not to compromise the heat with a cold evaporator (it doesn't know it only 23 degrees outside). One other thing you can do is to select the "heat to floor" on manual mode at first and thereby not selecting Auto, which engages the AC. Hope this helps. It's a very poor system on a really nice car. Lastly, even though it's a poor system, keep in mind that "Auto" Climate control works on a thermostat set-up just like in the house. When the Thermostat is satisfied at 72, it will shut off heat output through the vent. What you get is unheated air until the the thermometer drops below a certain degree to signal "start up again in order to get back to 72." So, how far does it have to drop before reactivating? Good question. My suspicion is that the calibration and sensitivity is also sadly lacking. If working at all, it should eventually start putting out heat to get back to 72, but probably you're going to be cold until it finally gets there, so you crank it up to 80-85. If I had known this about this system, I would never have bought my Lioncoln! I prefer one heat/cool knob that goes from blue to red, and one fan knob that goes from low to high--best arrangement even though old school.
  • insbobinsbob Posts: 1
    This is my first time to post. If I do something stupid gently inform me so I will not repeat. The heat stays on. The blend door passenger side opens and closes. it will not open when controls set at blend. It only opens for floor and closes for defrost settings. it generally wants to stick open. I can see the actuator moving on the vacuum pot under dash center and under the glove box when I move the controls. No leaks Fan works but not on all settings. I am here in AZ and I am about to recharge the AC I use R 12 so I do not want the heat to fight with the AC. Got to have AC. Does anyone have an under dash schematic or parts drawing. Or a vacuum line schematic. I will post some pics very nice TC Signature Trip computer, Pillow seat leather no tears, absolutely no rust anywhere the frame paint is still shinny A arms no rust. I get 20-22 MPG at 70 MPH 87 octane
  • This is an 80s TC right?

    I'd buy the actual Ford manual off ebay etc, they're usually available and inexpensive. Also perhaps check LincolnsOnLine for more info.
  • Under drivers dash fuze box Unplug 15a Fuze # 1 turn on key see if clicking goes away Plug Fuze back in if clicking stops run self test If it comes back removed fuze and install a 5/8 shut off valve in the upper heater hose turn it off to have AC on for Heat not great but is a cheap fix. will work on 95 to 97 Lin TC
    The System will work without this fuze is power for the Blend door only the blend door is spring loaded to the full heat pos. at least you wont have to hear that click clack cluck.
  • engine side or upper Heater hose to shut off heat
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