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Honda Civic: Problems & Solutions



  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    You're not by chance in Canada, are you? If you are, Canadian quarters (like all Canadian coins, except for the penny) are magnetic. Unlike American quarters, you can pick up a Canadian one with a magnet. If by some strange chance you're up north, you may be in luck.

  • i have the same problem with my del sol.. so what did the dealership say?
  • well, got my car back yesterday.
    Dealer told me it was coil & igniter. Costed me $450.
    I did some search for the parts price online, at
    Igniter OEM
    In Stock $212.37 178.48
    In Stock $212.37 101.78

    Ignition Coil OEM
    In Stock $93.42 84.65
    Ignition Coil OEM
    In Stock Bosch $93.42 53.25
    Ignition Coil
    In Stock Aftermarket $93.42 57.79
  • I woould like to know how to change the clock on a 2002 Civic I bought mine without a owners manual as well.
  • My 94' civic has strange problem. I can start it just fine in dry and warm weather. Bur I can not start it if it is raining or it was raining last night. Mechanics changed battery, but this did not fix the problem. Last night, I can not started it again. I opened hood and I find there are some sparkles from a black part connected to the left-side of engine when I tried to ignite the car. Technician may not able to see this during the day time.

    Did anyone have the similar problem with mine? What is final solution for the problem. :confuse:
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It cost(ed) you the equivalent of $300 in aftermarket parts and $150 for diagnosis and repair. Sounds reasonable to me.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It needs a minor tuneup. Replace the distributor cap and spark plug wires, and check the plugs while you're in there..
  • juwjuw Posts: 1
    Hi there,

    I bought a new 2005 Civic LX two weeks ago and the transmission failed two days ago. The car would not go above 20 m/h. The dealership replaced the transmission with a re-manufactured one. When I asked why, the service manager said Honda doesn't make new transmission. It only re-manufactures transmission. Is this true? Or was the dealership lying? I am wondering what options I have in such case? I don't want a re-manufactured transmission on a brand new car no matter the dealership provides the same warranty. Can I demand a replacement? Your help is appreciated.

  • aiwaiw Posts: 1
    I have a 92 dx with 220500 on it and have been having the same problem as you for the last two years. With it randomly not starting like when it sits all day or if I turn it off after driving awhile and try to start it right back up. The car will turn over but doesn't catch the spark to ignite. I've taken it in quite a few times and had different things fixed but no one can figure it out. A couple days ago it finally went out. It started fine and I reversed out of my driveway but as I put it in first and started to go, the car died. It still does the almost start thing but now doesn't start ever. The mechanics I have it at now tell me I need to replace the computer which I'm skeptical about but will let you know how it turns out. Please let me know what you find out as well. April
  • I have a 95 Civic EX that idles erratically when cold. When the engine warms up the problem goes away. Someone suggested to change the idle control valve and I did, but the problem is still there. :confuse:
  • I have a 96 Civic CX with 97,000 miles and a manual trans. Sometime when I turn the key to start it, it does nothing. If i slightly depress the clutch it will begin to turn over. Is this a clutch safety switch problem or something else, and is it something I would be able to fix myself and not have to go to a mechanic?
  • I had to PRY my fuel latch open because it would not release in my 2001 Civic- w/ 55,000 miles on it. I was on vacation at the time and needed fuel-
    after I pried the fuel door open I heard a pop and the little plastic latch broke off- after I popped it, the trunk wouldn't latch- I don’t think it is electrical because no fuses control the trunk and fuel door- if it is mechanical would I have to replace the entire fuel door assembly throughout the car?
    And does this happen often on 2001 Honda Civics?
  • After doing some reading here and elsewhere, I'm inclined to think that I may have a main relay problem. Symptoms are as follows: occasionally doesn't want to start right away or dies after releasing the key (am always able to get started after a few tries) (doesn't seem to be temperature related), has died a few times while driving (once on the highway at 60 mph and a couple of times while driving slowly), after stopping, again, am always able to restart after a couple of tries.

    Possibly related or not (and not so much of a concern), there is a split second hesitation when pressing the accelerator whether from a stop or while on the go.

    Initially, I was thinking fuel pump, but maybe the main relay? Any thoughts appreciated!
  • Hi. I have a 2001 Honda Civic with 81,000 miles. This weekend, the car had no problems, then I went out to the store and the engine was revving and wouldn't accelerate unless I slowly eased up and down on the gas. My boyfriend looked to see if something was lose and unplugged the battery to see if it needed a reset and then he tried to drive the car and it wouldn't drive at all. I had it towed to the dealer Sunday morning and they said I need a new transmission. I had bought the extended warranty for 75,000 miles, but not it is expired. I've put a claim into Honda care to see if they will cover the 2850 the dealer said it would cost to fix. Have you heard of Honda paying for this repair in the past? I see a lot of postings that the transmissions fail on Civics around this time, but the owners manual says 110,000 miles the transmissions should be looked at. I thought a Civic would last a lot longer than 4 years before the transmission would fail. Thank you
  • I am also in the Bay Area. Got my service checked yesterday and they mentioned the same problems on my 2000 Honda Civic:

    (1) Left and Right rear trailing arm bushings worn and torn - Quote $582 + $100 for alignment
    (2) Battery failed load test - $110 for battery and installation
    (3) Replace wiper inserts

    I told the Dealer that I will get a second opinion. I looked up some auto mechanics on and better business bureau. I found an independent shop owner that gave me a second opinion and an estimate that was $120 cheaper than the dealer. He also mentioned that it the arm bushings is not an ASAP fix but that it is worn and torn and he even showed me which was nice of him unlike the Dealership. He didn't pressure me or try to scare me and explain the break down of the parts and labor to fix the problem.

    I will try to contact Honda to see if this is a major problem because I don't drive the car on any rough terrain. It is a basic commuter car - Got it in June 2000 brand new and only 51, 675 miles on it. Go figure - so if you have a similar problem maybe we need to log/ complain with Honda and make them fix it!!

    Did you get yours fixed yet? If not - I can give you the contact number and name of the mechanic I found in Santa Clara, CA that was very honest and straight forward with me.
  • Forgot to mention for the battery - I am going to Sears. I hear Die Hard is the best for car battery and they install for free. I contacted Costco and they don't do installations but they do sell the battery in the main store.
  • The second window regulator failed 6 months after warranty expired. Car had 11,000 miles on it. I called Honda and they have agreed to pay for all but $50.00 of the repair. I think the low mileage helped in making their decision. If you think you have a pre-mature failure in a part after warranty give ol' Honda a call.
  • Hi,

    I'm having a problem starting my 1995 Honda Civic sometimes. Here are the symptoms and situation when it won't start:

    The car has power in the ACC and ON key positions (stereo, lights, overhead light all work). When I turn to START position, there is an audible click and the entire electrical system cuts out. Dies. Ceases to have any power whatsoever. If I go back to the ACC or ON, there isn't any power there either. When I jumper-cable to another persons battery, the power immediately comes back on in my car (lights work again, CD spits out, etc.), and I can start it just fine.

    There aren't any problems with it running, and this doesn't happen every time. It has been happening more recently though, which has me worried (used to be once a month, maybe; now maybe a couple times a week).

    I had a mechanic friend of mine check out the battery with a battery tester "thing". He said it had good voltage and current, but now that I think about it he was testing it with the car on and running (i.e. being charged by the alternator). So I don't want to rule out it being a battery problem, but I don't think thats what it is. He said to clean the terminals and that would take care of it. I think the problem is more "car" and less "battery" but I'm not that good with cars.

    Anybody know what is happening and what to do to fix it?

    Thanks for any help

  • The car has power in the ACC and ON key positions (stereo, lights, overhead light all work). When I turn to START position, there is an audible click and the entire electrical system cuts out. Dies. Ceases to have any power whatsoever. If I go back to the ACC or ON, there isn't any power there either. When I jumper-cable to another persons battery, the power immediately comes back on in my car (lights work again, CD spits out, etc.), and I can start it just fine.

    Sounds like a battery problem to me. To be sure, test the battery after it has been sitting overnight.
  • I own 1997 HOnda Civic JDM model. I notice that the fans had not been coming on the car and the temperature guage goes hi in idle but notwhile driiving. If I rev the car while idiling the fans come one for a few seconds then cuts out again.When I really rev it when idle the engine makes a choking sound at the extreme end of the revs, I do not have a rev metere sorry so I estimate it to be at red line.

    Anywv had the fan checked it is fine. My battery conneections came loose for a long while and my main line wire was tarnish and the insulation melted at the end commection to the fuse box in the engine compartment.

    When I remove the main line from the fuse box the mainline from the fuse box the temperature guage needle sits at normal near horizontal and ofcourse lighst go on in the dash. When i put iot back the guage rises a little and remains there.
    I ask thgn what could be the probelm?
  • Where can I get the for my 98' Honda Civic. My dash isnt lighting up and I need this info.
  • d16z6d16z6 Posts: 3
    To me it sounds like a loose wire or connection. Check the tightness of the battery terminals. If you could wiggle the terminals by hand then they're too loose. The current passing through those loose terminals is just enough to turn on the instrument lights, but too weak to turn the starter which requires more juice. After tightening the terminals and you still have the same problem, check the tightness of other wires leading from the batt. to the starter.
  • Startes right up when warmed up also when driving somtimes dies but if you dont push in the clutch is it restarts itself in a second or 2 only dies when driving more than 30 minutes,bumping the starter when cold helps a alot,any help would be greatly appreciated i would hate to spen 120 on a fuel pump if it could be somthing else!
    also just starting doing this and its only 60 degrees out not cold or hot
    thanx for any help
  • mmuruammurua Posts: 4
    I just experience the same problem. On Sun (10/2/05) I was on the expressway and my car began to slow down. I would give it gas and the car would not excellerate. I took the key out of the ignition and waited for about 1/2 hr. I put the key back in the ignition and it did begin to excelerate. So I exited the expressway and the car would run but only for a little bit then it got worse. Since I am out of my warranty, I had the car towed to a family mechanic and he told me it was a sensor, unfortunetly that was not the solution. I have no other choice but to take it to the dealer. I heard there is a service bulletin regarding 01 honda civic transmissions. Not sure if this will help me in getting Honda to cover the charges since my car is only 4 years old and only has 60,000 miles. Click on
  • I am having a problem with my gauge lighting. My headlights, taillights, interior dome lights, turn signal lights all work fine but the instrument(gauge) lights don't work anymore. I checked the fuses and they are fine. Does anyone else know what I could do before I have to take it in? It is a 99 Honda civic ex coupe.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    You have 51,675 miles on this vehicle. Do you have an extended warranty on this vehicle? Why should Honda repair this vehicle under wrranty? Do you have this vehicle serviced on a regular basis by a Honda dealer? The original warranty was for 3 years of 36,000 miles. You are 15,675 miles over the original warranty? Is the Independent Shop using Honda Parts or After Market Parts? There could be a "BIG DIFFERENCE" in the quality of the parts! Maybe you should have invested in an extended warranty on this vehicle! I don't think that you are being fair to Honda!
  • d16z6d16z6 Posts: 3
    From my own experience and my customers, hitting the starter to make it work means the starter needs replacing. Can you please clarify the other situation when you drive the car for 30 min. the car shuts down by itself? or when you turn the engine off the car wont start again? If its the latter, then the problem is the starter.
  • ppeppe Posts: 1
    I have civic 2000, close to 70k miles. Yesterday night, the battery was dead. All the auto was closed at that time, so I bought a battery from walmart, everstart, $30. It worked fine yesterday, but this morning, I started to get problems: engine was dead twice when stopped at traffic light, and also when I pressed the brake, the car for a couple of seconds, which I never had this problem before. Is there anyone had similar problems before? What should I do?
    Thanks a lot.
  • From your response, are you a sales service manager or work for a Honda dealership?

    Don't get me started on buying extended warranty. I bought the Honda for its reliable, reputation and its low maintenance. I hear that I have to be a lawyer to interpret what is covered and what is not covered under extended warranty!

    Yes, I went to the dealership for every major and minor service also did my brake service at the dealership. I never heard of ARM BUSHINGS which is why I raise the red flag. Yes, I did some research and called Honda and they said it is only on the Civic and CRV that have ARM BUSHINGS and not covered under warranty. That the problem will affect by suspension and could wear out my tires. OK, I don't like the answer but I feel at least I got the information I needed before forking over my hard earn money and understanding the problem.

    Anyway, the Independent Shop owner is very honest and reliable, gave me a free estimate with the break down of the parts and labor. Yes, he uses geninue Honda parts. The dealership doesn't even give a part #. He does and I was able to do a Google search on the part # and find the actual cost and description of the part. Found him on and he is a member of the BBB. ASE certified. Going to him for all my car repairs instead of dealerships from now on.

    I am not being unfair to Honda, just want to be an informed consumer and like they say, you pay for dealership prices and for some people they like the comfort and convenience of the dealership but it takes time to find a good honest, decent mechanic that you can trust your car to. My 2 cents worth :)
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